November 2024

Benvenuto Brunello 2024: Celebrating Tuscany’s Iconic Wine PART I – Filippo Magnani

The storied hills of Montalcino welcomed wine enthusiasts and professionals for the 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello, the foundational event among Italian wine previews dedicated to Tuscany’s most iconic red wine. From November 14-18, the medieval Chiostro Sant’Agostino in Montalcino hosted this prestigious gathering, featuring 127 wineries and over 500 labels, marking a return to tradition while embracing innovation in its presentation format.

A Return to Tradition with Modern Flair

This year’s event notably returns to its roots, combining professional technical tastings with walk-around opportunities where producers personally present their wines. The anticipated debut of Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Riserva 2019 took center stage, alongside the Rosso di Montalcino 2023, Moscadello, and Sant’Antimo. The revival of producer-attended tastings marks a significant evolution in the event’s format, creating more intimate opportunities for dialogue between winemakers and enthusiasts.

The Chiostro Sant’Agostino, with its historic architecture and serene atmosphere, provided an ideal setting for exploring these prestigious wines. The walk-around tastings offered visitors the chance to engage directly with producers, learning firsthand about their winemaking philosophies, terroir interpretations, and vintage characteristics.

A Strategic Autumn Preview

The event opened with two days of technical tastings exclusively for national and international press. These sessions featured professional sommelier service, allowing critics and journalists to evaluate the new releases under optimal conditions. The controlled environment and expert service ensured that each wine could be assessed thoroughly and objectively.

The program expanded significantly at the Teatro degli Astrusi with the thought-provoking discussion, “What future for the wine consortia.” This high-level industry forum brought together an unprecedented gathering of Italian wine’s most influential voices, including:

Albiera Antinori (Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia)
Francesco Cambria (Etna Doc)
Sergio Germano (Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani)
Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico)
Christian Marchesini (Valpolicella)

Tasting Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

In general, Brunellos of this year turned out to be soft, fruity with good structure and alcohol content, making them very approachable to drink. This is partly a reflection of the vintage, which started quite dry with no frost in spring. The summer was also dry and quite hot with a great diurnal temperature range (temperature difference between night and day). The season ended with some rain at the beginning of September, which gave a little relief to the grapes.

The Rise of Brunello: A Legacy of Excellence

After more than five decades since achieving DOCG status, Brunello di Montalcino continues to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide. The wine’s modern success story, beginning in the late 19th century, is inextricably linked to visionaries like Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who pioneered the extended oak aging that would become a hallmark of Brunello’s distinctive character.

Today’s Brunello maintains these exacting standards while embracing modern precision in both vineyard and cellar. The DOCG requirements remain among Italy’s most stringent, requiring a minimum of four years aging, including two years in oak and four months in bottle, with Riserva wines demanding an additional year of maturation.

Terroir and Tradition Meet Innovation

The success of Brunello di Montalcino stems from the perfect marriage of the Sangiovese grape with Montalcino’s diverse terroir. The region’s varying elevations (250-600 meters above sea level) and complex soil compositions create a tapestry of microclimates that contribute to the wine’s renowned complexity.

The northern sector’s limestone and shale soils produce wines of particular finesse and aromatic complexity, while the central zone’s clay and marl contribute to wines of substantial structure and depth. The southern area, influenced by volcanic soils, yields wines of remarkable power and intensity. This diversity allows producers to craft wines that reflect their specific location while maintaining the high standards that define Brunello di Montalcino.

Today, over half of Montalcino’s producers are certified organic, demonstrating the region’s commitment to sustainable viticulture while preserving traditional winemaking excellence. This environmental consciousness extends beyond the vineyard, with many producers implementing sustainable practices throughout their operations.

Experiencing Montalcino: A Complete Tuscan Journey

Visitors to Benvenuto Brunello will find themselves in one of Tuscany’s most captivating wine destinations, where centuries of winemaking tradition blend seamlessly with modern hospitality. The medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, perched at 564 meters above sea level, offers a perfect base for exploring both the wines and the rich cultural heritage of the region.

The Historic Heart of Montalcino

The town’s crowning glory, the 14th-century Rocca fortress, stands as a testament to Montalcino’s historical significance. This perfectly preserved stronghold now houses the Enoteca la Fortezza, one of the region’s premier wine destinations. Here, visitors can taste an extensive selection of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, with expert sommeliers offering guidance through the various producers and vintages. The fortress’s ramparts provide breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards, the Val d’Orcia, and Monte Amiata, making it an essential stop for photographers and wine lovers alike.

Gastronomic Treasures

Montalcino’s culinary scene perfectly complements its wines, with restaurants ranging from traditional trattorias to Michelin-starred establishments. Local specialties include:

Hand-rolled pici pasta, often served with robust wild boar ragù or the traditional pepper and cheese sauce called “cacio e pepe”
Locally-produced pecorino cheese, aged in various ways including under walnut leaves or in barriques
Traditional Tuscan soup called ribollita, perfect with Rosso di Montalcino
Seasonal truffle dishes, particularly abundant in autumn
Locally-sourced cinghiale (wild boar) prepared in various ways

The town’s historic center features numerous enotecas and wine bars where visitors can sample wines by the glass, often accompanied by local salumi and cheese. Many establishments offer formal wine tasting flights, allowing guests to compare different producers and vintages in a single sitting.

Year-Round Wine Tourism

While Benvenuto Brunello marks a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year.

Winery Visits

Many of Montalcino’s 127 wineries welcome visitors year-round, though advance reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours including:

Vertical tastings of multiple vintages
Vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs
Barrel tastings in historic cellars
Food and wine pairing experiences
Helicopter tours of the denomination
Harvest experiences during September and October

Seasonal Events

Brunello Crossing (February): A series of competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes of varying difficulty from 10 to 44 kilometers
Jazz & Wine Festival (July): Combining world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings
L’Eroica (October): The famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, with a special route through the Brunello vineyards
Honey Week (September): Celebrating local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino

Natural and Cultural Attractions

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest:

Hiking and biking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging mountain bike routes
The famous cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films
Historic abbeys including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls
Natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo
The artistic treasures of nearby Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia

Practical Information for Visitors

Accommodation

Montalcino offers diverse lodging options:

Luxury wine resorts integrated with working wineries
Historic palace hotels in the town center
Intimate bed & breakfasts in converted farmhouses
Agriturismos offering authentic farm stays
Self-catering apartments in restored village houses

Transportation

The nearest train stations are Buonconvento (10 km) and Monte Amiata-Castiglione d’Orcia (13 km)
Regular bus service connects Montalcino with Siena (40 km)
Car rental is recommended for exploring the region’s wineries
Several companies offer private driver services specialized in wine tours
Electric bike rentals are available in town for environmentally conscious exploration

Best Times to Visit

Spring (April-May): Mild temperatures and wildflowers in bloom
Early Summer (June): Perfect weather for outdoor activities
Autumn (September-November): Harvest season and cultural events
Winter (December-February): Quiet season with crisp days and cozy wine tastings

This year’s Benvenuto Brunello is supported by the SRG10 “Promotion of quality products” intervention of the Complement for Rural Development of Tuscany 2023-2027, co-financed by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), demonstrating the continued investment in promoting this exceptional wine region’s heritage and future.

The 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello was a comprehensive celebration of one of Italy’s most prestigious wines, offering participants an immersive experience in the tradition, innovation, and excellence that define Brunello di Montalcino. Through technical tastings, producer interactions, and educational masterclasses, the event continues to evolve while honoring the timeless appeal of this iconic Tuscan wine.

PART ll – Wine Reviews by Liz Palmer

Wine in Moderation General Assembly 2024

It was a privilege to represent The Federation Internationale des Journalistes et Ecrivains des Vins et Spiritueux (FIJEV) at the Wine in Moderation General Assembly this morning. The meeting, which included the participation of other esteemed members and stakeholders, was highly significant and informative.

This insightful session dove into the 2024 Activities Performance, 2025 Provision Action Plan and Growth, among other agenda items.

Let’s continue to raise our glasses responsibly around the world!

If you are not part of the amazing movement, go online and help share the message for a sustainable wine culture: www.wineinmoderation.eu.

Tourism Makes History as 50+ Countries Sign Climate Action Declaration

Over 50 governments signed a UN declaration to make tourism more climate-friendly, in what is hailed as a major achievement of the climate summit in Azerbaijan.

Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili states:

“For the first time, the Action Agenda of the UN Climate Change Conference of the Parties has included tourism. The First Ministerial Meeting on Enhanced Climate Action in Tourism marks a turning point, when ambition meets action, and vision transforms into commitment. At COP29, the global tourism sector made clear its commitment to positive transformation for a better future for our planet.”

“At COP29 we have achieved today an historic milestone by being included in the UN Climate Change Conference Action Agenda for the first time,” U.N. Executive Director for Tourism Zoritsa Urosevic further states.

The countries that signed the declaration on Enhanced Climate Action on Tourism have pledged to recognize the need to address tourism when drafting climate plans, such as their Nationally Determined Contributions. The next update of NDCs, in which governments describe policies to reduce emissions that cause global warming, are due in February.

The declaration was also accompanied by a number of other initiatives, such as a framework presented by hotel industry body World Sustainable Hospitality Alliance, aimed at measuring and reporting data such as greenhouse gas emissions, water consumption, waste and energy usage across the sector.

“The collated data would help the tourism industry and travellers understand their impact” said CEO Glenn Mandziuk.

“We are an industry that has a vested interest in the protection of each destination,” Mandziuk said on the sidelines of the meeting in Baku. “We have to have a conversation where we can play a bigger role.”

OIV Resolution: “Old Vines” Gain Official Status: What This Means for the Industry

The International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV) has marked a historic moment for the wine world. During the 22nd OIV General Assembly, Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024 was adopted, officially defining and recommending standards for “old grapevines” and “old vineyards” in the vitivinicultural sector. This groundbreaking decision recognizes the essential contributions of global initiatives, including The Old Vine Conference, The Old Vine Project, The Old Vine Registry, and Censimento Vecchie Vigne.

Key Definitions:

Old Grapevines: A vine officially documented to be 35 years or older, including grafted vines where the connection between rootstock and scion remains undisturbed for at least 35 years.
Old Vineyards: Legally delimited vineyard blocks where 85% or more of the vines meet the old vine criteria.

This resolution, the culmination of extended discussions among the OIV Commission Viticulture Experts and consultations with member states, establishes a pivotal framework for vine preservation. Sarah Abbott MW, co-founder of The Old Vine Conference, remarked:

“This is a milestone for the global old vine movement. The EU’s required consideration of OIV recommendations could significantly influence future regulations, particularly in preventing uprooting programs.”

Old Vine Conference 2025: A Global Spotlight

Following this announcement, The Old Vine Conference continues to expand its impact. Next week, it hosts the Old Vine Wine Week (Nov. 18–24), and in 2025, it will bring its prestigious conference to California, further amplifying the importance of heritage vines.

Connect with the Movement:

Website: www.oldvines.org

Instagram: @ouroldvines

Delta’s Revamped Wine Selection Elevates the In-Flight Experience

As the holiday season approaches, Delta Air Lines has announced an enhanced, carefully curated wine program, along with seasonal meals and gourmet snacks crafted in collaboration with award-winning chefs.

Enhanced Wine Program

Delta’s wine selection is now expanding to feature a range of varietals and flavors from across the globe, developed in partnership with Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson. The airline’s commitment to diversity and sustainability in sourcing means each wine reflects the unique identity and craftsmanship of its region, appealing to both casual sippers and wine connoisseurs.

A sampling of this year’s wine program includes:

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Organic Malbec (Argentina): A rich, dark-berry Malbec from a woman-led winery, pairing seamlessly with beef dishes.
Barbanera in Bianco (Italy): A unique white Sangiovese with fruit and citrus notes, ideal for seafood and cheeses.
Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc (South Africa): An aromatic Chenin Blanc that complements spicy and full-flavored dishes.
Hahn Chardonnay (California): An elegant, balanced, vegan-friendly Chardonnay with tropical and oak notes.
Albert Bichot Pouilly-Fuissé (France): A lively and aromatic wine, pairing well with buttery seafood and creamy pastas.

Each wine undergoes a meticulous selection process, highlighting the diverse communities within the wine industry. Delta’s Sky Sommelier program, aimed at training flight attendants, further enhances in-flight service by educating staff on varietals, regional attributes, and food pairings, enriching guests’ travel experience.

“Exceptional in-flight meals create memorable travel experiences, whether 35,000 feet above ground or in new destinations,” notes Kristen Manion Taylor, Delta’s SVP of Inflight Service. “Our dedication to quality, diversity, and sustainability ensures each selection aligns with our guests’ expectations of a high-standard culinary journey.”