Month: July 2025

Despite its fragmented landscapes, diverse soils, and varied climate, the Campania region of southern Italy presents a unified face to the global wine world each year through the Campania Stories event.

This year’s event was held in the Vesuvius area from May 18–21 and featured over 90 producers from across Campania. It offered an exceptional opportunity for wine journalists and professionals to discover and taste the wines of this distinctive region. Each year, Campania Stories takes place in a different location; this year, it was hosted at the foot of the active Mount Vesuvius. The event was organized by Miriade & Partners, a local communications agency. The opening ceremony took place at Palazzo Mediceo in Ottaviano, a historic villa that offers panoramic views of the surrounding volcanic landscape.

This setting was ideal for exploring wines from the inland areas of Naples province, where vines grow in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. These vineyards, nestled beneath the 1,200-meter-high volcano, benefit from its protection against sea breezes and harsh weather.

Campania’s Wine Production: An Overview
Campania is Italy’s 8th largest wine-producing region, contributing around 4% of the country’s total wine output, which equates to approximately 1.7 million hectoliters per year. While red wines dominate production, there is also a significant volume of white wines, particularly from the Sannio area. Campania’s wines fall under 4 DOCG and 15 DOC appellations, including Vesuvio DOC.

The Historic Vesuvius Wine Region
The Vesuvius area is one of Campania’s oldest wine regions, with viticulture dating back to the 5th century BC. The Greeks and Romans were instrumental in developing the area’s wine culture, introducing new grape varieties and utilizing the volcanic soils’ richness.

Today, viticulture in this zone is divided between two main designations: IGP Monte Somma and Vesuvio DOP. Monte Somma refers to the ancient volcanic rim that partially collapsed after the 79 AD eruption. While Vesuvio wines are more widely recognized, Monte Somma displays unique characteristics, with vineyards reaching elevations of up to 700 meters above sea level. These north-facing slopes benefit from cooling altitudes and descending air currents.

The Vesuvio DOP area is heavily influenced by its microclimate, sea breezes from the Gulf of Naples, and protection from the Lattari Mountains and the Apennines. These features shield the vines from severe frost, while the volcanic activity continues to enrich the soils with potassium and pyroclastic materials.

Monte Somma: A Pristine Terroir
Protected from major lava flows, Monte Somma retains its pristine environment, including dense forests and fruit trees such as the local crisommola apricot. Wines from this area—designated under Monte Somma IGP, are typically austere in youth but exhibit significant aging potential thanks to wide diurnal temperature variation and complex terroir influences.

The Vesuvio DOP appellation, by contrast, faces south and is a major tourist attraction. Its coastal exposure ensures vineyards receive ample sunlight and maritime influence, producing riper, fuller-bodied wines. The entire viticultural area lies within the Vesuvius National Park, a designated biodiversity heritage site.

Ancient Grape Varieties of Vesuvius
The area is home to several ancient grape varieties, including Caprettone (white) and Piedirosso (red). Some of these vines remain ungrafted, thanks to volcanic soil’s natural resistance to phylloxera, offering a treasure trove of genetic heritage. Growers maintain these vines through traditional propagation methods such as layering, preserving centuries-old lineages.

One rare and notable variety is Catalanesca, grown exclusively in the Monte Somma IGT zone. This grape is believed to have originated in Catalonia, Spain, and was introduced to the area in the 15th century by Lucrezia d’Alagno, the lover of King Alfonso I of Aragon. Since then, Catalanesca has adapted so thoroughly to the local terroir that it is now considered native. Interestingly, the grape’s physical characteristics are berry size and cluster shape, change significantly when grown outside Vesuvius.

Originally classified as a table grape, Catalanesca was not used for winemaking until the 1990s due to its large berries, thick skins, and susceptibility to oxidation. However, in 2011, it was officially included in the Monte Somma IGT appellation. Wines made from Catalanesca are semi-aromatic, with floral and saline notes, crisp acidity, and a pleasantly tannic mouthfeel. They typically reach their peak 2–3 years post-harvest. Several samples tasted during Campania Stories stood out for their quality and typicity; detailed tasting notes to follow.

Filippo Magnani