Champagne reviews Archives

Spring Has Sprung…..Pol Roger Releases Its 2008 Vintage Rosé Champagne

Pol Roger prefers to release its rosé champagnes only in vintage years.

Maturation:

Produced in limited quantities the Rosé Vintage 2008 has been aged for 6.5 years in cellars before being disgorged and released onto the market.

Grape Varieties:

The Brut Rose Vintage is produced from a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay drawn from some 20 Premier and Grand Crus on the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs.

In order to obtain its delicate colour and subtle nose 15% Pinot Noir, from selected vineyards in Bouzy, Ambonnay and Cumieres, is vinified “en rouge” and added to the blend prior to the second fermentation.

Dosage – 10.5g/l

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:

An intense pink peppercorn colour with a fine stream of persistent bubbles. The nose has aromas of red fruits and summer berries. On the palate the first impression is freshness with notes of fragrant wild strawberry, this develops into creamy ripeness with a hint of vanilla.

Allow the wine to blossom in your glass, and you can witness a further layer of citrus aromas with notes of grapefruit.
This Rosé Champagne has a great personality.

Food Pairings:

Brut Rosé 2008 an ideal choice to accompany fish such as grilled salmon and sushi. It also marries with fruit tarts and other fruit desserts – try pairing with a forced Rhubarb fool, the sharpness of the fruit complementing the elegant structure of the wine.

The Official Champagne Grand Tasting Returns to Chicago

The Champagne region’s annual official tasting in the United States was held at the The Ivy Room, Chicago on February 29, 2016. US Trade and media attendees had the opportunity to taste more than 100 champagnes from 35 growers and houses.

The event celebrates Champagne: the sparkling wine produced in the French region of the same name. Only after strict appellation regulations are followed – from harvesting specific plots by hand to minimum time in the caves – can a wine be labeled Champagne. Organized by the Comité Champagne, which represents all the grape growers and houses of Champagne, the tasting gives media, trade and the wine industry a special opportunity to taste and increase their knowledge of a wide variety of wines from the region available on the U.S. market.

“The region is committed to quality, and we are proud to be able to pour over 100 wines from Champagne at this event, providing media and trade a special window into the wines produced by the growers and houses of Champagne.” said Sam Heitner, director of the Champagne Bureau, USA, the official representative of the Comité Champagne in the United States.

Growers and Houses in attendance were:

1. A. Bergère (NM)
2. Alfred Gratien (NM)
3. Ayala (NM)
4. Beaumont des Crayères (CM)
5. Besserat de Bellefon (NM)
6. Billecart-Salmon (NM)
7. Bollinger (NM)
8. Bruno Paillard (NM)
9. Charles de Cazanove (NM)
10. Charles Heidsieck (NM)
11. Charles Mignon (NM)
12. Collet (CM)
13. De Venoge (NM)
14. Delamotte (NM)
15. Devaux (CM)
16. Drappier (NM)
17. Duval-Leroy (NM)
18. Gosset (NM)
19. Henri Giraud (NM)
20. Henriot (NM)
21. J. de Telmont (NM)
22. Joseph Perrier (NM)
23. Laurent-Perrier (NM)
24. Louis de Sacy (NM)
25. Louis Roederer (NM)
26. Mandois (NM)
27. Michel Gonet (RM)
28. Nicolas Feuillatte (CM)
29. Pannier (CM)
30. Paul Goerg (NM)
31. Pierre Legras (NM)
32. Piper-Heidsieck (NM)
33. Ployez-Jacquemart (NM)
34. Pol Roger (NM)
35. Pommery (NM)

Champagne Bureau USA Lunch and Update – NoMI Kitchen, Chicago [Part 2 Media Lunch]

As I mentioned in Part l, I attended one of those lunches that rarely come around — not only was the food and Champagne selection extraordinary, in attendance was Thibaut Le Mailloux, Communications Director for Comité Champagne (the trade association that represents all the grape growers and houses of Champagne, France) and Sam Heitner, the Director of the Champagne Bureau, USA (which is the U.S. representative for the Comité Champagne). At this lunch Thibaut Le Mailloux and Sam Heitner provided US media and myself Champagne Region Updates – see Part 1 [The Update].

The media lunch was held at NoMI Kitchen, Chicago – Monday, February 29,2016

Why It’s A Hot Spot: Chic ambiance, relaxed open kitchen and stunning views of Michigan Avenue

Must-Order: Sushi

Insider Tip: Try and get a window table especially one that overlooks the Water Tower, and NoMI partnered with Green City Market and other local purveyors to source it’s menu’s ingredients

Executive Chef : Satoru Takeuchi
Here is an outline of the lunch menu, pairing specific champagnes to each course.

Through my travels and experiences, I found Champagne to be one of the most versatile wines for food, period. Here is a champagne and food pairing at it’s best!

FIRST
TUNA NICOISE

Seared tuna, quail egg, piquillo pepper
blood orange & lemon dressing
*Pierre Peters, Cuvee de Reserve Brut

SECOND
CHICKEN SUPREME
Pan-seared, buttermilk, tarragon, portobello risettis
natural chicken jus
*Perrier-Jouet, Grand Brut

THIRD
MEYER LEMON POSSET
Rosemary smoked candied pecans, braised huckleberries
vanilla sponge cake, champagne foam
*BILLECART-Salmon, Brut Rose

*Tasting Notes

Pierre Peters, Cuvee de Reserve Brut
This is beautifully balanced that’s crisp and laced with taut apple and citrus flavors; It has a rich texture, intense fruit with tight minerality.
91 points

Perrier-Jouet, Grand Brut
It shows lovely aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, spice and yeast; shows some complexity, is crisp and balanced with fine, persistent mouthfeel and lingering flavors of fresh apples and lemons.
90 Points

BILLECART-Salmon, Brut Rose
Fresh, elegant and focused with a fine bead, light salmon color, creamy texture, and lingering finish.
91 Points

Champagne Bureau USA Lunch and Update – NoMI Kitchen, Chicago Part 1 [The Update]

On February 29th, 2016 I attended one of those lunches that rarely come around — not only was the food and Champagne selection extraordinary, in attendance was Thibaut Le Mailloux, Communications Director for Comité Champagne (the trade association that represents all the grape growers and houses of Champagne, France) and Sam Heitner, the Director of the Champagne Bureau, USA (which is the U.S. representative for the Comité Champagne).

“Champagne is 90 miles northeast of Paris; this wine region is integral to our unique product. That is why we say that ‘Champagne only comes from Champagne’ and why virtually every country in the world reserves the Champagne name exclusively for these wines,” said Thibaut Le Mailloux in his opening speech. “There are now over 100 other countries including Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, India, Mexico, South Africa and the European Union in standing for truth-in-labeling and ensuring their consumers are confident that wines labeled Champagne come from Champagne, France.” Says Le Mailloux.

Champagne Region Updates

US and Global Exports
Sam Heitner advises the US media in attendance that “in 2015, Champagne shipped more than 312 million bottles worldwide, which was an increase of 1.7 percent compared to 2014.” Also, “in 2014 more than 19.2 million bottles were shipped to the United States, making it the second largest export market behind the United Kingdom.”

Champagne Education
The Comité Champagne leads a comprehensive education, promotion and protection campaign worldwide. As part of this effort, they recently launched several new initiatives to encourage people to learn more about Champagne wine and the region. First, the Comité developed Champagne Campus, an educational website. Second, the Comité created a virtual reality video), which takes users on a vivid 360° tour around the vineyards, villages and caves that make the region so unique.

Champagne Campus
To sum it up — here you can discover the wonderful world of champagne, including: the region, vines, winemaking process, AOC and tasting. It’s a fun website and app where you can learn and also test your champagne knowledge.

The website and app is also available on the Apple Store and Google Play
www.champagnecampus.com

360 Degrees
This is a 3D film which was explained by both Sam Heitner and Thibaut Le Mailloux – they directed us to use special goggles so we could get the full immersive experience. During this seven minute film, we saw 360 degrees of vineyards, cellars and famous Avenue de Champagne. I experimented by moving the device left and right, and up and down – this totally changed the view and perception. I have travelled to the region many times and I was happy to see that this device showed the landscape from every possible angle.

Le Mailloux explained that “nine cameras mounted by gopros on drones were used, to create this 360-degree experience.”

As well as Youtube, the film can be downloaded as an app at the Apple Store, Google Play and Android devices.

You can also view the video on The Champagne Bureau Facebook page at www.facebook.com/champagnebureau/videos

Watch for [Part 2 Media Lunch].

WHAT MAKES VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE SO SPECIAL?

Liz Palmer, and Delphine Veissiere PhD

The Champagne region, which is an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) is based on two key characteristics: assuring place of origin of each product and its method of production. It’s not the largest wine-growing region, but it is the most famous. The region is divided into four main growing areas; Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte de Blancs together with Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar (referred to as the Aube). It is important to note that – it is illegal to officially label any product Champagne unless it comes from the Champagne region of France and is produced under the rules of the appellation.

Champagne has been brilliantly marketed the past few decades, and has succeeded in retaining a cache although there are many serious sparkling wine alternatives on the market.

But, why is it so expensive?

A good answer, could be partly because the process is very long and complex and requires many steps along the way, so these drive up the price.

And what about vintage champagne?

Theoretically, vintage Champagnes are made only in particularly good years . This scarcity and quality are the key determinants for investment opportunity.

Vintage champagne is a matter of rarity and style

Vintage Champagne, also known as millésimé, is the unique expression of a single year. There is no regional announcement or vintage decree – the winemaker or Chef de Cave will only produce vintage Champagne in years when the quality is exceptional. These wines are made with the best grapes from superior vineyards.

Also in Champagne the word “vintage” takes on a new meaning – about 90% of the sparkling wine produced in the region is blended into non-vintage Champagnes. These wines are blends of wines from a number of years, or vintages. Non-vintage Champagne often a representation of the house style, while vintage Champagne is a reflection of the year. What gives a vintage Champagne that “special character”? The weather.

“A vintage Champagne is a joint venture between the winemaker and the climate,” says Olivier Krug.

The Champagne region is located in a key climatic area influenced by oceanic and continental weather. Harsh weather conditions makes the winegrower’s métier quite difficult.

Champagne aficionados are ecstatic these days due to a recent shift of good to great vintages commencing with the 2002s. The character of a vintage Champagne is a reflection of that year’s weather. Here is a précis of 14 vintages from 2000-2014 and where you will find some vintages more exceptional than others.

2015 — Too early.
2014 — Too early.
*2013 — Difficult flowering period; Chardonnay badly affected by millerandage; a smaller crop with high quality.
*2012 — Deemed one of the best vintages the Champagne region has experienced. “The quality and the intensity are definitely there to make an outstanding vintage” states Dom Perignon chef de cave Richard Geoffroy. The base wines show beautiful richness with perfect acid levels; yields were very low.
2011 — An erratic year with problematic harvest.
2010 -This will be a variable year depending on the producer, not many vintages declared; some producers produced excellent fruit driven Champagne.
2009 — A very difficult vintage; high sugar levels with moderate acidity. I believe they will be more fresher than the 2003s; better suited for early drinking and not long-term cellaring. I suspect that most of 2009 wine will be destined for non-vintage bottlings; a few vintage Champagnes were produced.
2008 — Some good vintages produced, watch out for some classically styled, acidic Champagnes.
2007 — witnessed a cold, rainy summer, with a huge crop (especially Chardonnay) that was brought in earlier than predicted, near the end of August; mostly diluted fruit and high acidity, a large proportion will be reserved for non-vintage Champagnes
2006 — Supple and expressive wines; immediate drinking.
2005 — Not many great vintages produced – acidity was on the low end; 2005 Cristal is a good reflection.
2004 — Structured and well balanced wines, 2004 DP is an excellent reflection.
2003 — Very high heat across Europe produced wines with excellent fruit, good for immediate drinking not much potential for long-term cellaring.
*2002 — This vintage was dry and warm– an exceptional vintage; potentially a classic.
2001 — The worst vintage on record.
2000 — Good quality for blending; not many vintages produced.
*considered exceptional years

Vintage champagne is an investment opportunity

Champagne is relatively affordable when compared to similarly evaluated Bordeaux or Burgundy. Champagne offers first time investors a lower entry point and seasoned investors value for money when diversifying their portfolios. When Champagne is released it is ready for drinking, and rarely stored for long periods, vintages then become scarce and prices rise.

Sebastian Woolf of Woolf Sung reports that vintage Champagne currently presents the most value for money in the fine wine investment market, with a further 10% growth expected over the next 12 months. He states: “I set up Woolf Sung in 2012 to bring fine wine investment to the younger generations by focusing on under-the-radar brands and vintages. Champagne epitomizes this ambition and as investors across the board are seeking alternatives to Bordeaux, these brands and vintages are gaining traction in the market as investors and drinkers are looking for value.”

Woolf Sung is currently focusing on sourcing and procuring these old, scarce vintages which present a 3-5 year investment; these bottles are being drunk now therefore scarcity and, in turn, prices are ever increasing.

“The world’s top Champagne vintages, 1988, 1996, and 2002 have consistently shown great appreciation and continued steady growth over the years. Over a two year period to August 2014, these vintages have collectively risen 10.2%. With the investment market looking for alternatives to Bordeaux, vintage Champagne offers volume production, worldwide distribution and prestige that Burgundy and Italy struggle to compete with. According to Liv-Ex, between 2011 and 2013 the Champagne index increased 11.9% and its share of trade increase from 1% to 2.3%.” says Sebastian Woolf.

– Our Five Top Vintage Champagne Picks – Continue reading “WHAT MAKES VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE SO SPECIAL?”