Exploring Irpinia: Italy’s Hidden Gem of Natural Beauty and Winemaking Excellence

Campania is the region of southern Italy that includes the magnificent active volcano Vesuvius, stunning seaside towns and villages like those of the sunny Amalfi coast, the unique city of Naples, fascinating ancient sites such as Pompeii and the crystal-clear blue waters of Capri and other islands. There is much more to this region – Inland Campania shows a different character with striking landscapes encompassing wooded hillsides, winding rivers, majestic mountains and cool breezes that contrast greatly with the warm coastal areas – this area is known as Irpinia.

WHERE IS IRPINIA?

Irpinia, from the local word hurpos, wolves, covers the entire province of Avellino, 60 km east of Naples. The origin of the word Irpinia says a lot about the area and its people. The people of Irpinia are not fishermen like those you find in Positano and other villages on the coast, but shepherds. They are strong, stubborn people, tied firmly to their roots and very different from the open personalities of those living by the sea.

The lands of Irpinia are highly varied and cover approximately 3,000 sq.km with the main city, Avellino, in the southwest. Nearby are the tuff quarries of Tufo, hill towns such as Montefalcione and Rocca San Felice, and the plateau of Ariano Irpino is further north. Irpinia shares borders with the Puglia region (which forms the heel of Italy’s boot) to the northeast, the province of Benevento to the northwest, Naples to the west and Salerno to the south, with the Vulture area, well-known for its Aglianico, to the east.

The mountains reach an altitude of 1800m asl, shelter the area from warm winds coming from the sea, creating a cool climate with steep day-night temperature swings that are ideal for viticulture.

WINE AREAS

Irpinia is the green heart of Campania, but above all it is a wine region, with an impressive concentration of excellence. In fact, three of the Campania region’s four DOCG wines are produced here, including the oldest DOCG of southern Italy: Taurasi which gained the denomination in 1993. Irpinia’s other two DOCGs are the whites Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, both certified in 2003.

Another denomination, Irpinia DOC, which has been in place since 2005, covers an area including 118 towns, while the Campi Taurasini DOC area includes only 24 towns, 17 of which are also included in the red Taurasi DOCG area.

GRAPES & WINES

The Aglianico grape is Irpinia’s flagship red, although other red varieties are grown here too, such as Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. Aglianico is the main grape of the DOCG Taurasi denomination with a minimum 85% of the blend (although most of producers make 100% Aglianico wines) and a minimum of 12 months aging in wooden vessels.

Aglianico is a difficult grape to grow: it’s late ripening, its thin skin is prone to mildew and it can be challenging to harvest this grape with several vineyard passages required in order to pick healthy grapes. It’s a difficult variety to manage in terms of winemaking too: when young, it tends to be tannic, acidic, rather harsh and sometimes rustic. Aglianico is certainly one for patient drinkers and lovers of the variety who need to give the wine the time it deserves. It’s very much a food wine and pairs perfectly with the local food which has many pork-based dishes, tasty cheeses, mushrooms and hearty soups.

Fiano is a very versatile grape, one of Italy’s great whites with an excellent reputation among producers and critics, for its elegance, age-ability and the concentration of terpenes that make it a semi-aromatic variety. The Fiano di Avellino DOCG production zone covers 26 municipal areas in a wide area with a range of different soils, aspects and altitudes making for very different styles of wine.

Fiano is a grape that adapts easily to different conditions and recently it has even been planted outside Italy in areas including California and Australia.

Greco is the alter ego of Fiano. The two white grapes share some similarities, including a long history – both are very ancient grapes and both are the main varieties for the two DOCG whites of Irpinia, respectively Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino.

Greco however has completely different characteristics from Fiano. It’s grown in the territories of only eight towns in volcanic, yellow tuff soils. The wines are intensely coloured wine with great minerality, saltiness and complex depth.

IRPINIA – QUICK FACTS

Irpinia produces about 28% of the Campania region’s wines.

In 2005 Robert Parker said, “Aglianico is next big thing”.

There are several biotypes of Aglianico, including one for Taurasi and also Aglianico del Taburno and Aglianico del Vulture.

Aglianico, Fiano and Greco are among Italy’s most ancient grape varieties, brought over from Greece thousands of years ago.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe in Irpinia was ranked 14th overall in the 2024 World’s Best Vineyards awards – the best in Italy.

A destination for wine connoisseurs and oenophiles to discover the secrets behind some of southern Italy’s finest micro-wineries.

The Irpinia wine region has developed rapidly in recent years, with the two major players, Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio, sharing the market with small niche wineries, some of them specializing in single-vineyard wines.

Although Irpinia is just an hour’s drive from Naples, it still plays second fiddle to the better-known destinations of the Campania region such as the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, Vesuvius, and so on, while at the same time having great potential flows of tourism.

For this reason, many family-run wineries, each with their own distinctive characters, have started to offer authentic wine experiences.

Thanks to this mix of visionary producers, independent family-run wineries, contemporary or traditional estates and revolutionary winemakers, Irpinia has become one of Italy’s most fascinating wine areas, particularly for its whites.

The local tourism scene is developing steadily through joint ventures and new openings of hotels and resorts. Wine therapy and wine spas are another aspect that’s growing in this hilly area, and both private investments and European funding are increasingly oriented towards boosting tourism in the area.

Along with the increasing success of Irpinia’s wine production, this patch of land has developed a genuine and positive attitude towards hospitality and there are numerous services on offer in terms of hospitality and incoming experiences. Visitors can choose to stay at a cosy B&B, a charming countryside farmhouse or a luxury resort and vineyard tours, lunch in the barrel room or meeting with the winemakers are among the most popular wine experiences offered by wineries.

Irpinia is a perfect destination both for visitors who want to immerse themselves in the authentic local culture and for those looking for an adventurous off-the-beaten-track experience.

WINERIES per la sezione hospitality

  • Feudi di San Gregorio
  • Mastroberardino
  • Tenuta Cavalier Pepe
  • Cantine di Marzo
  • Fonzone
  • Tenuta del Meriggio
  • Villa Raiano
  • Tenuta Scuotto
  • Di Meo===============
    Filippo Magnani,
    Wine Tourism Expert

Italy’s Wine Exports Soar: September 2024 Analysis

Italy, the world’s wine epicentre, achieved remarkable milestones in September 2024, solidifying its position as a leader in global wine export by volume. Italian wines, renowned for their diversity, quality, and rich heritage, have captivated audiences worldwide. Below, I delve into the top ten markets driving the success of Italian wine exports, offering insights into evolving consumer preferences and cultural affinities.

Top 10 Export Markets for Italian Wine

  1. United States (24%)
    The U.S. retains its spot as the largest consumer of Italian wines, reflecting the American love for iconic varietals like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo. This quarter’s exports showcase Italy’s deep-rooted influence on American wine culture, particularly among millennials and Gen X.
  2. United Kingdom (20%)
    The U.K. remains a steadfast partner, with British consumers eagerly reaching for Italian reds and sparkling wines. Despite global economic shifts, Italy’s premium selections charm the British palate.
  3. Germany (6%)
    With its sophisticated and detail-oriented wine culture, Germany steadily increases its consumption of Italian wine, notably organic and sustainable vintages, which appeal to eco-conscious drinkers.
  4. Russia (5%)
    While geopolitical complexities persist, Italy’s wines maintain a foothold in Russia, where European vintages are steadily gaining traction among urban elites.
  5. France (5%)
    In an intriguing market dynamic, Italy’s wine exports to France underscore cross-border appreciation. French consumers favour distinctive Italian wines like Amarone and Nero d’Avola, offering a complement to their domestic preferences.
  6. Canada (5%)
    Canada, with its multicultural demographic, remains a valuable partner for Italy’s export growth. The popularity of Italian wine among Canadians reflects shared values of quality and craftsmanship.
  7. Belgium (4%)
    Belgium’s rich culinary heritage and established wine traditions make it a loyal market for Italian vintages. Prosecco, in particular, enjoys increasing favour in celebratory settings.
  8. Switzerland (3%)
    Swiss buyers lean towards high-end Italian wines, often pairing them with fine dining experiences. This market highlights a preference for both tradition and exclusivity.
  9. Latvia (3%)
    Latvia represents a rising star in Italy’s export landscape. Growing interest in medium-priced wines signals a burgeoning sophistication in wine culture.
  10. Austria (2%)
    Rounding out the top ten, Austria’s wine market reflects its preference for regional balance and traditional winemaking, aligning perfectly with Italy’s offerings.

The Road Ahead

Italy’s wine sector continues to explore untapped markets while deepening its ties with existing ones. Exporters are leveraging storytelling, wine tourism, and sustainability credentials to maintain Italy’s edge in a competitive global market.

Source: Italy’s National Institute of Statistics (Istat)

Mombarone [Piedmont] Vineyards added to Historical Register

The Italian Ministry of Agriculture has officially recognized the historical and scenic value of the vineyards in the Canavese region, located on the left bank of the Dora Baltea River. These terraced vineyards, cultivated since medieval times, have been added to the National Register of Historical Rural Landscapes, a distinction that highlights their cultural and environmental significance. The recent announcement was welcomed by Bruno Mecca Cici, President of Coldiretti Torino, who described it as a crucial step in protecting and revitalizing the region’s heroic viticulture.

The register includes rural areas that have preserved their unique cultural and agricultural characteristics over centuries, becoming integral to the local landscape and heritage. In Canavese, the terraced vineyards exemplify human adaptation to the Alpine environment. The dry-stone walls supporting these terraces create a favourable microclimate for growing vines under challenging conditions by reflecting heat and stabilizing the terrain.

The winemaking tradition in Canavese is deeply rooted in local history. The terraces, locally known as tupiun, are supported by stone pillars called pilun, a centuries-old farming technique passed down through generations.

The Ministry’s recognition underscores the need to protect these vineyards not only for their cultural value but also for their role in preventing soil erosion and landslides on the region’s steep slopes. Maintaining these vineyards is considered heroic viticulture under Italian law, given the extreme conditions in which local farmers work. Despite their importance, these viticulturists face numerous challenges in sustaining their activity.

Mecca Cici stressed that inclusion in the National Register must be accompanied by concrete policies to support mountain viticulture. Proposed measures include protecting vineyards from wild animals, building rural roads and transport systems to improve access to terraced plots, and providing incentives to acquire abandoned land. There is also a push to develop tourism and infrastructure that could leverage the unique Canavese landscape for economic benefit.

Tourism promotion is seen as an opportunity to revive the local economy. Coldiretti Torino has advocated integrating the vineyards into existing tourist routes, such as the Via Francigena, and showcasing local features like the Balmetti of Borgofranco di Ivrea—natural cellars carved into rock used to store wine and other products.

Canavese wines are central to this revitalization effort. The region is home to renowned appellations such as Nebbiolo di Carema and Erbaluce di Caluso, wines that experts believe hold great potential in the face of climate change. Additionally, olive cultivation is being promoted on the same slopes, a practice that seemed improbable in this mountainous area until recently but is now yielding promising results.

Alto Adige Wines Announces a New UGA Classification

Nestled in Italy’s northeastern corner, Alto Adige, one of the country’s most compact yet pioneering viticultural areas, is advancing its esteemed Alto Adige DOC designation with a significant new addition. The Consorzio Alto Adige Wines has recently announced that, starting with the 2024 vintage, 86 well-defined and meticulously documented vineyard areas have been granted special legal status as Additional Geographical Units (in Italian “Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive” or UGA).

“Our goal is to capture the unique character of each vineyard in every bottle,” said Martin Foradori, Vice President of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines and owner of the J. Hofstätter estate. “Terroir” should not be just a marketing term—it should be something you can truly taste in each glass of wine.”

Defined by rigorous criteria, each UGA reflects an ideal alignment of soil type, microclimate, altitude, slope inclination, sun exposure, rainfall, and more. While forward-thinking was essential to this process, tradition also played a significant role, as many of the selected vineyard sites hold historical importance. A land register dating back to the mid-18th century provided access to valuable historic land names, testifying the region’s rich viticultural heritage. Additionally, within each UGA, permissible yields have been further reduced by 25% compared to DOC regulations, ensuring optimal grape quality and exceptional wines.

The ideal grape varieties for vineyards within each UGA have also been carefully defined. Eduard Bernhart, Director of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines, explained: “Wines that qualify for a UGA designation must be made exclusively with grapes from that specific site. Depending on the vineyard’s location within a UGA, up to five varieties may be permitted, while some UGAs restrict production to just one or two varieties.”

As of the 2024 vintage, the geographical designation—such as Gries, Mazon, or Eppan Berg, to name just a few of the 86 recognized UGAs—may be listed on wine labels alongside “Alto Adige DOC.”

Producers wishing to use a UGA name on their label are required to include a pictograph specially designed by the Consorzio. Alto Adige Wines This will allow consumers to clearly recognize these special wines, as the pictograph must appear on both the front and back labels.

“Much like other renowned wine regions, we believe this initiative will set new benchmarks for exceptional and distinctive Alto Adige wines,” commented Andreas Kofler, President of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines and of Cantina Kurtatsch. “These UGAs establish Alto Adige as a leader in the highest quality, terroir-driven winemaking.”

The creation of UGAs marks the culmination of years of research, collaboration, and vision led by the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines. Contributions from agronomists, enologists, growers, and producers helped shape the new classification, blending innovation with a deep respect for tradition.

Benvenuto Brunello 2024: Celebrating Tuscany’s Iconic Wine PART I – Filippo Magnani

The storied hills of Montalcino welcomed wine enthusiasts and professionals for the 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello, the foundational event among Italian wine previews dedicated to Tuscany’s most iconic red wine. From November 14-18, the medieval Chiostro Sant’Agostino in Montalcino hosted this prestigious gathering, featuring 127 wineries and over 500 labels, marking a return to tradition while embracing innovation in its presentation format.

A Return to Tradition with Modern Flair

This year’s event notably returns to its roots, combining professional technical tastings with walk-around opportunities where producers personally present their wines. The anticipated debut of Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Riserva 2019 took center stage, alongside the Rosso di Montalcino 2023, Moscadello, and Sant’Antimo. The revival of producer-attended tastings marks a significant evolution in the event’s format, creating more intimate opportunities for dialogue between winemakers and enthusiasts.

The Chiostro Sant’Agostino, with its historic architecture and serene atmosphere, provided an ideal setting for exploring these prestigious wines. The walk-around tastings offered visitors the chance to engage directly with producers, learning firsthand about their winemaking philosophies, terroir interpretations, and vintage characteristics.

A Strategic Autumn Preview

The event opened with two days of technical tastings exclusively for national and international press. These sessions featured professional sommelier service, allowing critics and journalists to evaluate the new releases under optimal conditions. The controlled environment and expert service ensured that each wine could be assessed thoroughly and objectively.

The program expanded significantly at the Teatro degli Astrusi with the thought-provoking discussion, “What future for the wine consortia.” This high-level industry forum brought together an unprecedented gathering of Italian wine’s most influential voices, including:

  • Albiera Antinori (Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia)
  • Francesco Cambria (Etna Doc)
  • Sergio Germano (Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani)
  • Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico)
  • Christian Marchesini (Valpolicella)

Tasting Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

In general, Brunellos of this year turned out to be soft, fruity with good structure and alcohol content, making them very approachable to drink. This is partly a reflection of the vintage, which started quite dry with no frost in spring. The summer was also dry and quite hot with a great diurnal temperature range (temperature difference between night and day). The season ended with some rain at the beginning of September, which gave a little relief to the grapes.

The Rise of Brunello: A Legacy of Excellence

After more than five decades since achieving DOCG status, Brunello di Montalcino continues to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide. The wine’s modern success story, beginning in the late 19th century, is inextricably linked to visionaries like Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who pioneered the extended oak aging that would become a hallmark of Brunello’s distinctive character.

Today’s Brunello maintains these exacting standards while embracing modern precision in both vineyard and cellar. The DOCG requirements remain among Italy’s most stringent, requiring a minimum of four years aging, including two years in oak and four months in bottle, with Riserva wines demanding an additional year of maturation.

Terroir and Tradition Meet Innovation

The success of Brunello di Montalcino stems from the perfect marriage of the Sangiovese grape with Montalcino’s diverse terroir. The region’s varying elevations (250-600 meters above sea level) and complex soil compositions create a tapestry of microclimates that contribute to the wine’s renowned complexity.

The northern sector’s limestone and shale soils produce wines of particular finesse and aromatic complexity, while the central zone’s clay and marl contribute to wines of substantial structure and depth. The southern area, influenced by volcanic soils, yields wines of remarkable power and intensity. This diversity allows producers to craft wines that reflect their specific location while maintaining the high standards that define Brunello di Montalcino.

Today, over half of Montalcino’s producers are certified organic, demonstrating the region’s commitment to sustainable viticulture while preserving traditional winemaking excellence. This environmental consciousness extends beyond the vineyard, with many producers implementing sustainable practices throughout their operations.

Experiencing Montalcino: A Complete Tuscan Journey

Visitors to Benvenuto Brunello will find themselves in one of Tuscany’s most captivating wine destinations, where centuries of winemaking tradition blend seamlessly with modern hospitality. The medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, perched at 564 meters above sea level, offers a perfect base for exploring both the wines and the rich cultural heritage of the region.

The Historic Heart of Montalcino

The town’s crowning glory, the 14th-century Rocca fortress, stands as a testament to Montalcino’s historical significance. This perfectly preserved stronghold now houses the Enoteca la Fortezza, one of the region’s premier wine destinations. Here, visitors can taste an extensive selection of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, with expert sommeliers offering guidance through the various producers and vintages. The fortress’s ramparts provide breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards, the Val d’Orcia, and Monte Amiata, making it an essential stop for photographers and wine lovers alike.

Gastronomic Treasures

Montalcino’s culinary scene perfectly complements its wines, with restaurants ranging from traditional trattorias to Michelin-starred establishments. Local specialties include:

  • Hand-rolled pici pasta, often served with robust wild boar ragù or the traditional pepper and cheese sauce called “cacio e pepe”
  • Locally-produced pecorino cheese, aged in various ways including under walnut leaves or in barriques
  • Traditional Tuscan soup called ribollita, perfect with Rosso di Montalcino
  • Seasonal truffle dishes, particularly abundant in autumn
  • Locally-sourced cinghiale (wild boar) prepared in various ways

The town’s historic center features numerous enotecas and wine bars where visitors can sample wines by the glass, often accompanied by local salumi and cheese. Many establishments offer formal wine tasting flights, allowing guests to compare different producers and vintages in a single sitting.

Year-Round Wine Tourism

While Benvenuto Brunello marks a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year.

Winery Visits

Many of Montalcino’s 127 wineries welcome visitors year-round, though advance reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours including:

  • Vertical tastings of multiple vintages
  • Vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs
  • Barrel tastings in historic cellars
  • Food and wine pairing experiences
  • Helicopter tours of the denomination
  • Harvest experiences during September and October

Seasonal Events

  • Brunello Crossing (February): A series of competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes of varying difficulty from 10 to 44 kilometers
  • Jazz & Wine Festival (July): Combining world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings
  • L’Eroica (October): The famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, with a special route through the Brunello vineyards
  • Honey Week (September): Celebrating local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino

Natural and Cultural Attractions

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest:

  • Hiking and biking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging mountain bike routes
  • The famous cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films
  • Historic abbeys including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls
  • Natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo
  • The artistic treasures of nearby Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia

Practical Information for Visitors

Accommodation

Montalcino offers diverse lodging options:

  • Luxury wine resorts integrated with working wineries
  • Historic palace hotels in the town center
  • Intimate bed & breakfasts in converted farmhouses
  • Agriturismos offering authentic farm stays
  • Self-catering apartments in restored village houses

Transportation

  • The nearest train stations are Buonconvento (10 km) and Monte Amiata-Castiglione d’Orcia (13 km)
  • Regular bus service connects Montalcino with Siena (40 km)
  • Car rental is recommended for exploring the region’s wineries
  • Several companies offer private driver services specialized in wine tours
  • Electric bike rentals are available in town for environmentally conscious exploration

Best Times to Visit

  • Spring (April-May): Mild temperatures and wildflowers in bloom
  • Early Summer (June): Perfect weather for outdoor activities
  • Autumn (September-November): Harvest season and cultural events
  • Winter (December-February): Quiet season with crisp days and cozy wine tastings

This year’s Benvenuto Brunello is supported by the SRG10 “Promotion of quality products” intervention of the Complement for Rural Development of Tuscany 2023-2027, co-financed by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), demonstrating the continued investment in promoting this exceptional wine region’s heritage and future.

The 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello was a comprehensive celebration of one of Italy’s most prestigious wines, offering participants an immersive experience in the tradition, innovation, and excellence that define Brunello di Montalcino. Through technical tastings, producer interactions, and educational masterclasses, the event continues to evolve while honoring the timeless appeal of this iconic Tuscan wine.

PART ll – Wine Reviews by Liz Palmer