Category: Italian Wine

Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation – Part ll

The Abruzzo wine region is emerging and being rediscovered not only from cultural, historic, and architectural perspectives, the regional also has remarkable wines and gastronomic traditions. It is interesting to note that Abruzzo is Italy’s fifth-largest wine-producing region.  Wine producers, and grape growers previously focused on quantity over quality.  On my recent trip to the region, I met a new generation of innovative winemakers and wine producers who are revitalizing wine production and it certainly shows that Abruzzo has a bright future!  Here are some of my highlights and experiences on wineries visited and wines tasted.

Emidio Pepe
At a Glance

The vineyards are located in the northern province of Teramo, in the town of Torano Nuovo – between the Adriatic coast and the Gran Sasso and Maiella mountains. The estate has 15 hectares of vineyards; with soils that are rich in clay and limestone. 

  • Emidio Pepe produces three wines: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo; Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and Pecorino;
  • Is a benchmark-producer of Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo;
  • Is one of the pioneers of Biodynamic winemaking in Italy;
  • No oak used in the winemaking process – fermentation is in cement and then bottle-aged;
  • The grapes are grown biodynamically, hand-harvested, hand-destemmed, fermented with spontaneous yeast and aged 18-24 months in glass-lined cement tanks;
  • Red grapes are crushed by hand, and white grapes are crushed by foot;
  • These are some of the most age-worthy, legendary wines in Abruzzo and in Italy;
  • Emidio Pepe has created some amazingly complex age-worthy reds and whites in a region of mass-produced wines;
  • The family has been producing wines here since the end of the 19th Century, the winemaking process has remained philosophically unchanged since Emidio Pepe took over the estate in 1964;
  • Wine production has been in the hands of the fourth generation of the Pepe family, sisters Daniela and Sofia, since 1997 – more recently, the Chiara de Iulis Pepe has joined the estate as the fifth generation;
  • No additives or sulfites are used; and
  • All bottles are hand-decanted before entering the market.

We received a very warm welcome by Emidio Pepe, and his lovely granddaughter Chiara De lulis Pepe to the family estate.  Chiara showed us the cellars and vineyards.  Chiara explained that she follows the example of her grandfather and would like to continue to make “fine wines that are made to age and evoked this particular place…between the sea and the Gran Sasso range.”

I was served a traditional seven-course dinner which was paired wonderfully with nine wines. First up was Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2019, 2009, and 2004. These vintage whites made from the Trebbiano variety were outstanding. Wonderful classics with brilliant harmony and long length.

I also tasted the 2013 Emidio Pepe Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT – which was outstanding!

2013 Emidio Pepe Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT
This as Pepe’s other white wine that you should “must try”!  Highly recommended. Intensely flavored with yellow plums, herbs, white flowers and minerals; full of personality; long length.
93/100

Followed by Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007, 2003, 2002, 2001, and 1983 vintages.  This was certainly fun and interesting to taste these older vintages – the 1983 and 2001 really stood out for me.

1983 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
The 1983 vintage was fully mature and at its peak today. It exuberated a wonderful nose of red berries, forest floor, herbal notes, spice; while on the palate it was a deep, full-bodied, and complex wine with a wonderful balance and long length.  A wonderful wine!
94/100

The 2000 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was missing.  This vintage is one of Emidio Pepe’s personal favorites – hence the missing vintage. According to his granddaughter, this vintage was “delicious with beautiful red cherry fruit, licorice and spice.”

2001 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
This dark cherry red wine had wonderful rich aromas of ripe red cherries, herbs, and leather which flowed through to the palate ending with a long and lively finish. This wine has many more years of aging potential.
93/100

“I definitely consider myself extremely lucky to taste all these Emidio Pepe vintages all at one sitting….with the Emidio Pepe family – what a wonderful experience!” Liz Palmer

Website: https://www.emidiopepe.com/en/

Castorani
At at Glance

Castorani dates back to 1793, and is characterized by a stunning 18th-century villa. The organic winery is located between the Majella National Park and the Adriatic Coast, 30 km from the coast. The estate owns 75 acres of beautiful, lush countryside which include the vineyards, in the province of Pescara in Abruzzo.

I was sooooo thrilled to visit Castorani as I am an F1 Fanatic! Castorani was recently acquired by two partners: a former F1 driver, Jarno Trulli, and his manager, Lucio Cavuto.  These two partners have revived the winery, and both take care of the day-to-day activities including winemaking through to the promotion of the wines.

The estate’s principal grape varieties include: Malvasia, Cococciola, Pecorino, Passerina, and Montepulciano. Castorani is also experimenting with new varietals. This estate believes “Pursuit of excellence can only be satisfied through respect for traditional expertise.” Wine production is in a temperature-controlled underground cellar.

Lucio Cavuto gave us a tour of the property, the underground wine production facility, and Angelo Molisani, the winemaker. One of the former F1 cars was the office lobby ….. what a “sight to behold WOW !!! Angelo gave an overview of Castorani’s wine production, vineyards, harvest and other technical details which was followed by an amazing wine tasting experience with both Luco and Angelo.

Wines that stood out:

2015 Jarno Rosso Colline Pescaresi IG
A beautiful intense ruby red colour, intense spice aromas, licorice and red fruits, hints of vanilla, and chocolate; It is full-bodied and rich on the palate with elegant tannins; long finish – intense and persistent. A great wine!
91/100

2016 Amorino Casauria Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
The colour shows a deep garnet red; concentrated aromas rich in cherry, black pepper, and chocolate; very structured palate, full-bodied and rich; elegant tannins with a long finish.
91/100

Website:  https://www.castorani.it/en/

Other wineries visited include:

Abbazia di Propezzano Website: http://www.destrasser.it/

Strappelli Website: https://cantinastrappelli.it/

Pasetti Winery Website: https://www.pasettivini.it/en/

Next Article in this edition is:
Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation – Part lll  Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo for the Summer!

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Garda Wine Stories: Exploring the Territory and Wines of Lake Garda – Filippo Magnani

From the 8th to 11th of June, the Garda DOC Consortium organized ‘Garda Wine Stories’, an event dedicated to the extraordinary peculiarities of the wine territory of Lake Garda. It was a full-scheduled press tour which included: seminars, masterclasses, in-depth analysis, guided cellar tours, and a stunning sailboat ride with tasting, aboard a cutter (equipped with the ancient trapezoidal sails). It was not only an opportunity for the Italian and international press to discuss in-depth the complex and vast territory, but also for wine lovers. On Friday, June 10th we attended a tasting with 20 producers, representing the best winemaking areas. The impeccable event was organized by the Consortium.

Discovering Garda DOC
The denomination Garda DOC was founded in 1996. It represents a large geographical area that groups in the same macro area other important Italian DOCs for a total of around 31,100 hectares under vine, of which 27,889 hectares are in the province of Verona, the outlying hectares are spread between the towns of Mantua and Brescia. Today, it has around 4,000 associated producers and a production of 21 million bottles, with a good prospect of further growth. The objective of the Consortium is to enhance the value of the varietal wines produced in these historical appellations and to give further opportunities of identification for those who grow in the outlying zones. The Consortium is playing an important role in pursuing a circular strategy that conveys all the resources that Lake Garda has, and the dialogue between the wine system, wine tourism and hospitality, sport activities, and gastronomy.

Garda – A Wine Territory around the Lake
Lake Garda is the largest body of water in Italy, extending for about 370 km2, it is encompassed by 3 Italian regions: Lombardy, Veneto, and Trentino Alto Adige. Its banks extend for 50 km from north to south and for about 17 km from east to west. In the imaginary triangle composed of the provinces of Trento (north), Brescia (south-west) and Verona (south-east), an extraordinary natural and cultural heritage is preserved. The landscape, from any point you look, is a jubilation of biodiversity, corners of extraordinary scenic beauty. Mountains, hills, and beaches are covered by the typical Mediterranean vegetation with olive trees, caper bushes, lemon and citron trees, agave plants and vines; all framed by historical and cultural sites, castles, harbours, charming villages, traces of human activities that have always influenced the appearance of Lake Garda shores.

The climate is mild in all its extension despite the northerly longitude. There are many factors that contribute to the incredible climatic conditions that make Lake Garda one of the most heterogeneous and interesting wine areas. The northern cone-shaped narrow area is surrounded by the Alps providing a shield from the cold currents from the North. The lake also plays an important mitigating action, lifting colder fogs in the mornings allowing the ventilation among the vines, and by absorbing heat and releasing it in relation to the external temperature. Winters are never harsh, and summers are hot. The daily temperature range is quite high due to the presence of a breeze blowing south in the morning and north in the afternoon, thermal excursion is an extremely important factor for the perfect ripening of the grapes.

From the gentle morainic hills of the southern basin to the extreme peaks of the Alps, the soil around Lake Garda is a puzzle of different compositions but perhaps the most distinctive and fascinating element has to do with the light. This place is glowing. The phenomenon of light refraction made possible by the size and depth of the lake is an element of great uniqueness in the territory. Here the vine finds a perfect place to grow, in a bright and lush nature, helped by the meticulous hands of brilliant winemakers. The wide area that covers Garda Doc includes countless grape varieties and many interpretations of them.

Each of the wine districts that stretch around Lake Garda bring traditions in production methods, history and, of course, the most representative vines from the different areas: Garganega, Trebbiano (Trebbiano di Soave and/or Trebbiano di Lugana), Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Corvina, Marzemino, and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Altogether, they constitute the backbone of Garda DOC wine production. Great importance is given to the sparkling wines using the varieties from the different wine areas: Garganega for white wines, Corvina for rosé, crémant method Chardonnay, but also Pinot Grigio, Reno, and Muller Thurgau.

The boundaries of DOC Garda embrace a wide area. Considering the extraordinary attitude of Italian wine territories to change connotations in a few meters, it’s hard to imagine how many environments coexist around the lake. The Consortium has been stimulating scientific research in order to improve the understanding of the pedoclimatic and oenological aspects of the Lake Garda territory, with the ultimate goal of proposing models with a sustainable footprint to enhance wine productions and to defend our extraordinary natural heritage.

Lake Garda: A Paradise for Wine Enthusiasts
Lake Garda is one of the most romantic locations and it represents the charm of the Dolce Vita Italiana. It is a real paradise for those who love wine, food, stunning natural scenery, sports, art and culture… in short, there is everything for everyone!  It is no coincidence, that the territory around the lake is one of the favorite destinations of lovers of our country (Italy). The road network and the water transport that connect the various areas of the lake allow wine enthusiasts and foodies to concentrate their exploration of the wines of the DOC Garda even on a short holiday.  A journey in a journey, a shining example of how wine tourism became the “art of hospitality”.  The Consorizio Garda DOC is proposed as a promoter of the territory of Lake Garda as a wine escape, collecting and communicating the infinite experiences that can be carried out and proposing them through multiple channels. Visit where official site www.gardadocvino.it  where you learn about amazing stays on these shores, in the section “experience”.

#gardadoc #staywithus #wine #gardalake #italy #italianwineregion #GardaWineStories #LakegardaItaly #italianwinelover #winelover #gastronomy #wine #vino #gardawines #wineexperience #winetasting #winetourism #sailing

Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation – Part l

I discovered, during my recent trip to the Abruzzo wine region, that it’s in an “exciting phase of transformation” – there are a higher number of family estates; I see more wineries adopting organic farming; and the winemakers are moving toward terroir-focused wines – which are more complex and have distinctive characteristics of the region.

In the early 1970s through to 1980s, this region was dominated by large co-op wineries. During this period most families sold their grapes directly to the co-ops.

About the Abruzzo Wine Region
Abruzzo is an Italian wine region which is on the East coast of Italy, on the Adriatic Sea. I found the geographical features of Abruzzo to be quite extraordinary. It’s a rugged, mountainous region with an extensive rugged coastline, a landscape of lush green, scattered with national parks and forests. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea (to the East), the Apennine Mountain range with the Maiella massif (to the West). Gran Sasso, one of Italy’s highest peaks at 2,912m (9,554 ft) can also be found here.

There is only one DOCG, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane, and there are three DOCs: Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and one white: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

The grape varieties include native red Montepulciano and native white Trebbiano. Other native grape varieties include Sangiovese, Passerina, Pecorino and Cococciola. Other international varieties include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Please Note: Abruzzo’s signature red grape “Montepulciano de Abruzzo” should not be confused with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano from Tuscany.

Fun Fact: According to local legend the native white grape “Pecorino” was named after the sheep that ate this grape in the vineyards.

According to the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo (the Consortium for the Protection of Wines of Abruzzo) this region currently has approximately 250 wineries, 35 co-ops, 34,000 hectares of vineyards – which produces over 1.2 million bottles of wine per year.

Weather
The coast has a Mediterranean climate – abundant sunshine, with average rainfall of 26 inches per year, followed by cold winters. Inland has more of a continental climate. with snow in the winter. In the high altitudes there are measurable diurnal temperature variations, combined with cool mountain air currents. There are also moderate temperatures on the slope-vineyards, which provides a mesoclimate for the vines.

Abruzzo Viticulture – Vine Training
80% of the vines are Abruzzo-pergola training system which was designed to shade bunches and to make harvest less arduous. The remaining 20%, which are mainly new plantings, have planted in rows with spurred cordon, free cordon, GDC.

Interesting Facts

  • Winemaking traditions in Abruzzo date back to the sixth century BC due to the Etruscans, who played a major role in introducing viniculture to the area.
  • There is also evidence that vine-growing goes back further, as far as the fourth century BC, when sweet, Moscato-style grape “Apianae” was grown. It is also believed that when Hannibal made his epic journey over the Alps, his soldiers were given Abruzzo wine from Teramo, previously known as Pretuzi.
  • In terms of quantitative wine production, Abruzzo is Italy’s fifth most notable wine region followed by Sicily, Puglia, Veneto and Emilia-Romagna.

Located a scenic two-hour drive east from Rome, the Abruzzo wine region marries centuries of tradition with modern style. Cin-cin!

Stay tuned for Part ll – Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation, where I will do a deep dive into some of the estates.

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#abruzzodoc #cerasuolodabruzzo #italianwinelovers

The Trabocchi Coast – Abruzzo

I’m just back from Abruzzo, Italy – It’s a fascinating region of majestic mountains, national parks, stunning seascapes, charming villages, breathtaking views, and exceptional wines.

The coast of Abruzzo ranges from flat golden sandy beaches to dramatic coastlines with high cliffs to pebble beaches, which is on the Adriatic Sea.  The water temperature can reach 28 degrees in the summer. I was told by the local lifeguards that you can swim starting in April to the first week of October.  It’s interesting to note that Abruzzo has one of the highest densities of “blue flag” beaches in Italy!

What I found fascinating is the “Trabocchi Coast” a UNESCO World Heritage-protected for its traditional wooden fishing structures “Trabocchi.” This stunning 70-kilometer coast goes from Ortona to San Salvo (Chieti) and is a beautiful drive where you can see the striking collection of these stilt wooden huts. Some have been left abandoned, which make them more mystical, and some have been turned into restaurants.

Trabocchi were constructed by local fishermen in the 18th Century and were simply an extension of the rocky coastline. In order to facilitate fishing, boards were placed on the submerged rocks on the beaches so the fishermen could fish further offshore. Gradually, wooden stilts were used to erect freestanding platforms, which allowed the fishermen to project further out into the sea and were connected to land by long narrow boardwalks. The local fisherman fished for for anchovies, sardines, sea bream and sea bass.

The Trabocchi have been described as “colossal spiders” and “machines that seemed to live their own lives”  Gabriele D’Annunzio.

After speaking to locals, I found out that some of the Trabocchi are a few centuries old and still belong to fishing families.

It truly was an amazing experience .. walking along the boardwalk suspended above the sea, the smell of algae and crashing waves over the rocks – the atmosphere is both magical and romantic.

Having dinner on the Trabocchi we ate fresh fish and drank local white wines Pecorino and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – an unforgettable evening with amazing views!

The “Trabocchi Experience” is a must when you visit Abruzzo!

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charmeu_usa

 

Grand Tasting of Abruzzo at Palazzo D’Avalos, Vasto – Part l

I was thrilled to be invited by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo to take part in the “Grand Tasting Vini d’Abruzzo 2022”.  This year, the event was held on June 8th at the historical Palazzo d’Avalos in the town of Vasto, Province of Chieti.

The Palazzo d’Avalos showcases some important examples of Abruzzese Renaissance architecture.  It not only has stunning views the Adriatic Sea, it is also home to the Museo Civico Archaeologica.  A long leisurely lunch with breathtaking views was held in the magnificent Neapolitan-style gardens.

For the Grand Tasting, there were 120 national/international journalists and sommeliers in attendance. We had the opportunity to taste over 300 labels from the Abruzzo region. Wines were organized and poured by members of the Italian Sommelier Association, ‘AIS’ / Associazione Italiana Sommelier. I’m happy to say that there were over 76 wineries who participated in the tasting this year. It was a wonderful opportunity to taste wines from the four production areas: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and L’Aquila, which included DOCG, DOC and IGT: Abruzzo DOCGs, DOCs and IGTs: Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG, Controguerra DOC, IGT Colli Aprutini, IGT Colli del Sangro, IGT Colline Frentane, IGT Colline Pescaresi, IGT Colline Teatine, IGT del Vastese / Histonium, IGT Terre Aquilane / Terre de L’Aquila, IGT Terre di Chieti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Ortona DOC, Terre Tollesi / Tullum DOCG, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, and Villamagna DOC.

Opening speeches were delivered by: Valentino Di Campli, President Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo and Licia Fioravante Councilor for Tourism.

“We are honored to be able to host in Vasto, in the marvelous setting of Palazzo d’Avalos, over 120 specialized journalists who have come from all over the world to learn about our good wine. Thanks to the president Valentino Di Campli and the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo – concluded the councilor for tourism, Licia Fioravante – for having wanted to include us in the “Grand Tasting Vini d’Abruzzo 2022” and in the broader program of the Abruzzo Wine Experience” which aims to make known the extraordinary increase in the quality level of Abruzzo wine, in the wake of a path that links the good product of our land, culture and traditions. To the kind guests the warmest “Welcome to Vasto”, certain to offer a beautiful experience in this splendid part of Abruzzo ”

My tasting notes and further details will follow in Part ll.

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#montepulcianodabruzzo #trebbianodabruzzo #abruzzodoc #cerasuolodabruzzo