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Liz Palmer’s Exclusive Interview with Trailblazer of Argentine Wine Dr. Laura Catena + Wine Tasting Notes

Dr. Laura Catena is widely regarded as a leading figure in the Argentine wine industry, often described as “the face of Argentine wine.” Her contributions to the field are characterized by a profound commitment to advancing knowledge in viticulture, particularly in the domains of high-altitude cultivation, soil microbiome research, and wine ageability.

As a fourth-generation winemaker, Dr. Catena’s academic accolades are as inspiring as her wine expertise. She graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and later achieved her medical degree from Stanford University. Joining her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata—an icon in the wine world—at their family winery in 1995, Laura’s involvement sparked a new chapter of innovation. In 1999, she founded Luca Wines, named after her eldest son, with the goal of exploring the potential of old-vine Malbec in Argentina’s Uco Valley.

Dr. Catena’s scientific approach to winemaking materialized with the establishment of the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995, where her team meticulously examined the Adrianna Vineyard. This high-altitude vineyard, identified by her father as a game-changer for wine quality, is often regarded as one of the most scientifically studied vineyards globally.

In addition to her winemaking ventures, Dr. Catena is the author of Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina. Remarkably, she balanced her work as a pediatric emergency doctor until 2019, when she became managing director of Catena Zapata. Today, her compassion extends beyond wine, as she volunteers her medical expertise at a clinic in San Francisco serving individuals experiencing homelessness.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Laura Catena: Jancis Robinson was the first woman in the wine industry to inspire me. Jancis is highly principled and understands the power that she has as an influential journalist to actually make the world a better place.  She has single handedly taken on the cause of lightweight bottles and has been relentless in pushing producers to lower their wine bottle weights.  It’s because of Jancis that Catena joined the SWR – Sustainable Wine Roundtable – and that today we have reduced our overall bottle weight by 41% and that our average bottle weight is 420 grams.

I am influenced daily by the women in my Argentina production and exports teams.  They are super hard working and always looking for creative solutions to problems.  I’ve worked with many of the women at Catena for over two decades and watched them raise families and have successful careers.  I feel that it’s an honor to work with them.

I was once told that it’s important to have older and younger mentors, and I find this to be excellent advice.  I like to surround myself with women of all ages, and to non-stop learn from them.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Laura Catena: I recently attended a wine and health symposium in Rome as a speaker.  I was invited because I am a medical doctor (I practiced Emergency Medicine in San Francisco for 25 years) and I created a web site – www.indefenseofwine.com – to share science-based information about the potential benefits and harms of alcohol in moderation.  The speakers at the conference were leading medical doctors in the field of wine and health, longevity and Mediterranean Diet which includes wine.  It was such a great honor to attend as a speaker.  I don’t think that my Italian great grandfather who emigrated from Italy to Argentina in 1898 and started our Catena family winery in Argentina in 1902 could have imagined me going back to Italy as a speaker.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Laura Catena: We are doing a lot of work on water preservation, identifying ways to use less water by watering less in the early spring.  This requires many research trials and measurements, but it is exciting to find ways to reduce water usage by 10-30 % which is very significant because there is less ice in the Andean Glaciers due to climate change.  Another innovation is a protocol to study soil before planting.  We are planting in new regions to the north of Mendoza, in the provinces of La Rioja Argentina, Salta and Catamarca.  Every time we plant, we want to make sure to be using the right plant material in each soil type, following the best sun exposure to get the morning sun on the vines and grapes.  We are also working on preserving massale, genetically diverse cuttings of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda – this is very exciting because Argentina is the equivalent of a world heritage site for plant diversity because of our history of ungrafted planting by massale selection.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Laura Catena: In 2010 we created Argentina’s first Sustainability Code and worked with Bodegas de Argentina to make it available to all Argentine producers.  Today, we work with other producers to fulfill the code’s objectives, sharing information about best practices in the vineyards, water management and support of the local communities.  Our sustainability code is constantly being improved through the communal efforts of its member wineries.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Laura Catena: It is not easy for most people who love wine to drink in moderation.  This is a situation that we face as a species due to the abundance of endorphin-elevating beverages and food that surround us.  It is so easy to eat and drink too much.  I do believe that our industry needs to provide solutions for wine drinkers to moderate, and no/low beverages are a good option.  The beer industry has produced some excellent no alcohol alternatives.  The Catena Institute has worked on no/low wines for the last four years and we are currently launching three kinds of beverages under the brand Domaine EdeM (Domaine Elena de Mendoza) which includes a rose petal-infused dealcoholized sparkling rosé called ROSAE, two botanical infused must and verjus no alcohol sparkling beverages and two 7% alcohol sparkling Chardonnays: Uco Stones and Uco Mineral.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Laura Catena: The Catena Institute which I founded in 1995 is in constant collaboration with institutions all over the world (UC Davis, University of Burgundy, University of Bordeaux) – with over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals, we are the most published winery research institute in the world.  The Catena Institute just won the V d’Or Sustainability Award at Vinexposium in Wine Paris.  By collaborating with researchers all over the world, we are able to learn about the latest innovations in wine.  We also attend conferences and symposiums, such as the Conference on Lifestyle, Mediterranean Diet and Wine that I just attended in Rome or the Sustainability in Drinks – SID conference in London.  In 2024 we hosted the 15th International Terroir Congress in Mendoza, Argentina.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

  • First, take WSET or another wine class.  Wine is complex from a taste and historical/geographic standpoint and it’s important to understand the complexities in wine.  Try to taste a lot of different wines, it takes about three to four years to develop a wine palate.
  • If you are more interested in the technical side find a program that provides a lot of hands-on experience.
  • Take a job doing anything wine related: work at a wine store, wine bar, winery tasting room.
  • Find a few substacks or people to follow on social media – Instagram is what most wine people use
  • Visit as many wineries as possible

“Dr. Laura Catena, A heartfelt “Thank You” for sharing your invaluable insights, exceptional expertise, and unwavering dedication. You are a shining example of dedication, vision, and resilience—a pioneer who continues to elevate Argentine wine while making meaningful contributions to her community” Liz Palmer

Tasting Notes

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021 and
Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021
This remarkable high-altitude Malbec showcases a stunning deep violet hue, offering a visual prelude to its layered character. The aroma unveils an inviting blend of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, delicately enhanced by herbaceous undertones and a touch of warm spice. On the palate, it displays an intricate interplay of flavours, with juicy blueberries and rich cassis complemented by whispers of vanilla and nuanced spice. The finish lingers gracefully, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and refinement.

95 Points
Liz Palmer

Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021
With its inaugural 1997 vintage, Nicolás Catena Zapata became the first luxury cuvée from Argentina to be exported around the world. The wine recreates the “Original Bordeaux Blend” of the 18th and 19th Centuries, when Malbec dominated over Merlot and was in equal standing to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Médoc.

“The label’s striking design is a manifesto, symbolising the transformative journey of Argentinian wine, and for the first time we are using a wax seal to honour the pre-phylloxera origins of our vines”

Varietal: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc

This wine displays an intense deep purple hue and immediately draws you in with its expressive character. The aromas are dominated by dark fruits—succulent blackberries, luscious cherries, and ripe plums, accented by subtle touches of vanilla, chocolate, with a hint of minerality. On the palate, it boasts incredible depth, revealing herbal and spicy notes characteristic of Bordeaux varieties, including hints of black pepper and exotic spices. The wine’s concentration is remarkable, supported by a bold tannic structure. The finish is long and persistent, offering a clear indication of the wine’s outstanding potential for long-term aging. An Argentine masterpiece!

97 Points
Liz Palmer

Top 10 Countries with the Heaviest Wine Import Tariffs in 2025

Examples of these challenges include the United States’ proposed 200% tariff on European wines, China’s recently lifted 218% tariffs on Australian wines, and the consistently high import duties imposed by emerging markets such as India and Indonesia (OIV, 2024). These key examples illustrate how wine often becomes entangled in broader economic and geopolitical conflicts.

Below are listed [from low to high] the ten most significant wine import tariffs globally, encompassing both Most Favoured Nation (MFN) tariffs and retaliatory measures. Furthermore, distinctions between tariffs imposed on bottled versus bulk wine are discussed where relevant.

1. Russia – 20% on EU wines (potential 200% retaliation) (EU Commission, 2024)

Russia increased its tariff on wines from “unfriendly nations” (mainly the EU, US and UK) from 12.5% to 20% in 2023. This measure, in retaliation for Western sanctions, applies equally to bottled and bulk wine. Russian officials have threatened a 200% protective tariff on EU wines in response to continued sanctions, which would effectively eliminate European wine from the Russian market. Wine from “friendly” nations (e.g., Chile, Armenia, South Africa) continues to enter under lower or duty-free terms.

2. Brazil – 27% MFN tariff on all imported wine (WTO, 2024)

Brazil applies a 27% import duty under the Mercosur Common External Tariff, making it one of the highest base tariffs among major economies. This rate applies to both bottled and bulk wine, with no preferential treatment for large shipments. Additional state and federal taxes often push final retail prices far higher.

3. Morocco – 49% MFN tariff (Moroccan Trade Ministry, 2024)

Morocco imposes an approximate 49% MFN tariff on imported wine. While the European Union benefits from reduced rates due to a trade agreement, non-preferential nations face steep barriers. The tariff applies to all types of wine equally, without distinction between bottled and bulk.

4. Vietnam – 50% MFN tariff (phased reductions for trade partners) (Vietnam Ministry of Trade, 2024)

Vietnam applies a 50% MFN tariff on wine imports. However, it has gradually reduced tariffs for the EU, Australia and Chile through free trade agreements, with European wine set to enter duty-free by 2027. The 50% rate still applies to non-preferential wines, including those from the United States.

5. Indonesia – 90% MFN tariff on all wine categories (Indonesia Trade Authority, 2024)

Indonesia enforces a 90% import duty on all wines, whether bottled or bulk. Additional taxes, including excise duties and VAT, often make wine prohibitively expensive, with retail prices sometimes three to four times the import cost. The high tariff aligns with religious and social restrictions on alcohol.

6. India – 150% tariff on imported wines (Indian Ministry of Commerce, 2024)

India imposes a 150% import duty on all wines, one of the highest rates globally. Though free trade negotiations with the EU and UK are ongoing, no major reductions have been secured. Australia has managed to reduce duties for premium wines through a trade deal, but for most exporters, India remains one of the toughest wine markets due to state-level excise duties that further raise costs.

7. Iraq – 200% tariff on all alcohol imports (Iraqi Trade Authority, 2024)

Iraq levies a 200% import duty on all alcoholic beverages, including wine. This extreme tariff, in place since 2016, is one of the highest globally, effectively tripling the cost of imported wine. There are few exceptions, with only diplomatic imports and some tourism-sector imports avoiding the full tariff burden.

8. United States – Proposed 200% tariff on EU wine (unconfirmed) 

US President Donald Trump has proposed a 200% tariff on European wine in retaliation for EU tariffs on US goods. While this tariff has not been formally imposed, its potential impact would be catastrophic for EU wine exports, as the US remains a key market for European producers. If enforced, it would likely eliminate most European wine sales in the US.

9. Malaysia – 150–250% effective tax on wine (Malaysian Trade Ministry, 2024)

Malaysia employs a complex tax system where import duties, excise taxes, and VAT combine to impose an effective 150% to 250% tax on imported wine. Unlike other countries with simple ad valorem tariffs, Malaysia calculates duties based on alcohol content and volume, making it one of the most expensive markets for wine imports.

10. Egypt – 1,800% MFN tariff on still wine, 3,000% on sparkling wine (WTO, 2024)

Egypt imposes a staggering 1,800% tariff on still wine and 3,000% on sparkling wine, making it the highest import tariff in the world for wine. These tariffs effectively ban foreign wine imports, with only limited exemptions for the tourism sector where a 300% tariff plus VAT applies.

Source:  The Drinks Business UK

Wine Institute Urges Resolution of US-Canada Dispute

The Wine Institute issued the following statement this week in response to the announcements that the United States would be placing tariffs on imports from Canada, and the Canadian government responded with retaliatory tariffs against U.S. wine. Additionally, provincial leaders across Canada’s largest provinces threaten to remove U.S. wine and beverage alcohol from their provinces in response to the U.S. tariffs.

“Canada is the single most important export market for U.S. wines with retail sales over $1.1 billion annually,” said Robert P. Koch, President & CEO of Wine Institute. “Wine is one of the U.S.’s most highly value-added agricultural exports, so any loss of access to the Canadian market will damage the entire US wine sector. Our wineries have spent decades building market share and brand loyalty across Canada. These actions put all of this at risk. In addition, all of beverage alcohol is already facing unprecedented challenges in the marketplace so these tariffs and potential product removals come at a time when their impact will be tough to absorb. We urge both governments to work together to resolve this dispute as soon as possible to minimize the economic harm.”

The U.S. wine industry has long supported the position that wine, as a unique agricultural product, should not be targeted in trade disputes unrelated to wine. Wine Institute strongly advocates for the removal of wine from all trade retaliation lists regardless of the market. Retaliatory tariffs invariably harm U.S. wine producers and impede the growth of the wine sector.

US Treasury Proposes New Alcohol Label Rules

The United States Department of the Treasury’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has proposed new regulations requiring alcoholic beverage labels to include detailed information on alcohol and nutritional content. This proposal aims to introduce an “Alcohol Facts” label, akin to the “Nutrition Facts” label found on food products, to provide consumers with comprehensive information about the beverages they consume.

The proposed “Alcohol Facts” label would include disclosures on the alcohol percentage by volume, alcohol content in fluid ounces, calories, carbohydrates, fat, and protein for wines, distilled spirits, and malt beverages such as beer. Additionally, the TTB has proposed a rule mandating the listing of major food allergens on alcoholic beverage labels. These proposed regulations align with the recommendations from the February 2022 Treasury Department report titled “Competition in the Markets for Beer, Wine, and Spirits,” which suggested revisiting labelling requirements to include alcohol content, nutritional information, and serving sizes.

References:

  1. S. Department of the Treasury. (2022). Competition in the Markets for Beer, Wine, and Spirits.
  2. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). (2023). Proposed Regulations on Alcoholic Beverage Labeling.

Global tourism set for full recovery by 4Q with spending growing faster than arrivals

Around 1.1 billion tourists travelled internationally in the first nine months of 2024, as the global tourism sector recovered 98% of pre-pandemic levels. According to the latest World Tourism Barometer by UN Tourism, a full recovery from the biggest crisis in the sector’s history is expected by the end of the year, despite economic, geopolitical and climate challenges.

Four years after the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, which brought global tourism to a standstill, the Barometer reflects the sector’s remarkable recovery, with most regions already exceeding 2019 arrival numbers from January to September 2024. The report also shows outstanding results in terms of international tourism receipts, with most destinations with available data posting double-digit growth compared to 2019.

UN Tourism Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili states:

“The strong growth seen in tourism receipts is excellent news for economies around the world. The fact that visitor spending is growing even stronger than arrivals has a direct impact on millions of jobs and small businesses and contributes decisively to the balance of payments and tax revenues of many economies.”

Tourism Performance by Region

International tourist arrivals grew strongly in the first nine months of 2024, driven by strong post-pandemic demand in Europe and robust performance from large source markets globally, as well as the ongoing recovery of destinations in Asia and the Pacific. Increased air connectivity and visa facilitation also supported international travel.

The Middle East (+29% compared to 2019) continued to enjoy record growth this nine-month period, while Europe (+1%) and Africa (+6%) also exceeded 2019 levels.

The Americas recovered 97% of its pre-pandemic arrivals (-3% over 2019).

Asia and the Pacific reached 85% of 2019 levels as compared to a 66% recovery in 2023. Asia and the Pacific has experienced a gradual though uneven rebound in arrivals since the region reopened to international travel in 2023.

The summer season in the Northern Hemisphere was generally strong, with arrivals worldwide reaching 99% of pre-pandemic values in Q3 2024.

A total of 60 out of 111 destinations surpassed 2019 arrival numbers in the first eight to nine months of 2024. Some of the strongest performers in arrivals during this period were Qatar (+141% versus 2019) where arrivals more than doubled, Albania (+77%), Saudi Arabia (+61%), Curaçao (+48%), Tanzania (+43%), Colombia and Andorra (both +36%).

Tourism receipts show extraordinary growth

A total of 35 out of 43 countries with available data on receipts exceeded pre-pandemic values in the first eight to nine months of 2024, many reporting double-digit growth compared to 2019 (in local currencies), well above inflation in most cases.

Among the best performers in terms of earnings were Serbia (+99%) where receipts almost doubled (compared to the same months of 2019), as well as Pakistan (+64%), Romania (+61%), Japan (+59%), Portugal (+51%), Nicaragua and Tanzania (both 50%).

Among the world’s top earners, Japan (+59%), Türkiye (+41%) and France (+27%) all recorded double-digit growth through September 2024. Spain (+36%) and Italy (+26%) also reported strong visitor receipts, through August. The United Kingdom recorded 43% higher earnings, Canada 35%, and Australia 18%, all through June 2024. As for the United States, the world’s top tourism earner, it reported 7% growth through September.

Data on international tourism expenditure reflects the same trend, especially among large source markets such as Germany (+35% compared to 2019), the United States (+33%) and France (+11%).

Strong expenditure growth was also reported by the United Kingdom (+46%) Australia (+34%), Canada (+28%) and Italy (+26%), all through June 2024. Available data for India shows a surge in outbound spending from this increasingly important market, with 81% growth through June 2024 (versus 2019).

International tourist arrivals are expected to reach 2019 levels in 2024. International tourism receipts had already virtually achieved pre-pandemic levels in 2023.

Full report can be found: https://www.unwto.org/news/global-tourism-set-for-full-recovery-by-end-of-the-year-with-spending-growing-faster-than-arrivals

 

Source:  UN Tourism