Category: Wine and Food Pairings

The storied hills of Montalcino welcomed wine enthusiasts and professionals for the 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello, the foundational event among Italian wine previews dedicated to Tuscany’s most iconic red wine. From November 14-18, the medieval Chiostro Sant’Agostino in Montalcino hosted this prestigious gathering, featuring 127 wineries and over 500 labels, marking a return to tradition while embracing innovation in its presentation format.

A Return to Tradition with Modern Flair

This year’s event notably returns to its roots, combining professional technical tastings with walk-around opportunities where producers personally present their wines. The anticipated debut of Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Riserva 2019 took center stage, alongside the Rosso di Montalcino 2023, Moscadello, and Sant’Antimo. The revival of producer-attended tastings marks a significant evolution in the event’s format, creating more intimate opportunities for dialogue between winemakers and enthusiasts.

The Chiostro Sant’Agostino, with its historic architecture and serene atmosphere, provided an ideal setting for exploring these prestigious wines. The walk-around tastings offered visitors the chance to engage directly with producers, learning firsthand about their winemaking philosophies, terroir interpretations, and vintage characteristics.

A Strategic Autumn Preview

The event opened with two days of technical tastings exclusively for national and international press. These sessions featured professional sommelier service, allowing critics and journalists to evaluate the new releases under optimal conditions. The controlled environment and expert service ensured that each wine could be assessed thoroughly and objectively.

The program expanded significantly at the Teatro degli Astrusi with the thought-provoking discussion, “What future for the wine consortia.” This high-level industry forum brought together an unprecedented gathering of Italian wine’s most influential voices, including:

• Albiera Antinori (Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia)
• Francesco Cambria (Etna Doc)
• Sergio Germano (Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani)
• Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico)
• Christian Marchesini (Valpolicella)

Tasting Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

In general, Brunellos of this year turned out to be soft, fruity with good structure and alcohol content, making them very approachable to drink. This is partly a reflection of the vintage, which started quite dry with no frost in spring. The summer was also dry and quite hot with a great diurnal temperature range (temperature difference between night and day). The season ended with some rain at the beginning of September, which gave a little relief to the grapes.

The Rise of Brunello: A Legacy of Excellence

After more than five decades since achieving DOCG status, Brunello di Montalcino continues to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide. The wine’s modern success story, beginning in the late 19th century, is inextricably linked to visionaries like Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who pioneered the extended oak aging that would become a hallmark of Brunello’s distinctive character.

Today’s Brunello maintains these exacting standards while embracing modern precision in both vineyard and cellar. The DOCG requirements remain among Italy’s most stringent, requiring a minimum of four years aging, including two years in oak and four months in bottle, with Riserva wines demanding an additional year of maturation.

Terroir and Tradition Meet Innovation

The success of Brunello di Montalcino stems from the perfect marriage of the Sangiovese grape with Montalcino’s diverse terroir. The region’s varying elevations (250-600 meters above sea level) and complex soil compositions create a tapestry of microclimates that contribute to the wine’s renowned complexity.

The northern sector’s limestone and shale soils produce wines of particular finesse and aromatic complexity, while the central zone’s clay and marl contribute to wines of substantial structure and depth. The southern area, influenced by volcanic soils, yields wines of remarkable power and intensity. This diversity allows producers to craft wines that reflect their specific location while maintaining the high standards that define Brunello di Montalcino.

Today, over half of Montalcino’s producers are certified organic, demonstrating the region’s commitment to sustainable viticulture while preserving traditional winemaking excellence. This environmental consciousness extends beyond the vineyard, with many producers implementing sustainable practices throughout their operations.

Experiencing Montalcino: A Complete Tuscan Journey

Visitors to Benvenuto Brunello will find themselves in one of Tuscany’s most captivating wine destinations, where centuries of winemaking tradition blend seamlessly with modern hospitality. The medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, perched at 564 meters above sea level, offers a perfect base for exploring both the wines and the rich cultural heritage of the region.

The Historic Heart of Montalcino

The town’s crowning glory, the 14th-century Rocca fortress, stands as a testament to Montalcino’s historical significance. This perfectly preserved stronghold now houses the Enoteca la Fortezza, one of the region’s premier wine destinations. Here, visitors can taste an extensive selection of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, with expert sommeliers offering guidance through the various producers and vintages. The fortress’s ramparts provide breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards, the Val d’Orcia, and Monte Amiata, making it an essential stop for photographers and wine lovers alike.

Gastronomic Treasures

Montalcino’s culinary scene perfectly complements its wines, with restaurants ranging from traditional trattorias to Michelin-starred establishments. Local specialties include:

• Hand-rolled pici pasta, often served with robust wild boar ragù or the traditional pepper and cheese sauce called “cacio e pepe”
• Locally-produced pecorino cheese, aged in various ways including under walnut leaves or in barriques
• Traditional Tuscan soup called ribollita, perfect with Rosso di Montalcino
• Seasonal truffle dishes, particularly abundant in autumn
• Locally-sourced cinghiale (wild boar) prepared in various ways

The town’s historic center features numerous enotecas and wine bars where visitors can sample wines by the glass, often accompanied by local salumi and cheese. Many establishments offer formal wine tasting flights, allowing guests to compare different producers and vintages in a single sitting.

Year-Round Wine Tourism

While Benvenuto Brunello marks a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year.

Winery Visits

Many of Montalcino’s 127 wineries welcome visitors year-round, though advance reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours including:

• Vertical tastings of multiple vintages
• Vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs
• Barrel tastings in historic cellars
• Food and wine pairing experiences
• Helicopter tours of the denomination
• Harvest experiences during September and October

Seasonal Events

• Brunello Crossing (February): A series of competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes of varying difficulty from 10 to 44 kilometers
• Jazz & Wine Festival (July): Combining world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings
• L’Eroica (October): The famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, with a special route through the Brunello vineyards
• Honey Week (September): Celebrating local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino

Natural and Cultural Attractions

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest:

• Hiking and biking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging mountain bike routes
• The famous cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films
• Historic abbeys including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls
• Natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo
• The artistic treasures of nearby Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia

Practical Information for Visitors

Accommodation

Montalcino offers diverse lodging options:

• Luxury wine resorts integrated with working wineries
• Historic palace hotels in the town center
• Intimate bed & breakfasts in converted farmhouses
• Agriturismos offering authentic farm stays
• Self-catering apartments in restored village houses

Transportation

• The nearest train stations are Buonconvento (10 km) and Monte Amiata-Castiglione d’Orcia (13 km)
• Regular bus service connects Montalcino with Siena (40 km)
• Car rental is recommended for exploring the region’s wineries
• Several companies offer private driver services specialized in wine tours
• Electric bike rentals are available in town for environmentally conscious exploration

Best Times to Visit

• Spring (April-May): Mild temperatures and wildflowers in bloom
• Early Summer (June): Perfect weather for outdoor activities
• Autumn (September-November): Harvest season and cultural events
• Winter (December-February): Quiet season with crisp days and cozy wine tastings

This year’s Benvenuto Brunello is supported by the SRG10 “Promotion of quality products” intervention of the Complement for Rural Development of Tuscany 2023-2027, co-financed by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), demonstrating the continued investment in promoting this exceptional wine region’s heritage and future.

The 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello was a comprehensive celebration of one of Italy’s most prestigious wines, offering participants an immersive experience in the tradition, innovation, and excellence that define Brunello di Montalcino. Through technical tastings, producer interactions, and educational masterclasses, the event continues to evolve while honoring the timeless appeal of this iconic Tuscan wine.

PART ll – Wine Reviews by Liz Palmer