Category: Wine in Moderation

Dr. Laura Catena is widely regarded as a leading figure in the Argentine wine industry, often described as “the face of Argentine wine.” Her contributions to the field are characterized by a profound commitment to advancing knowledge in viticulture, particularly in the domains of high-altitude cultivation, soil microbiome research, and wine ageability.

As a fourth-generation winemaker, Dr. Catena’s academic accolades are as inspiring as her wine expertise. She graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and later achieved her medical degree from Stanford University. Joining her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata—an icon in the wine world—at their family winery in 1995, Laura’s involvement sparked a new chapter of innovation. In 1999, she founded Luca Wines, named after her eldest son, with the goal of exploring the potential of old-vine Malbec in Argentina’s Uco Valley.

Dr. Catena’s scientific approach to winemaking materialized with the establishment of the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995, where her team meticulously examined the Adrianna Vineyard. This high-altitude vineyard, identified by her father as a game-changer for wine quality, is often regarded as one of the most scientifically studied vineyards globally.

In addition to her winemaking ventures, Dr. Catena is the author of Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina. Remarkably, she balanced her work as a pediatric emergency doctor until 2019, when she became managing director of Catena Zapata. Today, her compassion extends beyond wine, as she volunteers her medical expertise at a clinic in San Francisco serving individuals experiencing homelessness.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Laura Catena: Jancis Robinson was the first woman in the wine industry to inspire me. Jancis is highly principled and understands the power that she has as an influential journalist to actually make the world a better place.  She has single handedly taken on the cause of lightweight bottles and has been relentless in pushing producers to lower their wine bottle weights.  It’s because of Jancis that Catena joined the SWR – Sustainable Wine Roundtable – and that today we have reduced our overall bottle weight by 41% and that our average bottle weight is 420 grams.

I am influenced daily by the women in my Argentina production and exports teams.  They are super hard working and always looking for creative solutions to problems.  I’ve worked with many of the women at Catena for over two decades and watched them raise families and have successful careers.  I feel that it’s an honor to work with them.

I was once told that it’s important to have older and younger mentors, and I find this to be excellent advice.  I like to surround myself with women of all ages, and to non-stop learn from them.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Laura Catena: I recently attended a wine and health symposium in Rome as a speaker.  I was invited because I am a medical doctor (I practiced Emergency Medicine in San Francisco for 25 years) and I created a web site – www.indefenseofwine.com – to share science-based information about the potential benefits and harms of alcohol in moderation.  The speakers at the conference were leading medical doctors in the field of wine and health, longevity and Mediterranean Diet which includes wine.  It was such a great honor to attend as a speaker.  I don’t think that my Italian great grandfather who emigrated from Italy to Argentina in 1898 and started our Catena family winery in Argentina in 1902 could have imagined me going back to Italy as a speaker.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Laura Catena: We are doing a lot of work on water preservation, identifying ways to use less water by watering less in the early spring.  This requires many research trials and measurements, but it is exciting to find ways to reduce water usage by 10-30 % which is very significant because there is less ice in the Andean Glaciers due to climate change.  Another innovation is a protocol to study soil before planting.  We are planting in new regions to the north of Mendoza, in the provinces of La Rioja Argentina, Salta and Catamarca.  Every time we plant, we want to make sure to be using the right plant material in each soil type, following the best sun exposure to get the morning sun on the vines and grapes.  We are also working on preserving massale, genetically diverse cuttings of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda – this is very exciting because Argentina is the equivalent of a world heritage site for plant diversity because of our history of ungrafted planting by massale selection.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Laura Catena: In 2010 we created Argentina’s first Sustainability Code and worked with Bodegas de Argentina to make it available to all Argentine producers.  Today, we work with other producers to fulfill the code’s objectives, sharing information about best practices in the vineyards, water management and support of the local communities.  Our sustainability code is constantly being improved through the communal efforts of its member wineries.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Laura Catena: It is not easy for most people who love wine to drink in moderation.  This is a situation that we face as a species due to the abundance of endorphin-elevating beverages and food that surround us.  It is so easy to eat and drink too much.  I do believe that our industry needs to provide solutions for wine drinkers to moderate, and no/low beverages are a good option.  The beer industry has produced some excellent no alcohol alternatives.  The Catena Institute has worked on no/low wines for the last four years and we are currently launching three kinds of beverages under the brand Domaine EdeM (Domaine Elena de Mendoza) which includes a rose petal-infused dealcoholized sparkling rosé called ROSAE, two botanical infused must and verjus no alcohol sparkling beverages and two 7% alcohol sparkling Chardonnays: Uco Stones and Uco Mineral.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Laura Catena: The Catena Institute which I founded in 1995 is in constant collaboration with institutions all over the world (UC Davis, University of Burgundy, University of Bordeaux) – with over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals, we are the most published winery research institute in the world.  The Catena Institute just won the V d’Or Sustainability Award at Vinexposium in Wine Paris.  By collaborating with researchers all over the world, we are able to learn about the latest innovations in wine.  We also attend conferences and symposiums, such as the Conference on Lifestyle, Mediterranean Diet and Wine that I just attended in Rome or the Sustainability in Drinks – SID conference in London.  In 2024 we hosted the 15^th International Terroir Congress in Mendoza, Argentina.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

• First, take WSET or another wine class.  Wine is complex from a taste and historical/geographic standpoint and it’s important to understand the complexities in wine.  Try to taste a lot of different wines, it takes about three to four years to develop a wine palate.
• If you are more interested in the technical side find a program that provides a lot of hands-on experience.
• Take a job doing anything wine related: work at a wine store, wine bar, winery tasting room.
• Find a few substacks or people to follow on social media – Instagram is what most wine people use
• Visit as many wineries as possible

“Dr. Laura Catena, A heartfelt “Thank You” for sharing your invaluable insights, exceptional expertise, and unwavering dedication. You are a shining example of dedication, vision, and resilience—a pioneer who continues to elevate Argentine wine while making meaningful contributions to her community” Liz Palmer

Tasting Notes

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021 and
Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021
This remarkable high-altitude Malbec showcases a stunning deep violet hue, offering a visual prelude to its layered character. The aroma unveils an inviting blend of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, delicately enhanced by herbaceous undertones and a touch of warm spice. On the palate, it displays an intricate interplay of flavours, with juicy blueberries and rich cassis complemented by whispers of vanilla and nuanced spice. The finish lingers gracefully, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and refinement.

95 Points
Liz Palmer

Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021
With its inaugural 1997 vintage, Nicolás Catena Zapata became the first luxury cuvée from Argentina to be exported around the world. The wine recreates the “Original Bordeaux Blend” of the 18th and 19th Centuries, when Malbec dominated over Merlot and was in equal standing to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Médoc.

“The label’s striking design is a manifesto, symbolising the transformative journey of Argentinian wine, and for the first time we are using a wax seal to honour the pre-phylloxera origins of our vines”

Varietal: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc

This wine displays an intense deep purple hue and immediately draws you in with its expressive character. The aromas are dominated by dark fruits—succulent blackberries, luscious cherries, and ripe plums, accented by subtle touches of vanilla, chocolate, with a hint of minerality. On the palate, it boasts incredible depth, revealing herbal and spicy notes characteristic of Bordeaux varieties, including hints of black pepper and exotic spices. The wine’s concentration is remarkable, supported by a bold tannic structure. The finish is long and persistent, offering a clear indication of the wine’s outstanding potential for long-term aging. An Argentine masterpiece!

97 Points
Liz Palmer