Valpolicella Charts New Path: Amarone’s Journey from Volume to Value

On February 1 and 2, the Valpolicella Wine Consortium celebrated the 20th anniversary of Amarone Opera Prima with world-renowned tenor Vittorio Grigolo, a former Sistine Chapel soloist and Arena Opera Festival star since 2013.

The two-day event, hosted in the 17th-century Gran Guardia building on Piazza Brà, featured 70 producers. Consortium President Christian Marchesini focused his keynote on Valpolicella’s future amid shifting global markets and consumer preferences. Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi, the consortium’s vice-president, noted that while past Amarone production catered to demand for smooth, approachable reds in high volumes, today’s market seeks wines with stronger territorial identity and clear messaging. He emphasized the need for synergy between method, territory, producers, and communication, requiring cultural, legislative, and production changes to shift from volume to value.

Vintage 2020

In general, Amarone 2020 turned out to be soft and fruity with good structural balance, a true reflection of the vintage. The year began with normal bud burst timing and a warm, dry spring. Despite weather fluctuations—including June rains, July heat, and late-summer rainfall—skilled vineyard management ensured healthy fruit development. The mid-September harvest yielded grapes that produced an exceptional Amarone, characterized by perfect ripeness, balanced acidity, and profound aromatics that masterfully express both varietal and traditional appassimento characteristics. This exceptional wine promises remarkable aging potential, driven by its precise acidity and true-to-type expression. Its sophisticated bouquet weaves together authentic varietal notes with distinctive aromas from the appassimento process and barrel aging. In the glass, it commands attention with its profound color depth, impeccable structural balance, and harmonious alcohol integration.

Territory, Tourism, and Market Changes Shape New Strategy as Valpolicella Celebrates 100 Years

“The three wines of Valpolicella uniquely reflect the varied tastes across generations among Italian denominations. Amarone and Recioto appeal to mature consumers, Ripasso to millennials, and Valpolicella—a contemporary wine which Milo Manara fittingly depicted with a woman—to the younger generation,” said Christian Marchesini, President of the Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium, at Amarone Opera Prima. The event celebrated the centenary of Veneto’s first wine consortium, which now represents over 2,400 companies, 360 bottlers, and approximately 8,600 hectares of vineyards.

The Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium anchors Italy’s wine heritage, bringing together over 2,400 businesses throughout 19 municipalities in Verona province. This dynamic collective encompasses growers, winemakers, and bottlers who tend to 8,600 hectares of prestigious vineyards. With annual revenues exceeding 600 million euros—predominantly driven by Amarone’s success—the Consortium safeguards and champions the denomination’s interests both within Italy and abroad. Representing over 70% of the region’s production, it serves as the authoritative voice for one of Italy’s most distinguished wine regions.

Regional Characteristics and Denominations

Valpolicella’s distinctiveness stems from its location between the Dolomites and Lake Garda. The Monti Lessini plateau shields vineyards from Alpine cold, while Lake Garda provides mild winters and ventilation, enabling longer growing seasons that produce concentrated wines with high acidity. The region’s traditional appassimento method—grape drying—creates its flagship Amarone wine.

The region produces four wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. Each can originate from three territories: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella DOC Classico, and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena.

Experiencing Valpolicella

The region offers diverse attractions beyond wine. Historic villages like San Giorgio di Valpolicella showcase 12th-century Romanesque architecture, while Fumane features the preserved Maso degli Orzi rural complex. San Pietro in Cariano’s Villa Serego Alighieri serves as both winery and museum.

Verona, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides an ideal base for exploring. The city features the Roman Arena, Juliet’s House, and Piazza delle Erbe. Nearby Lake Garda offers water sports and scenic villages.

Local cuisine includes specialties like bigoli with duck ragù and paparotte (cabbage and bean soup), perfectly complementing regional wines.

Legacy in Motion: Protecting Valpolicella’s Appassimento Tradition

The Valpolicella community seeks UNESCO Intangible Heritage status for its appassimento tradition—not for commercial gain, as Amarone already generates over 600 million euros in revenue, but to preserve the practice for future generations. The application process has unified the community while respecting individual approaches to tradition and innovation. Visitors can experience this heritage through various accommodations, from intimate farmhouses to luxury wine resorts in converted Renaissance villas, all within 30 minutes of Verona.

My Choices of Valpolicella’s Producers

Below are a few notable producers that caught my eye and palate during this year’s Amarone Opera Prima event. They range from historic estates to new state-of-the-art wineries, and small, passionate producers focused on terroir and sustainability.

CONTRADA PALUIwww.contradapalui.com Contrada Palui is a relatively new producer created by the innovative and passionate Hannes Pichler. After studying renewable energies in London and Milan, Hannes discovered a naturally organic green meadow in the Valpolicella region, just northeast of Verona, which had never seen pesticides. He planted a vineyard there. The unique location benefits from 500 meters elevation and 180 degrees of sun exposure. The soil composition includes clay, limestone, flint, and black basalt, allowing Hannes to produce very terroir-driven wines. He converted an old hay barn to store his barrels and amphorae.

LA COLLINA DEI CILIEGIwww.lacollinadeiciliegi.it Nestled in the hills of the Valpantena territory, the charming Collina dei Ciliegi is the dream of winemaker Massimo Gianolli. He began his journey in 2005 with a small production of grapes that became the first Amarone produced in the small village of Erbin. Now, La Collina dei Ciliegi produces three collections exported to over 20 countries worldwide. They have some of the highest vineyards in Valpolicella (750m) with chalky soils that produce wines with excellent acidity and minerality. Their modern approach includes new blends that combine traditional and international varieties. A visit to the winery offers a memorable journey through the land, culture, and flavors of Valpantena. Their beautifully restored farmhouse, Ca’ Del Moro, welcomes visitors for tastings, vineyard walks, fine dining, and stays in six finely refurbished rooms, each named after symbolic wines of the region (Amarone, Valpolicella, Recioto, Ripasso, Garganega, and Corvina).

LE GUAITE DI NOEMI www.leguaite.it Noemi Pizzighella, the driving force behind Le Guaite, is a young and highly respected winemaker in Veneto. Growing up in the vineyards of Mezzane di Sotto, north of Verona, Noemi was immersed in the rich viticultural traditions of her family. Her father, Stefano Pizzighella, started a small olive oil production in 1987, making the most of the family’s olive groves. Inspired by her father’s dedication, Noemi developed a passion for winemaking as a child.

Le Guaite’s portfolio includes the celebrated Amarone della Valpolicella, known for its rich, robust profile with notes of dark fruit, spice, and a velvety finish. The Valpolicella Superiore is another standout, offering a harmonious balance of red berries, herbs, and subtle oak. Noemi’s meticulous attention to detail ensures that each bottle embodies the essence of the region. Her wines include Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Tano IGT Rosso Veronese. These wines are celebrated for their fresh and fruity nuances, distancing themselves from the opulence of certain other Valpolicella wines.

MASSIMAGOwww.massimago.com Hidden in the valley of Mezzane in Valpolicella is the Massimago winery which dates back to 1883. The name comes from Latin meaning “maximum wellness” and that is certainly what they have created here. Current owner and winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet renovated the entire estate in 2003, expanding their cellars and creating a Wine Relais with seven elegant country-style suites, a pool, a private spa, and a restaurant serving dishes created from ingredients grown on the property. Visitors can enjoy a variety of tasting experiences from a vineyard walk to a picnic or e-bike tour.

TENUTA SANTA MARIA di Gaetano Bertani – www.tenutasantamaria.wine Tenuta Santa Maria, a historic estate dating to the 16th century in Arbizzano di Negrar, stands as one of Valpolicella’s most significant cultural and viticultural landmarks. Under the stewardship of brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani, who inherited the estate from their father, legendary winemaker Gaetano Bertani, the winery continues a centuries-old tradition of excellence.

The estate’s neoclassical complex, featuring a frescoed villa and monumental cellar, is recognized as a national monument. Tenuta Santa Maria combines historical significance with modern innovation. The Bertani brothers focus on indigenous varieties and sustainable practices, producing wines from both their Valpolicella estate and ventures in Soave’s Colognola ai Colli, as well as a high-altitude project in Valpantena. Their portfolio reflects both tradition and innovation, showcasing the diversity of Veneto’s terroir through wines that blend historical techniques with modern precision.

Filippo Magnani

The Institute of Masters of Wine Announce the Induction of Four New Members

The Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) has recently announced the induction of four new members into its membership. These newly appointed Masters of Wine (MWs) have successfully completed and surpassed all the rigorous stages of the Master of Wine examination.

Jit Hang Jackie Ang MW (Singapore), Amanda Barnes MW (Argentina), Sarah Benson MW (UK), and Kathleen Van den Berghe MW (Belgium) have now earned the prestigious ‘Master of Wine’ title and are the first cohort of the 2025 vintage of Masters of Wine.

There are now 425 active Masters of Wine based in 30 countries, spanning a wide range of areas in the wine industry and each making their own contribution to it. The Master of Wine credential is the most coveted in the wine industry and comes after proving one’s understanding of all aspects of wine by passing most rigorous examination in the wine world.

The MW exam consists of three parts: the theory and practical exams taken at the end of stage two and the research paper (RP) submitted at the end of stage three. The RP is an in-depth study on a wine related topic from any area of the sciences, arts, humanities or social sciences. Completion of the exam seeks to represent an all-encompassing knowledge of the industry, and only when an individual passes the RP do they become a Master of Wine.

All members must sign the IMW’s code of conduct before they have the right to use the title Master of Wine or the initials MW. By signing the code of conduct, MWs agree to act with honesty and integrity and to use every opportunity to share their understanding of wine with others, echoing the IMW’s mission to foster excellence, interaction and learning.

IMW Chair, Roderick Smith MW, states: “It is with the greatest pleasure and pride that I welcome into our membership these four new Masters of Wine. This is a herculean achievement and marks the most significant milestone on anyone’s career in wine. Our congratulations to all of them on their amazing success.”

IMW Executive Director, Julian Gore-Booth, further added: “We are delighted to welcome these four exceptional individuals to the IMW. Earning the MW title is a remarkable achievement, reflecting an unparalleled depth of knowledge, dedication and passion for wine. We look forward to their contributions to the Institute and to the global wine community as Masters of Wine.”

MEET THE NEW MASTERS OF WINE

Jit Hang Jackie Ang MW (Singapore)
Jackie Ang is a trained pharmaceutical scientist and a wine educator. He is born and based in Singapore and holds a DPhil in Medical Sciences from the University of Oxford and a MA in Pharmacology from the University of Cambridge. Jackie is currently the Director of Cherwell Wine and Spirits, a WSET APP based in Singapore and also heads the High Throughput Screening group at the Experimental Drug Development Centre, a national platform for drug discovery in Singapore. He has over 10 years of experience in holding wine events, masterclasses, teaching and wine judging. Jackie is most passionate and interested in uplifting standards in wine knowledge and service in Asia and acting as a bridge between producers and consumers from different cultures and backgrounds.

Research paper: Are Universal Glasses Truly Universal? — An investigation on whether glassware shape affects perceptions of red and white table wines made from international varieties.

Amanda Barnes MW (Argentina)
Amanda is an award-winning wine writer, presenter and consultant. Although born and raised in Hampshire, England, she has been based in South America since 2009 exploring and communicating about the people, wines and regions both on and off the beaten path.

She is considered a leading authority on the wines of the region and is author of The South America Wine Guide: The Definitive Guide to Wine in Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Brazil, Bolivia & Peru. Amanda is also key contributor for major UK and US wine publications and books and Regional Chair for Chile in the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Research paper: The future of South American Criolla — poised for revival, or demise to the point of no return?

Sarah Benson MW (UK – England)
With a background in languages, Sarah transitioned from a career in translation to the wine industry after completing several WSET courses. She began at Accolade and has since built extensive experience in wine buying and marketing across independent and large retail, as well as UK bottling. Her passion has led her to work vintages in multiple countries. Currently, Sarah buys wine for the Co-op, sourcing and blending wines from France, Spain, South America and Greece. She has conducted consumer profiling research with Lallemand and is committed to consumer engagement. A strong advocate for sustainability, she drives the Co-op’s ethical agenda and has supported wineries in obtaining Fair Trade certification. Sarah also judges on prestigious wine panels, mentors future industry professionals and travels extensively to deepen her expertise.

Research paper: An Analysis of the Cultural Perception and Interpretation of Wine Through the Work of Four Baroque Artists

Kathleen Van den Berghe MW (Belgium)
Born into a family of wine enthusiasts, Kathleen grew up with wine tastings and winery visits. After five years as a construction engineer and nine years at McKinsey & Company, she became a wine entrepreneur in 2010. She acquired and revitalized two Loire Valley estates: Château de Minière in Bourgueil (2010) and Château de Suronde in Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru (2016), producing high-quality organic and biodynamic wines. She has also developed wine tourism, an artist residence, and a contemporary art collection.

With studies in viticulture, winemaking, WSET and Master of Wine, she blends wine, engineering and entrepreneurship. Fluent in multiple languages, she lives in Belgium with her husband, children, and extensive library. She is particularly proud of her red sparkling Cabernet Franc.

Research paper: A comparative analysis of different techniques to reduce haloanisoles in contaminated wine.

Mallorca’s Wine Tourism: A Sustainable and Profitable Venture

Vi de la Terra Mallorca is establishing a new wine tourism route to illuminate the island’s distinct viticultural heritage. With over 80 wineries and 300 winegrowers, Mallorca is poised to showcase its rich history and diverse flavours.

The concept of a wine route has been deliberated for several years and is now moving forward spearheaded by Magdalena Mesquida, the president of the Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP).

It will be a collaboration between the Tourism Department and Vi de la Terra Mallorca and this partnership will be important, as wine tourism as a sustainable travel model with potential long-term benefits for the island.

Economic and Cultural Impact

The success of prior events like the Raïm Wine Fest has attracted a younger demographic and underscores the potential for integrating local pride with international allure. Wine tourism is envisioned as a powerful mechanism to engage both residents and visitors, facilitating a broader appreciation of Mallorca’s wines and augmenting the island’s economic vitality.

For further information, visit the Vi de la Terra Mallorca website at:  https://vtallorca.com/en/

WHO [Europe] highlights Nordic alcohol monopolies as a comprehensive model for reducing alcohol consumption and harm

The Nordic alcohol monopolies, stores that have the exclusive right to sell most alcoholic beverages in Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden and the Faroe Islands, have contributed to relatively low alcohol consumption and reduced alcohol-related harm in the Nordic countries. This is a part of the WHO European Region historically known for harmful drinking patterns and high levels of associated harm.

Alcohol consumption levels in the European Union (EU) have remained largely unchanged for over a decade, making it the subregion with the highest consumption levels globally. The EU is currently not on track to meet the global and regional reduction targets for alcohol consumption.

To address this, the public health community is looking at good practices across EU countries, where alcohol consumption has been decreasing or has been kept at low levels.

The new WHO/Europe report “Nordic alcohol monopolies: understanding their role in a comprehensive alcohol policy and public health significance” highlights a comprehensive model used in the Nordic countries that other EU countries could learn from.

A model for reducing harm

Unlike for-profit alcohol sales models, the Nordic approach (excluding mainland Denmark and Greenland) restricts alcohol availability and minimizes commercial influence by preventing grocery stores and private retailers from selling stronger alcoholic beverages.

State-owned monopolies – ÁTVR in Iceland (with Vínbúðin as the retail store for alcohol), Systembolaget in Sweden, Alko in Finland, Rúsdrekkasøla Landsins in the Faroe Islands, and Vinmonopolet in Norway – operate with a clear mission: to protect public health over profit.

With limits on outlet numbers and sale hours and days, strict enforcement of age controls, and no marketing or discount pricing, these monopolies emphasize managing alcohol as a product with inherent risks, rather than treating it as an ordinary consumer product.

“This public health-first approach in the management of alcohol retail sales in Nordic countries is a great demonstration of alcohol policies that work,” says Dr Carina Ferreira-Borges, Regional Adviser for Alcohol, Illicit Drugs and Prison Health at WHO/Europe.

“Countries with state-owned monopolies have lower per capita alcohol consumption compared to the EU average, and generally have lower rates of alcohol-attributable harms, which span from liver disease, cancers and cardiovascular conditions to injuries and drownings.”

Challenging pressures and threats

Despite the monopolies’ strong public support and proven health benefits, recent legislative initiatives in several Nordic countries signal a potential shift toward privatization of retail alcohol sales, which could undo decades of public health gains.

In Finland, for example, recent policy changes have allowed the sale of a large proportion of alcoholic beverages outside monopoly stores, and there is ongoing consultation on permitting home delivery of alcohol. Similarly, in Sweden, a new court case challenges the monopoly’s exclusive rights to online sales, while proposed laws would permit farm sales of alcoholic beverages.

“There is consistent evidence that the structure of the retail alcohol distribution system – in other words, how, when and where alcohol is sold – significantly affects alcohol sales,” adds Dr Ferreira-Borges. “Government monopolies on off-premises retail sales have been shown to reduce alcohol consumption while privatizing alcohol sales tends to increase consumption.”

Two significant real-world privatization events illustrate how allowing alcohol sales in grocery stores in the 1960s has historically resulted in increased consumption and associated problems in Finland and Sweden. These findings suggest that the Nordic monopolies’ strict regulation of alcohol availability and elimination of promotion and marketing at sales outlets, including online stores, are key features that contribute to reduced alcohol consumption at the population level in their respective countries.

“WHO/Europe emphasizes that expanding alcohol availability could reverse the positive public health indicators that Nordic countries have achieved over decades of controlled alcohol sales,” Dr Ferreira-Borges concludes.

A global best-practice model at risk

Nordic alcohol monopolies serve as models worldwide, showcasing the benefits of recognizing alcohol as a harmful product with considerable social, economic and health impacts that requires specific approaches to management.

They align closely with WHO’s 3 recommended best buys (affordable, feasible and cost-effective intervention strategies) for alcohol control: increasing taxes/raising prices, restricting availability and restricting advertising. These have consistently shown to be the most effective means of reducing alcohol-related harm on a broad scale.

Source: World Health Organization

Selecting the Perfect Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Champagne for Valentine’s Day

Celebrating Valentine’s Day with champagne is not only elegant but also gastronomically versatile. The effervescent nature of champagne enhances the dining experience by complementing a wide range of foods, from oysters and creamy cheeses to chocolates and fruity desserts. The acidity and bubbles of champagne also elevate the flavors, making it a suitable choice for many dishes.

The tradition of toasting with champagne on Valentine’s Day adds a touch of elegance and festivity, making the moment even more special and memorable. Cheers to love and happiness!

With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, selecting the perfect Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque champagne is essential for your special evening. Consider the unique qualities and pairing potential of each style to ensure an evening of refined delight.

Brief History of Belle Epoque

Belle Epoque means “Beautiful Era” in French and refers to a period of peace, prosperity, and cultural flourishing in France and Western Europe, roughly spanning from the late 19th century to the onset of World War I. It was a time of artistic, architectural, and intellectual advancements, characterized by lavish lifestyles and exquisite tastes. Perrier-Jouet, a prestigious champagne house founded in 1811, embraced this spirit of refinement and elegance in their Belle Epoque series. The collection, adorned with the iconic anemone flowers designed by Emile Gallé, an Art Nouveau master, pays homage to this golden age.

2013 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque – Fleur de Champagne Brut Rose Millesime

The 2013 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Brut Rose Millesime exemplifies sophistication and grace. This vintage is crafted from a harmonious blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, with a higher proportion of Pinot Noir imparting a delicate pink hue.

Tasting Notes: The nose is greeted with aromas of red berries, citrus, and floral undertones, hinting at the finesse within. On the palate, it offers a captivating balance of freshness and richness, with flavors of strawberries, raspberries, and a touch of spice. The finish is long and elegant, leaving a lingering impression.

Food Pairing for Valentine’s Day: This champagne is a perfect companion for a romantic Valentine’s Day dinner. It pairs beautifully with dishes such as lobster salad, roasted duck breast with a berry sauce, or a selection of fresh berries and cream for dessert.

2012 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque – Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime

The 2012 Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime is a pure expression of Chardonnay from the esteemed Côte des Blancs vineyards. Known for its exceptional purity and minerality, this vintage showcases the elegance of the terroir.

Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with white flowers, citrus, and a hint of brioche, reflecting its unique origins. On the palate, it is vibrant and crisp, with flavors of green apple, lemon zest, and a touch of almond. The finish is long and refreshing, embodying sophistication.

Food Pairing for Valentine’s Day: For a memorable Valentine’s Day, pair this champagne with oysters, seared scallops, or a delicate goat cheese salad. Its crispness complements the subtle flavors of seafood and light dishes.

2014 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque – Fleur de Champagne Millesime Brut

The 2014 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Millesime Brut is a testament to the house’s dedication to producing exceptional vintage champagnes. This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from the finest vineyards offers a luminous golden color with fine, persistent bubbles.

Tasting Notes: The bouquet reveals enticing notes of white flowers, ripe pear, and a hint of honey. On the palate, it is well-balanced with a creamy texture, presenting flavors of stone fruits, citrus, and a hint of spice. The finish is sophisticated and enduring.

Food Pairing for Valentine’s Day: This champagne’s versatility makes it an excellent choice for a Valentine’s Day feast. It pairs wonderfully with seafood dishes like poached salmon, creamy risotto, or a selection of aged cheeses.

Regardless of your choice among these three Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque champagnes, you are assured an evening that epitomizes elegance, romance, and memorable experiences!