Category: Wine Review

Wine Review: Drappier Carte d’Or Brut NV (37.5cl)

Champagne Drappier is one of my favourite Aube producers in many ways. I’m happy to say that I have personally met Andre, Michel, and Charline on numerous occasions, along with my son, daughter and daughter-in-law. This wonderful family all left warm and memorable impressions.

This dynamic independent house is currently run by the charmingly and hospitable 7th and 8th generations: father Michel, daughter Charline and sons Hugo and Antoine.

Drappier is based in Urville in the Côte des Bar comes has a wide range of rich lush full-flavoured cuvees and also make still wines.
Fact: Champagne Drappier was Charles de Gaulle’s favourite Champagne and Madame de Gaulle was a great friend of the Drappier family.

The house of Drappier is unusual in many ways: they are neither a Grands Marques house, nor a grower; they own 60 hectares, so they are technically both a domaine and negociant house. Drappier is also one of the most experimental in Aube. They often use no dosage, they are pioneering ‘sans soufre’ no sulphur fizz (sulphur sensitivity runs in the family) and focus on organic viticulture.

The cuvée Carte d’Or expresses the identity of the house directed by the family since 1808.

Tasting Notes:
The Drappier Carte d’Or expresses all the aromas of Pinot Noir; this constitutes at least 80% of the blend, along with Chardonnay 15 %, and Pinot Meunier 5 %.

This champagne has a great aromatic richness of melon, apple and red fruits. The palate is intense, with notes of apple, peaches and quince wrapped in a red-fruit veil. It’s full-bodied and long with a lovely texture, and complex mouthfeel.

91 Points

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Wine Review: Perrier-Jouët Cuvée Belle Époque Brut Champagne 2013

“You do not need to wait for a celebration to pop Champagne” – Liz Palmer

Perrier-Jouët released the 2013 vintage of its prestige cuvée, Belle Epoque mid 2021.

Blend
Made from a blend of 50% grand cru Chardonnay, 45% grand cru Pinot Noir and 5% Meunier, the 2013 vintage embodies the delicate floral style that has come to define the house.

2013 Weather
2013 was a cool year, with late flowering in July pushing back the start of the harvest to September 30. It was a particularly good year for Chardonnay.

Severine Frerson, Perrier-Jouët’s first female cellar master describes the Champagne as “pale gold in colour, with subtle glints of apple green”, and notes of “ripe pear, grapefruit zest, ginger, tangerine and a hint of green pepper”.

“Lime blossom expresses the character, personality and texture of the 2013 vintage”, she said, adding that the fizz has a “delicate salinity” to it.

Serving and Pairing
Perrier-Jouët recommends serving the Champagne at 12°C and enjoying it as an apéritif or paired with the likes of Dover sole and grilled turbot.

Bottle Design
Features its distinctive “anemone” flower motif, the Belle Epoque bottle design was created in 1902 by Emile Gallé, a prominent player in the Art Nouveau movement.

Founded in 1811 in Epernay, Perrier-Jouët is known for its elegant, floral Champagnes that celebrate the delicacy of Chardonnay. The house owns 65 hectares of vineyards, including 55ha of grand cru sites. Its prestige cuvée, Belle Epoque, launched in 1969 at Maxim’s in Paris with the 1964 vintage. The debut vintage of Belle Epoque was practically a blanc de blancs, composed of 90% Chardonnay.

Tasting Notes
Pale gold, clear and luminous with aromas of ripe, juicy pear, hints of citrus and green pepper; a subtle salinity; generous, lively attack with a lush, creamy texture; beautiful floral notes of blossoms, complemented with pear, mandarin, and some grapefruit zest through to a long, expansive finish.

94 points

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Tasting Notes: Pellegrino Cavallina Grillo/Pinot Grigio 2020 and Centopassi “Giato” Nero d’Avola – Perricone – 2020

These are wines for contemplating – after tasting these two wines from Sicily they helped me focus on my New Year’s goals…..

Pellegrino Cavallina Grillo/Pinot Grigio 2020
This medium body wine has a surprisingly, pleasingly smooth texture, is a blend of Pinot Grigio and Grillo, is well-balanced, there are notes of green apples, pears, melons, and hints of light floral, a little vegetal on the palate with a soft finish.

90 points

Centopassi “Giato” Nero d’Avola – Perricone – 2020

This delicious “unoaked” Sicilian red is made from the native grapes of Nero d’Avola and Perricone, it’s fresh and lively on the palate with red berry fruits wrapped up in luscious acidity.

91 points

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Alto Adige – An Exciting Mosaic of Grapes, People, and Territories to Explore – Filippo Magnani

The Third Edition of Consorzio Alto Adige’s “Wine Summit” was about a magical territory between the Dolomites, its people and their great challenge of the mountain…


The Wine Summit is an extraordinary event that, through the masterful organization of “Consorzio Alto Adige Wines”, recants the stories and souls behind the bottles of wines from this magnificent land.

Alto Adige is a jubilation of diversity, and its “contrasts” are the main theme of the occasion. For the third consecutive year, the consortium succeeded in bringing enthusiasts and professionals closer to this wonderful and extreme territory nestled in the mountains. This year, a total of 80 producers presented around 260 wines. Even if it is a small portion compared to the entire wine production of the region, the “Consorzio Vini Alto Adige” was able to give, once again, a clear idea of the enormous potential of the Alto Adige territory.

Days spent in close contact with producers that keep up their precious traditions and combined them with innovations. A unique experience among old vintages, vertical tastings combined with culinary experiences inside ancient castles. A mix of stories and tales told directly from those who heroically, every day, take care of this absolutely incredible place.

Alto Adige – a wine territory wedged between glacial valleys

Alto Adige is one of the smallest wine-growing areas in Italy which, with its 5600 hectares (13.137 Acres), is one of the wildest and most fascinating wine-growing areas in the country.

It is the northernmost wine area of the boot. One of the main and historically coveted access gates by land to Italy located at the border with Austria, this territory is an extreme land, a cradle of cultures and certainly a precious testimony of the incredible biodiversity that characterizes the Italian regions.

The theme of ‘contrast’ at the Wine Summit Event 2021, perfectly sums up the soul of this territory. The hectares of vineyards are distributed in a Y-shaped territory at an altitude ranging from 200 metres (650 feet) above sea level up to a maximum of 1000 metres (3,300 feet). An infinite variety of morphologies, microclimates, and landscapes coexist in this area.

The great diversity of soil, climate, and the imperviousness of the vineyard’s location, with a vast range of elevations, make this Alto Adige a fascinating and continuous challenge between nature and the wine producers. The potentials are endless, and it is interesting to understand how each of them interprets the terroir.

The Alps act as a shield against the cold currents that come from Northern Europe; the region is then open to the south allowing the gentle Mediterranean currents to create a balanced microclimate. The air flows through the vineyards providing not only mild temperatures and substantial rain but also a dry climate. These conditions are particularly suited for the production of authentic wines, rich in character and unique in their peculiarities.

The climate ranges from alpine conditions, fresh and characterized by important thermal excursions, such as the Valle Isarco and the Val Venosta; to sun-kissed valleys, milder Mediterranean climates influenced by the presence of the Lakes, such as the Bolzano area, the Oltradige and the lower Atesina.

A platform for a wide range of grape varieties

Despite the small dimension of the wine growing area of the Alto Adige, the possibilities in the selection of the vine’s variety are endless. The biodiversity allows the cultivation of a unique range of indigenous and international grape varieties. Here, the attention to details is fundamental; there are about 150 different types of rock, the composition of the soil changes within a few metres, it is a rich land that requires meticulous attention.

The last decades have marked a change in the level of wine production. In the past, this territory was mainly linked to two native vines: Schiava and Lagrain (two red varieties), nowadays in Alto Adige about 20 different varieties are cultivated. The air of change has been well received by the “altoatesini” winemakers, who, with conviction and passion, have changed the way of conceiving wine as a finished product, maintaining a strong link with the past. The Schiava, is still the second most used grape variety but today the production is divided into 64% production of white wines and 36% of red wines. Tradition and innovation combined to illuminate a territory that is difficult to explain just with words. In 1971 the DOC mark was introduced and today more than 98% of the viticultural surface has this certification. Today this is a land of varieties such as Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sylvaner, Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Schiava, Pinot Noir and Lagrein. They are recognized for great white wines, but also for red and sparkling wines. Elegant production characterized by exuberant freshness and important acidity is the key factor for the longevity of the wines.

Seven distinct growing sub-regions in Alto Adige linked to wine grape varieties

–  Alto Adige Valle dell’Isarco (Eisaktal): It is about 80km long, it is a valley entirely crossed by the river of the same name. Mountain wines, elegant and bold. A production focused on white wines. The vines permitted by the regulations are Sylvaner, Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Muller Thurgau, Kerner, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling

–  Alto Adige Santa Maddalena: It is an area located north of Bolzano, it is a land dedicated to the Schiava, a historic native grape variety. The wines from the vineyards of the Villages of Santa Maddalena may be Labelled as “Classico – Klassisch”

–  Alto Adige Terlano: It is an area of white wines. The two main varieties are Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, which by regulation must compose at least 50% of the blend

–  Alto Adige Meranese: Production area of Schiava, the regulation allows the addition of a maximum of 15% of complementary grapes. This sub-zone is located around the town of Merano.

– Alto Adige Val Venosta: This DOC is located to the north-east of the region, it allows the production of wines based on Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Muller Thurgau, Riesling, Kerner, Sauvignon blanc, Gewurztraminer, Schiava, and Pinot Noir, with the obligation to indicate on the label the varieties used in the blend.

– Alto Adige Colli di Bolzano: This DOC is dedicated to Schiava, the production area surrounds the DOC Santa Maddalena

–  Alto Adige Lake Kaltern (Lake Kaltern):   it is the largest natural lake in Alto Adige, and has a great influence on the wine products from this area. This breath-taking place is the home of Schiava. The wine produced in this area is labelled as “classico-klassisch” and the designation “Alto Adige” may be used.  The DOC includes the villages of: Caldaro, Appiano, Termeno, Cortaccia, Vadena, Egna, Montagna, Ora and Branzollo. High quality wines are sometimes marked with “Superiore”.

The heterogeneous features of the territory are combined with those of culture. Excellences coming from ancient traditions and the hard work of 5000 winegrowers. It is a territory united by the great love for the land, the wines produced come from private estates, micro wineries, and cooperatives. These cooperatives are aggregations of small producers who deliver their grapes each year. Even if these “cantine sociali” used to be linked to massive productions, it is important to underline that these big entities, in the last decades, have always aimed for great objectives, trying to speak for their land and reaching results of great quality. Alto Adige Doc is the smallest appellation in Italy, but probably one of the most complex. The necessity to transmit a better knowledge of this hidden territory, has oriented the Consortium towards a more detailed zonation and soil mapping to enhance the characteristics of each individual area. The officiality of the new zonation is still waiting for confirmation. However, it could be an important step for this wine district that would mark the path to follow in the future.

Exploring Alto Adige, beyond the borders of wine

Alto Adige is an extreme and adrenaline-filled territory. A land made fascinating by the great balance of its contrasts. Nature is the master of this place, a painting with breath-taking views: white peaks, imposing mountain walls of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site that rises up to more than 3,000m, forests, lakes, gentle green valleys and a unique play of light and shadow that is difficult to describe in a just a few lines. Alto Adige offers a wide range of travel experiences, unique for their visitors, to explore the world of wine. Mixing the greatest treats from the cellars with cuisine, sports, wellness, nature. Activities that turn the wine vacation both of wine connoisseurs and wine enthusiasts, into an unforgettable souvenir. Wine here is not just an experience linked exclusively to luxury. The history and culture of Alto Adige are deeply linked to rural traditions, men or rather “heroes” who have dedicated their lives to their precious land. It is a perfect destination for those who love less frenetic rhythms. You can spend days in the open air, between charming paths or ski slopes; walk through the different Weinberg (German word used for the vineyards, literally means “wine mountain”) and stay in authentic accommodation or participate in culinary experiences and tastings in the wineries also known as “Schloss”, the German word for “castle”. The variety of nature in Alto Adige/South Tyrol is combined with that of culture. The towns were coloured by many men of different cultures, Italians, Germans, and Latins. In this place of the thousand shades to discover, there is something that is never missing: Harmony. In South Tyrol you will leave a small piece of your heart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bolgheri, a wine territory in the pursuit of excellence – Filippo Magnani

The first edition of “Bolgheri Divino” celebrates a unique and cohesive vision of the producers…. 

On September 4th, 2021, the Consortium of Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC gathered 65 vintners of the DOC to tell their story of the land and its winemaking excellence, through personalities and productions. The event was named “Bolgheri DiVino.” It was a magical day to celebrate an extraordinary and cohesive wine territory in the pursuit of excellence. The first edition aims to become a must-attend occasion for dedicated oenophiles from all over the world who love this wine pearl on the Tuscan coast: Bolgheri.

The day began with an exclusive tasting held at Castello Della Gherardesca, in the morning, in Castagneto Carducci where I took part with other selected Italian and international journalists of the wine sector. The morning was dedicated to the preview of Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2019 vintage. A unique occasion since the tasting anticipates nearly 4 months to its release on the market.

The wines of 2019 generally showed deep colour, ripe fruit, with good aromatic intensity. An appropriate level of natural acidity guaranteed freshness and good fragrance. Apart from certain cases, where I perceived generous, firm tannins also due to the young fullness, the majority of wines I tasted were graceful, well-made with harmony from start to finish.

In the afternoon, we participated in a further tasting at 7 selected wineries where we had the chance to taste the promising 2020 vintage of Bolgheri Rosso. As I tasted the wines, I noticed they were fruity with a good structure and with lively acidity, while showing great potential for aging.

Like those overwhelming love stories, Bolgheri is the result of the harmonious relationship between an extraordinary land and the genius of man. A “little Italian miracle”, said the President of the Consortium Albiera Antinori in the closing evening of Bolgheri DiVino, in front of nearly 1,000 international guests seated for a beautiful dinner at a 1 km-long table on the iconic “Viale dei Cipressi”, a landmark of the Bolgheri landscape.

The event has shown the world that Bolgheri has climbed the “Olympus of Italian wines” in just a few decades. Its land has always been a sitting gold mine for the potential of the agricultural district. This territory, in its fairy tale appearance, is a wonderful symbol of the “Italian Bel Paese”. 

A small pearl embraced by the “Macchia Mediterranea”

The area of the DOC Bolgheri is delimited by the municipality boundaries of Castagneto Carducci village. It is a small wine area that measures 13km from the southernmost point to the northernmost one, while the west-east extension is about 7km. The total vineyards are of DOC are 1359 hectares, positioned at an altitude ranging from 10 metres to 380 above sea level. The so-called “Macchia Mediterranea” stretches all along the coast, Bolgheri is literally embraced by this thick dark green forest.

The amphitheatre of Bolgheri is exposed to perpetual light and aerated by continuous sea winds from the Tuscan archipelago. Exposure and natural aeration, in addition to preventing many plant diseases, gives the wine an exuberant freshness and incredible elegance. However, most fascinating is the extraordinary and varied type of soils. A miscellaneous of soils composition; mainly sandy towards the sea, more clay-sandy alluvial, clay-silty in the vineyards located on the foothills, and gravellier in the hills belonging to Colline Metallifere (metallic hills). To better understand the richness of the soils for wine production, the Consorzio has conducted an accurate zonation research, a ten-year study on the potential of this territory. Up to now 27 units have been identified, not grouped into macro areas though because in a few metres the composition of the soil can change incredibly. 

A “chair at the table of the prime Italian wines”
earned in just a few decades

 

Between the hundred-year-old stories of the famous Tuscan wine areas, well known and affirmed in the wine world scene, a place is reserved for the “young” Bolgheri district. The first red was produced around the 1940s, by the brilliant intuition of Marquis Mario Incisa of Rocchetta, founder of the estate Tenuta San Guido to plant red French varieties in the hills. Particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. The first real success production comes indeed from a blend of these two varieties, and first labelled as Sassicaia in 1968, and lately proclaimed as one the best wines of the world with the 1985 vintage.

After an initial period of white and rosè wine production for local consumption (regulation of 1983), the path tracked by Tenuta San Guido and its Sassicaia was followed by a small group of pioneer producers that invested and interpreted the possibility of producing fine red wines in this area.

From the second half of 1980’s Bolgheri became an area extremely vocated to the production of red wines. Rapidly those wines were recognized worldwide as so, called “Super Tuscan” by famous wine writers, showing off not only the outstanding potential of the land but also the commitment of the estates in pursuing the brilliant intuition of this group of winemaker pioneers.

The cohesive effort of the producers led in 1994 to the first DOC Bolgheri red wines regulation, together with the creation of Sassicaia subzone delimited by the proprieties of the Tenuta San Guido. In the last 25 years the endeavours to look for quality with no compromise has made Bolgheri a symbol of Tuscan wine excellence.

Another significant moment in the strengthening of Bolgheri wines among the world of premium wines was the recognition of the Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia in 2013, conferring its own appellation. A remarkable occurrence since Bolgheri Sassicaia is the first and only Italian denomination dedicated solely to an estate and its cult wine.

Land of Innovation.

In Bolgheri, wine production has always innovated and is still continually developing with a common vision of the pioneer producers. Following this trend, an update of the wine regulation has been approved by the Consorzio Doc Bolgheri and will be effective soon. The first modification is related to the base ampelographic of Bolgheri DOC white:

The first modification is related to the base ampelographic of Bolgheri DOC white, which will give more space to the productions of Viogner, Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino (already widespread).

The second intervention on the specification concerns the labelling. In particular for all DOC Bolgheri wines, it is mandatory to have the word “TOSCANA” on the back of the label. It will then be up to the producers to include the word “TOSCANA” on the front-label as well. Today in Bolgheri there are three types of DOC red wines: DOC Bolgheri Rosso, DOC Bolgheri Rosso Superione, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia and three additional Doc, one for Doc Rosato (rosè) and two Doc Bianco (white)

DOC Bolgheri red wines are a blend or monovarietal produced with Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc and Merlot. Often the blends include Syrah, a small percentage of Petit Verdot and in certain occasions Sangiovese.

An iconic wine destination with unique charm

In the last 20 years, in this area of the shore that I proudly call home, I personally witnessed the incredible evolution of high-end wine tourism. International wine travellers, thrilled for Tuscany and its beauty, are nowadays considering it a “MUST” to visit the cellars of Bolgheri, and to taste the fine wines of those producers. The wind of sudden success of Bolgheri wines has also marked a significant development and attitude to the organized hospitality at the estates. When I began my activity in the early ‘90s in Bolgheri just a few estates were open and ready to welcome visitors. Today, almost all the cellars have opened their doors to wine enthusiasts and wine professionals. A unique range of hospitality proposals at the estates, offered by small familiar properties and legendary wineries.

The diversification of the wineries, both in their own stories and their production, under the libertarian philosophy of the DOC cited above, permit the interpreters to tell their very personal interaction with the environment.

The word “diversity” is important, starting from the natural factor. Bolgheri is a territory that knows how to touch all the sensory spheres, perfumes, flavours, charming hamlets in perfect harmony with the landscape and, most certainly, land of great wines. From the gentle hills, in a matter of a few kilometres the land gets lost in a beautiful natural sea reserve.

“Diversity” in the cuisine; it is ideal to enjoy different styles, from family and traditional cookery to gourmet, from dishes based on meat and vegetables in the countryside, to other locations to enjoy a fresh fish menu by the sea. The countryside around Bolgheri’s town walls is overwatched by other ancient, hilltop villages. Where Village life is livened up by artisan boutiques, open-air markets, taverns, and cosy accommodation where travellers can still closely appreciate the authentic tranquil Tuscan lifestyle.

We’ve been talking a lot about Bolgheri and its extraordinary terroir, but I find the human factor is of extreme importance If Bolgheri has been included today among the hall of fame of the Italian wine destination it is thanks to the outstanding production of each producer, but also by the new strategic vision of the Consorzio Doc and its Presidency who always considered quality wine tourism as a fundamental aspect in social and territorial development.

That’s Bolgheri and its wine!

 

 

WSET, a valuable partner for Bolgheri 

I’d like to proudly underline that the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini DOC Bolgheri e DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia has recently become the first-ever Italian appellation WSET Corporate Patron. I am sure this collaboration will bring a great value in terms of education and qualifications to inspire and empower all the actors of the Bolgheri wine territory.

 

#WSET #BolgheriSassicaia #Bolgheri #Sassicaia #winetourism #italy #italianwinelovers #BolgheriDivino #bolgheriwine #bolgheridoc #bolgherisassicaiadoc #Sassicaia #consorziovinibolgheri #Toscana #vino #wine #sommelier #winelovers #instawine #redwine #wineeven

@CBolgheri