Wine Science Archives

Adapting Terroir to a Changing Climate: An Overview of Chablis’ 2025 Vineyard Regulation Reforms

The 2025 regulatory revisions for the Chablis appellation represent a strategically calibrated response to accelerating climatic pressures. The adjustments—ranging from reduced vine density to higher authorized yields are intended to reinforce vineyard resilience without compromising the appellation’s stylistic integrity. These changes, outlined by The Drinks Business and corroborated through EUR-Lex, signal a regional shift toward adaptive viticultural governance.

The most consequential reform concerns vine density, which has been lowered from 8,000 to 5,500 vines per hectare. This reduction widens row spacing and improves accessibility for mechanization, particularly on slopes where labour constraints and erosion pressures intersect. Expanded spacing norms, averaging up to 1.20 metres, and reaching 1.60 metres on steeper gradients, provide growers with enhanced flexibility. In irregular blocks, spacing may now extend to 2 metres, acknowledging the topographic complexity of the Chablis landscape.

Revisions to yield thresholds similarly reflect an attempt to stabilize production under increasingly erratic weather. New maximum yields now reach 75 hl/ha for standard Chablis (previously 70 hl/ha) and 73 hl/ha for Premier Cru (up from 68 hl/ha). These adjustments offer producers a buffer against frost events, hail episodes, and challenging ripening conditions—phenomena that have become emblematic of recent vintages.

Changes to trellising requirements deepen the focus on canopy management. A minimum foliage height equal to 0.6 times the row spacing is now mandated, supported by structured trellising systems. This emphasizes balanced vegetative growth, improved light interception, and better control of disease pressure; central pillars of contemporary cool-climate viticulture.

These reforms operate alongside long-standing regulations that continue to define the Chablis identity. Chardonnay remains the sole authorized variety, while the hierarchical appellation system, Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru, maintains its established parameters. Minimum alcohol levels (9.5% for Chablis, 10.5% for Premier Cru, and 11% for Grand Cru) remain unchanged, preserving the sensory and structural benchmarks of the region. The geological foundation of Chablis, its Kimmeridgian limestone soils, continues to be recognized as the primary determinant of minerality. Traditional protective practices persist, now complemented by an increasing emphasis on sustainable farming.

Together, these updates depict a region actively reconciling heritage with necessity. Chablis is preserving its historical identity while embracing adaptive strategies capable of sustaining quality and viability in an era defined by climatic volatility. The 2025 framework stands as a model of regulatory evolution rooted in both tradition and foresight, an approach many wine regions are now compelled to consider as environmental uncertainty intensifies.

OIV reveals growing role of re-export hubs in global wine trade

A new report from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) shows how re-exportation has become a structural force in the global wine market, shaping trade flows and value creation across continents.

Re-exportation reshaping global wine trade

The OIV’s latest Statistical Thematic Focus 2025, titled “The Global Trade in Wine: Role and Relevance of Re-exportation Hubs”, offers the first comprehensive estimate of global wine re-exports. It finds that re-exportation now represents a key driver in how wines reach new markets and consumers.

What is wine re-exportation?

Traditional wine-producing and exporting countries are typically located around the 40th parallel in both hemispheres. However, some nations export substantial quantities of wine despite producing little to none. This suggests that their wine exports originate from previously imported wine – a practice known as re-exporting.

According to the OECD glossary of statistical terms, “re-exports consist of foreign goods exported in the same state as previously imported, from the free circulation area, premises for inward processing or industrial free zones, directly to the rest of the world and from premises for customs warehousing or commercial free zones, to the rest of the world.”

Between 2018 and 2023, re-exports accounted for around 13% of total wine exports – equivalent to 14 million hectolitres valued at €4.6 billion. The report highlights how this activity supports market access and value creation beyond production, through logistics, bottling, storage and redistribution.

According to the OIV, the global wine trade now represents 47% of world consumption. Traditional European trading centres such as the United Kingdom continue to serve as major redistribution platforms, while new high-value gateways like Singapore have emerged in Asia. The report also points to Canada and Angola as rising regional connectors that are helping to diversify global trade routes.

“Re-exportation reveals the real geography of wine flows,” the OIV notes, “distinguishing between where wines are produced, traded and consumed.”

Global exports show steady long-term growth

Wine exports have grown steadily over the past two decades, with the share of exported wine in total global consumption rising from 5% in 1960 to nearly half by 2024. Since 2000, exports have increased by 4% per year in value, though volume growth has slowed to 2%.

In 2024, non-sparkling bottled wines made up two-thirds of total export value (€24 billion) and just over half of global export volume. Sparkling wines, which account for only 11% of volume, contributed almost a quarter of total value, reflecting their higher average prices. Bulk wines comprised nearly one-third of export volume but only 7% of total value.

Sparkling wines have shown the fastest growth since 2017, with value up 4.8% per year and volume up 3%. Non-sparkling bottled wines have shifted towards premiumisation, with value increasing 3.8% per year between 2009 and 2024 despite flat volumes.

The top three exporters – Italy, Spain and France – together represent 55% of global export volume. The ten largest exporting countries account for 85% of exports, underlining the sector’s high concentration.

A more complex, interconnected market

The OIV concludes that re-exportation has become a “structural element” of the global wine economy, shaping not only how wine moves but how it creates value. As trade routes evolve and new hubs emerge, understanding these flows will be critical for anticipating demand, improving transparency and strengthening market resilience.

The full report, “The Global Trade in Wine: Role and Relevance of Re-exportation Hubs”, is available on the OIV website: www.oiv.int.

Sources: OIV and The Drinks Business

The International Wine Academy’s Historic Appeal to the United Nations

Wine has long transcended its role as a simple beverage, serving instead as a living testament to humanity’s cultural, social, and agricultural heritage. Across civilizations, from the vineyards of Mesopotamia to the cellars of Burgundy and the valleys of Mendoza, wine has symbolized conviviality, peace, and continuity. Today, this millennia-old legacy faces an unprecedented challenge. For the first time in its history, the Académie Internationale du Vin (AIV), a body uniting nearly 100 eminent wine voices from 20 nations, has spoken publicly and unanimously to defend wine against the threat of “denormalization” proposed in global health discourse. Their Appeal below, addressed to the heads of state gathering for the 80th United Nations General Assembly, underscores the profound stakes of reducing wine to a mere health risk: the erosion of culture, heritage, and a universal language of humanity:

APPEAL BY THE INTERNATIONAL WINE ACADEMY TO HEADS OF STATE AND GOVERNMENT ATTENDING THE UNITED NATIONS 80TH ANNIVERSARY GENERAL ASSEMBLY IN NEW YORK

Ladies & Gentlemen, Heads of State and Government, On September 25th, at the 4ᵗʰ United Nations High-Level Meeting on the prevention and control of noncommunicable diseases and the promotion of mental health and well-being, you will be faced with a challenging brief: how can we prevent and control noncommunicable diseases without denying the foundations of our cultures, without erasing what makes our civilization thrive? Wine is at the heart of this question. Too often, it is reduced to a molecule of alcohol. Too simplistically, it is compared to a drug. But too rarely do we think about what it embodies. The International Wine Academy, whose members come from 20 different countries, wishes to alert you against the danger of reducing wine to a mere health risk, thereby forgetting its cultural, social and human dimension. Here is what is at stake. TO DENORMALISE WINE WOULD DESTROY A HERITAGE – A LEGACY OF HUMANITY Wine embodies eight millennia of human history: it is a catalyst for conviviality, joy and sharing; a connection to the land and its landscapes; a universal language linking people – from Georgia to Ancient Greece, from Oregon to Tuscany, from France to New Zealand. Unique yet global, it expresses mankind’s patience before time, humility before the earth, and the desire to celebrate together. Offering a glass of wine is a gesture that expresses peace, friendship, brotherhood, and the joy of being together. Enjoying wine moderately is to defend the culture of taste and restraint, and perpetuate a bond that unites continents, people and generations. It is about appreciating rather than abusing, tasting rather than drinking. It is about approaching health through social and family ties, mental well-being and the joy of life – for the link between happiness and health is undeniable. TO DENORMALISE WINE WOULD DENY ITS BENEFITS AND CLOSE SCIENTIFIC DEBATE PREMATURELY A recent NASEM report (National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine, USA) concluded that “compared to no alcohol consumption, moderate consumption is associated with lower all-cause mortality.” We do not claim to settle the scientific debate, but, like many experts, we regret the absence of a large-scale randomized trial, the only viable protocol to ground conclusions on certified evidence rather than insufficient observational data. TO DENORMALISE WINE IS TO CHOOSE PROHIBITION OVER EDUCATION AND FREEDOM We are fully aware of the dangers of excess. We recognize the need to prevent addiction, protect the most vulnerable, and combat abuse. We embrace this responsibility, for it is through education that consumers learn to taste, compare and appreciate wine with moderation – becoming ambassadors of balance. Through education, we believe we can both protect individual freedom to enjoy wine without abuse and promote responsibility and control. Wine thus expresses its truth through the transmission of knowledge, and know-how, and teaching moderation. For these reasons, Ladies & Gentlemen, Heads of States and Governments, we call upon you to act in a balanced and nuanced manner: combat excesses but recognize the value of moderation; prevent risks but preserve mankind’s bond with the earth; protect public health but respect the richness of cultures and the strength of traditions. Preserving wine means defending a civilization, a way of life, a living universal heritage, a part of humanity that has been passed down from generation to generation for thousands of years. On behalf of the International Wine Academy Guillaume d’Angerville, President & Véronique Sanders, Chancellor Lausanne, September 2025 www.academievin.org

The AIV’s open letter is not a denial of the need for public health vigilance, but rather a plea for balance, perspective, and nuance. To strip wine of its rightful place in society is to dismiss its contributions to culture, social well-being, and even responsible lifestyle practices rooted in moderation. At stake is more than a product: it is the survival of a heritage that binds generations, nations, and traditions. By defending wine, world leaders defend the principle that humanity’s greatest legacies should be preserved, not erased. The decision now before the United Nations is not solely about health policy; it is about safeguarding civilization’s enduring bond with the earth, with each other, and with the joy of shared experience.

Liz Palmer

EU Authorizes Three New Grape Varieties: Calardis Blanc, Magdeleine Noir, and Négret de la Canourgue

The French Minister of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty submitted a formal request to the European Union to update the Official Catalogue of Species and Varieties of Plants Cultivated in France. At the culmination of this process, three grape varieties, Calardis Blanc (white), Magdeleine Noir, and Négret de la Canourgue (both red) have now received official authorization.

Calardis Blanc, a hybrid derivative of Calardis Musqué and Seyve Villard 39‑639 developed by the Julius Kühn Institute (Geilweilerhof, Germany), is notable for its resistance to powdery mildew, downy mildew, and black rot. Previously approved since 2020 in Germany’s Rhineland‑Palatinate, it is now cleared for cultivation across France, where it is expected to yield wines with rich aromatic complexity, exotic fruit profiles, and pronounced acidity, traits favourable for sparkling wine production.

Magdeleine Noir, also referred to as ‘Black Magdeleine’, originated in Brittany and has been identified in the Charentes. It is genetically linked to Merlot and is described as a balanced cultivar of considerable complexity.

Négret de la Canourgue, hailing from the Tarn Valley, is characterized by vigorous growth, strong yields, late ripening, and a pale colour, qualities that render it especially suitable for lightweight rosé wine production.

This regulatory decision aligns with broader EU and national strategies to modernize and diversify viticultural production. As of late 2024, France had authorized 357 grape varieties for wine production and labelling, compared with roughly 700 in Italy, 260 in Spain, and 343 in Portugal. Meanwhile, Germany had approximately 465 permissible varieties, and Greece around 206.

The Rise of Hybrid and Resilient Varieties

Amid mounting climate-related pressures on traditional viticulture, hybrid grape varieties are gaining prominence. A study published in Nature Reviews Earth and Environment cautions that up to 70% of current winemaking regions may become unsuitable under continued average temperature increases. Hybrids like Calardis Blanc are championed for their disease resistance, reduced cultivation costs, and adaptability to extreme climate events, alongside their capacity to deliver higher yields with less intensive input demands.

Champagne Telmont Debuts the World’s First Ultra-Lightweight Standard Champagne Bottle

This Earth Day, Champagne Telmont introduced the world’s first ultra-lightweight standard champagne bottle to the U.S. market. Weighing 800 grams (1.76 pounds), this bottle’s debut with Champagne Telmont’s Réserve Brut marks a major milestone in sustainable winemaking, reducing carbon emissions by 4% per bottle and challenging long-held industry conventions.

Bottle manufacturing accounts for nearly 30% of Champagne’s carbon footprint. For over two decades, the standard bottle weight remained unchanged at 835 grams, with lighter alternatives dismissed as unviable due to the pressure requirements of champagne-making. But Telmont, driven by its In the Name of Mother Nature mission, challenged industry norms. After years of rigorous research and testing, the Maison vetted an eco-conscious bottle without compromising strength or elegance.

Developed in partnership with French glassmaker Verallia, Telmont co-developed a significantly lighter bottle while maintaining Champagne’s essential pressure resistance and refined aesthetic. This innovation requires no modifications to production processes or existing manufacturing equipment, ensuring seamless adoption across the industry.

“Creativity and innovation must go hand in hand with responsibility. By adopting this ultra–lightweight bottle, we aim to redefine industry standards and contribute to a more sustainable future for Champagne,” says Ludovic du Plessis, President of Champagne Telmont. “We aim with this new bottle to set a new standard for Champagne, in the name of Mother Nature.”

Telmont’s innovation could eliminate 8,000 tons of CO2 emissions annually if adopted industry-wide. This innovation is not subject to any exclusivity, ensuring that it benefits as many people as possible. There are no barriers to its immediate and widespread adoption across the entire Champagne region as a new standard for the appellation.

Telmont began producing the 800g bottles in 2022 with an initial run of 3,000 bottles. Following the required three-year aging process, these bottles are now arriving in the U.S. market. In 2023, production scaled to 30,000 bottles, followed by 220,000 bottles in 2024 and from 2025 on 100% of Telmont bottles will be produced at this new, lighter weight.

Champagne Telmont’s Réserve Brut will be rolling out in the 800-gram bottle through select in-person retailers and on Champagne Telmont’s website (HERE) for an SRP of $76.