Wine Tourism Archives

The Twelve Pievi: How Tuscany’s Historic Wine Region Is Redefining Excellence After Three Decades

In the heart of Tuscany, where time moves at its own leisurely pace, the historic town of Montepulciano celebrates a remarkable milestone in 2025. While thirty-one years may seem minor against the backdrop of a town preserved since the 16th century, the evolution of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano during this period tells a story of extraordinary growth and transformation. Since establishing the Anteprima event in 1994 to showcase market-ready vintages, the Consortium has seen production volumes and membership nearly double. The 31st edition of the Preview returns to honor its rich heritage while embracing the future, continuing the legacy of an appellation with winemaking traditions dating back to Etruscan times.

The Renaissance of Traditional Terroir
The custodians of Montepulciano’s viticultural heritage have achieved a masterful balance between innovation and tradition, preserving the essence of their craft while adapting to modern challenges. Their meticulous stewardship extends beyond the vineyards to the entire ecosystem—landscapes, architecture, and cultural practices are carefully maintained as living tributes to ancestral accomplishments.

The 2025 market debut of the prestigious Pieve classification marks the culmination of years of dedicated research and development. Following the Consortium’s approval in 2023 and the Italian National Wine Committee’s final endorsement on October 10, 2024, these exceptional wines have reached shelves with the publication of regulations in the February 5, 2025 Official Journal. The 2021 vintage—the first to carry the distinguished Pieve designation—exemplifies the region’s commitment to geographical authenticity and production excellence.

These twelve Additional Geographic Units (UGAs) honor ancient parish divisions that date back to the Roman and Lombard eras, creating a direct connection between contemporary winemaking and historical territorial organization. Only wines produced with at least 85% Sangiovese grapes grown and bottled by the same estate within a specific Pieve boundary may bear this prestigious label. Quality control remains paramount, with the Consortium establishing an internal commission of technical experts to ensure compliance with rigorous specifications before certification.

Industry professionals surveyed by Nomisma project retail prices for these premium offerings to range between 40-70 euros, with exceptional bottles commanding 70-100+ euros. The market acknowledges the unique value proposition, with respondents emphasizing Montepulciano’s “strong identity and tradition,” “superior quality,” and the “prestige of the brand” as key differentiators. Wine enthusiasts now can explore these distinctive terroirs through comparison tastings, enhanced by the Consortium’s innovative ’12 Pievi’ web series documenting the unique characteristics of each historical parish zone.

Montepulciano’s forward-looking approach extends beyond geographical classification to embrace sustainability initiatives. As the first Italian denomination to receive Equalitas certification in May 2022, the region upholds strict environmental standards by measuring carbon and water footprints while promoting socio-economic equity. A sophisticated network of 50 meteorological stations provides critical data for ongoing climate adaptation strategies.

Where History and Viticulture Converge
Nestled on limestone hills that divide the Val di Chiana from Val d’Orcia, Montepulciano stands as a living testament to centuries of artistic, architectural, and agricultural achievement. Visitors wandering its cobblestone streets encounter Etruscan relics, Renaissance palazzos, ornate religious sanctuaries, and thriving artisanal traditions. The magnificent Piazza Grande, with its 17th-century Duomo, serves as the gravitational center, while the San Biagio sanctuary forms a stunning gateway to the iconic cypress-lined valleys that define the quintessential Tuscan landscape.

The Consortium has enhanced the visitor experience through the introduction of the “Pilgrimage to Montepulciano’s Pievi,” an immersive journey combining walking tours of historic parish territories with evening tastings of their distinctive wines. This multisensory experience invites travelers to engage deeply with the region’s terroir—physically traversing the landscape while savoring its enological expressions.

The economic significance of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is profound, with the industry valued at approximately one billion euros in combined assets, revenue, and production capacity. Average annual production value reaches 65 million euros, forming the cornerstone of a local economy in which 70% of activity is directly related to viticulture. Of the 16,500 hectares of municipal territory, vineyards occupy 2,000 hectares—including 1,200 hectares dedicated to Vino Nobile DOCG and 390 hectares to Rosso di Montepulciano DOC. The industry supports roughly 1,000 permanent jobs alongside seasonal positions spread across 90 bottling operations and 250 grape producers.

The 2024 market performance highlights continued growth, with 6.7 million bottles of Vino Nobile and 2.3 million bottles of Rosso reaching consumers. Export markets account for 65.5% of production, with Germany (37%) and the United States (28%) leading international demand. Particularly noteworthy is the increasing preference for organic certification, representing 44.7% of domestic sales and exceeding 50% of international transactions.

For wine lovers seeking authentic experiences, Montepulciano offers an unrivaled destination where history, culture, and exceptional winemaking converge. Whether exploring medieval alleys, participating in guided tastings, hiking through vine-covered hills, or embarking on parish pilgrimages, visitors are immersed in traditions that honor the past and embrace the future. The Pieve classification represents more than a marketing distinction; it is a profound reconnection with historical identity—a perfect expression of a region that continues to evolve while remaining true to its timeless character.

A Timeless Sanctuary for Wine Lovers
Situated gracefully on gently undulating limestone slopes that form a natural boundary between Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia, Montepulciano is a living testament to Tuscany’s rich oenological heritage. This captivating medieval settlement occupies a privileged position among Italy’s most celebrated wine regions, embodying the essence of cultural identity. From ancient Etruscan cultivation methods to modern winemaking innovations, Montepulciano’s terroir has seen the evolution of viticulture over millennia, solidifying its status among Tuscany’s revered wine sanctuaries.

More than just a production zone, Montepulciano serves as an immersive open-air museum chronicling the region’s enduring connection to viticulture. The town attracts discerning enophiles and cultural travelers from around the globe, each seeking the harmonious blend of historical significance and vinous excellence that defines this remarkable destination.
The charming historic center reveals layers of architectural and artistic achievement, including prehistoric Etruscan artifacts, magnificent Renaissance palazzos, consecrated sanctuaries adorned by master painters, classical performance venues, and thriving workshops that preserve traditional craftsmanship. Every cobblestone and archway contribute to Montepulciano’s unique charm, inviting visitors to lose themselves in its timeless allure. Here, amidst this splendid tapestry of historical and aesthetic treasures, wine serves as the ultimate ambassador—a masterful interpreter of Tuscany’s magnificent landscape. Through each glass of this noble elixir, visitors embark on a sensory journey that bridges past and present, terroir and tradition, celebrating Montepulciano’s enduring legacy as a sanctuary for those who value the profound relationship between place, culture, and exceptional winemaking.

Filippo Magnani

Liz Palmer’s Exclusive Interview with Barbara Widmer of Brancaia + Wine Tasting Notes

Born in 1971 in Zurich, Switzerland, Barbara Widmer grew up surrounded by a family that placed great importance on cooking, dining, and enjoying fine wines. This passion for food and wine was deeply ingrained in her upbringing and further strengthened in 1980, when her family acquired the Brancaia estate in Tuscany. Initially, Brancaia served primarily as a vacation retreat, and Barbara, as a young woman enjoying life in the city, could hardly envision herself living in rural Tuscany.

After completing high school, she pursued architecture at the University of Zurich, drawn by her creative interests. However, after four semesters, Barbara faced a creative crossroads. She retreated to the family estate in Tuscany for two months, coinciding with the grape harvest—a transformative experience. This stay ignited her passion for wine, shifting her career path entirely.

Barbara returned to Zurich to earn a wine merchant diploma and gained hands-on experience during a year-long internship at Domaine des Balisiers, Switzerland’s largest organic winery at the time. She worked equally in the vineyard and cellar, discovering her commitment to organic viticulture. Building on this foundation, she pursued oenology studies at the University of Wädenswil, setting the stage for her future in winemaking.

In 1998, while completing her oenology degree, her father, Bruno Widmer, acquired the Brancaia estate in Maremma, an emerging wine region along the Tuscan coast. For her thesis, Barbara developed a strategic plan titled How to Build Up the Brancaia in Maremma Winery, which became the blueprint for the estate’s growth. The Maremma project marked the beginning of her professional winemaking career, which she embraced with enthusiasm.

Since the late 1990s, Barbara has lived at the winery, managing Brancaia’s 3 properties: Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, and Maremma. Today, she leads a team of 60 people and works alongside her family, who play key roles in supporting the business.

Her brother Andreas, an entrepreneur and former marketer, contributes to communication and digital strategy. Michael, her other brother and a lawyer, provides expertise in financial and legal matters. Barbara’s two children, Nina and Nicolas, are part of the third generation contributing to the family business. Nina actively manages Brancaia’s social media, while Nicolas often helps in the Osteria’s kitchen. Additionally, Mara, Andreas’ daughter, supports the vinotheque in Zurich with marketing efforts alongside her studies.

Despite the challenges and unpredictability of winemaking, Barbara thrives on the variety and complexity of her work. “What I love most about winemaking,” she explains, “is that no two days are ever the same. Nature dictates our path, and we must respond thoughtfully to create the best expression of each vintage. It’s endlessly fascinating.”

Under her stewardship, Brancaia has flourished, producing wines that reflect her commitment to quality, sustainability, and respect for the land. Barbara Widmer’s story is one of transformation, dedication, and a profound passion for her craft, which continues to inspire her every day.

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Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Barbara Widmer: When I started my journey in the wine industry, there were not many women in leading winemaking roles, especially in Italy.

However, I was fortunate to work with people who valued skills and passion over gender. One of my biggest influences was Elisabetta Foradori. She has demonstrated an extraordinary commitment to quality and terroir-driven winemaking. Her ability to merge tradition with innovation while remaining true to her vision is something I deeply admire.

Today, I see many talented women shaping the future of wine, and that in itself is inspiring.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Barbara Widmer: One of the most defining moments in my career was realizing that uncompromising quality and organic viticulture are not just compatible, but actually reinforce each other. Over the years, I’ve witnessed how respecting nature results in healthier vines and better, more authentic wines. Seeing Brancaia grow from my parents’ passion project into one of Tuscany’s leading wineries has been incredibly rewarding.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Barbara Widmer: At Brancaia, we continuously refine our processes to enhance quality while staying true to our philosophy of respecting nature. Recently, we have further optimized our precision viticulture practices, using detailed soil mapping and climate data to make more informed decisions in the vineyard. This allows us to work in harmony with each parcel, ensuring the best possible expression of our terroir. In the cellar, we are constantly experimenting with different materials—such as concrete and cocciopesto-terracotta—to understand how they interact with different grape varieties and enhance the expression of our terroir. This ongoing exploration helps us refine our approach, always aiming for balance, elegance, and authenticity in every bottle.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Barbara Widmer: Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do at Brancaia. Being fully organic for years is just the starting point—we constantly strive to go further. In our vineyards, we nurture soil health through cover crops, minimize water usage, and completely avoid chemical herbicides. In the winery, we focus on energy efficiency, waste reduction, and the continuous improvement of our environmental footprint. For us, sustainability is not a trend but a long-term commitment to producing wines that respect both nature and future generations. This commitment extends to every detail, from investing in energy-efficient equipment to using sustainable packaging solutions. Most recently, we reconfirmed our Equalitas certification, a rigorous standard that evaluates environmental, social, and economic responsibility, ensuring that we operate transparently and with a lasting dedication to sustainability.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Barbara Widmer: I understand the appeal of the No and Low Alcohol trend, as consumers become more health-conscious and look for alternatives. However, at Brancaia, we focus on crafting wines that are deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir, and this includes maintaining their natural balance and structure. We believe that responsible consumption of high-quality wine is key. Rather than altering our wines to fit this movement, we encourage an approach that values moderation and appreciation of authentic, well-crafted wines.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Barbara Widmer: We stay connected to the global wine scene through constant exchange with our partners, sommeliers, and importers worldwide. Wine fairs, industry events, and tastings are essential, but so is simply listening to our customers. Our team is always open to innovation—whether it’s refining our winemaking techniques, improving sustainability, or elevating the experience we offer to wine lovers. However, while trends come and go, our commitment remains on producing excellent wines which are true to their origins.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Barbara Widmer: Winemaking is not a nine-to-five job—it requires passion, patience, and a lot of hard work. But if you truly love it, there is nothing more rewarding. Thirty years ago, the wine industry was much more male-dominated, but today, talent and dedication matter more than anything else. My advice is to gain as much hands-on experience as possible, stay curious, and surround yourself with people who challenge and inspire you. And, of course, having a great team and a supportive family makes all the difference.

Liz Palmer: Are there any other comments or statements you would like to add?

Barbara Widmer: At Brancaia, we are committed to continuously improving, both in terms of wine quality and sustainability. Our mission is to craft wines of excellence that reflect the Tuscan terroir while staying true to our core values: commitment to excellence, harmony and modern elegance. We believe that wine is about creating unforgettable shared moments, and that’s what drives us every day.

Wine Tasting Notes

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico 2020

This Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico 2020 displays a vivid ruby hue. It offers a captivating bouquet of dark cherries, crushed violets, complemented by cedar, spices with hints of leather and tobacco. On the palate, it is beautifully balanced with velvety tannins, lively acidity, with layers of lush ripe cherries, dark plum and dried herbs. Subtle oak integration adds depth, leading to a refined, long finish. This elegant and age-worthy Riserva is a testament to the finesse and power of the 2020 vintage.

93 Points
Liz Palmer

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020

The Brancaia Ilatraia 2020 is a bold and captivating blend that showcases the excellence of the Maremma Toscana region.

In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby color with alluring aromas of blackberries and blueberries, intertwined with hints of chocolate and herbs. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and impressively structured, with firm yet refined tannins, a vibrant acidity, and layers of blackberry compote, licorice, and dark chocolate, leading to a powerful and persistent finish. This is an elegant and age-worthy wine that will continue to evolve over the next decade.

94 Points
Liz Palmer

For further details: www.brancaia.it

Academic Study Forecasts Wine Industry Revival by 2026

A recent study by the University of Bordeaux and the University of Verona suggests the wine industry could see a recovery starting in 2026. The research used Italian wine producer Masi as a case study. A few weeks ago, an academic research paper “Resilience and preparation for the next cycle of global wine consumption. Masi: an original case study” was presented in Milan by Jean-Marie Cardebat, Professor of Economics at the University of Bordeaux, Director of the ECOr Research Department, Affiliate Professor at INSEEC Grande École and Director of the Wines & Spirits Chair in Paris, together with Davide Gaeta, Professor and lecturer in wine business economics and agri-food markets and competitiveness – Department of Management – University of Verona.

Professor Cardebat explained that economic cycles have always influenced global wine consumption. While current economic and geopolitical challenges have caused a decline in the market, he believes that controlling inflation could lead to a turning point in 2026. He also predicted that 2027 might mark the start of a recovery phase with sustained growth for the wine sector. However, he emphasized that this recovery would not replicate past market conditions. Changes in consumer behavior and new trends will shape the next phase of the industry.

Professor Cardebat also highlighted the importance of premiumization, with consumers increasingly seeking quality and high-value wines. He stressed the need for wineries to invest in brand development and enhance consumer experiences, such as wine tourism, which has grown significantly in recent years. He also noted that emerging markets might drive a renewed interest in red wine, which has declined in Europe.

Professor Gaeta outlined key factors for resilient wine companies to thrive in international markets. These include having a strong organizational structure, transparent information management, and strategies to diversify product offerings. He emphasized the importance of flexibility in responding to changing demand, both in grape supply and product range. Gaeta also pointed out that segmenting distribution and maintaining a diverse presence in global markets can help mitigate risks and create growth opportunities.

Additionally, Professor Gaeta noted that competitiveness in the wine industry can be strengthened through attention to corporate identity, strategic marketing, and innovation focused on sustainability. Both professors agreed that adapting to new consumer preferences and market conditions will be essential for the wine industry to navigate future challenges and opportunities.

Liz Palmer’s Exclusive Interview with Trailblazer of Argentine Wine Dr. Laura Catena + Wine Tasting Notes

Dr. Laura Catena is widely regarded as a leading figure in the Argentine wine industry, often described as “the face of Argentine wine.” Her contributions to the field are characterized by a profound commitment to advancing knowledge in viticulture, particularly in the domains of high-altitude cultivation, soil microbiome research, and wine ageability.

As a fourth-generation winemaker, Dr. Catena’s academic accolades are as inspiring as her wine expertise. She graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and later achieved her medical degree from Stanford University. Joining her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata—an icon in the wine world—at their family winery in 1995, Laura’s involvement sparked a new chapter of innovation. In 1999, she founded Luca Wines, named after her eldest son, with the goal of exploring the potential of old-vine Malbec in Argentina’s Uco Valley.

Dr. Catena’s scientific approach to winemaking materialized with the establishment of the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995, where her team meticulously examined the Adrianna Vineyard. This high-altitude vineyard, identified by her father as a game-changer for wine quality, is often regarded as one of the most scientifically studied vineyards globally.

In addition to her winemaking ventures, Dr. Catena is the author of Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina. Remarkably, she balanced her work as a pediatric emergency doctor until 2019, when she became managing director of Catena Zapata. Today, her compassion extends beyond wine, as she volunteers her medical expertise at a clinic in San Francisco serving individuals experiencing homelessness.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Laura Catena: Jancis Robinson was the first woman in the wine industry to inspire me. Jancis is highly principled and understands the power that she has as an influential journalist to actually make the world a better place. She has single handedly taken on the cause of lightweight bottles and has been relentless in pushing producers to lower their wine bottle weights. It’s because of Jancis that Catena joined the SWR – Sustainable Wine Roundtable – and that today we have reduced our overall bottle weight by 41% and that our average bottle weight is 420 grams.

I am influenced daily by the women in my Argentina production and exports teams. They are super hard working and always looking for creative solutions to problems. I’ve worked with many of the women at Catena for over two decades and watched them raise families and have successful careers. I feel that it’s an honor to work with them.

I was once told that it’s important to have older and younger mentors, and I find this to be excellent advice. I like to surround myself with women of all ages, and to non-stop learn from them.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Laura Catena: I recently attended a wine and health symposium in Rome as a speaker. I was invited because I am a medical doctor (I practiced Emergency Medicine in San Francisco for 25 years) and I created a web site – www.indefenseofwine.com – to share science-based information about the potential benefits and harms of alcohol in moderation. The speakers at the conference were leading medical doctors in the field of wine and health, longevity and Mediterranean Diet which includes wine. It was such a great honor to attend as a speaker. I don’t think that my Italian great grandfather who emigrated from Italy to Argentina in 1898 and started our Catena family winery in Argentina in 1902 could have imagined me going back to Italy as a speaker.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Laura Catena: We are doing a lot of work on water preservation, identifying ways to use less water by watering less in the early spring. This requires many research trials and measurements, but it is exciting to find ways to reduce water usage by 10-30 % which is very significant because there is less ice in the Andean Glaciers due to climate change. Another innovation is a protocol to study soil before planting. We are planting in new regions to the north of Mendoza, in the provinces of La Rioja Argentina, Salta and Catamarca. Every time we plant, we want to make sure to be using the right plant material in each soil type, following the best sun exposure to get the morning sun on the vines and grapes. We are also working on preserving massale, genetically diverse cuttings of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda – this is very exciting because Argentina is the equivalent of a world heritage site for plant diversity because of our history of ungrafted planting by massale selection.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Laura Catena: In 2010 we created Argentina’s first Sustainability Code and worked with Bodegas de Argentina to make it available to all Argentine producers. Today, we work with other producers to fulfill the code’s objectives, sharing information about best practices in the vineyards, water management and support of the local communities. Our sustainability code is constantly being improved through the communal efforts of its member wineries.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Laura Catena: It is not easy for most people who love wine to drink in moderation. This is a situation that we face as a species due to the abundance of endorphin-elevating beverages and food that surround us. It is so easy to eat and drink too much. I do believe that our industry needs to provide solutions for wine drinkers to moderate, and no/low beverages are a good option. The beer industry has produced some excellent no alcohol alternatives. The Catena Institute has worked on no/low wines for the last four years and we are currently launching three kinds of beverages under the brand Domaine EdeM (Domaine Elena de Mendoza) which includes a rose petal-infused dealcoholized sparkling rosé called ROSAE, two botanical infused must and verjus no alcohol sparkling beverages and two 7% alcohol sparkling Chardonnays: Uco Stones and Uco Mineral.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Laura Catena: The Catena Institute which I founded in 1995 is in constant collaboration with institutions all over the world (UC Davis, University of Burgundy, University of Bordeaux) – with over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals, we are the most published winery research institute in the world. The Catena Institute just won the V d’Or Sustainability Award at Vinexposium in Wine Paris. By collaborating with researchers all over the world, we are able to learn about the latest innovations in wine. We also attend conferences and symposiums, such as the Conference on Lifestyle, Mediterranean Diet and Wine that I just attended in Rome or the Sustainability in Drinks – SID conference in London. In 2024 we hosted the 15^th International Terroir Congress in Mendoza, Argentina.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

First, take WSET or another wine class. Wine is complex from a taste and historical/geographic standpoint and it’s important to understand the complexities in wine. Try to taste a lot of different wines, it takes about three to four years to develop a wine palate.
If you are more interested in the technical side find a program that provides a lot of hands-on experience.
Take a job doing anything wine related: work at a wine store, wine bar, winery tasting room.
Find a few substacks or people to follow on social media – Instagram is what most wine people use
Visit as many wineries as possible

“Dr. Laura Catena, A heartfelt “Thank You” for sharing your invaluable insights, exceptional expertise, and unwavering dedication. You are a shining example of dedication, vision, and resilience—a pioneer who continues to elevate Argentine wine while making meaningful contributions to her community” Liz Palmer

Tasting Notes

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021 and
Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021
This remarkable high-altitude Malbec showcases a stunning deep violet hue, offering a visual prelude to its layered character. The aroma unveils an inviting blend of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, delicately enhanced by herbaceous undertones and a touch of warm spice. On the palate, it displays an intricate interplay of flavours, with juicy blueberries and rich cassis complemented by whispers of vanilla and nuanced spice. The finish lingers gracefully, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and refinement.

95 Points
Liz Palmer

Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021
With its inaugural 1997 vintage, Nicolás Catena Zapata became the first luxury cuvée from Argentina to be exported around the world. The wine recreates the “Original Bordeaux Blend” of the 18th and 19th Centuries, when Malbec dominated over Merlot and was in equal standing to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Médoc.

“The label’s striking design is a manifesto, symbolising the transformative journey of Argentinian wine, and for the first time we are using a wax seal to honour the pre-phylloxera origins of our vines”

Varietal: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc

This wine displays an intense deep purple hue and immediately draws you in with its expressive character. The aromas are dominated by dark fruits—succulent blackberries, luscious cherries, and ripe plums, accented by subtle touches of vanilla, chocolate, with a hint of minerality. On the palate, it boasts incredible depth, revealing herbal and spicy notes characteristic of Bordeaux varieties, including hints of black pepper and exotic spices. The wine’s concentration is remarkable, supported by a bold tannic structure. The finish is long and persistent, offering a clear indication of the wine’s outstanding potential for long-term aging. An Argentine masterpiece!

97 Points
Liz Palmer

Trailblazing Winemaker Susana Balbo: An Exclusive Interview with Liz Palmer + Tasting Notes

Susana Balbo, a trailblazer in the wine industry, renowned for her pioneering contributions as Argentina’s first female winemaker and the visionary owner of Susana Balbo Wines. Her academic journey began with a transition from nuclear physics to enology, culminating in her graduation with honors from Don Bosco University in Mendoza in 1981. Navigating the challenges posed by a traditionally male-dominated profession, she revolutionized the Argentine wine sector and gained recognition for her innovative approach to viticulture. Her expertise in cultivating and refining Torrontés—a signature white grape variety of Argentina—earned her the title of “Queen of Torrontés.” Today, Susana Balbo’s winery stands as a testament to her resilience, creativity, and commitment to elevating Argentine wines on the global stage.

Expanding on her extraordinary journey and accomplishments, Susana Balbo opens up with me in this thoughtful and engaging interview, offering invaluable insights into her experiences, challenges, and aspirations for the future.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Susana Balbo: In my early days in Cafayate, I did not know any. There was no internet; I lived in a completely isolated town. We did not have a telephone, let alone any means of communication to connect with other women in the world. I did not travel the world either. Therefore, my inspiration has fundamentally been an obsession with quality. One of my teachers was Father Francisco Oreglia, who was the founder of the Technological School of Oenology and Fruit and Vegetable Industries in Mendoza. He was a perfectionist, and always inspired me to do things exceptionally well, constantly improving and getting better. However, at that time, I did not know any women from the wine world. Once the internet became available and information was easier to access, I already had over fifteen years of experience in my profession and was traveling around the world as a wine consultant. Honestly, I consider myself a self-made woman.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Susana Balbo: When I arrived in Cafayate, Salta, in 1981, Torrontés made up 75% of the grapes planted in the winery where I worked. Therefore, either I had to learn how to make good Torrontés wines or my job would not last long. Putting that aside, which is more anecdotal today, what I do differently is to work in a very respectful way with the variety, leaving aside some aromas in order to achieve complexity and elegance. What I see in Torrontés is an incredible versatility that allows you to create all kinds of things: you can make alcohol-free juices, low-alcohol wines with interesting aromas, natural sweet wines for young people who enjoy sweet, chilled wines, more serious wines fermented in oak barrels, and you can even use it for blends. It is a variety of extraordinay versatility, and it expresses a very distinct personality depending on the soil and terroir where it is grown. Its possibilities are endless.

A more recent achievement for which I feel deeply grateful is being recognized by Decanter with the prestigious Decanter Hall of Fame 2024 award. I share this accomplishment with my team, who have supported me throughout the years, and especially with my two children, who have been by my side for the past 12 years.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Susana Balbo: We have recently implemented several technological innovations in our winemaking process. One of them is the use of a press that employs inert gases, allowing us to better preserve the quality of the must during pressing by minimizing oxidation.

Additionally, we are using clayvers and amphorae in various shapes (spherical, oval, horizontal, and vertical) to determine which provides the best results in both the fermentation and aging of white wines.

We have also incorporated the use of special barrels, known as “Perle,” which work under pressure and enable carbonic maceration and fermentation with minimal intervention. This results in red wines with remarkable aromatic purity and excellent structure.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Susana Balbo: We believe that sustainability means performing actions with commitment. That is why we have worked as a team on defining our purpose: we nurture a culture of shared growth in all our relationships, aiming to boost the development of people and resources. We always work on creating value in terms of sustainability’s three dimensions: the people, the environment and the business.

As regards the environment, we focus on its preservation in every step of the winemaking process: from the vineyard to the bottle. Regarding the vineyards, we take care of them with the highest global standards of quality and sustainability. Significantly, our vineyard in Agrelo (where the winery is located) is certified organic, showcasing our dedication to environmentally friendly practices. Our daily hard work, for instance, is reflected on the Sustainability Certificate issued by Bodegas de Argentina. In addition, last year we renewed our BRC Global Standard for Food Safety certification, an achievement that reveals our commitment to quality and the environment. Some of the winery’s eco-friendly practices I can mention are: managing the use of energy in our daily activities, disposing of waste in a responsible manner and recycling important materials such as cork, wood, cardboard and nylon, using kraft boxes and bottles that are lighter than the traditional ones, implementing a drip irrigation system for vineyards and reusing sewer water coming from the common-use areas, among others.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Susana Balbo: As a winery that constantly pursues innovation, we believe it is important to offer products that meet the needs of these consumers. In 2022, we launched our sub-line CRIOS SUSTENTIA, focused on responsible consumption and ecological awareness. Under this premise, we offer a Chardonnay—being exclusively for the international market—with an alcohol content of 8 to 9 degrees, considered as a “light wine.” It is low in alcohol by Argentine standards, where due to our climate, it is easy for both whites and rosés—and even more so for red wines—to reach levels above 13 degrees.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: We stay up to date with the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry through continuous learning about new developments. This includes reading scientific journals, attending technological conferences, and participating in technical talks. Additionally, we keep close contact with industry colleagues, which enriches our knowledge and allows us to exchange experiences.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: To be able to lead and make changes in the industry we sometimes have to leave our comfort zone.

Another piece of advice is to focus on making quality wines, each of them reflecting the doer’s personality. Likewise, the story behind a wine must be consistent with that wine and with what the consumer tastes. A wine is recommended to others when the consumer and the clients quickly perceive consistency. Therefore, to enter into the world of wine, one must be convinced that there is a rocky road ahead but it is not an impossible road to take. This path should be clearly consistent with one’s goals.

Wine Tasting Notes
Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022
and
Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

This Torrontés is the first of its kind, produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet.

A luminous pale golden hue. On the nose, it offers a captivating bouquet of orange blossom and white peach, complemented by subtle undertones of nutmeg and vanilla derived from its four months of fermentation in French oak barrels. On the palate, the wine delivers a lively and harmonious profile, with vibrant floral and citrus notes balanced by a creamy texture with some hints of toast from the oak. Its crisp acidity provides excellent structure, leading to a refined and lingering finish. This innovative expression of Torrontés highlights the influence of high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022

“Making great wines requires courage, determination and passion. With over forty years of experience since my start as the first female winemaker in Argentina I am proud to off the best of myself through my signature wines. This Malbec is one of the most cherished wines from my winery. Produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet” Susana Balbo

This Malbec exemplifies elegance and depth, showcasing the unique character of high-altitude Mendoza vineyards. In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby color with violet undertones. The nose is expressive and layered, offering aromas of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, intertwined with hints of violet, mocha, and a touch of sweet spice.

On the palate, this Susana Balbo Signature Malbec is full-bodied yet impeccably balanced, with silky tannins and a vibrant acidity that provides structure and freshness. The fruit flavors are complemented by subtle notes of dark chocolate and toasted oak, a result of careful aging in French oak barrels. The finish is long and refined, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and complexity.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

Susana Balbo Website: https://en.susanabalbowines.com.ar/