Wine Tourism Archives

Exploring Ligurian Riviera’s Enchanting World of Vineyards and Villages – Filippo Magnani

Italy has many picturesque wine regions, but the rugged dramatic coastline known as Liguria, or the Italian Riviera, is an improbable treasure trove for the traveling wine enthusiast. Curved around the Mediterranean, the small, terraced vineyards of Liguria dot the landscape from the French border along the west coast of Italy down to the famed Cinque Terre.

The region’s geography plays a significant role in shaping the distinctive characteristics of its wines. Located between the Ligurian Sea and the Maritime Alps, it is a land of both rugged landscapes and a harmonious climate. The unique combination of warm coastal breezes and mountain influences creates an ideal environment for viticulture. The cool maritime influence helps retain acidity in the grapes, while the sun-drenched slopes provide the perfect conditions for grape ripening. The steep grades of many slopes create challenging conditions for grape growing. Some vineyards are isolated on terraces that have been carved out of the cliff and are only accessible by boat. Winemaking traditions in this area can be traced back 2500 years to the Etruscans and Greeks.

The indigenous grape varieties in Liguria have adapted to the region’s particular terroir over centuries. High concentrations of limestone give them a distinct minerality. The region produces mostly white wines (75%) and its most prominent white grape is Vermentino, referred to locally as Pigato meaning ‘spots’ that develop on the grapes as they reach maturity. This aromatic variety thrives in Liguria’s coastal areas, producing wines with vibrant acidity, crispness, and a bouquet of citrus fruits and floral notes. The best examples are praised for their refreshing and mineral-driven profiles. Vermentino is often blended with two other white grapes called Bosco and Albarola. Bosco gives structure and richness to these wines whereas Albarola can express notes of honey, flowers and perfume especially when made in the sweet style under the unique Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà DOC. For those who like rich and charismatic white wines the Cinque Terre.

As for red wines, Rossese and Ciliegolo and Vermentino Nero take the spotlight here. They create subtle and fruity wines that can show notes of herb and spice. Rossese wines are usually light-bodied and elegant, with red fruit flavors, floral nuances and delicate tannins. These wines capture the essence of Liguria’s terroir, reflecting its maritime influence and mountainous landscapes.

When it comes to tasting Ligurian wines, visitors will also be captivated by the region’s extraordinary food. The bright acidity of the region’s white wines complements the local seafood perfectly. Their citrus notes and hints of salinity provide a delightful pairing with dishes like seafood pasta, grilled fish, or even the Ligurian specialty, pesto. For red wine enthusiasts, their signature lightness offers a pleasant balance that doesn’t overwhelm the palate. They pair excellently with Ligurian-style pizza, salted cod dishes, or even a selection of local cheeses.

Of course, a visit to Liguria would not be complete without experiencing “The Five Villages of the Cinque Terre.” This string of ancient seaside towns nestled along the rugged coastline just northwest of La Spezia have earned themselves the coveted status as a UNESCO World Heritage site as a “cultural landscape” of extraordinary value.

Monterosso al Mare is the largest of the five villages, and it is also home to the only expansive beach in the region. The village is divided into two parts: the new town, where modern buildings and amenities can be found, and the charming old town, with its narrow streets and colorful houses. Monterosso is a great place to start your Cinque Terre adventure, with plenty of hiking trails and panoramic views to enjoy.

Vernazza is considered by many to be the most picturesque of the five villages. Its colorful alleyways and charming harbor attract visitors from all over the world. Vernazza is also home to the Doria Castle, which dates back to the 15th century and offers spectacular views of the village and the sea.

Corniglia is the only village in the Cinque Terre that is not directly connected to the sea. Instead, it is perched on top of a rocky promontory, surrounded by terraced vineyards. Due to its unique position and the effort required to reach it (by climbing 377 steps), it is the least visited of the five villages, making it an ideal spot for those seeking a more tranquil experience. On the hiking path from Corniglia to Manarolo you will find one of the best local wineries, Cantina Cappellini. Here you can taste wines in the middle of the terraced vineyards with stunning views overlooking the sea. Luciano Cappellini and his family have been making remarkable examples of Cinque Terre wines for seven generations.

Manarola is a small village that exudes charm and character. Its tall, colorful houses rise up the hillside leading up to the 14th-century church of San Lorenzo. Manarola is also home to the famous Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane), a scenic path that connects Manarola to Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore, the furthest south of the five villages, is a lively town with vibrant houses that cling to the steep hillside. Its bustling harbor is always busy with fishing boats that provide a steady supply of fresh seafood in its cozy restaurants. Riomaggiore is also home to the ancient Church of San Giovanni Battista which offers stunning views of the village and the sea.

Between Riomaggiore, Vernazza and S. Stefano Magra and Castelnuovo Magna, are 6 hectares of special vineyards cultivated by a talented winemaker named Walter de Battè. Leaving behind his life as a sailor he decided to follow in his father’s footsteps and take up viticulture. In 2003 Walter founded the Primaterra label with a group of friends and local experts. His philosophy is to produce wines that express the union between man, grapes and terroir. Both his whites and reds undergo considerable skin maceration to capture the unique qualities of their territory.

If you continue a little further south past La Spezia you will reach the picturesque town of Portovenere, sometimes called the “Sixth Town” of the Cinque Terre which also has UNESCO World Heritage status. Overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia you can take in the same views and archipelago that enchanted the 19th-century writer Lord Byron. The natural beauty here is truly breathtaking. Enjoy the numerous hiking trails along the coast or take a boat out to Palmaria island where you can dine at the legendary Locanda Lorena seafood restaurant. Portovenere itself also has plenty to discover, from the Doria Castle to the numerous boutique shops and restaurants offering the best of Ligurian wine and cuisine.

If you’re looking for memorable places to visit while tasting these delicious wines and local dishes, there are a few places that stand out. In the north of Cinqueterre, Portofino is a traditional fishing village with sophistication and elegance that attracts celebrities and jetsetters, but its beauty and charm make it worth the visit. For a more laid-back ambiance, the village of Santa Margherita Ligure offers just as much charm with some nice beaches that are perfect for a swim after lunch.

Austria establishes an official Vineyard Classification System

The recently adopted “Wine Law Collective Decree” has established the legal basis for the official classification of Austria’s single vineyards. The Ordinance defines two tiers: “Erste Lage” (premier cru) and “Große Lage” (grand cru). Classification is carried out according to a strict list of criteria. The first vineyard classifications can be expected in 2025, at the earliest.

Various private initiatives in Austria, for classifying single vineyards, known as “Rieds” have been in place in Austria for many years. These initiatives identify those of its members’ vineyards that have gained a name for producing first-class wines. Following an intense preliminary phase, the Wine Law Collective Decree 2023 has established the legal basis for an official, nationwide classification system. It outlines two tiers of classification. The “Erste Lage” (premier cru) is the first level that a vineyard can attain. Once a minimum of five years has elapsed, the vineyard is able to be defined as a “Große Lage” (grand cru).

“The Collective Decree 2023 has defined the legal basis for enabling Austrian Rieds to be classed officially according to a standardized system,” explains Chris Yorke, CEO of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (Austrian Wine). “The decision whether to classify Rieds is up to each wine-growing region because the significance of single vineyards differs from region to region,” Yorke adds.

Lower maximum yield per hectare and harvesting by hand required

The decree outlines the general conditions required for the classification of a vineyard. For example, the use of “Erste Lage” and “Große Lage” is only permitted on DAC wines from classified vineyards. Furthermore, the wine-growing region from where the wine originates must have defined the three DAC levels of Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (villages wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine). The decree also states that “Erste Lage” and “Große Lage” can only be used when the wine has been harvested by hand and a lower maximum yield per hectare than the legal limit is met.

Detailed documentation is essential

If a wine-growing region wants to classify its leading vineyards, the Regional Wine Committee must submit an application to the National Wine Committee. A classification document containing detailed information needs to be completed for each Ried. This covers facts such as the historical significance of the vineyard, the homogeneity of its soil, geological characteristics, climate and orientation, and the volume and value of the wines that the Ried produces. A Ried also has to provide evidence of other factors demonstrating its potential for producing high-quality wines, e.g. national and international wine ratings. For a Ried to receive the designation of “Große Lage”, it must have been an “Erste Lage” for at least five years and further requirements for the use of the term “Große Lage” will have to be defined.

“Establishing an official vineyard classification system at a national level presents considerable challenges,” emphasizes Yorke. “This is why we will be supporting the wine-growing regions with the process step by step over the next few years and continuously sharing our experiences.” The first “Erste Lage” classifications are not expected before 2025.

Here is a short overview:

Legal basis for an official vineyard classification system

The Wine Law Collective Decree defines the legal basis

Two tiers:

“Erste Lage”
“Große Lage” (at least 5 years after having been designated an “Erste Lage”)

Conditions for the use of the terms “Erste Lage” and “Große Lage” include:

DAC wines from classified Rieds (single vineyards)
lower maximum yield per hectare than the legal limit
harvesting by hand

The classification process:

Regional Wine Committees submit an application to the National Wine Committee on behalf of the Ried(s)
Classification document for each candidate Ried, including information about:
- the historical significance of the vineyard
- homogeneity of the soil, geological characteristics, climate and orientation
- national and international ratings of the Ried’s wines
The first classifications are expected in 2025, at the earliest.

Trento D.O.C – A Sparkling Journey Through Italian Excellence – Filippo Magnani

Italy is renowned for its incredible wines, and one region that genuinely stands out is Trento. Located in the picturesque Trentino-Alto Adige region, Trento was voted “Wine Region of the Year in 2020” but it remains a hidden gem for many sparkling wine enthusiasts. Trento D.O.C wines have a long and storied history that dates back centuries. The region’s viticulture roots can be traced all the way back to the Roman Empire. However, it was during the Austrian rule in the 19th century that the art of winemaking in Trento developed a reputation for exquisite sparkling wines.

In the early 1900’s a young enologist named Giulio Ferrari recognized the geographic and climatic similarities between the Champagne and Trentino. He and other producers planted Chardonnay and began to make wines in the classic method. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier were soon planted as well, and these grapes quickly began to thrive. By 1993 the region received its D.O.C status becoming Italy’s first for sparkling wine in the classic method and one of the earliest traditional sparkling D.O.C’s in the world! In 2007 the collective trademark Trentodoc was created which now includes 67 producers affiliated with the Istituto Trento DOC.

Trentodoc is also an active partner with the Institute of Masters of Wine showing that the Trentodoc brand has achieved international recognition and upholds the excellence of classic method sparkling wines. The IMW’s support ensures the knowledge of the Trentodoc territory will be shared with their students and the global wine community.

The Terroir – A Perfect Blend of Nature’s Gifts

Trento’s unique terroir, with its breathtaking Alpine landscapes, plays a crucial role in the production of these extraordinary wines. The vineyards, nestled between the Dolomite Mountains and Lake Garda, benefit from a mild and temperate climate. The cool nights and warm days, combined with the well-drained soils, create the perfect conditions for grape cultivation. The mineral-rich soils derive their complexity from both oceanic and volcanic activity over millions of years. The high elevations of the vineyards maintain high acidity in the grapes. It’s interesting to note that 70% of the region’s vineyards are over 3200 feet and 20% over 6500 feet. The region gets plenty of sunshine and the warming effects of Lake Garda which helps ensure grape maturity. These significant temperature variations contribute to the complexity and elegance of Trento D.O.C wines. Trentodoc is produced in 6 areas: Rovereto and the Vallagarina, Valle dei Laghi and Alto Garda area, Trento and the Valle dell’Adige, the Valsugana, the Val di Cembra and the Piana Rotaliana.

The Classic Method

This meticulous process of the classic method “metodo classico” involves a second fermentation in each bottle, resulting in fine bubbles and complex flavors. A base wine is first made following the same steps as a still wine. The wine is then bottled and a ‘liqueur de tirage’ is added which is made of yeast and sugars. This eventually triggers a second fermentation in the bottle releasing carbon dioxide creating bubbles. The bottles are placed on racks angled downwards so that the dead yeasts slowly collect in the neck of the bottle. This is called ‘riddling’. The sediment is eventually removed, a process called ‘disgorgement’ and reserve wine with sugar can be added according to the ‘dosage’ which ultimately determines the sweetness of the wine. Trento D.O.C sparkling wines require at least 15 months of aging on the lees adding depth and richness to the wines. Vintage wines require 24 months of lees aging and Riserva wines require 36 months. The DOC requirements are also applied to vine cultivation and yield.

The Grapes – the Essence of Elegance

The primary grape varieties used in Trento D.O.C wines are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These grapes imbue the wines with remarkable elegance, character, and freshness. Each variety adds its own unique personality to the final blend, ensuring a diverse range of flavors. Chardonnay brings acidity and a delicate floral aroma, while Pinot Noir contributes structure and fruity notes. Pinot Meunier adds complexity and brings out a rich aromatic profile in the wines. Due to the steep mountainsides in the Trentino region, many of the vines are trained using the pergola system. Vines are trained vertically straight up posts and then tied horizontally parallel to each other. This method ensures they get enough sunshine but also makes it easier to prune them. Harvesting is still done by hand. Other vine training methods are also used here such as guyot and spurred cordon.

A Symphony of Flavors

Trento D.O.C sparkling wines offer a delightful sensory experience. With their pale straw color and fine perlage, they captivate the eye. On the nose, aromas of white flowers, green apple, and citrus fruits come alive, inviting you to take your first sip. The palate reveals a perfect balance of crisp acidity, creamy mousse, and a medley of flavors, including toasted almonds, brioche, and ripe tropical fruits. The overall effect is both elegant and refreshing, leaving a lasting impression.

Pairing Trento D.O.C wines with the right food elevates the whole tasting experience. The refreshing acidity and complex flavors of these sparkling wines make them a perfect companion for many dishes. From seafood and sushi to creamy risottos and aged cheeses, their versatility makes them an ideal choice for any occasion. The fine bubbles and vibrant acidity also help cleanse the palate and enhance the flavors of the food.

Exploring A Wine Lover’s Paradise

For wine enthusiasts seeking a unique and memorable experience, a visit to Trentino will not disappoint. A short drive north of Lake Garda and you are surrounded by forest-covered hills and the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites. Trento itself is one of the liveliest towns in the Alps. Colorful facades surround charming piazzas and the castle and cable cars offer breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Many wineries are just outside of town. Winery visits can be combined with a trip to the lake or a hike into the nearby canyons. Most wineries offer tours and tastings that allow you to discover not only the intricacies of the region’s winemaking process but also to explore the vineyards with spectacular landscapes.

For active travelers, visiting Trentino is a sports lover’s dream. The Dolomites offer world-class biking, hiking, and trekking through breathtaking landscapes. Lake Garda offers ideal conditions for windsurfing and other water sports. If you choose to visit in the winter you can ski or snowboard out of your chalet and in less than a half hour be sipping bubbles at a local winery. Additionally, every year in November and December Trento puts on its ‘Bubbles in the City’ event which offers different types of tastings and food workshops with local chefs.

Wineries to Visit

Altemasi
Produced by Cavit one of the leading wine groups in Trentino. The name Altemasi means “high estate” and these wines come from vineyards as high as 2600 feet and are some of their most awarded wines. Cavit’s wine enoteca just outside Trento is a great place to taste an impressive array of wines from the region, both still and sparkling.
www.altemasi.it

Abate Nero
Founded in 1973 by two friends, Eugenio de Castel Terlago and winemaker Luciano Lunelli. The name means “black abbot” and is a reference to the dark robe the monk Dom Perignon wore. They started in the same cellars where Giulio Ferrari wines were once made, focusing only on sparkling wines in the classic method. They have earned a reputation for producing wines that are a stylistic symbol of the Trentino territory.
www.abatenero.it

Balter
Located in a 16th-century castle bought by Francesco Balter in 1872, the Balter family has used this special location to grow grapes since the 1960’s. They built a winery underneath the vineyards in 1990. Visitors can tour the grounds and taste their wines in a truly unique setting.
www.balter.it

Cantina Toblino
Located in the Valle dei Laghi area just north of Lake Garda this winery is a cooperative founded in 1960 by a group of passionate winemakers. The winery produces some of the region’s top wines using innovative techniques and promoting native varieties such as Nosiola, also used to make the sweet Trentino Vino Santo. Visitors can enjoy lunch or dinner at their restaurant Hosteria Toblino which serves traditional dishes with a modern touch.
www.toblino.it

Cesarini Sforza
The Cesarini Sforza Family moved to Trento 200 years ago when Count Filippo Cesarini Sforza was elected as its mayor. In 1974 they created a winery to produce high-quality sparkling wines. Two years later they were making classic method wines of national repute. Today their wines are an assemblage of six different vineyards each contributing their own character.
www.cesarinisforza.it

Ferrari Trento
Founded in 1902 by Giulo Ferrari, a pioneer in Trentino who recognized the potential of Chardonnay to produce sparkling wines that could rival those in Champagne. His vision and obsession for quality laid the foundation for one of Italy’s most prominent classic method wineries. With no sons or daughters, Giulio passed on leadership to a local wine shop owner, Bruno Lunelli in 1952. The Lunelli Family had carried on their tradition of excellence since then. Visitors can enjoy several different tastings and guided tours including that of the Venetian style 16th century Villa Margon complete with frescoes, antique furniture and priceless art. For those who enjoy Michelin-star dining experiences, the Lunelli Family also opened Locanda Margon, a 2-star restaurant just up the hill from the winery.
www.ferraritrento.com

Monfort
Four generations of winemakers have carried on the sparkling wine tradition of Monfort. In 1965 the Simoni Family bought the cellars of Palazzo Monfort nestled in the heart of the town of Lavis just north of Trento. Since 1985 they have been producing quality sparkling wines in the classic method. They offer an immersive guided tour of the cellars that also takes you through the historic streets of Lavis to the terraced botanical garden of Ciucioi.
www.cantinemonfort.com

Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga
Originally a monastery in the early Middle Ages, the San Leonardo estate has been the residence of the Marquis Guerriere Gonzaga for over 300 hundred years. Today the family produces still, sparkling wines, grappa and honey. The Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga is a blanc de blanc Trento Doc flagship wine. The estate is comprised of 50 acres of vineyards, their guided visit explores the grounds, winery, cellars, monastic garden, church, and museum.
www.sanleonardo.it

Photos: Istituto Trento Doc

Domaine Lafage (Roussillon) first to start harvest in France

Jean-Marc Lafage, renowned winemaker from Roussillon’s Domaine Lafage, made history as the first producer to start harvesting in France this year. Lafage’s picking season commenced August 2nd in what has been a particularly dry year for the region. Despite the challenges posed by the drought, Jean-Marc remains optimistic about the quality of their harvest.

The first grapes to be harvested were Muscat à Petits Grains – these are used to create a lower-alcohol dry white blend called Miraflors. This blend also includes Macabeo and Colombard grapes, resulting in a wine with an ABV of approximately 10.2%. Lafage describes Miraflors as having a slight fizz, creating a light and refreshing style.

Regarding the growing conditions this year, Lafage notes that Roussillon experienced a severe drought. The region received only a third of its average rainfall over the past 20 years, with Domaine Lafage recording a total of just 200mm for 2023. However, Lafage states that their vineyards near the sea or high in the mountains fared relatively well.

In contrast, vineyards in areas between the coast and mountains, which traditionally produce fortified wines, faced significant challenges. Lafage anticipates losing up to 60% of the crop in these vineyards. But where regenerative viticulture techniques have been applied, such as permanent ground cover and no tilling of the soil, yields are expected to be higher.

Lafage highlights the success they have observed in vineyards practicing regenerative viticulture and utilizing biochar and cover crops. He states, “In these places, instead of losing 60% of the crop [due to desiccation], we are seeing maybe a 25-30% reduction [in yields], and we see fresh grapes and bigger berries.” The presence of a cover crop has resulted in berries that are nearly twice the size compared to other areas, weighing around 0.8-1 grams per berry compared to 0.5g elsewhere. Lafage attributes this difference to the ability of the cover crop and biochar to help the soil retain water.

In terms of quality, Lafage believes that in vineyards where the vines did not suffer excessive heat stress, they may harvest the best grapes they have ever had. Furthermore, these fully ripe berries have achieved lower sugar levels, resulting in an ABV of 12.5% to 13% yet retaining the same flavor as fruit that would typically be harvested at 14-15.5% ABV.

Lafage also notes that their vineyards in Roussillon have been fortunate to not experience mildew, unlike other parts of France such as Gascony and Bordeaux. The constant wind and arid conditions in the area have helped protect the vines.

De Waal – Top of the Hill Pinotage

The De Waal Wine Farm is located on Uiterwyk Estate in the cool Stellenbosch Kloof Valley, which has been in De Waal family since 1864. Currently owned by Pieter de Waal, this historic family has been making wine for nine generations. De Waal is renowned for the classic style of its Pinotage wines, the only indigenous South African grape variety.

Did you know?

CT de Waal was the first winemaker in South Africa to make wine from Pinotage grapes in 1941.

And,

De Waal Wine Farm is the home of Top of the Hill Pinotage, which is made from the world’s oldest Pinotage vines.