Liz Palmer’s Exclusive Interview with Barbara Widmer of Brancaia + Wine Tasting Notes

Born in 1971 in Zurich, Switzerland, Barbara Widmer grew up surrounded by a family that placed great importance on cooking, dining, and enjoying fine wines. This passion for food and wine was deeply ingrained in her upbringing and further strengthened in 1980, when her family acquired the Brancaia estate in Tuscany. Initially, Brancaia served primarily as a vacation retreat, and Barbara, as a young woman enjoying life in the city, could hardly envision herself living in rural Tuscany.

After completing high school, she pursued architecture at the University of Zurich, drawn by her creative interests. However, after four semesters, Barbara faced a creative crossroads. She retreated to the family estate in Tuscany for two months, coinciding with the grape harvest—a transformative experience. This stay ignited her passion for wine, shifting her career path entirely.

Barbara returned to Zurich to earn a wine merchant diploma and gained hands-on experience during a year-long internship at Domaine des Balisiers, Switzerland’s largest organic winery at the time. She worked equally in the vineyard and cellar, discovering her commitment to organic viticulture. Building on this foundation, she pursued oenology studies at the University of Wädenswil, setting the stage for her future in winemaking.

In 1998, while completing her oenology degree, her father, Bruno Widmer, acquired the Brancaia estate in Maremma, an emerging wine region along the Tuscan coast. For her thesis, Barbara developed a strategic plan titled How to Build Up the Brancaia in Maremma Winery, which became the blueprint for the estate’s growth. The Maremma project marked the beginning of her professional winemaking career, which she embraced with enthusiasm.

Since the late 1990s, Barbara has lived at the winery, managing Brancaia’s 3 properties: Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, and Maremma. Today, she leads a team of 60 people and works alongside her family, who play key roles in supporting the business.

Her brother Andreas, an entrepreneur and former marketer, contributes to communication and digital strategy. Michael, her other brother and a lawyer, provides expertise in financial and legal matters. Barbara’s two children, Nina and Nicolas, are part of the third generation contributing to the family business. Nina actively manages Brancaia’s social media, while Nicolas often helps in the Osteria’s kitchen. Additionally, Mara, Andreas’ daughter, supports the vinotheque in Zurich with marketing efforts alongside her studies.

Despite the challenges and unpredictability of winemaking, Barbara thrives on the variety and complexity of her work. “What I love most about winemaking,” she explains, “is that no two days are ever the same. Nature dictates our path, and we must respond thoughtfully to create the best expression of each vintage. It’s endlessly fascinating.

Under her stewardship, Brancaia has flourished, producing wines that reflect her commitment to quality, sustainability, and respect for the land. Barbara Widmer’s story is one of transformation, dedication, and a profound passion for her craft, which continues to inspire her every day.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Barbara Widmer: When I started my journey in the wine industry, there were not many women in leading winemaking roles, especially in Italy.

However, I was fortunate to work with people who valued skills and passion over gender. One of my biggest influences was Elisabetta Foradori. She has demonstrated an extraordinary commitment to quality and terroir-driven winemaking. Her ability to merge tradition with innovation while remaining true to her vision is something I deeply admire.

Today, I see many talented women shaping the future of wine, and that in itself is inspiring.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Barbara Widmer: One of the most defining moments in my career was realizing that uncompromising quality and organic viticulture are not just compatible, but actually reinforce each other. Over the years, I’ve witnessed how respecting nature results in healthier vines and better, more authentic wines. Seeing Brancaia grow from my parents’ passion project into one of Tuscany’s leading wineries has been incredibly rewarding.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Barbara Widmer: At Brancaia, we continuously refine our processes to enhance quality while staying true to our philosophy of respecting nature. Recently, we have further optimized our precision viticulture practices, using detailed soil mapping and climate data to make more informed decisions in the vineyard. This allows us to work in harmony with each parcel, ensuring the best possible expression of our terroir. In the cellar, we are constantly experimenting with different materials—such as concrete and cocciopesto-terracotta—to understand how they interact with different grape varieties and enhance the expression of our terroir. This ongoing exploration helps us refine our approach, always aiming for balance, elegance, and authenticity in every bottle.

Liz Palmer:  How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Barbara Widmer: Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do at Brancaia. Being fully organic for years is just the starting point—we constantly strive to go further. In our vineyards, we nurture soil health through cover crops, minimize water usage, and completely avoid chemical herbicides. In the winery, we focus on energy efficiency, waste reduction, and the continuous improvement of our environmental footprint. For us, sustainability is not a trend but a long-term commitment to producing wines that respect both nature and future generations. This commitment extends to every detail, from investing in energy-efficient equipment to using sustainable packaging solutions. Most recently, we reconfirmed our Equalitas certification, a rigorous standard that evaluates environmental, social, and economic responsibility, ensuring that we operate transparently and with a lasting dedication to sustainability.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Barbara Widmer: I understand the appeal of the No and Low Alcohol trend, as consumers become more health-conscious and look for alternatives. However, at Brancaia, we focus on crafting wines that are deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir, and this includes maintaining their natural balance and structure. We believe that responsible consumption of high-quality wine is key. Rather than altering our wines to fit this movement, we encourage an approach that values moderation and appreciation of authentic, well-crafted wines.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Barbara Widmer: We stay connected to the global wine scene through constant exchange with our partners, sommeliers, and importers worldwide. Wine fairs, industry events, and tastings are essential, but so is simply listening to our customers. Our team is always open to innovation—whether it’s refining our winemaking techniques, improving sustainability, or elevating the experience we offer to wine lovers. However, while trends come and go, our commitment remains on producing excellent wines which are true to their origins.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Barbara Widmer: Winemaking is not a nine-to-five job—it requires passion, patience, and a lot of hard work. But if you truly love it, there is nothing more rewarding. Thirty years ago, the wine industry was much more male-dominated, but today, talent and dedication matter more than anything else. My advice is to gain as much hands-on experience as possible, stay curious, and surround yourself with people who challenge and inspire you. And, of course, having a great team and a supportive family makes all the difference.

Liz Palmer: Are there any other comments or statements you would like to add?

Barbara Widmer: At Brancaia, we are committed to continuously improving, both in terms of wine quality and sustainability. Our mission is to craft wines of excellence that reflect the Tuscan terroir while staying true to our core values: commitment to excellence, harmony and modern elegance. We believe that wine is about creating unforgettable shared moments, and that’s what drives us every day.

Wine Tasting Notes

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico 2020

This Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico 2020 displays a vivid ruby hue. It offers a captivating bouquet of dark cherries, crushed violets, complemented by cedar, spices with hints of leather and tobacco. On the palate, it is beautifully balanced with velvety tannins, lively acidity, with layers of lush ripe cherries, dark plum and dried herbs. Subtle oak integration adds depth, leading to a refined, long finish. This elegant and age-worthy Riserva is a testament to the finesse and power of the 2020 vintage.

93 Points
Liz Palmer

Brancaia Ilatraia 2020

The Brancaia Ilatraia 2020 is a bold and captivating blend that showcases the excellence of the Maremma Toscana region.

In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby color with alluring aromas of blackberries and blueberries, intertwined with hints of chocolate and herbs. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and impressively structured, with firm yet refined tannins, a vibrant acidity, and layers of blackberry compote, licorice, and dark chocolate, leading to a powerful and persistent finish. This is an elegant and age-worthy wine that will continue to evolve over the next decade.

94 Points
Liz Palmer

For further details: www.brancaia.it

Academic Study Forecasts Wine Industry Revival by 2026

A recent study by the University of Bordeaux and the University of Verona suggests the wine industry could see a recovery starting in 2026. The research used Italian wine producer Masi as a case study. A few weeks ago, an academic research paper “Resilience and preparation for the next cycle of global wine consumption. Masi: an original case study” was presented in Milan by Jean-Marie Cardebat, Professor of Economics at the University of Bordeaux, Director of the ECOr Research Department, Affiliate Professor at INSEEC Grande École and Director of the Wines & Spirits Chair in Paris, together with Davide Gaeta, Professor and lecturer in wine business economics and agri-food markets and competitiveness – Department of Management – University of Verona.

Professor Cardebat explained that economic cycles have always influenced global wine consumption. While current economic and geopolitical challenges have caused a decline in the market, he believes that controlling inflation could lead to a turning point in 2026. He also predicted that 2027 might mark the start of a recovery phase with sustained growth for the wine sector. However, he emphasized that this recovery would not replicate past market conditions. Changes in consumer behavior and new trends will shape the next phase of the industry.

Professor Cardebat also highlighted the importance of premiumization, with consumers increasingly seeking quality and high-value wines. He stressed the need for wineries to invest in brand development and enhance consumer experiences, such as wine tourism, which has grown significantly in recent years. He also noted that emerging markets might drive a renewed interest in red wine, which has declined in Europe.

Professor Gaeta outlined key factors for resilient wine companies to thrive in international markets. These include having a strong organizational structure, transparent information management, and strategies to diversify product offerings. He emphasized the importance of flexibility in responding to changing demand, both in grape supply and product range. Gaeta also pointed out that segmenting distribution and maintaining a diverse presence in global markets can help mitigate risks and create growth opportunities.

Additionally, Professor Gaeta noted that competitiveness in the wine industry can be strengthened through attention to corporate identity, strategic marketing, and innovation focused on sustainability. Both professors agreed that adapting to new consumer preferences and market conditions will be essential for the wine industry to navigate future challenges and opportunities.

Wine Review: Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella 2021 – Liz Palmer

Tasting Notes:

This wine is a Symphony of Flavors, showcasing a deep, dark inky red hue that captivates. On the nose, it reveals an intricate bouquet of dark cherry, dried fig, and grilled herbs, intertwined with subtle hints of dark chocolate and spice. The palate is a harmonious blend of savory and sweet, with flavors of bacon, dark cherry, and dried figgy fruit, with a touch of dark chocolate and spice. The wine is full-bodied and balanced by velvety tannins and a long, lingering finish that leaves a lasting impression and wanting more.
93 Points
Liz Palmer

Food Pairing:

This Amarone is a versatile companion to a variety of dishes. Its robust flavors pair beautifully with roasted venison, beef daube, and leg of lamb. For a more traditional pairing, try it with polenta dishes or pasta with a rich tomato sauce. The wine’s complexity also makes it a delightful match for aged cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano or Gorgonzola.

Valpolicella Charts New Path: Amarone’s Journey from Volume to Value

On February 1 and 2, the Valpolicella Wine Consortium celebrated the 20th anniversary of Amarone Opera Prima with world-renowned tenor Vittorio Grigolo, a former Sistine Chapel soloist and Arena Opera Festival star since 2013.

The two-day event, hosted in the 17th-century Gran Guardia building on Piazza Brà, featured 70 producers. Consortium President Christian Marchesini focused his keynote on Valpolicella’s future amid shifting global markets and consumer preferences. Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi, the consortium’s vice-president, noted that while past Amarone production catered to demand for smooth, approachable reds in high volumes, today’s market seeks wines with stronger territorial identity and clear messaging. He emphasized the need for synergy between method, territory, producers, and communication, requiring cultural, legislative, and production changes to shift from volume to value.

Vintage 2020

In general, Amarone 2020 turned out to be soft and fruity with good structural balance, a true reflection of the vintage. The year began with normal bud burst timing and a warm, dry spring. Despite weather fluctuations—including June rains, July heat, and late-summer rainfall—skilled vineyard management ensured healthy fruit development. The mid-September harvest yielded grapes that produced an exceptional Amarone, characterized by perfect ripeness, balanced acidity, and profound aromatics that masterfully express both varietal and traditional appassimento characteristics. This exceptional wine promises remarkable aging potential, driven by its precise acidity and true-to-type expression. Its sophisticated bouquet weaves together authentic varietal notes with distinctive aromas from the appassimento process and barrel aging. In the glass, it commands attention with its profound color depth, impeccable structural balance, and harmonious alcohol integration.

Territory, Tourism, and Market Changes Shape New Strategy as Valpolicella Celebrates 100 Years

“The three wines of Valpolicella uniquely reflect the varied tastes across generations among Italian denominations. Amarone and Recioto appeal to mature consumers, Ripasso to millennials, and Valpolicella—a contemporary wine which Milo Manara fittingly depicted with a woman—to the younger generation,” said Christian Marchesini, President of the Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium, at Amarone Opera Prima. The event celebrated the centenary of Veneto’s first wine consortium, which now represents over 2,400 companies, 360 bottlers, and approximately 8,600 hectares of vineyards.

The Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium anchors Italy’s wine heritage, bringing together over 2,400 businesses throughout 19 municipalities in Verona province. This dynamic collective encompasses growers, winemakers, and bottlers who tend to 8,600 hectares of prestigious vineyards. With annual revenues exceeding 600 million euros—predominantly driven by Amarone’s success—the Consortium safeguards and champions the denomination’s interests both within Italy and abroad. Representing over 70% of the region’s production, it serves as the authoritative voice for one of Italy’s most distinguished wine regions.

Regional Characteristics and Denominations

Valpolicella’s distinctiveness stems from its location between the Dolomites and Lake Garda. The Monti Lessini plateau shields vineyards from Alpine cold, while Lake Garda provides mild winters and ventilation, enabling longer growing seasons that produce concentrated wines with high acidity. The region’s traditional appassimento method—grape drying—creates its flagship Amarone wine.

The region produces four wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. Each can originate from three territories: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella DOC Classico, and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena.

Experiencing Valpolicella

The region offers diverse attractions beyond wine. Historic villages like San Giorgio di Valpolicella showcase 12th-century Romanesque architecture, while Fumane features the preserved Maso degli Orzi rural complex. San Pietro in Cariano’s Villa Serego Alighieri serves as both winery and museum.

Verona, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides an ideal base for exploring. The city features the Roman Arena, Juliet’s House, and Piazza delle Erbe. Nearby Lake Garda offers water sports and scenic villages.

Local cuisine includes specialties like bigoli with duck ragù and paparotte (cabbage and bean soup), perfectly complementing regional wines.

Legacy in Motion: Protecting Valpolicella’s Appassimento Tradition

The Valpolicella community seeks UNESCO Intangible Heritage status for its appassimento tradition—not for commercial gain, as Amarone already generates over 600 million euros in revenue, but to preserve the practice for future generations. The application process has unified the community while respecting individual approaches to tradition and innovation. Visitors can experience this heritage through various accommodations, from intimate farmhouses to luxury wine resorts in converted Renaissance villas, all within 30 minutes of Verona.

My Choices of Valpolicella’s Producers

Below are a few notable producers that caught my eye and palate during this year’s Amarone Opera Prima event. They range from historic estates to new state-of-the-art wineries, and small, passionate producers focused on terroir and sustainability.

CONTRADA PALUIwww.contradapalui.com Contrada Palui is a relatively new producer created by the innovative and passionate Hannes Pichler. After studying renewable energies in London and Milan, Hannes discovered a naturally organic green meadow in the Valpolicella region, just northeast of Verona, which had never seen pesticides. He planted a vineyard there. The unique location benefits from 500 meters elevation and 180 degrees of sun exposure. The soil composition includes clay, limestone, flint, and black basalt, allowing Hannes to produce very terroir-driven wines. He converted an old hay barn to store his barrels and amphorae.

LA COLLINA DEI CILIEGIwww.lacollinadeiciliegi.it Nestled in the hills of the Valpantena territory, the charming Collina dei Ciliegi is the dream of winemaker Massimo Gianolli. He began his journey in 2005 with a small production of grapes that became the first Amarone produced in the small village of Erbin. Now, La Collina dei Ciliegi produces three collections exported to over 20 countries worldwide. They have some of the highest vineyards in Valpolicella (750m) with chalky soils that produce wines with excellent acidity and minerality. Their modern approach includes new blends that combine traditional and international varieties. A visit to the winery offers a memorable journey through the land, culture, and flavors of Valpantena. Their beautifully restored farmhouse, Ca’ Del Moro, welcomes visitors for tastings, vineyard walks, fine dining, and stays in six finely refurbished rooms, each named after symbolic wines of the region (Amarone, Valpolicella, Recioto, Ripasso, Garganega, and Corvina).

LE GUAITE DI NOEMI www.leguaite.it Noemi Pizzighella, the driving force behind Le Guaite, is a young and highly respected winemaker in Veneto. Growing up in the vineyards of Mezzane di Sotto, north of Verona, Noemi was immersed in the rich viticultural traditions of her family. Her father, Stefano Pizzighella, started a small olive oil production in 1987, making the most of the family’s olive groves. Inspired by her father’s dedication, Noemi developed a passion for winemaking as a child.

Le Guaite’s portfolio includes the celebrated Amarone della Valpolicella, known for its rich, robust profile with notes of dark fruit, spice, and a velvety finish. The Valpolicella Superiore is another standout, offering a harmonious balance of red berries, herbs, and subtle oak. Noemi’s meticulous attention to detail ensures that each bottle embodies the essence of the region. Her wines include Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Tano IGT Rosso Veronese. These wines are celebrated for their fresh and fruity nuances, distancing themselves from the opulence of certain other Valpolicella wines.

MASSIMAGOwww.massimago.com Hidden in the valley of Mezzane in Valpolicella is the Massimago winery which dates back to 1883. The name comes from Latin meaning “maximum wellness” and that is certainly what they have created here. Current owner and winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet renovated the entire estate in 2003, expanding their cellars and creating a Wine Relais with seven elegant country-style suites, a pool, a private spa, and a restaurant serving dishes created from ingredients grown on the property. Visitors can enjoy a variety of tasting experiences from a vineyard walk to a picnic or e-bike tour.

TENUTA SANTA MARIA di Gaetano Bertani – www.tenutasantamaria.wine Tenuta Santa Maria, a historic estate dating to the 16th century in Arbizzano di Negrar, stands as one of Valpolicella’s most significant cultural and viticultural landmarks. Under the stewardship of brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani, who inherited the estate from their father, legendary winemaker Gaetano Bertani, the winery continues a centuries-old tradition of excellence.

The estate’s neoclassical complex, featuring a frescoed villa and monumental cellar, is recognized as a national monument. Tenuta Santa Maria combines historical significance with modern innovation. The Bertani brothers focus on indigenous varieties and sustainable practices, producing wines from both their Valpolicella estate and ventures in Soave’s Colognola ai Colli, as well as a high-altitude project in Valpantena. Their portfolio reflects both tradition and innovation, showcasing the diversity of Veneto’s terroir through wines that blend historical techniques with modern precision.

Filippo Magnani

La Scolca Wines Take Center State at Italian-Themed Dinner Hosted by King Charles and Queen Camilla

Last Friday, King Charles and Queen Camilla hosted an Italian-themed dinner, at their Highgrove estate in Gloucestershire, featuring an extraordinary guest list, including Helen Mirren, David and Victoria Beckham, Rod Stewart, Donatella Versace, Sienna Miller, the Italian Ambassador to the UK, Inigo Lambertini, Chiara Soldati, and the British Ambassador to Rome, Lord Edward Llewellyn. A key evening figure was Stanley Tucci, an American actor of Italian descent and an expert in Italian gastronomy. Tucci collaborated with Chef Francesco Mazzei, a long-time ambassador of Italian cuisine worldwide, to create the exclusive menu for the evening.

The reception and dinner menu, prepared by Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei, featured Italian recipes with British ingredients and was accompanied by English sparkling wine and Italian wines.

This dinner comes ahead of the royal couple’s state visit to Italy in early April, in which there will be engagements in Rome and Ravenna, with exclusive meetings with Pope Francis and Italian political leaders.

King Charles states this as a “most splendid evening which brings together two things very dear to my heart – slow food and Italy”, and “A nation’s food culture is a priceless social and environmental asset, intimately bound up with its sense of identity and place.”

“To say that we are looking forward to it would be to engage in a little British understatement,” he joked to diners, including Stanley Tucci, who inspired the choice of food.

“To better emphasize the special friendship between the two countries,” Chef Mazzei commented, “Stanley and I thought of an Italian menu made almost entirely with products from the United Kingdom. I must say, I found some exceptional products that are in no way inferior to those from Italy. The only products I imported from Italy were extra virgin olive oil and wines.”

The Piedmontese winery La Scolca played a leading role, with its Gavi dei Gavi Black Label 2023 accompanied by two of the dishes. “It was an honor to represent Italy, my region, and my territory at such an important event,” said Chiara Soldati, CEO of La Scolca and Knight of Labour, “during which Italian lifestyle excellence was celebrated. Chef Mazzei did a wonderful job of creating a gastronomic bridge between the two countries, in a union that is not just metaphorical but between two cultures and two important traditions. Events like this provide an important opportunity to highlight the value of our gastronomic tradition and our craftsmanship, elements that make Made in Italy a globally recognized and appreciated model.”

Food + Wine Served

Reception
Rare and pasture salumi
Tuscan-style paté and coppa
Yorkshire pecorino cheese puffs
British vegetables caponata tartelletta

Wine: Highgrove sparkling wine

Dinner
Scottish crab panzanella
Westcombe ricotta and Highgrove fine herbs ravioli
Isle of Wight tomato passata
Suffolk Red porchetta
Pumpkin and sage mash, Tuscan kale

Wines: white wine Gavi dei Gavi La Scolca Black label 2023 and red wine Barbaresco Gaja 2021

Zuppa Inglese and biscotti

Wine: Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Zenato

Source:  La Scolca Wines