Firriato “Gaudensius”: A Collection of Impressive Sparkling Wines from this Etna Producer

A few weeks ago, I had an amazing tasting experience with Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, COO of Firriato Winery, and Rossella Marino Abate, Consulente presso Firriato at Riserva Bistrot at the beautiful Cavanera Wine Resort.  Federico gave me an extensive overview of the four different expressions of their sparkling wine label “Gaudensius”.

Cavanera Wine Resort

Cavanera and its surrounding vineyards are among the most beautiful in the area. We had views of one of Firriato’s treasures, their pre-phyilloxera vineyards, with an age, determined by a dendrochronological analysis, which has certified the age of the vines to be well over 150 years. Cavanera Etnea is Italy’s first carbon neutral winery and is highly recognized for its bio-architecture.

Gaudensius – Volcanic Line

The Nerello Mascalese and Carricante varieties are grown on specific slopes on Mount Etna, which give a substantial impact on the characteristics, as well as the Etna terroir, with its mesoclimate and its sandy soils of volcanic – these all offer ideal conditions for sparkling wine.

The combination of the pedoclimatic characteristics of Etna contributes to the development of grapes that are characterized by the intensity of the aromas and aromatic finesse.

The Gaudensius label now offers four different types of sparkling wines: Blanc de noir (Etna Doc Metodo Classico Brut made with Nerello mascalese grapes, Blanc de blancs (from Carricante grapes), Rosè, also Etna Doc from Nerello Mascalese and Pas Dosè.

The Gaudensius label is the culmination of a sparkling wine project that now makes Firriato the most important producer of the classic method on Etna.

Here are my tasting notes and other details of the four Gaudensius wines, which are produced from Nerello Mascalese and Caricante, two historical native varieties growing under the volcano.

 NV Gaudensius Blanc de Blancs

Classification: Terre Siciliane Bianco Spumante

Grape Variety: Carricante 100%

Subzone: Zucconerò, Zottorinotto, Imbischi

Exposure: North (650 m a.s.l)

Soil: Volcanic, highly draining in the Cavanera Etnea estate

Training System: Guyot, permanent cordon

Harvest: Hand-picking, 2nd week of October for Carricante

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled

temperature, second fermentation in bottle

Disgorgement: 2021

Production Method: Classic method

Aging: In bottle, in contact with the yeasts for over 36 months

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.60 % vol.

Pale straw yellow in color; the nose is fresh, elegant yet complex with notes of white fruits, hazelnuts and honey, enhanced by some wonderful mineral sensations; In the mouth, it is delicate, elegant and concentrated, with a long persistence on the palate and good aromatic persistence with a savory finish perlage: fine and concentrated
Overall, a great personality – dry crisp, light with a clean finish

91/100

 

NV Gaudensius Blanc de Noir

Classification: D.O.C. Etna Spumante

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Sant’Antonio – Cottanera

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (650 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Alberello Etneo

Harvest: Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled temperature

Disgorgement: 2021

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 36 months with frequent “Coup de poignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.60 %

Pale straw yellow with some elements of bright gold hues; delivers some intense fruit and delicate Sicilian citrus notes on the nose; complex flavor, good structure – remarkable elegance; long-lasting sapid with mineral persistence – the freshness is ornamented with sense of nut and toast; perlage: fine and concentrated – an outstanding wine

92/100

 

NV Gaudensius Rosé Etna

Classification: D.O.C. Etna Spumante

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (630 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Alberello Etneo

Harvest: Hand-picked. Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and slight skin maceration. Fermentation at controlled temperature

Disgorgement: 2020

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 24 months with frequent “Coup depoignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.50 % vol.

This wine takes on transparent shades of pale peach and pink; aromas of strawberries and raspberries are quite exquisite, with some light floral notes; on the palate imparts fresh, caressing sensations; a well-balanced wine, with good structure and acidity; an extremely prolonged aromatic persistence

91/100

 

Gaudensius Pas Dose

Classification: IGT Terre Siciliane

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (650 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Traditional Gobelet from Etna

Harvest: Hand-picked. Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled

temperature

Disgourgement: 2021

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 48 months with frequent “Coup de

poignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate
Dosage: Pas dosè

Alcohol: 12.50 % vol.

Production: 3,000 bottles produced

Pale golden yellow in colour; very fine bubbles transported me to complex and a harmonious nose of white flowers, orange peel, lime, bread, and nuts; on the palate there is a beautiful savory trail of Sicilian citrus with mineral persistence – long lingering finish; A wonderful olfactory complex wine

94/100

” The demand for Etna wines is growing and is moving towards increasingly identifying and medium-high range choices ” said Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, Coo di Firriato.

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Sicilia en Primeur 2022…. It’s a Wrap!

What an amazing experience attending Sicilia en Primeur 2022!  Assovini Sicilia has certainly set the bar high for its eighteenth edition, and I believe the attending journalists will attest that this.

By the Numbers

This year is the 18th edition. In attendance were 80 national and international journalists. There were 7 wine tours, over 500 wines tasted, and 1 Masterclass.

After two years, the itinerant event organized and produced by Assovini Sicilia, was held in Erice, in the historical venue “Centro di Cultura Scientifica Ettore Majorana.” The medieval town of Erice has previous welcomed journalists, scientists, scholars, institutions, and enologists.

Inaugural Conference – some highlights 

The conference and opening of Sicilia en Primeur 2022 was held on April 30 with renowned Journalist Massimo Giletti as the host and various guest speakers giving their technical-scientific presentations on the theme “Back to the roots. Sicily experiencing the future.” Including a presentation by Professor Antonio Zoccoli, (President of the National Institute of Nuclear Physics) “Wine is also physics, and neutrino detectors are useful to unmask wine frauds” and he further states that “There is no wine without neutrino.”

Professor Marco Moriondo (Institute of Bioeconomics of CNR in Florence) states “Wine-growing Sicily is less exposed to climate change thanks to its soils, terroir, biodiversity and microclimates.”

Enologist Mattia Filippi and founder of Uva Sapiens states “Sicily is nowadays enjoying a privileged condition and its viticulture structure is so strictly connected with its traditions that a series of productive variables are extremely relevant also with regard to climate change.”

The Mayor of Erice, Daniela Toscano, along with Lorenzo Zichichi, both hosts of the “Centro di Cultura Scientifica Ettore Majorana”, mentioned the historical and scientific vocation of the medieval town of Erice.

Laurent de la Gatinais, the President of Assovini Sicilia, spoke of Sicily as “a miniature continent. Its diversity will be the key of our future. Therefore, we need to focus on vine, its study, its development. It has always been said that the human factor is fundamental in the production cycle, and today I strongly believe that it is more and more actual and understood as science, knowledge, and know-how. This is the only way we can tackle important issues, such as that of climate change. Assovini Sicilia wants to be the advocate and pioneer in leading the future of Sicilian viticulture following new models.”

“Sicily is today the largest organic wine area in Italy” comments Antonio Rallo, the President of Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia. It is a territory that by its very nature identifies sustainability as the keystone of the Sicilian viticulture system. This is the direction to where the industry of the island is moving, towards quality wines, authentic and recognizable in their identity and sustainable throughout the whole production process.”

Sicilia en Primeur is not only an important event for the Sicilian wine industry. It is also a perfect opportunity to showcase Sicily’s viticulture and historical-archaeological heritage through its wine tours. Stay tune for my updates on the wine tour.

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The Balio Gardens – Erice Sicily

A few days ago we had an amazing lunch with local specialities, accompanied with some lovely Sicilian wines on the grounds of The Balio Gardens, Erice.

Some History and Viewpoints

The Balio Gardens are built in 1872 by Conte Pepoli around the Castle of Venus. The gardens are of English design and style.

While enjoying our incredible lunch at the various stations around the castle, we are welcomed with stunning panoramic views of the Gulf of Trapani, salt pans of Trapani, Egadi Archipelago and the coast of Marsala. Apparently, on a clear day, it is possible to see Capo Bon, North East Tunisia.

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