‘Champagne – Happy Birthday!!’ [August 4, 1693: Dom Pérignon ‘Drinks the Stars’]

August 4 is said to be the day Dom Pérignon invented Champagne back in 1693. In fact this bubbly trivia stirs up quite a bit of discussion regarding the fact that naturally occurring bubbles were seen as a problem at the time to whether or not his famous quote of ‘drinking with the stars’ is fictional or factual – No matter really.

What stands out the most is that Champagne has almost an omnipresence in our culture!

Liz Palmer

LVMH HAS ANNOUNCED OCTOBER 15TH AND 16TH AS ‘BEHIND-THE-SCENES DAYS’

Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy has announced ‘Behind-The-Scenes Days’ at their European artisan workshops, ateliers, and vineyards for two days in October.

WWD reports that on the 15th and 16th of October the public will be able to experience what happens behind the doors of the luxury conglomerate’s brands which include fashion houses Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, and Dior, jewelry maker De Beers, and Champagne labels Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon.

Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH has recently stated: “Products are one thing, but how they’re made, who makes them, and where is also of interest to the public.”

LVMH is not the first luxury house to come up with this idea of “behind-the-scenes days”, last year Gucci toured the world with its Artisan Project, showcasing its production methods.

Most of events will take place in France and workshops are planned for locations in Italy, Spain, Scotland, and Poland. More information will be released later this month when bookings will go live online.

List of Participating Properties:
Christian Dior Couture, Salon de Haute Couture, Paris
Parfums Christian Dior, Siège Parfums Christian Dior, Paris
Louis Vuitton, Ateliers d’Asnières, Asnières
Berluti, Salons Berluti, Paris
Givenchy Couture, Studio de Création, Paris
Kenzo Mode et Kenzo Parfum, Showroom, Paris
Emilio Pucci, Archives, Italy
Loewe, Showroom, Madrid, Spain
Chaumet, Salons Chaumet, Paris
Guerlain, Maison Guerlain, Paris
Moët & Chandon, Résidence de Trianon, Epernay, Champagne
Dom Pérignon, Abbaye d’Hautvillers, Hautvillers, Champagne
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Hôtel du Marc et Pavillon de Muire, Reims, Champagne
Champagne cellars of Maison Krug and Maison Ruinart, Reims, Champagne
Hennessy, Château de Bagnolet, Poitou, Charentes, Cognac
Chai de la Faïencerie, Poitou, Charentes, Cognac
Quais Hennessy, Poitou, Charentes, Cognac
The Glenmorangie Company, The Glenmorangie Distillery, Scotland
Belvédère, Belvedere Distillery, Poland
Château Cheval Blanc, Aquitaine
Château d’Yquem, Aquitaine
La Grande Epicerie de Paris, Paris
Le Jardin d’Acclimatation, Maison de Kiso, Paris

Moët & Chandon Drops Dosage in Brut Imperial

Moët & Chandon will be lowering the dosage of its market-leading Brut Impérial from 12 grams per litre to 9 g/l according to its chef de cave Benoît Gouez.
 This follows the decision by Dom Pérignon’s chef de cave Richard Geoffroy, who recently gradually lowered the sugar levels on the prestige cuvée champagnes. Geoffroy said, “There has been a strategy of lowering the dosage in the last 10 years and we are now between 6 and 7 g/l.”
 This decision by the biggest brand in the region follows a global trend towards adding less sugar to the world-famous fizz.
Partly explaining this development is kinder weather in Champagne, giving riper and more complex fruit with less reliance on a conventional dosage of between 10-12 g/l.
Michael Edwards from Drinks Business states “Even climate change skeptics cannot deny that, since 1990, harvests have progressively begun two to three weeks earlier than in the ’70s and ’80s – in better-tended, eco-friendly vineyards, under warmer autumnal skies.”
As for the right level of sugar, opinions vary, but a balance appears to have been struck between 6-8 g/l, ensuring there is enough sugar to enhance the Champagne’s aromas but also protect the wine from premature oxidation. (this is an important statement as sugar helps the wine from premature oxidation.
Philippe Thieffry, senior winemaker at Veuve Clicquot, says “If the Champagne has a moderate dosage – 6-8 g/l – and is well protected by SO2, it will release the same bouquet as one traditionally dosed at 10-12 g/l; it will not suffer oxidation.”
Below 6-8 g/l however, and Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, vice-president at Louis Roederer, says “you reach an oxidative stage that quickly changes the fruit and aromas of the wine.”

TOP CHAMPAGNES IN BUSINESS AND FIRST CLASS – announced last month at The Business Traveller Cellars in the Sky Awards

The Business Traveller Cellars in the Sky Awards have been running since 1985, with a record number of 36 airlines taking part this year. Blind tastings took place over two days on November 4 and 5 at the Grosvenor House, London, with five judges independently scoring. The judges included:

• Charles Metcalfe, TV wine presenter and co-chairman of the
International Wine Challenge;

• Sam Harrop, Master of Wine and winemaking consultant;

• Derek Smedley, Master of Wine for more than 40 years,
consultant and co-chairman of the International Wine Challenge;

• Peter McCombie, Master of Wine, accredited tutor for the Wine and
Spirit Education Trust and consultant; and

• John Worontschak, leading winemaker and wine business development
consultant.

Business Class Sparkling

1. Qatar Airways – Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle 1996;

2. Etihad – Henriot Blanc Souverain;

3. and
4. (JOINT) British Airways, Qantas and Singapore Airlines –
Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve AND LAN – Louis Roederer Brut Premier; and

5. Jet Airways – Dom Pérignon 2002.

First Class Sparkling

1. Qantas – Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1999;

2. United Airlines – Henriot Brut Millésimé 1996;

3. (JOINT) Qatar Airways, All Nippon Airways and Cathay Pacific –
Krug Grande Cuvée;

4. Thai Airways – Bollinger 1999; and

5. Malaysia Airlines and Jet Airways – Dom Pérignon 2002.

Participating Airlines:

Aer Lingus, Aegean Airlines, Air Astana, Air Canada, Air New Zealand, Alitalia, American Airlines, All Nippon Airlines, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Brussels Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Delta Air Lines, El Al, Etihad, Emirates, Finnair, Gulf Air, Iberia, Jet Airways, Kenya Airways, Kingfisher Airlines, Korean Air, LAN, Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Oman Air, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Swiss, South African Airways, TAM, Thai Airways and United Airlines.

Liz Palmer

HOW TO READ A CHAMPAGNE LABEL

Champagne labeling laws differ from other parts of France because the entire region falls under a single AOP, the protected term ‘Champagne’ and the wines are categorized according to styles rather than designations. Here the status of the producer is more important than the vineyard sites.

To distinguish between the numerous different styles, Champagne labels use a range of terms as described below.

* Level of sweetness:
o Ultra Brut – Bone dry or very dry
o Brut – Dry
o Sec – Literally dry but has higher sugar level than Brut
o Demi-sec – Medium dry
o Doux – Sweet

* Non-vintage: A Champagne made from a blend of wines from different years.

Some Champagne houses may use up to hundred reserve wines from previous years to produce a consistent house style.

* Vintage: A champagne made from a single year’s harvest. The label must show the year of the harvest.

* Blanc de Blancs: This term on the label means that the Champagne has been produced entirely from white grapes, in other words, Chardonnay.

* Blanc de Noirs: Refers to Champagne made from black grape varieties (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier).

* Rosé: This is often made by blending a little red wine with whites.

* Grande Marque: Means ‘Great Brand’. A producer may use this term but according to AOP rules does not guarantee quality or any style.

* Cuvée de Prestige: These are the top-of-the-range releases from the Champagne houses and may come with a vintage on the label. Some examples include ‘Dom Pérignon’ from Moët et Chandon, ‘Cristal’ from Louis Roederer and ‘La Grande Dame’ from Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin.

* Marque d’Acheteur: Means ‘Buyer’s Own Brand’. These are often seen on Champagnes sold within a retail or supermarket chain that sells them using their own brand name.

Apart from these there are other non-mandatory terms that may appear on the label that specify type of Champagne producers, maturation time etc.

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