Tag: French Wine

Historic Shake-Up: Château Lafleur Exits the Pomerol Appellation

Château Lafleur announced a few days ago that it is withdrawing from both the Pomerol AOC and wider Bordeaux designation from the 2025 vintage, with all six wines in the Société Civile du Château Lafleur group set to become Vins de France.

Here are some excerpts from the Guinaudeau family Letter:

“Climate is changing fast and hard, that much is clear. The vintages 2015, 2019, and above all 2022, were all strong evidence of that. 2025 goes a step further. We must think, readapt, act.”

“Our decision-making and the resulting practices are in fact evolving much faster than what is authorised in our Appellations of Origine system.”

“Consequently, while maintaining the utmost respect for our fellow producers and the appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux, we have decided to cease adhering to the appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux beginning with the 2025 vintage.”

“The six wines of Société Civile du Château Lafleur will be designated as Vin de France beginning with the 2025 vintage.”

Fresh Perspectives: The White and Rosé Evolution of Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages

Traditionally celebrated for their structured reds, Côtes du Rhône (CDR) and Côtes du Rhône Villages (CDRV) are gaining prominence for an unexpected yet compelling shift: the emergence of their white and rosé wine!  Although representing less than 10% of total production, these whites are capturing the attention of sommeliers and wine lovers for their aromatic complexity and nuanced expressions.

This evolution rests upon three foundational elements: a diverse range of terroirs, an expansive array of authorized grape varieties, and the meticulous craft of blending. Together, these factors enable a palette of expressions and styles, from crisp and lively whites to rich and complex expressions, and from delicate, aromatic rosés to full-bodied, gastronomic wines.

WHITE WINES: FROM BRIGHT TO STRUCTURED

FRESH & LIVELY

Key grape varieties include Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Piquepoul Blanc. Grown on cool, often clay-based soils, grapes are harvested early to preserve freshness and acidity while keeping alcohol levels in check. Fermentation occurs at low temperatures (12–18°C) and in oxygen-free environments to retain varietal aromas of citrus, flowers, and white fruit, with typical grapefruit notes. The palate is lively, fresh, and balanced, perfect as an aperitif or paired with summer salads and goat cheese.

FRUITY & ROUND

A richer interpretation, featuring grapes like Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, and Roussanne, sourced from various terroirs. Harvested at optimal ripeness, these wines are vinified at 12–18°C to maintain freshness and aromatic expression. Expect notes of exotic and stone fruits (mango, peach, apricot), with a round mouthfeel balanced by bright acidity. Excellent with ceviche, roast poultry, or soft cheeses.

RICH & COMPLEX

Whites that leave a lasting impression. Made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Carignan Blanc, Marsanne, and Roussanne, these wines come from diverse terroirs and are harvested at more advanced ripeness without becoming over-concentrated. They often undergo extended aging, frequently in oak. The aromatic profile is complex, combining ripe, stewed, or candied fruits, dried fruits, spices, and minerality, with occasional toasty, honeyed, or woody notes. The palate is rich and round with great length, perfect for full meals and with excellent aging potential.

ROSÉ WINES: TWO DISTINCT EXPRESSIONS

FRUITY & DELICATE

These rosés are primarily made from Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan, sometimes with authorized white varieties to enhance acidity. Grown on cool sites and harvested early to preserve freshness and keep alcohol low. Vinified by direct pressing or short maceration, these wines reveal intense aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, and candy. The palate is light, balanced, and refreshing. Best enjoyed young and ideal as an aperitif.

FRUITY & FULL BODIED

A more traditional, full-bodied rosé that emphasizes roundness, balance, and terroir expression. Made mostly from Syrah, with Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault, these wines are harvested at full ripeness. Vinified by direct pressing or short saignée, they showcase ripe red fruit, delicate floral notes, and soft spices. The palate is structured and concentrated with good length and a deeper hue—a gastronomic rosé to enjoy within two years.

A New Chapter for the Rhône
From the high-altitude vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône to the sun-drenched slopes of the Côtes du Rhône Villages, these white and rosé wines now stand as a compelling reflection of the region’s heritage and its evolving winemaking identity. Fresh, elegant, and character-driven, they invite rediscovery and present a valuable opportunity for trade professionals seeking hidden gems with a strong sense of place.

Tasting Notes from the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages

To complement the rich discussion of the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages’ evolving whites and rosés, here are three standout examples from the 2023 and 2024 vintages that capture the essence of this movement.

Cellier des Dauphins Prestige Rosé 2024 – 90 Points / Liz Palmer
A luminous pale pink hue introduces this elegant rosé, which reveals delicate aromas of fresh strawberries and redcurrant, with subtle floral undertones. The palate delivers a crisp and balanced expression of red berry fruit, complemented by a fine mineral spine with a long fruit-driven finish. An ideal example of the Côtes du Rhône rosé style, refreshing, poised, and effortlessly approachable.

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2024 – 91 Points / Liz Palmer
A classic Côtes du Rhône blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Roussanne, this wine captures the vibrancy of the region. The nose unfolds with fragrant aromas of white flowers, ripe pear, and stone fruit. The palate is energetic and crisp, offering a harmonious interplay of fruit and floral notes, supported by a rounded, well-structured body with a long, elegant finish. An excellent example of the aromatic precision and balance that define Rhône whites.

Gabriel Meffre Laurus Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023 – 93 Points / Liz Palmer
A captivating nose of honeysuckle, stone fruit, and citrus zest evolves beautifully in this premium Côtes du Rhône blanc. The palate delivers a rich and textural experience, with flavours of juicy peach, crisp apple, and preserved lemon, framed by a luminous acidity with a delicate, mineral undertone. The finish is long, complex, and richly rewarding, making this a compelling example of the depth and aging potential that the best whites of the region can achieve.

New Findings Establish Historical Continuity Between Versailles Vineyard and 18th-Century Winemaking Practice 

A centuries-old vineyard in Versailles dating back to 1787 has been brought back to life by Adrien Pélissié, a former Bordeaux winegrower and now owner of La Bouche du Roi winery in Versailles. While looking through historic regional maps, Pélissié made a remarkable discovery: the vineyard he planted in 2017, in the unusual shape of a shark’s fin, matched the exact location and layout of one marked on an 18th-century map, created 230 years earlier.

In the 17th century, the Île-de-France was France’s largest winegrowing region, with vineyards stretching across tens of thousands of hectares. However, by the early 20th century, viticulture in the region had virtually vanished. Any hope of bringing it back was quashed by French regulations brought in during the 1950s, which restricted commercial viticulture in Versailles and other parts of the country. That changed on January 1, 2016, when new EU regulations lifted restrictions on vineyard planting rights, paving the way for the revival of the region’s historic vineyards.

Pélissié states: “I was really moved when I realized that someone had planted vines in the exact same spot, hundreds of years ago. The vineyard even has the same distinctive shape—it curves like a shark’s fin. It’s a humbling thought, that someone back then saw the same potential in this land that we do today. We feel very fortunate to be part of the story of this place, bringing viticulture back to the region and honoring the French tradition that came before us.”

The discovery was made using the Plans d’Intendance, detailed cartographic surveys commissioned under Louis XV and Louis XVI. The specific map that revealed the vineyard’s past was dated 1787.

Today, the renaissance of viticulture in Île-de-France is well underway. Around 130 hectares (320 acres) of vines are now planted across the region, with La Bouche du Roi leading the charge. Situated in the former royal hunting grounds of the Plaine de Versailles—just 30 minutes from Paris—it is the region’s largest vineyard, spanning 27 hectares (67 acres).

About La Bouche du Roi

Founded in 2017 by Adrien Pélissié, La Bouche du Roi is a pioneering estate located just 30 minutes from Paris, on the historic Plaine de Versailles—the former hunting grounds of the Kings of France. The 27-hectare (67-acre) vineyard is farmed organically and planted with six grape varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc for whites; Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc for reds. The winery, which French newspaper Le Figaro called the “most remarkable” discovery of 2024, welcomes visitors by appointment.

The estate takes its name from La Bouche du Roi, the esteemed royal household service responsible for overseeing the King’s table, including the sommeliers, cupbearers, and chefs who ensured the quality of food and wine served at the court of Versailles.

La Bouche du Roi is distributed via Bordeaux négociants (La Place de Bordeaux). In the United States, its wines are exclusively imported by Maison Barrière and are available in several states. They can be found in restaurants such as PerSe by Thomas Keller (New York), restaurants by Alain Ducasse (Paris), and Lafayette in Miami.

Two of the estate’s labels are also featured on Wine.com, making them easily accessible to consumers nationwide.

Legendary Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Releases His Latest Book “Multidimensional Wine”

Gérard Bertrand has just released his latest book Multidimensional Wine. In his book, Gérard Bertrand presents more than just an exploration of wine; he offers an intimate journey into a life deeply entwined with the vine. As the proud inheritor of a winemaking legacy, Bertrand has built a global reputation by blending his family heritage with an ambitious goal to elevate the wines of Languedoc to the world stage. Bertrand invites you to discover how he has made a global impact while staying rooted in the traditions of his homeland, Corbières, France.

Multidimensional Wine is far from a technical guide to winemaking it’s a personal odyssey, a fusion of expertise and sensory experience, with each page resonating like a note in a symphony Bertrand shares the secrets of his craft with remarkable honesty, reflecting on biodiversity, biodynamic viticulture, and the role of wine in contemporary society. His narrative captures the true essence of his work and his lifelong passion for wine.

” Blending is the Everest of every winemaker, the vertical opera that every year requires questioning, preparation, and the conquest of a new face of the same mountain. There is nothing more beautiful, more exhilarating in this profession. “  Gerard Bertrand

About Gérard Bertrand

Gérard Bertrand is a renowned winemaker committed to viticulture in harmony with nature. Over the past 35 years, he has transformed his family vineyard in the south of France into a global benchmark for excellence and biodynamics, elevating the wines of his region to rank among the world’s finest. Gérard Bertrand is also the author of two previous books: Wine, Moon and Stars and Nature at Heart.

For further details: https://shorturl.at/mwlXs

New Leadership to Foster Growth and Recognition for Vins du Centre-Loire

The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre-Loire (BIVC) has ushered in a new chapter with the appointment of François Bouteille as its Director, succeeding Edouard Mognetti. With a strong background in vine and wine law, a degree in business law, and intellectual property from Bordeaux University, Bouteille brings extensive expertise to the role. His wine industry journey began with the Champagne Trade Association, followed by a consulting firm in Australia that specialized in appellation protection. Most recently, Bouteille held the directorship at the Vouvray Syndicate, where he worked closely with regional winegrowers to elevate their profiles on both local and global stages.

Bouteille is determined to champion the values of independent winegrowers while promoting the diverse terroirs and appellations of Centre-Loire wines. His strategic vision focuses on enhancing the region’s economic research initiatives to identify new markets and diversify its offerings.

“I am convinced that the vineyards of Centre-Loire are poised for greater recognition. The immense potential of our wines resonates with enthusiasts across all generations, both in France and internationally,” Bouteille said.

He emphasized that the BIVC’s technical and promotional strategies will continue to support the sustainable growth of the region’s eight appellations and two IGPs. The appeal of single grape variety wines offers an approachable entry point for consumers, fostering a deeper exploration of the region’s unique mosaic of terroirs.

Source: (BIVC)