Exploring Irpinia: Italy’s Hidden Gem of Natural Beauty and Winemaking Excellence

Campania is the region of southern Italy that includes the magnificent active volcano Vesuvius, stunning seaside towns and villages like those of the sunny Amalfi coast, the unique city of Naples, fascinating ancient sites such as Pompeii and the crystal-clear blue waters of Capri and other islands. There is much more to this region – Inland Campania shows a different character with striking landscapes encompassing wooded hillsides, winding rivers, majestic mountains and cool breezes that contrast greatly with the warm coastal areas – this area is known as Irpinia.

WHERE IS IRPINIA?

Irpinia, from the local word hurpos, wolves, covers the entire province of Avellino, 60 km east of Naples. The origin of the word Irpinia says a lot about the area and its people. The people of Irpinia are not fishermen like those you find in Positano and other villages on the coast, but shepherds. They are strong, stubborn people, tied firmly to their roots and very different from the open personalities of those living by the sea.

The lands of Irpinia are highly varied and cover approximately 3,000 sq.km with the main city, Avellino, in the southwest. Nearby are the tuff quarries of Tufo, hill towns such as Montefalcione and Rocca San Felice, and the plateau of Ariano Irpino is further north. Irpinia shares borders with the Puglia region (which forms the heel of Italy’s boot) to the northeast, the province of Benevento to the northwest, Naples to the west and Salerno to the south, with the Vulture area, well-known for its Aglianico, to the east.

The mountains reach an altitude of 1800m asl, shelter the area from warm winds coming from the sea, creating a cool climate with steep day-night temperature swings that are ideal for viticulture.

WINE AREAS

Irpinia is the green heart of Campania, but above all it is a wine region, with an impressive concentration of excellence. In fact, three of the Campania region’s four DOCG wines are produced here, including the oldest DOCG of southern Italy: Taurasi which gained the denomination in 1993. Irpinia’s other two DOCGs are the whites Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo, both certified in 2003.

Another denomination, Irpinia DOC, which has been in place since 2005, covers an area including 118 towns, while the Campi Taurasini DOC area includes only 24 towns, 17 of which are also included in the red Taurasi DOCG area.

GRAPES & WINES

The Aglianico grape is Irpinia’s flagship red, although other red varieties are grown here too, such as Piedirosso and Sciascinoso. Aglianico is the main grape of the DOCG Taurasi denomination with a minimum 85% of the blend (although most of producers make 100% Aglianico wines) and a minimum of 12 months aging in wooden vessels.

Aglianico is a difficult grape to grow: it’s late ripening, its thin skin is prone to mildew and it can be challenging to harvest this grape with several vineyard passages required in order to pick healthy grapes. It’s a difficult variety to manage in terms of winemaking too: when young, it tends to be tannic, acidic, rather harsh and sometimes rustic. Aglianico is certainly one for patient drinkers and lovers of the variety who need to give the wine the time it deserves. It’s very much a food wine and pairs perfectly with the local food which has many pork-based dishes, tasty cheeses, mushrooms and hearty soups.

Fiano is a very versatile grape, one of Italy’s great whites with an excellent reputation among producers and critics, for its elegance, age-ability and the concentration of terpenes that make it a semi-aromatic variety. The Fiano di Avellino DOCG production zone covers 26 municipal areas in a wide area with a range of different soils, aspects and altitudes making for very different styles of wine.

Fiano is a grape that adapts easily to different conditions and recently it has even been planted outside Italy in areas including California and Australia.

Greco is the alter ego of Fiano. The two white grapes share some similarities, including a long history – both are very ancient grapes and both are the main varieties for the two DOCG whites of Irpinia, respectively Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino.

Greco however has completely different characteristics from Fiano. It’s grown in the territories of only eight towns in volcanic, yellow tuff soils. The wines are intensely coloured wine with great minerality, saltiness and complex depth.

IRPINIA – QUICK FACTS

Irpinia produces about 28% of the Campania region’s wines.

In 2005 Robert Parker said, “Aglianico is next big thing”.

There are several biotypes of Aglianico, including one for Taurasi and also Aglianico del Taburno and Aglianico del Vulture.

Aglianico, Fiano and Greco are among Italy’s most ancient grape varieties, brought over from Greece thousands of years ago.

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe in Irpinia was ranked 14th overall in the 2024 World’s Best Vineyards awards – the best in Italy.

A destination for wine connoisseurs and oenophiles to discover the secrets behind some of southern Italy’s finest micro-wineries.

The Irpinia wine region has developed rapidly in recent years, with the two major players, Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio, sharing the market with small niche wineries, some of them specializing in single-vineyard wines.

Although Irpinia is just an hour’s drive from Naples, it still plays second fiddle to the better-known destinations of the Campania region such as the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, Vesuvius, and so on, while at the same time having great potential flows of tourism.

For this reason, many family-run wineries, each with their own distinctive characters, have started to offer authentic wine experiences.

Thanks to this mix of visionary producers, independent family-run wineries, contemporary or traditional estates and revolutionary winemakers, Irpinia has become one of Italy’s most fascinating wine areas, particularly for its whites.

The local tourism scene is developing steadily through joint ventures and new openings of hotels and resorts. Wine therapy and wine spas are another aspect that’s growing in this hilly area, and both private investments and European funding are increasingly oriented towards boosting tourism in the area.

Along with the increasing success of Irpinia’s wine production, this patch of land has developed a genuine and positive attitude towards hospitality and there are numerous services on offer in terms of hospitality and incoming experiences. Visitors can choose to stay at a cosy B&B, a charming countryside farmhouse or a luxury resort and vineyard tours, lunch in the barrel room or meeting with the winemakers are among the most popular wine experiences offered by wineries.

Irpinia is a perfect destination both for visitors who want to immerse themselves in the authentic local culture and for those looking for an adventurous off-the-beaten-track experience.

WINERIES per la sezione hospitality

  • Feudi di San Gregorio
  • Mastroberardino
  • Tenuta Cavalier Pepe
  • Cantine di Marzo
  • Fonzone
  • Tenuta del Meriggio
  • Villa Raiano
  • Tenuta Scuotto
  • Di Meo===============
    Filippo Magnani,
    Wine Tourism Expert

Italy’s Wine Exports Soar: September 2024 Analysis

Italy, the world’s wine epicentre, achieved remarkable milestones in September 2024, solidifying its position as a leader in global wine export by volume. Italian wines, renowned for their diversity, quality, and rich heritage, have captivated audiences worldwide. Below, I delve into the top ten markets driving the success of Italian wine exports, offering insights into evolving consumer preferences and cultural affinities.

Top 10 Export Markets for Italian Wine

  1. United States (24%)
    The U.S. retains its spot as the largest consumer of Italian wines, reflecting the American love for iconic varietals like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo. This quarter’s exports showcase Italy’s deep-rooted influence on American wine culture, particularly among millennials and Gen X.
  2. United Kingdom (20%)
    The U.K. remains a steadfast partner, with British consumers eagerly reaching for Italian reds and sparkling wines. Despite global economic shifts, Italy’s premium selections charm the British palate.
  3. Germany (6%)
    With its sophisticated and detail-oriented wine culture, Germany steadily increases its consumption of Italian wine, notably organic and sustainable vintages, which appeal to eco-conscious drinkers.
  4. Russia (5%)
    While geopolitical complexities persist, Italy’s wines maintain a foothold in Russia, where European vintages are steadily gaining traction among urban elites.
  5. France (5%)
    In an intriguing market dynamic, Italy’s wine exports to France underscore cross-border appreciation. French consumers favour distinctive Italian wines like Amarone and Nero d’Avola, offering a complement to their domestic preferences.
  6. Canada (5%)
    Canada, with its multicultural demographic, remains a valuable partner for Italy’s export growth. The popularity of Italian wine among Canadians reflects shared values of quality and craftsmanship.
  7. Belgium (4%)
    Belgium’s rich culinary heritage and established wine traditions make it a loyal market for Italian vintages. Prosecco, in particular, enjoys increasing favour in celebratory settings.
  8. Switzerland (3%)
    Swiss buyers lean towards high-end Italian wines, often pairing them with fine dining experiences. This market highlights a preference for both tradition and exclusivity.
  9. Latvia (3%)
    Latvia represents a rising star in Italy’s export landscape. Growing interest in medium-priced wines signals a burgeoning sophistication in wine culture.
  10. Austria (2%)
    Rounding out the top ten, Austria’s wine market reflects its preference for regional balance and traditional winemaking, aligning perfectly with Italy’s offerings.

The Road Ahead

Italy’s wine sector continues to explore untapped markets while deepening its ties with existing ones. Exporters are leveraging storytelling, wine tourism, and sustainability credentials to maintain Italy’s edge in a competitive global market.

Source: Italy’s National Institute of Statistics (Istat)

Sicilia En Primeur: Celebrating 25 Years of Assovini Sicilia’s Unified Vision for Sicilian Producers – Filippo Magnani

May 9th and 10th, the Sicilian wine community achieved a new milestone in Cefalù, Sicily with over 100 wine journalists and 59 wineries who convened to explore and evaluate over 300 labels, participate in five masterclasses, and embark on ten curated wine tours.

For over 25 years Sicilia En Primeur has been celebrating the evolution of a diverse wine region on the Mediterranean’s largest island – Its history, culture, traditions and food are as rich as they are diverse.

Some History
Assovini Sicilia was founded 25 years ago by Diego Planeta, Lucio Tasca d’Almerita and Giacomo Rallo who launched an association and has since grown in membership and international success due to their visionary and collaborative approach. The theme of this year’s event was “ Cultivating The Future” which focused on the evolution of Sicilian wine, its cultural value, wine tourism, and future prospects, with participation from journalists, producers, and industry representatives. Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia, emphasized how the association has promoted a contemporary and dynamic image of Sicily, making it a brand of significant cultural value and international appeal. The association’s success is based on innovation and adaptability, integrating new generations into company management roles and focusing on sustainability and wine tourism. Particular emphasis was on the role of the new generation of wine production in Sicily and illustrated with the poignant video entitled “Next Generation”.

The event was moderated by the prestigious journalist Gioacchino Bonsignore (TG5 Mediaset) and featured presentations from an all-star cast such as the one of Monica Larner, Italian reviewer, Robert Parker Wine Advocate who presented the Trends and Perception of Sicilian Wine in the US Market; a glance at the Past to Imagine the Future in the vineyard by Alessio Planeta, CEO Planeta winery; The Story of a Thriving Partnership by Antonio Rallo, President of the Consortium for the Protection of Sicilia DOC; The New Frontiers of Green and the Experience of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation with Alberto Tasca, President of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation and even more including the ambassador of Sicilian culture Regoli, Director of WineNews.

In addition to the conference, Sicilia En Primeur organized their yearly wine tours of the territory which gives participants a chance to delve deeper into the multitude of Sicily’s wine zones, discovering their evolution and the new frontiers of each area. I have had the chance to explore the central-southern part of the island. So, along with the prominent Nero d’Avola, the identity of Sicily in red in different versions (rosé, sparkling, fruity and light or more structured reds); there were also the whites especially Catarratto in which many producers of the area specifically believe in for the production of wonderful Classic Method Sparkling wine especially at high altitude; I could taste different versions of my beloved Frappato with its versatility and captivating juicy character also able to produce rosé, delicious bubbles or it is blended with the generally more concentrated Nero d’Avola for a perfect balance.

Campania Stories 2024 – A Memorable Experience

Campania Stories, one of the most significant wine events in southern Italy, took place this year in Sannio on the northern edge of Campania from May 21st to 25th. The 12th edition welcomed wine writers and other trade professionals.

This year was an incredible success with over 90 wineries who submitted their samples to a wide audience of international bloggers, journalists and wine critics. The setting could not be more beautiful as the event consists of a journey through the main wine areas of a region known by visitors for the beautiful Amalfi Coast and the vibrant city of Naples.

Sannio just north of the Naples, the town of Dugenta hosted the event at the luxury resort, Tenute del Gheppio. Producers had the opportunity to present their latest white wines along with their Riservas. Presentation of the 2023 vintage was led by Francesco Martusciello, one of the flying winemakers of the region, at Rocca dei Rettori di Benevento, in cooperation with Assoenologi. Francesco Martusciello emphasized the 2023 vintage trend which was an uneven year with limited production but of very high quality. The whites were a perfect example with their predominant fermentative aromas that will certainly dissipate with time to show the true character of the grape.

We also enjoyed an in-depth journey through Campania to see producers in their element visiting estates in Sannio and Irpinia where they discovered the landscapes of smooth hills, mainly of clay, with expansive vineyards divided by the main rivers of Calore in Irpinia, and Volturno in North Sannio. These visits were made possible in part by the close collaboration of Miriade & Partners headed by Diana Cataldo, Massimo Iannaccone and Serena Valerian.

This is an area known for is great viticulture, since the Roman times when it was known as Campania Felix. A place where Roman heritage is still evident with the discovery of several amphoras and tools for winemaking, but also marked by incredible buildings dating back the 18th century, such as the majestic Carolino aqueduct that dominates the valley as a Unesco Heritage site.

This beautiful corner of Campania shows history, art and culture that are only discovered by venturing off the beaten path, such as Vigna del Ventaglio near Caserta in San Leucio, another UNESCO World Heritage site. The place was already known in the past for high quality silk production, when the Bourbon King Ferdinando IV selected a vineyard in the shape of a fan and divided it into nine sectors, each cultivated with unique grape varieties he loved the most, like Piedimonte Rosso and Bianco, Procopio, Delfino Bianco and Siracusa Rosso, parental vines of the modern ones.

Modern winemaking equipment has been introduced in Campania. For instance, prominent estates have been using high -ech crushing machines and tanks with cooling jackets, and at the same time the wine estate are preserving certain traditional winemaking techniques like the use of amphoras where local grapes such as Greco, Fiano and also Coda di Volpe perform well.

The two-day tasting was a true pleasure for me, with sparkling, whites, reds and rosè from all over Campania, over 200 samples from 90 producers. I focused mostly on the sparkling wines which are showing interesting improvements. While at the beginning, most sparkling wine from Campania was Charmat method from some of the semi-aromatic grapes of the region, mainly Falanghina, but now several traditional method wines are becoming more and more popular with large improvements in terms of quality.

This was definitely a roadshow of the best expression of Campania viticulture and landscape. For a full immersion in this promising growing region, Campania Stories is wine not to be missed. And now I can only wait for the 2025 edition, which will be hosted by the Volcano Vesuvio.

Filippo Magnani

Exploring Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Wines – Toronto

I spend this afternoon tasting and exploring Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC wines at the historic Carlu, Toronto.

Participating wineries included:

Cirelli – Azienda Tilli – Tenuta Micoli – Ausonia – Caprera – Castorani– Colle Moro – Nicodemi – Cantina Tollo – San Lorenzo – Stefania Pepe – Valle Martello

Did you know?
That Abruzzo has been dubbed Europe’s greenest region. Approximately half of this area has been being designated a national parkland and habitat for endangered species as part of a massive “rewilding” project.

Despite its natural beauty and bounty, as well as a 2,500-year-long history of winemaking, this region in Southern Italy is still under-the-radar.