New Findings Establish Historical Continuity Between Versailles Vineyard and 18th-Century Winemaking Practice 

A centuries-old vineyard in Versailles dating back to 1787 has been brought back to life by Adrien Pélissié, a former Bordeaux winegrower and now owner of La Bouche du Roi winery in Versailles. While looking through historic regional maps, Pélissié made a remarkable discovery: the vineyard he planted in 2017, in the unusual shape of a shark’s fin, matched the exact location and layout of one marked on an 18th-century map, created 230 years earlier.

In the 17th century, the Île-de-France was France’s largest winegrowing region, with vineyards stretching across tens of thousands of hectares. However, by the early 20th century, viticulture in the region had virtually vanished. Any hope of bringing it back was quashed by French regulations brought in during the 1950s, which restricted commercial viticulture in Versailles and other parts of the country. That changed on January 1, 2016, when new EU regulations lifted restrictions on vineyard planting rights, paving the way for the revival of the region’s historic vineyards.

Pélissié states: “I was really moved when I realized that someone had planted vines in the exact same spot, hundreds of years ago. The vineyard even has the same distinctive shape—it curves like a shark’s fin. It’s a humbling thought, that someone back then saw the same potential in this land that we do today. We feel very fortunate to be part of the story of this place, bringing viticulture back to the region and honoring the French tradition that came before us.”

The discovery was made using the Plans d’Intendance, detailed cartographic surveys commissioned under Louis XV and Louis XVI. The specific map that revealed the vineyard’s past was dated 1787.

Today, the renaissance of viticulture in Île-de-France is well underway. Around 130 hectares (320 acres) of vines are now planted across the region, with La Bouche du Roi leading the charge. Situated in the former royal hunting grounds of the Plaine de Versailles—just 30 minutes from Paris—it is the region’s largest vineyard, spanning 27 hectares (67 acres).

About La Bouche du Roi

Founded in 2017 by Adrien Pélissié, La Bouche du Roi is a pioneering estate located just 30 minutes from Paris, on the historic Plaine de Versailles—the former hunting grounds of the Kings of France. The 27-hectare (67-acre) vineyard is farmed organically and planted with six grape varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc for whites; Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc for reds. The winery, which French newspaper Le Figaro called the “most remarkable” discovery of 2024, welcomes visitors by appointment.

The estate takes its name from La Bouche du Roi, the esteemed royal household service responsible for overseeing the King’s table, including the sommeliers, cupbearers, and chefs who ensured the quality of food and wine served at the court of Versailles.

La Bouche du Roi is distributed via Bordeaux négociants (La Place de Bordeaux). In the United States, its wines are exclusively imported by Maison Barrière and are available in several states. They can be found in restaurants such as PerSe by Thomas Keller (New York), restaurants by Alain Ducasse (Paris), and Lafayette in Miami.

Two of the estate’s labels are also featured on Wine.com, making them easily accessible to consumers nationwide.

Old Vine Registry Surpasses 4,000 Entries: Vineyards Planted in 1990 Now Eligible

The Old Vine Registry, recognized as the foremost global database dedicated to documenting old vine vineyards, has achieved a significant milestone by surpassing 4,000 entries. This accomplishment underscores the registry’s ongoing commitment to cataloging historic vineyards, with entries now encompassing 39 countries. In addition, vineyards established in 1990 are now eligible for inclusion. The registry aims to expand its database to 10,000 vineyards by 2027, reflecting its dedication to preserving viticultural heritage.

With the changing of the year, vineyards planted in 1990 are now 35 years old and are eligible for inclusion in the registry. Producers are encouraged to submit their vineyards at https://www.oldvineregistry.org/.

The OIV’s recently passed Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024 “OIV definition and recommendations about old grapevines and old vineyards in the vitivinicultural sector” made the explicit recommendation to all wine regions around the world to “promote and encourage the cataloguing of old vineyards and old grapevines.”

The Old Vine Registry was conceived expressly for that purpose, with the idea that to study, preserve, or support old vines around the world, you first need to know where they all are. The registry launched in June of 2023 with 2183 entries and has grown steadily over the last year and a half.

“The recent OIV Resolution really validated what we’re doing,” says wine writer Alder Yarrow, who serves as the day-to-day manager of the registry. “I hope it will encourage both individual producers and whole regions to publish information about their old vines.”

OIV Resolution: “Old Vines” Gain Official Status: What This Means for the Industry

The International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV) has marked a historic moment for the wine world. During the 22nd OIV General Assembly, Resolution OIV-VITI 703-2024 was adopted, officially defining and recommending standards for “old grapevines” and “old vineyards” in the vitivinicultural sector. This groundbreaking decision recognizes the essential contributions of global initiatives, including The Old Vine Conference, The Old Vine Project, The Old Vine Registry, and Censimento Vecchie Vigne.

Key Definitions:

  • Old Grapevines: A vine officially documented to be 35 years or older, including grafted vines where the connection between rootstock and scion remains undisturbed for at least 35 years.
  • Old Vineyards: Legally delimited vineyard blocks where 85% or more of the vines meet the old vine criteria.

This resolution, the culmination of extended discussions among the OIV Commission Viticulture Experts and consultations with member states, establishes a pivotal framework for vine preservation. Sarah Abbott MW, co-founder of The Old Vine Conference, remarked:

“This is a milestone for the global old vine movement. The EU’s required consideration of OIV recommendations could significantly influence future regulations, particularly in preventing uprooting programs.”

Old Vine Conference 2025: A Global Spotlight

Following this announcement, The Old Vine Conference continues to expand its impact. Next week, it hosts the Old Vine Wine Week (Nov. 18–24), and in 2025, it will bring its prestigious conference to California, further amplifying the importance of heritage vines.

Connect with the Movement:

Website: www.oldvines.org

Instagram:  @ouroldvines