Pre–New Year’s Dinner: Why Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Cristal 2016 Redefine Celebration

 

Some evenings feel like prologues. The eve before New Year’s Eve is one of them, less noise, more contemplation. It’s the space where conversation deepens, and Champagne becomes less of a party trick and more of an essay in liquid form.

This year, my pre–New Year’s dinner is guided by the ethos of Louis Roederer: discipline in the vineyard, patience in the cellar, and a refusal to perform theatrics for their own sake. To explore that ethos at the table, I’ve chosen two Champagne classics whose architecture and restraint echo this sensibility: Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Louis Roederer Cristal 2016.

The House: Louis Roederer Precision as Philosophy

Founded in 1833 and based in Reims, Louis Roederer evolved from a respectable maison into one of Champagne’s most quietly rigorous estates. By the mid-19th century, Roederer did something radical for the time: it began purchasing vineyards rather than relying solely on growers. Controlling fruit quality became a long game, not an annual negotiation.

Today, the estate owns almost 250 hectares, with an increasing emphasis on organic and biodynamic practices. This underpins the house’s unmistakable personality: depth without heaviness, tension without austerity, and a calm, almost meditative finish.

Wine Tourism: Less Spectacle, More Insight

Visiting Roederer isn’t about neon-lit cellars and selfies with sabres. Experiences tend to privilege understanding over spectacle.

The estate provides guided vineyard walks, cellar visits, and tastings that unpack:

  • The role of reserve wines
  • The quiet architecture of blending
  • How climate change is reshaping decisions in real time

These experiences feel more like seminars than shows – the kind of visit that leaves your notebook full and your mind happily buzzing.

On the Table with Roederer’s Spirit

Louis Roederer Collection 245

This is Roederer’s perpetual-reserve concept in motion – perfect rhythm and balance. In the glass, the bubbles are fine and controlled. Aromatically, there are hints of ripe pear, Golden Delicious apple, lemon zest, and a faint line of brioche. There’s a saline whisper running underneath. On the palate, it moves with precision: orchard fruit, a touch of almond, subtle creaminess, and a clean, linear finish that leaves a chalk-dust memory.

Pairing for our pre–New Year’s dinner

This is the “conversation starter” wine. I paired this wine with oysters, with a light mignonette, and scallop carpaccio – dishes that respect the structure without overpowering it.

Louis Roederer Cristal 2016

The 2016 is sculpted: luminous citrus, white peach, subtle apricot skin, and that crystalline chalk character that defines Roederer’s grandest vineyards. There’s also a hint of hazelnut and delicate pastry, sitting quietly behind the mineral spine. The palate feels both weightless and deep, with a long, resonant finish. That’s power.

Pairing for a pre–New Year’s dinner

This wine was served later in the progression. I paired it with butter-poached lobster and roast capon with thyme and lemon. Perfection.

Why Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Louis Roederer Cristal 2016 Before New Year’s?

Because the night before the noise deserves reflection. Louis Roederer’s philosophy grounds the evening – time and patience.

And as the calendar inches toward midnight the next day, this pre-new year’s dinner became a quiet rehearsal, acknowledging change -reviewing the year before we write the next chapter.

Champagne Deutz: A Holiday Standard

Nestled in the premier cru village of Aÿ, in the historic Champagne region of northeastern France, Maison Deutz occupies a place in the pantheon of classic Champagne houses that feels both rooted and unexpectedly electric. Founded in 1838 by William Deutz and Pierre-Hubert Geldermann, this house emerged from the great era of négociant ambition, carving out a reputation for finesse and stylistic consistency that has endured for nearly two centuries.

Location and Tourism

Aÿ sits like a jewelled hub just west of Épernay, think of it as Champagne’s scholarly precinct, where chalky soils and Pinot Noir harmonize across the landscape. Tourists, sommeliers, and curious travellers come here to explore terroir and technique. Tasting experiences in the Deutz cellars are examinations in slow maturation: centuries-old chalk caves that feel like cathedral crypts dedicated to bubbles, each bottle a lesson in time, texture, and terroir. Visiting Champagne Deutz is an immersion in the geography and geology of effervescent elegance.

Acquired in the late 20th century by the Rouzaud family, custodians of Louis Roederer, Deutz has blended its legacy with renewed vigour while preserving traditional techniques. The house today balances respect for its heritage with an eye toward how modern palates approach complexity, balance, and pleasure.

Champagne Deutz stands as a living museum of viticultural tradition: chalk labyrinths, vineyard tours through storied parcels of premier and grand cru, and tastings that pair textbook technique with experiential delight.

Celebrate the Holidays with Deutz Classic Brut

If you gravitate toward Champagnes that feel both classic and stimulating, not loud, simply intellectually stylish, Deutz Classic Brut is for you. This non-vintage blend is built on a near-perfect equilateral triangle of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, each contributing about a third of the whole. Around 20–40% reserve wines are folded into the blend to maintain house consistency and depth year after year, an oenological time capsule that speaks to complexity without pomp.

Deutz Classic Brut: Tasting Notes

In the glass, it shows a deep golden hue with an ultra-fine mousse, the effervescent whisper synonymous with long cellar ageing. On the nose, it reveals delicate white florals offset by richer aromas of toasted brioche, marzipan, and ripe pear.

The palate brings crisp freshness from Chardonnay, wrapped in the supple richness that Pinot Noir provides so well. Integrated fruit notes lean toward apple and pear, with hints of citrus and an underlying mineral clarity. The finish lingers with textured elegance.

Why Champagne Deutz?

Drinking Deutz Classic Brut during the holidays is like revisiting a trusted chapter in a favourite book: it brings comfort, stylistic integrity, and small surprises with every sip. This is the Champagne that feels like a warm toast among old friends and new ideas, a bottle that honours the past while sparkling fully in the present.

Champagne Laurent-Perrier: Two Iconic Expressions for the Holiday Season

Among the many Champagne houses that balance intellectual rigour with pure pleasure, Laurent-Perrier stands confidently at the top of the pyramid. For the holiday season, two cuvées in particular capture my attention, both for celebratory exuberance and contemplative depth: Grand Siècle No. 26 and Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé. Each expresses a different philosophy of luxury – one built on time, precision, and layered complexity, the other on immediacy, purity of fruit, and joy. Together, they form an ideal festive pairing.

About Champagne Laurent-Perrier

The house known today as Laurent-Perrier traces its origins to 1812, when André-Michel Pierlot, a cooper and bottler from Chigny-les-Roses, established his enterprise in the Grand Cru village of Tours-sur-Marne. His acquisition of vineyard parcels known as Les Plaisances and La Tour Glorieux laid the viticultural foundations for what would become one of Champagne’s most influential independent houses.

Over the course of the 20th century, particularly under the visionary leadership of Bernard de Nonancourt, Laurent-Perrier evolved from a respected regional producer into a global Grande Marque, exporting to more than 140 countries. The house became synonymous with freshness, elegance, and technical innovation, pioneering the use of stainless-steel fermentation and challenging conventions with non-dosé and rosé Champagnes produced by maceration.

Today, Laurent-Perrier remains a family-owned business, continuing to strike a balance between heritage and modernity. Its stylistic identity is unmistakable: Champagne is defined not by power alone, but by finesse, clarity, and restraint.

Tasting Notes

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle No. 26

This prestige multi-vintage cuvée is composed of three exceptional years rather than a single declared vintage. Predominantly Chardonnay, complemented by Pinot Noir, it is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards.

Grand Siècle is built on Laurent-Perrier’s philosophy of creating a “perfect vintage in a bottle.” Extended lees ageing in chalk cellars allows the wine to develop extraordinary depth while preserving freshness. It rewards both patient cellaring and thoughtful immediate enjoyment.

Tasting Profile

On opening, the nose is refined and expressive: brioche, toasted almonds, hazelnut, warm pastry, honeyed nuances, and citrus peel. With time in the glass, additional layers emerge, including candied citrus, white flowers, gentle spice, gingerbread, and a finely etched mineral line. The palate is rich yet controlled, with a creamy, seamless mousse and remarkable balance between acidity and depth. Flavours of toasted nuts, brioche, citrus zest, and subtle stone fruit unfold toward a long, mineral-driven finish. The impression is confident, complex, and quietly powerful.

This Champagne is for slow contemplation and refined holiday meals such as white truffle, veal, fine poultry, or a perfectly roasted turkey. Grand Siècle No. 26 doesn’t shout; it resonates.

97 Points
Liz Palmer

Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Brut Rosé

This non-vintage rosé Champagne is made from 100% Pinot Noir, produced using the saignée (maceration) method, rather than blending in red wine. This technique preserves purity, structure, and aromatic precision.

Vinified with meticulous attention to aromatic clarity, the wine reflects Laurent-Perrier’s hallmark freshness and technical precision. Stainless-steel fermentation and careful lees management deliver intensity without heaviness.

Tasting Profile

In the glass, a delicate salmon-petal hue with fine, energetic mousse. Aromatically vivid, offering freshly crushed raspberries, wild strawberries, red currant, and hints of cherry, accented by subtle florals and a whisper of brioche. On the palate, the texture is silky and rounded, with bright red-berry flavours leading into gentle creaminess, a light mineral edge, and a refreshing, balanced finish.

Charming, expressive, and endlessly versatile, this cuvée rosé shines as an aperitif and pairs effortlessly with seafood, lighter holiday dishes, or even spicy cuisine. It’s festive energy in a glass.

94 Points
Liz Palmer

Wine Tourism

Laurent-Perrier’s headquarters and principal vineyards are located in Tours-sur-Marne, in the heart of Champagne. Its prestigious Château de Louvois, a 17th-century estate associated with Grand Siècle, reinforces the house’s connection to heritage and grandeur. The château’s Orangery, restored in 2023 and awarded the Pierre Cheval Prize, reflects ongoing investment in cultural preservation.

Laurent-Perrier maintains a discreet, curated visitor policy. While public tours are not guaranteed, select visits—often for trade or VIPs—offer access to some of Champagne’s most extensive cellars. In the context of Champagne’s tourism boom following UNESCO designation, Laurent-Perrier appears strategically positioned for high-end, heritage-driven experiences rather than mass visitation.

Reflections: Why Laurent-Perrier Still Matters in 2025

Laurent-Perrier occupies a rare space in Champagne: intellectually serious, technically innovative, yet emotionally accessible. Its willingness to challenge tradition, while respecting it, has shaped a style that is fresh, refined, and enduring. In an era where wine tourism increasingly values authenticity and cultural depth, Laurent-Perrier’s quiet confidence and curated approach feel not only relevant but refreshingly modern.

The 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello: Italy’s premier wine preview showcases a vintage of elegance and restraint

Montalcino opened its historic cellars and welcomed the world once again for the 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello, held November 20–24 at the Chiostro di Sant’Agostino. As Italy’s longest-running wine preview event, this year’s gathering brought the international wine community together to taste the highly anticipated Brunello di Montalcino 2021, alongside Brunello Riserva 2020 and Rosso di Montalcino 2024. With 122 wineries presenting their wines and approximately 100 journalists and industry professionals in attendance, the event underscored Brunello’s enduring status as one of Italy’s most prestigious wine denominations. The international presence was particularly notable, with nearly half of the attending journalists coming from abroad, reflecting Brunello’s truly global appeal.

The event maintained its successful dual format pioneered in previous years. The first three days (November 20–22) were reserved for trade and media, featuring technical tastings. The final two days opened to Italian and international wine lovers, restaurant professionals, wine merchants, and sommeliers for walk-around sessions where they could meet producers directly.

Brunello’s continued market strength

Brunello di Montalcino has achieved what few wine denominations can claim: sustained growth in both prestige and commercial success over the past half-century. The denomination’s popularity continues to expand in world markets, driven by rising average prices, stable volumes, and growth in strategic regions. Recent data from Wine Intelligence confirms Brunello’s exceptional brand recognition in Italy, where it is known by two out of three consumers, surpassing in notoriety even neighbouring Tuscan appellations.

Rosso di Montalcino continues to show impressive growth. Following the expansion of vineyard area, bottlings in the first ten months reached nearly 4 million State Seals issued, marking a 29% year-on-year increase. This secondary appellation has become an important entry point for consumers discovering the territory while also serving as an earlier-drinking expression of Montalcino’s terroir. The Consorzio announced plans to launch a new promotional program for the denomination in 2026, involving collective participation in primary markets, particularly the United States, as well as additional strategic destinations. The aim is to diversify business opportunities for producers as much as possible, ensuring the denomination’s continued growth across multiple markets rather than relying too heavily on any single region.

Understanding the 2021 vintage

One of the highlights of the event was the presentation of the 2021 vintage characteristics through Brunello Forma, the Consorzio’s comprehensive technical analysis program. Now utilizing data from 60 weather stations (a 54% increase over 2020) and comparable to the 30-year historical average (1996–2025), the analysis provided detailed insights into what shaped this distinctive vintage. The 2021 growing season was defined by two main weather anomalies: a notably colder spring than historical norms, especially during March, April, and May, and a significantly warmer, drier September.

What made 2021 particularly unusual was the complete absence of rain between late August and early September, a pattern atypical for the Montalcino area. The vintage narrative began dramatically on April 8 with one of the most severe spring frosts of the past two decades. Following an early budbreak prompted by rapidly increasing temperatures from March 24 onward, the sudden plunge in minimum temperatures, exacerbated by a strong North Atlantic cold front, delayed the entire vegetative cycle and significantly reduced yields in some areas.

Summer brought a pronounced water deficit rather than thermal excess. Despite the persistent drought, maximum temperatures remained moderate, with only brief heatwaves observed. This restraint proved crucial to wine quality. The marked diurnal temperature variation, combined with the absence of prolonged heat stress, allowed the grapes to maintain freshness and aromatic complexity even under challenging conditions. Harvest commenced in the second half of September under clear skies and concluded rapidly in early October, with all fruit brought in before the first significant rainfall arrived after October 5. The resulting wines reflect a vintage shaped by discipline and precision: approachable yet structured, elegant yet concentrated, offering immediate appeal while promising graceful evolution over time.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese

The Brunello production area corresponds to the historical limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village just 40 km south of Siena, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is shaped like a square around the town, and it’s fascinating to observe the microclimate differences in such a compact territory.

This is a dry land encompassing a multitude of microclimates and soils. Generally speaking, grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located at higher elevations (but never over 600 meters) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes grow in an entirely different environment. The soils are richer, such as clay; the sunlight is more intense; sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea; and the resulting wines are more powerful. Furthermore, the presence of Mount Amiata (1,740 m) to the south has an important influence by shielding the grapes from strong atmospheric phenomena and providing breezes that help keep the climate dry and the vines healthy.

Tasting impressions of the 2021 vintage

After tasting most of the Brunello di Montalcino 2021 samples, the overall impression is of a vintage that shows approachable drinkability supported by good structure and finesse. The wines reflect the character of a season defined by moderate temperatures, marked diurnal variation, and water stress without extreme heat. The result is a Brunello that balances freshness with concentration, offering elegance and refinement that will continue to evolve beautifully over time.

The Sangiovese Grosso: the fingerprint of Brunello

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before reaching its quality peak, but once achieved, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. It is a very sensitive native grape and one of the highest-quality varieties, requiring careful practice and impeccable attention throughout its production process, harvest, and vinification.

It is a variety that shows fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice, and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of Sangiovese are the main factors behind its longevity. It performs differently in each site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir, combined with the play of time, has always produced elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to surprise. It is an example of impressive year-by-year quality persistence, and every vintage reveals a different profile of Sangiovese’s beauty, showcasing a new nuance of its character each time.

Montalcino: a year-round wine destination

Montalcino was historically an important stop on the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome, and therefore it welcomed and hosted influential figures, including nobles, politicians, and popes. The great wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors traveling to the Eternal City, which is why the hamlet has displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.

Montalcino today is internationally recognized as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting. It is connected to the history of its people and helps visitors understand why wine is so deeply integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who, from generation to generation, continue to pass on their passion and know-how.

While Benvenuto Brunello represents a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year. Many of the 122 participating wineries welcome visitors year-round, though reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours, including vertical tastings of multiple vintages, vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs, barrel tastings in historic cellars, and food-and-wine pairing experiences. Some estates offer helicopter tours of the denomination and harvest experiences during September and October.

The territory hosts several notable events beyond Benvenuto Brunello. The Brunello Crossing in February features competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes ranging from 10 to 44 kilometers. The Jazz & Wine Festival in July combines world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings. L’Eroica in October, the famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, includes a special route through the Brunello vineyards. Honey Week in September celebrates local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino.

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest, from hiking and biking trails to the iconic cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films. Historic abbeys, including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls—natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo, and the artistic treasures of Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia provide rich cultural experiences.

The town welcomes many visitors, and the care devoted to hospitality has become just as important as the attention given to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&Bs, luxurious accommodations within wine estates, and impeccable hotels offer diverse lodging options to suit different preferences and budgets.

Filippo Magnani

Adapting Terroir to a Changing Climate: An Overview of Chablis’ 2025 Vineyard Regulation Reforms

The 2025 regulatory revisions for the Chablis appellation represent a strategically calibrated response to accelerating climatic pressures. The adjustments—ranging from reduced vine density to higher authorized yields are intended to reinforce vineyard resilience without compromising the appellation’s stylistic integrity. These changes, outlined by The Drinks Business and corroborated through EUR-Lex, signal a regional shift toward adaptive viticultural governance.

The most consequential reform concerns vine density, which has been lowered from 8,000 to 5,500 vines per hectare. This reduction widens row spacing and improves accessibility for mechanization, particularly on slopes where labour constraints and erosion pressures intersect. Expanded spacing norms, averaging up to 1.20 metres, and reaching 1.60 metres on steeper gradients, provide growers with enhanced flexibility. In irregular blocks, spacing may now extend to 2 metres, acknowledging the topographic complexity of the Chablis landscape.

Revisions to yield thresholds similarly reflect an attempt to stabilize production under increasingly erratic weather. New maximum yields now reach 75 hl/ha for standard Chablis (previously 70 hl/ha) and 73 hl/ha for Premier Cru (up from 68 hl/ha). These adjustments offer producers a buffer against frost events, hail episodes, and challenging ripening conditions—phenomena that have become emblematic of recent vintages.

Changes to trellising requirements deepen the focus on canopy management. A minimum foliage height equal to 0.6 times the row spacing is now mandated, supported by structured trellising systems. This emphasizes balanced vegetative growth, improved light interception, and better control of disease pressure; central pillars of contemporary cool-climate viticulture.

These reforms operate alongside long-standing regulations that continue to define the Chablis identity. Chardonnay remains the sole authorized variety, while the hierarchical appellation system, Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru, maintains its established parameters. Minimum alcohol levels (9.5% for Chablis, 10.5% for Premier Cru, and 11% for Grand Cru) remain unchanged, preserving the sensory and structural benchmarks of the region. The geological foundation of Chablis, its Kimmeridgian limestone soils, continues to be recognized as the primary determinant of minerality. Traditional protective practices persist, now complemented by an increasing emphasis on sustainable farming.

Together, these updates depict a region actively reconciling heritage with necessity. Chablis is preserving its historical identity while embracing adaptive strategies capable of sustaining quality and viability in an era defined by climatic volatility. The 2025 framework stands as a model of regulatory evolution rooted in both tradition and foresight, an approach many wine regions are now compelled to consider as environmental uncertainty intensifies.