Wines of Italy Archives

Italy’s Wine Exports Soar: September 2024 Analysis

Italy, the world’s wine epicentre, achieved remarkable milestones in September 2024, solidifying its position as a leader in global wine export by volume. Italian wines, renowned for their diversity, quality, and rich heritage, have captivated audiences worldwide. Below, I delve into the top ten markets driving the success of Italian wine exports, offering insights into evolving consumer preferences and cultural affinities.

Top 10 Export Markets for Italian Wine

United States (24%)
The U.S. retains its spot as the largest consumer of Italian wines, reflecting the American love for iconic varietals like Chianti, Prosecco, and Barolo. This quarter’s exports showcase Italy’s deep-rooted influence on American wine culture, particularly among millennials and Gen X.
United Kingdom (20%)
The U.K. remains a steadfast partner, with British consumers eagerly reaching for Italian reds and sparkling wines. Despite global economic shifts, Italy’s premium selections charm the British palate.
Germany (6%)
With its sophisticated and detail-oriented wine culture, Germany steadily increases its consumption of Italian wine, notably organic and sustainable vintages, which appeal to eco-conscious drinkers.
Russia (5%)
While geopolitical complexities persist, Italy’s wines maintain a foothold in Russia, where European vintages are steadily gaining traction among urban elites.
France (5%)
In an intriguing market dynamic, Italy’s wine exports to France underscore cross-border appreciation. French consumers favour distinctive Italian wines like Amarone and Nero d’Avola, offering a complement to their domestic preferences.
Canada (5%)
Canada, with its multicultural demographic, remains a valuable partner for Italy’s export growth. The popularity of Italian wine among Canadians reflects shared values of quality and craftsmanship.
Belgium (4%)
Belgium’s rich culinary heritage and established wine traditions make it a loyal market for Italian vintages. Prosecco, in particular, enjoys increasing favour in celebratory settings.
Switzerland (3%)
Swiss buyers lean towards high-end Italian wines, often pairing them with fine dining experiences. This market highlights a preference for both tradition and exclusivity.
Latvia (3%)
Latvia represents a rising star in Italy’s export landscape. Growing interest in medium-priced wines signals a burgeoning sophistication in wine culture.
Austria (2%)
Rounding out the top ten, Austria’s wine market reflects its preference for regional balance and traditional winemaking, aligning perfectly with Italy’s offerings.

The Road Ahead

Italy’s wine sector continues to explore untapped markets while deepening its ties with existing ones. Exporters are leveraging storytelling, wine tourism, and sustainability credentials to maintain Italy’s edge in a competitive global market.

Source: Italy’s National Institute of Statistics (Istat)

Mombarone [Piedmont] Vineyards added to Historical Register

The Italian Ministry of Agriculture has officially recognized the historical and scenic value of the vineyards in the Canavese region, located on the left bank of the Dora Baltea River. These terraced vineyards, cultivated since medieval times, have been added to the National Register of Historical Rural Landscapes, a distinction that highlights their cultural and environmental significance. The recent announcement was welcomed by Bruno Mecca Cici, President of Coldiretti Torino, who described it as a crucial step in protecting and revitalizing the region’s heroic viticulture.

The register includes rural areas that have preserved their unique cultural and agricultural characteristics over centuries, becoming integral to the local landscape and heritage. In Canavese, the terraced vineyards exemplify human adaptation to the Alpine environment. The dry-stone walls supporting these terraces create a favourable microclimate for growing vines under challenging conditions by reflecting heat and stabilizing the terrain.

The winemaking tradition in Canavese is deeply rooted in local history. The terraces, locally known as tupiun, are supported by stone pillars called pilun, a centuries-old farming technique passed down through generations.

The Ministry’s recognition underscores the need to protect these vineyards not only for their cultural value but also for their role in preventing soil erosion and landslides on the region’s steep slopes. Maintaining these vineyards is considered heroic viticulture under Italian law, given the extreme conditions in which local farmers work. Despite their importance, these viticulturists face numerous challenges in sustaining their activity.

Mecca Cici stressed that inclusion in the National Register must be accompanied by concrete policies to support mountain viticulture. Proposed measures include protecting vineyards from wild animals, building rural roads and transport systems to improve access to terraced plots, and providing incentives to acquire abandoned land. There is also a push to develop tourism and infrastructure that could leverage the unique Canavese landscape for economic benefit.

Tourism promotion is seen as an opportunity to revive the local economy. Coldiretti Torino has advocated integrating the vineyards into existing tourist routes, such as the Via Francigena, and showcasing local features like the Balmetti of Borgofranco di Ivrea—natural cellars carved into rock used to store wine and other products.

Canavese wines are central to this revitalization effort. The region is home to renowned appellations such as Nebbiolo di Carema and Erbaluce di Caluso, wines that experts believe hold great potential in the face of climate change. Additionally, olive cultivation is being promoted on the same slopes, a practice that seemed improbable in this mountainous area until recently but is now yielding promising results.

Alto Adige Wines Announces a New UGA Classification

Nestled in Italy’s northeastern corner, Alto Adige, one of the country’s most compact yet pioneering viticultural areas, is advancing its esteemed Alto Adige DOC designation with a significant new addition. The Consorzio Alto Adige Wines has recently announced that, starting with the 2024 vintage, 86 well-defined and meticulously documented vineyard areas have been granted special legal status as Additional Geographical Units (in Italian “Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive” or UGA).

“Our goal is to capture the unique character of each vineyard in every bottle,” said Martin Foradori, Vice President of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines and owner of the J. Hofstätter estate. “Terroir” should not be just a marketing term—it should be something you can truly taste in each glass of wine.”

Defined by rigorous criteria, each UGA reflects an ideal alignment of soil type, microclimate, altitude, slope inclination, sun exposure, rainfall, and more. While forward-thinking was essential to this process, tradition also played a significant role, as many of the selected vineyard sites hold historical importance. A land register dating back to the mid-18th century provided access to valuable historic land names, testifying the region’s rich viticultural heritage. Additionally, within each UGA, permissible yields have been further reduced by 25% compared to DOC regulations, ensuring optimal grape quality and exceptional wines.

The ideal grape varieties for vineyards within each UGA have also been carefully defined. Eduard Bernhart, Director of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines, explained: “Wines that qualify for a UGA designation must be made exclusively with grapes from that specific site. Depending on the vineyard’s location within a UGA, up to five varieties may be permitted, while some UGAs restrict production to just one or two varieties.”

As of the 2024 vintage, the geographical designation—such as Gries, Mazon, or Eppan Berg, to name just a few of the 86 recognized UGAs—may be listed on wine labels alongside “Alto Adige DOC.”

Producers wishing to use a UGA name on their label are required to include a pictograph specially designed by the Consorzio. Alto Adige Wines This will allow consumers to clearly recognize these special wines, as the pictograph must appear on both the front and back labels.

“Much like other renowned wine regions, we believe this initiative will set new benchmarks for exceptional and distinctive Alto Adige wines,” commented Andreas Kofler, President of the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines and of Cantina Kurtatsch. “These UGAs establish Alto Adige as a leader in the highest quality, terroir-driven winemaking.”

The creation of UGAs marks the culmination of years of research, collaboration, and vision led by the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines. Contributions from agronomists, enologists, growers, and producers helped shape the new classification, blending innovation with a deep respect for tradition.

Benvenuto Brunello 2024: Celebrating Tuscany’s Iconic Wine PART I – Filippo Magnani

The storied hills of Montalcino welcomed wine enthusiasts and professionals for the 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello, the foundational event among Italian wine previews dedicated to Tuscany’s most iconic red wine. From November 14-18, the medieval Chiostro Sant’Agostino in Montalcino hosted this prestigious gathering, featuring 127 wineries and over 500 labels, marking a return to tradition while embracing innovation in its presentation format.

A Return to Tradition with Modern Flair

This year’s event notably returns to its roots, combining professional technical tastings with walk-around opportunities where producers personally present their wines. The anticipated debut of Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Riserva 2019 took center stage, alongside the Rosso di Montalcino 2023, Moscadello, and Sant’Antimo. The revival of producer-attended tastings marks a significant evolution in the event’s format, creating more intimate opportunities for dialogue between winemakers and enthusiasts.

The Chiostro Sant’Agostino, with its historic architecture and serene atmosphere, provided an ideal setting for exploring these prestigious wines. The walk-around tastings offered visitors the chance to engage directly with producers, learning firsthand about their winemaking philosophies, terroir interpretations, and vintage characteristics.

A Strategic Autumn Preview

The event opened with two days of technical tastings exclusively for national and international press. These sessions featured professional sommelier service, allowing critics and journalists to evaluate the new releases under optimal conditions. The controlled environment and expert service ensured that each wine could be assessed thoroughly and objectively.

The program expanded significantly at the Teatro degli Astrusi with the thought-provoking discussion, “What future for the wine consortia.” This high-level industry forum brought together an unprecedented gathering of Italian wine’s most influential voices, including:

Albiera Antinori (Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia)
Francesco Cambria (Etna Doc)
Sergio Germano (Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani)
Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico)
Christian Marchesini (Valpolicella)

Tasting Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2020

In general, Brunellos of this year turned out to be soft, fruity with good structure and alcohol content, making them very approachable to drink. This is partly a reflection of the vintage, which started quite dry with no frost in spring. The summer was also dry and quite hot with a great diurnal temperature range (temperature difference between night and day). The season ended with some rain at the beginning of September, which gave a little relief to the grapes.

The Rise of Brunello: A Legacy of Excellence

After more than five decades since achieving DOCG status, Brunello di Montalcino continues to captivate wine enthusiasts worldwide. The wine’s modern success story, beginning in the late 19th century, is inextricably linked to visionaries like Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, who pioneered the extended oak aging that would become a hallmark of Brunello’s distinctive character.

Today’s Brunello maintains these exacting standards while embracing modern precision in both vineyard and cellar. The DOCG requirements remain among Italy’s most stringent, requiring a minimum of four years aging, including two years in oak and four months in bottle, with Riserva wines demanding an additional year of maturation.

Terroir and Tradition Meet Innovation

The success of Brunello di Montalcino stems from the perfect marriage of the Sangiovese grape with Montalcino’s diverse terroir. The region’s varying elevations (250-600 meters above sea level) and complex soil compositions create a tapestry of microclimates that contribute to the wine’s renowned complexity.

The northern sector’s limestone and shale soils produce wines of particular finesse and aromatic complexity, while the central zone’s clay and marl contribute to wines of substantial structure and depth. The southern area, influenced by volcanic soils, yields wines of remarkable power and intensity. This diversity allows producers to craft wines that reflect their specific location while maintaining the high standards that define Brunello di Montalcino.

Today, over half of Montalcino’s producers are certified organic, demonstrating the region’s commitment to sustainable viticulture while preserving traditional winemaking excellence. This environmental consciousness extends beyond the vineyard, with many producers implementing sustainable practices throughout their operations.

Experiencing Montalcino: A Complete Tuscan Journey

Visitors to Benvenuto Brunello will find themselves in one of Tuscany’s most captivating wine destinations, where centuries of winemaking tradition blend seamlessly with modern hospitality. The medieval hilltop town of Montalcino, perched at 564 meters above sea level, offers a perfect base for exploring both the wines and the rich cultural heritage of the region.

The Historic Heart of Montalcino

The town’s crowning glory, the 14th-century Rocca fortress, stands as a testament to Montalcino’s historical significance. This perfectly preserved stronghold now houses the Enoteca la Fortezza, one of the region’s premier wine destinations. Here, visitors can taste an extensive selection of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, with expert sommeliers offering guidance through the various producers and vintages. The fortress’s ramparts provide breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards, the Val d’Orcia, and Monte Amiata, making it an essential stop for photographers and wine lovers alike.

Gastronomic Treasures

Montalcino’s culinary scene perfectly complements its wines, with restaurants ranging from traditional trattorias to Michelin-starred establishments. Local specialties include:

Hand-rolled pici pasta, often served with robust wild boar ragù or the traditional pepper and cheese sauce called “cacio e pepe”
Locally-produced pecorino cheese, aged in various ways including under walnut leaves or in barriques
Traditional Tuscan soup called ribollita, perfect with Rosso di Montalcino
Seasonal truffle dishes, particularly abundant in autumn
Locally-sourced cinghiale (wild boar) prepared in various ways

The town’s historic center features numerous enotecas and wine bars where visitors can sample wines by the glass, often accompanied by local salumi and cheese. Many establishments offer formal wine tasting flights, allowing guests to compare different producers and vintages in a single sitting.

Year-Round Wine Tourism

While Benvenuto Brunello marks a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year.

Winery Visits

Many of Montalcino’s 127 wineries welcome visitors year-round, though advance reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours including:

Vertical tastings of multiple vintages
Vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs
Barrel tastings in historic cellars
Food and wine pairing experiences
Helicopter tours of the denomination
Harvest experiences during September and October

Seasonal Events

Brunello Crossing (February): A series of competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes of varying difficulty from 10 to 44 kilometers
Jazz & Wine Festival (July): Combining world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings
L’Eroica (October): The famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, with a special route through the Brunello vineyards
Honey Week (September): Celebrating local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino

Natural and Cultural Attractions

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest:

Hiking and biking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging mountain bike routes
The famous cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films
Historic abbeys including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls
Natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo
The artistic treasures of nearby Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia

Practical Information for Visitors

Accommodation

Montalcino offers diverse lodging options:

Luxury wine resorts integrated with working wineries
Historic palace hotels in the town center
Intimate bed & breakfasts in converted farmhouses
Agriturismos offering authentic farm stays
Self-catering apartments in restored village houses

Transportation

The nearest train stations are Buonconvento (10 km) and Monte Amiata-Castiglione d’Orcia (13 km)
Regular bus service connects Montalcino with Siena (40 km)
Car rental is recommended for exploring the region’s wineries
Several companies offer private driver services specialized in wine tours
Electric bike rentals are available in town for environmentally conscious exploration

Best Times to Visit

Spring (April-May): Mild temperatures and wildflowers in bloom
Early Summer (June): Perfect weather for outdoor activities
Autumn (September-November): Harvest season and cultural events
Winter (December-February): Quiet season with crisp days and cozy wine tastings

This year’s Benvenuto Brunello is supported by the SRG10 “Promotion of quality products” intervention of the Complement for Rural Development of Tuscany 2023-2027, co-financed by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), demonstrating the continued investment in promoting this exceptional wine region’s heritage and future.

The 33rd edition of Benvenuto Brunello was a comprehensive celebration of one of Italy’s most prestigious wines, offering participants an immersive experience in the tradition, innovation, and excellence that define Brunello di Montalcino. Through technical tastings, producer interactions, and educational masterclasses, the event continues to evolve while honoring the timeless appeal of this iconic Tuscan wine.

PART ll – Wine Reviews by Liz Palmer

“Dinner of the Thousand” – Bolgheri’s 30-Year Legacy at the Iconic Viale dei Cipressi

On September 4, 2024, Bolgheri, the small yet iconic wine region on the Tuscan coast, celebrated a significant milestone: 30 years of the Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia Denomination of Origin Control (DOC). This memorable evening took place at the breathtaking Viale dei Cipressi, symbolizing Bolgheri’s dedication to wine excellence and its reputation as a global icon of Italian viticulture.

The event, titled the “Dinner of the Thousand,” continued the success of the first edition in 2021, organized by the Consortium of Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC Wines. The dinner underscored the unity and teamwork among producers who have elevated Bolgheri wines to international prominence. Albiera Antinori, President of the Consortium, warmly welcomed guests, expressing pride in the region’s achievements. Over the last three decades, Bolgheri has earned a place among the world’s most celebrated wine regions. The Viale dei Cipressi—planted by Guidalberto della Gherardesca in 1832 and immortalized by poet Giosuè Carducci—enhanced the grandeur of the evening. Guests enjoyed an exceptional dinner at a one-kilometer-long table, surrounded by the iconic cypress trees.

En Primeur: A First Taste of Bolgheri’s Finest
The finest DOC wines, including en primeur selections from 74 producers, flowed freely throughout the evening, reaffirming Bolgheri’s standing as a destination of exceptional wine quality. My day began with a tasting at the Consorzio headquarters, attended by select Italian and international wine writers. The afternoon featured a preview of the Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2022 vintage—an exclusive opportunity, as the tasting occurred nearly four months before the vintage’s market release. The wines from 2022 showcased vibrant fruit and aromatic intensity. Natural acidity ensured freshness, while most wines displayed a graceful balance from start to finish, although some exhibited softer tannins typical of youthful wines.

The Unique Terroir That Defines Bolgheri’s Wines
The celebration of Bolgheri’s 30 years as a DOC highlights the region’s natural advantages. Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and surrounding hills, Bolgheri’s amphitheater-like setting provides ideal conditions for grape growing, with diverse soils and a temperate coastal climate. The intricate mix of sandy, clay-sandy, and gravelly soils forms a unique foundation for some of Italy’s most prestigious wines. The Consortium’s dedication to preserving this terroir, supported by rigorous research, has secured Bolgheri’s place as one of the world’s most sought-after wine regions, with vineyards now covering 1,350 hectares.

A Small Jewel Along the Mediterranean Coast
The DOC Bolgheri area, located within the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, spans 1,359 hectares of vineyards across 13 kilometers north to south and about 7 kilometers from west to east, ranging from 10 to 380 meters above sea level. Surrounded by the “Macchia Mediterranea,” a dense green coastal forest, Bolgheri benefits from continuous sunlight and cooling sea breezes, which foster wines with freshness and elegance. Diverse soil compositions—sandy soils near the sea, clay-sandy alluvial soils, clay-silty soils in foothill vineyards, and gravelly soils in the hills—contribute to the distinct character of Bolgheri wines. The Consorzio’s decade-long zoning study deepens the understanding of this terroir, analyzing each soil type’s potential.

Innovative Tradition: Bolgheri’s Evolving Legacy
Bolgheri’s success stems from its producers’ shared vision of quality and innovation. The region continues to evolve, adapting wine regulations to meet contemporary tastes while maintaining high standards. As a young yet esteemed district among historic Tuscan wine regions, Bolgheri began red wine production around the 1940s, when the visionary Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted French varietals, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, on his Tenuta San Guido estate. The first significant success came with the 1968 vintage of Sassicaia, a blend later hailed as one of the world’s finest wines.

Initially known for local white and rosé wines, Bolgheri’s journey shifted following the pioneering success of Tenuta San Guido. By the mid-1980s, Bolgheri had emerged as a powerhouse for red wine, producing “Super Tuscans” that garnered global acclaim. This success led to the first DOC Bolgheri red wine regulation in 1994, with a subzone for Sassicaia. In 2013, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia received official recognition, becoming Italy’s only appellation dedicated to a single estate and wine.

Bolgheri remains innovative, with recent updates in wine regulations expanding the varietals for DOC Bolgheri white wines to include Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino. Currently, Bolgheri produces three DOC red wine types: DOC Bolgheri Rosso, DOC Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia, as well as DOC Rosato (rosé) and two DOC Bianco (white) designations.

Bolgheri: A Destination for Wine Enthusiasts
Bolgheri’s prominence has also made it a magnet for wine tourism. Over the past two decades, wine estates have embraced hospitality, offering visitors the chance to experience the region’s beauty and wines. Whether exploring the vineyards or tasting wines, Bolgheri combines tradition, innovation, and natural beauty, drawing wine lovers worldwide.

As the evening drew to a close, the significance of Bolgheri’s journey over the past 30 years was clear. From modest beginnings to becoming a wine powerhouse, Bolgheri’s commitment to quality and connection to the land remain as inspiring as ever.

An Iconic Wine Destination with Unique Charm
Over the past 20 years, Bolgheri’s wine tourism has flourished, becoming a must-visit destination for international travelers. While only a few estates welcomed visitors in the early 1990s, today nearly all wineries open their doors to wine enthusiasts and professionals. A variety of hospitality options is available, from family-owned properties to renowned wineries.

The DOC philosophy encourages each winery to express its unique relationship with the environment, creating a sense of “diversity” that reflects Bolgheri’s natural elements. The landscape enchants the senses, with aromas, flavors, and picturesque villages harmonizing with the surroundings. From gently rolling hills to a stunning coastal reserve, Bolgheri enhances the experience of its exceptional wines.

The Diversity of Bolgheri: A Land of Flavor and Tradition
Bolgheri boasts a rich culinary scene, from family-style, traditional cooking to gourmet dining. The region offers diverse dining options, whether savoring countryside dishes of meat and vegetables or fresh seafood by the coast. Beyond Bolgheri’s town walls, ancient hilltop villages add to the experience, featuring artisan boutiques, open-air markets, and cozy accommodations that capture the authentic, serene Tuscan lifestyle.

Filippo Magnani