Sicilia En Primeur: Celebrating 25 Years of Assovini Sicilia’s Unified Vision for Sicilian Producers – Filippo Magnani

May 9th and 10th, the Sicilian wine community achieved a new milestone in Cefalù, Sicily with over 100 wine journalists and 59 wineries who convened to explore and evaluate over 300 labels, participate in five masterclasses, and embark on ten curated wine tours.

For over 25 years Sicilia En Primeur has been celebrating the evolution of a diverse wine region on the Mediterranean’s largest island – Its history, culture, traditions and food are as rich as they are diverse.

Some History
Assovini Sicilia was founded 25 years ago by Diego Planeta, Lucio Tasca d’Almerita and Giacomo Rallo who launched an association and has since grown in membership and international success due to their visionary and collaborative approach. The theme of this year’s event was “ Cultivating The Future” which focused on the evolution of Sicilian wine, its cultural value, wine tourism, and future prospects, with participation from journalists, producers, and industry representatives. Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia, emphasized how the association has promoted a contemporary and dynamic image of Sicily, making it a brand of significant cultural value and international appeal. The association’s success is based on innovation and adaptability, integrating new generations into company management roles and focusing on sustainability and wine tourism. Particular emphasis was on the role of the new generation of wine production in Sicily and illustrated with the poignant video entitled “Next Generation”.

The event was moderated by the prestigious journalist Gioacchino Bonsignore (TG5 Mediaset) and featured presentations from an all-star cast such as the one of Monica Larner, Italian reviewer, Robert Parker Wine Advocate who presented the Trends and Perception of Sicilian Wine in the US Market; a glance at the Past to Imagine the Future in the vineyard by Alessio Planeta, CEO Planeta winery; The Story of a Thriving Partnership by Antonio Rallo, President of the Consortium for the Protection of Sicilia DOC; The New Frontiers of Green and the Experience of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation with Alberto Tasca, President of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation and even more including the ambassador of Sicilian culture Regoli, Director of WineNews.

In addition to the conference, Sicilia En Primeur organized their yearly wine tours of the territory which gives participants a chance to delve deeper into the multitude of Sicily’s wine zones, discovering their evolution and the new frontiers of each area. I have had the chance to explore the central-southern part of the island. So, along with the prominent Nero d’Avola, the identity of Sicily in red in different versions (rosé, sparkling, fruity and light or more structured reds); there were also the whites especially Catarratto in which many producers of the area specifically believe in for the production of wonderful Classic Method Sparkling wine especially at high altitude; I could taste different versions of my beloved Frappato with its versatility and captivating juicy character also able to produce rosé, delicious bubbles or it is blended with the generally more concentrated Nero d’Avola for a perfect balance.

Casa Grazia, a Sicilian Winery by Lake Biviere, that is fully immersed in biodiversity

Prior to Sicily en Primeur 2022, we visited a number of wineries. One winery that stood out was Casa Grazia. Maria Grazia Di Francesco, CEO of Casa Grazia opened to the doors of her new cellar and welcomed us to the magnificent rural landscape of Lake Biviere Oriented Reserve. Maria is truly an advocate for women in wine – I was thrilled to meet her and her daughter. The Casa Grazia Winery is located in Gela, Southern Sicily. The family has been grape producers since the 1980’s and starting from 2005 they bottled their first wine. More recently, in 2020 they achieved organic certification.

Casa Grazia covers an area of ​​about fifty hectares, almost completely planted with vineyards, is 120 meters above sea level and a few steps from the sea. The vineyards are influenced by Lake Biviere, a natural saltwater reservoir rich in biodiversity. In this area the mild winds and sea breeze meet the warm and dry air currents of the Sicilian hinterland, creating a unique microclimate which is favorable for the cultivation of both native and international grapes: Frappato, Nero D’Avola, Moscato and Grillo along with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon all on limestone-sandy soil.

The estate has eight labels:
Two white wines: Zahara and Adorè;
Five red wines: Laetitya, Victoria 1607, Gradiva, Emiryam and Vi Veri, and
One Sparkling wine: (rosé) Euphorya.

After the tour we had a technical tasting of seven wines:

2020 ‘Euphorya’ Spumante Rose; 2021 Zahara; 2021 Adore; 2021 Laetitya; 2020 Victorya 1607; 2019 Gradiva and Emiryam.

All the wines have great balance, wonderful character, and elegance. My favorite wine was Victorya 1607.  I found out after the tasting that this wine was named as a tribute to Vittoria Colonna Enriquez, Countess Consort and regent of Modica , who in 1607 gave 75 settlers two hectares of land, on condition that they cultivate one vineyard. The vineyards also fall perfectly in the D.O.C.G. of the Cerasuolo of Vittoria, the only Sicilian D.O.C.G. The 1919 vintage of Cerasuolo di Vittoria “Victorya 1607” received a Gold Medal with 96/100 from “Decanter World Wine Awards 2021.” It was such an honor to have tasted this wine knowing the backstory.

It was wonderful to meet Maria Grazia Di Francesco, like her wines, she also has wonderful style and elegance.  Maria presented all the women at our tasting a beautiful bouquet of flowers – what a lovely surprise and memorable experience.

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Firriato “Gaudensius”: A Collection of Impressive Sparkling Wines from this Etna Producer

A few weeks ago, I had an amazing tasting experience with Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, COO of Firriato Winery, and Rossella Marino Abate, Consulente presso Firriato at Riserva Bistrot at the beautiful Cavanera Wine Resort.  Federico gave me an extensive overview of the four different expressions of their sparkling wine label “Gaudensius”.

Cavanera Wine Resort

Cavanera and its surrounding vineyards are among the most beautiful in the area. We had views of one of Firriato’s treasures, their pre-phyilloxera vineyards, with an age, determined by a dendrochronological analysis, which has certified the age of the vines to be well over 150 years. Cavanera Etnea is Italy’s first carbon neutral winery and is highly recognized for its bio-architecture.

Gaudensius – Volcanic Line

The Nerello Mascalese and Carricante varieties are grown on specific slopes on Mount Etna, which give a substantial impact on the characteristics, as well as the Etna terroir, with its mesoclimate and its sandy soils of volcanic – these all offer ideal conditions for sparkling wine.

The combination of the pedoclimatic characteristics of Etna contributes to the development of grapes that are characterized by the intensity of the aromas and aromatic finesse.

The Gaudensius label now offers four different types of sparkling wines: Blanc de noir (Etna Doc Metodo Classico Brut made with Nerello mascalese grapes, Blanc de blancs (from Carricante grapes), Rosè, also Etna Doc from Nerello Mascalese and Pas Dosè.

The Gaudensius label is the culmination of a sparkling wine project that now makes Firriato the most important producer of the classic method on Etna.

Here are my tasting notes and other details of the four Gaudensius wines, which are produced from Nerello Mascalese and Caricante, two historical native varieties growing under the volcano.

 NV Gaudensius Blanc de Blancs

Classification: Terre Siciliane Bianco Spumante

Grape Variety: Carricante 100%

Subzone: Zucconerò, Zottorinotto, Imbischi

Exposure: North (650 m a.s.l)

Soil: Volcanic, highly draining in the Cavanera Etnea estate

Training System: Guyot, permanent cordon

Harvest: Hand-picking, 2nd week of October for Carricante

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled

temperature, second fermentation in bottle

Disgorgement: 2021

Production Method: Classic method

Aging: In bottle, in contact with the yeasts for over 36 months

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.60 % vol.

Pale straw yellow in color; the nose is fresh, elegant yet complex with notes of white fruits, hazelnuts and honey, enhanced by some wonderful mineral sensations; In the mouth, it is delicate, elegant and concentrated, with a long persistence on the palate and good aromatic persistence with a savory finish perlage: fine and concentrated
Overall, a great personality – dry crisp, light with a clean finish

91/100

 

NV Gaudensius Blanc de Noir

Classification: D.O.C. Etna Spumante

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Sant’Antonio – Cottanera

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (650 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Alberello Etneo

Harvest: Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled temperature

Disgorgement: 2021

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 36 months with frequent “Coup de poignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.60 %

Pale straw yellow with some elements of bright gold hues; delivers some intense fruit and delicate Sicilian citrus notes on the nose; complex flavor, good structure – remarkable elegance; long-lasting sapid with mineral persistence – the freshness is ornamented with sense of nut and toast; perlage: fine and concentrated – an outstanding wine

92/100

 

NV Gaudensius Rosé Etna

Classification: D.O.C. Etna Spumante

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (630 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Alberello Etneo

Harvest: Hand-picked. Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and slight skin maceration. Fermentation at controlled temperature

Disgorgement: 2020

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 24 months with frequent “Coup depoignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate

Dosage: Brut

Alcohol: 12.50 % vol.

This wine takes on transparent shades of pale peach and pink; aromas of strawberries and raspberries are quite exquisite, with some light floral notes; on the palate imparts fresh, caressing sensations; a well-balanced wine, with good structure and acidity; an extremely prolonged aromatic persistence

91/100

 

Gaudensius Pas Dose

Classification: IGT Terre Siciliane

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese

Vineyard Location: North/northeastern slope of the countryside around Mt. Etna

Subzone: Verzella

Exposure: Northeastern side of the Volcano (650 metres above sea level)

Soil: Sandy, with high drainage capacity

Training System: Traditional Gobelet from Etna

Harvest: Hand-picked. Second week of September

Vinification: Soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation at controlled

temperature

Disgourgement: 2021

Production Method: Second fermentation in bottle (classic method)

Aging: In contact with the yeasts for over 48 months with frequent “Coup de

poignet” to favor the complexity on the nose and palate
Dosage: Pas dosè

Alcohol: 12.50 % vol.

Production: 3,000 bottles produced

Pale golden yellow in colour; very fine bubbles transported me to complex and a harmonious nose of white flowers, orange peel, lime, bread, and nuts; on the palate there is a beautiful savory trail of Sicilian citrus with mineral persistence – long lingering finish; A wonderful olfactory complex wine

94/100

” The demand for Etna wines is growing and is moving towards increasingly identifying and medium-high range choices ” said Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, Coo di Firriato.

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Cavanera Wine Resort – (Etna) Sicily

I arrived at Cavanera Wine Resort ….what amazing views of Mount Etna ….I certainly felt the energy of the volcano!  I can see that staying at Cavanera will seriously push this wine adventure to the next level!

The property is on the slopes of Mount Etna, approximately 650-950 metres above sea level, between the vineyards of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante and Catarratto which are on a series of terraces, covering many contradas from north-east to north slopes of the Mount Etna.  It consists of pre-phylloxera vineyards with some younger replanting activities. The andisol soil has a high silicon content of 60%, and is extremely porous. The soil substrate of basaltic rock guarantees a constant source of water for the vines. The range in temperature between day and night and the great oenological merits of the volcano being silently emitted are exhibited when you taste the wines.

The resort, an ancient farmhouse with two 17th century palmentos, has all the modern comforts, is set in an unspoilt natural landscape with fabulous mountain views. Nature certainly serves as the central wine tourism theme at the Cavanera Wine Resort.  There are 21 double rooms with interiors combining modern style and typical Sicilian charm. A few steps from one of the terraces is a beautiful saltwater pool and the entrance to the Etna Wine Bar.

La Riserva Bistrot

The on-premise restaurant, La Riserva Bistrot has a captivating modern décor and a cozy ambiance. I discovered some amazing local traditional dishes, and local wines.  The wine list is a journey to discover Sicilian authenticity from Trapani to Catania. Just to let you know – you can taste all of Firrato’s labels, including Gaudensius which is produced in three classic method styles. The staff is quite knowledgeable on Sicilian wines and the service was impeccable.

The large bistro terrace offers amazing panoramic view of the vineyards of Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, some of the historical varieties of the Volcano. The sunset here is not to be missed – It becomes magical, with a mixture of colors that merge alongside the view of the majesty of Mount Etna.

All I can say is that at La Riserva Bistrot, I had some …

“Great wine tasting experiences, paired with refined exquisite Sicilian dishes, while being surrounded by this magical volcanic landscape certainly, all made my stay here more outstanding!”

Some Facts:

The Firriato winery owns three hospitality facilities: Baglio Soria in Trapani, Calamoni di Favignana on Favignana island and Cavanera Etnea on Mt Etna

Their wines are made from indigenous Sicilian Varieties and International varieties

Organically grown grapes

The winery is 100% Carbon Neutral

Six estates where the grapes are grown: Baglio Soria – Trapani, Borgo Guarini – Trapani, Dagala Borromeo – Trapani, Pianoro- Trapani, Calamoni on the Island of Favignana and Cavanera on Mt. Etna.

 

A special “Thank You” to Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, COO Firriato Winery, and Rossella Marino Abate, Consulente Social Media presso Firriato for their warm welcome and wonderful hospitality.

 

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Drone Footage on Mount Etna [The Highest Active Volcano in Europe]

…….Pls note:  DF will be found on my Instagram @lizpalmer_

One of the most memorable highlights of my trip to Sicily was a 1.5 km hike up Mount Etna with Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, COO of Firriato wines, and Rossella Marino Abate, Consulente Social Media presso Firriato and to celebrate the trek tasting Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Rose 2021 on lava rocks.

Experiencing Mount Etna in person was like visiting a distant planet, as you can see from the footage. We had clear visibility with various cloud formations which made the trek more magical. Views of the terrain were spectacular….

We walked through startling volcanic landscapes: silver birch woods, pine forests, and lava flows.  The terrain was very challenging with the altitude changes and unstable volcanic rock, but worth it!

There are documented records of Mount Etna historical eruptions dating back to 1500 BCE. Scientists have found that activity has frequently originated from its summit areas, which include the Northeast Crater, the Voragine-Bocca Nuova complex, the Southeast Crater (formed in 1978) and the New Southeast Crater (formed in 2011).  Another crater, the “cono della sella” developed during 2017 between SEC and NSEC. Its most recent eruptive period began in September 2013 and more recently has been characterized by Strombolian explosions, ash plumes, lava fountaining, and flows.

According to the Smithsonian Institution, Global Volcanism Program Mount Etna has three volcanic types: Stratovolcano, Caldera, and Pyroclastic cone.

Stratovolcano is located:

Latitude 37.748°N

Longitude 14.999°E

Summit 3320 m

Elevation 10,892 ft

And believe it or not scientists have numbered the volcanos and Mount Etna is active Volcano Number 211060.  Its last known eruption was February 23-25 2022 CE. A brief overview of the report follows.

Last Report
February 23 – March 1 2022

INGV reported that during 23-25 February activity at Etna’s Southeast Crater (SEC) was characterized by Strombolian activity and occasional ash emissions that rapidly dispersed to the SSW and SSE. At 1338 on 24 February a forceful ash emission from Northeast Crater drifted SSE. A diffuse ash emission rose from the same crater at 1642. Emissions at Bocca Nuova Crater consisted mainly of gas with occasional minor ash content during 21-27 February.

Source: Sezione di Catania – Osservatorio Etneo (INGV)

Wine Tasting on Mount Etna

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Rose 2021

Grape Variety: Nerello Mascalese 100%

The grapes come from different areas of the North side of the Etna. The soil

composition is Loamy –sandy of volcanic origin, highly draining. Exposure is

the Northeastern side of the Volcano (720 metres above sea level).

Tasting Notes

Beautiful fine pink colour; The wine has pronounced intensity on the nose with aromas of ripe raspberries, pomegranate, and minerality; on the palate there is freshness, medium acidity, with flavors of strawberries lots of minerality through to a long finish.  A great elegant wine that reflects the territorial characteristics of its origin. 

Thank you Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, Firriato wines, and Rossella Marino Abate for this amazing memorable experience!

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