Category: Wine of France

EU Authorizes Three New Grape Varieties: Calardis Blanc, Magdeleine Noir, and Négret de la Canourgue

The French Minister of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty submitted a formal request to the European Union to update the Official Catalogue of Species and Varieties of Plants Cultivated in France. At the culmination of this process, three grape varieties, Calardis Blanc (white), Magdeleine Noir, and Négret de la Canourgue (both red) have now received official authorization.

Calardis Blanc, a hybrid derivative of Calardis Musqué and Seyve Villard 39‑639 developed by the Julius Kühn Institute (Geilweilerhof, Germany), is notable for its resistance to powdery mildew, downy mildew, and black rot. Previously approved since 2020 in Germany’s Rhineland‑Palatinate, it is now cleared for cultivation across France, where it is expected to yield wines with rich aromatic complexity, exotic fruit profiles, and pronounced acidity, traits favourable for sparkling wine production.

Magdeleine Noir, also referred to as ‘Black Magdeleine’, originated in Brittany and has been identified in the Charentes. It is genetically linked to Merlot and is described as a balanced cultivar of considerable complexity.

Négret de la Canourgue, hailing from the Tarn Valley, is characterized by vigorous growth, strong yields, late ripening, and a pale colour, qualities that render it especially suitable for lightweight rosé wine production.

This regulatory decision aligns with broader EU and national strategies to modernize and diversify viticultural production. As of late 2024, France had authorized 357 grape varieties for wine production and labelling, compared with roughly 700 in Italy, 260 in Spain, and 343 in Portugal. Meanwhile, Germany had approximately 465 permissible varieties, and Greece around 206.

The Rise of Hybrid and Resilient Varieties

Amid mounting climate-related pressures on traditional viticulture, hybrid grape varieties are gaining prominence. A study published in Nature Reviews Earth and Environment cautions that up to 70% of current winemaking regions may become unsuitable under continued average temperature increases. Hybrids like Calardis Blanc are championed for their disease resistance, reduced cultivation costs, and adaptability to extreme climate events, alongside their capacity to deliver higher yields with less intensive input demands.

Fresh Perspectives: The White and Rosé Evolution of Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages

Traditionally celebrated for their structured reds, Côtes du Rhône (CDR) and Côtes du Rhône Villages (CDRV) are gaining prominence for an unexpected yet compelling shift: the emergence of their white and rosé wine!  Although representing less than 10% of total production, these whites are capturing the attention of sommeliers and wine lovers for their aromatic complexity and nuanced expressions.

This evolution rests upon three foundational elements: a diverse range of terroirs, an expansive array of authorized grape varieties, and the meticulous craft of blending. Together, these factors enable a palette of expressions and styles, from crisp and lively whites to rich and complex expressions, and from delicate, aromatic rosés to full-bodied, gastronomic wines.

WHITE WINES: FROM BRIGHT TO STRUCTURED

FRESH & LIVELY

Key grape varieties include Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Piquepoul Blanc. Grown on cool, often clay-based soils, grapes are harvested early to preserve freshness and acidity while keeping alcohol levels in check. Fermentation occurs at low temperatures (12–18°C) and in oxygen-free environments to retain varietal aromas of citrus, flowers, and white fruit, with typical grapefruit notes. The palate is lively, fresh, and balanced, perfect as an aperitif or paired with summer salads and goat cheese.

FRUITY & ROUND

A richer interpretation, featuring grapes like Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, and Roussanne, sourced from various terroirs. Harvested at optimal ripeness, these wines are vinified at 12–18°C to maintain freshness and aromatic expression. Expect notes of exotic and stone fruits (mango, peach, apricot), with a round mouthfeel balanced by bright acidity. Excellent with ceviche, roast poultry, or soft cheeses.

RICH & COMPLEX

Whites that leave a lasting impression. Made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Carignan Blanc, Marsanne, and Roussanne, these wines come from diverse terroirs and are harvested at more advanced ripeness without becoming over-concentrated. They often undergo extended aging, frequently in oak. The aromatic profile is complex, combining ripe, stewed, or candied fruits, dried fruits, spices, and minerality, with occasional toasty, honeyed, or woody notes. The palate is rich and round with great length, perfect for full meals and with excellent aging potential.

ROSÉ WINES: TWO DISTINCT EXPRESSIONS

FRUITY & DELICATE

These rosés are primarily made from Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan, sometimes with authorized white varieties to enhance acidity. Grown on cool sites and harvested early to preserve freshness and keep alcohol low. Vinified by direct pressing or short maceration, these wines reveal intense aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, and candy. The palate is light, balanced, and refreshing. Best enjoyed young and ideal as an aperitif.

FRUITY & FULL BODIED

A more traditional, full-bodied rosé that emphasizes roundness, balance, and terroir expression. Made mostly from Syrah, with Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault, these wines are harvested at full ripeness. Vinified by direct pressing or short saignée, they showcase ripe red fruit, delicate floral notes, and soft spices. The palate is structured and concentrated with good length and a deeper hue—a gastronomic rosé to enjoy within two years.

A New Chapter for the Rhône
From the high-altitude vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône to the sun-drenched slopes of the Côtes du Rhône Villages, these white and rosé wines now stand as a compelling reflection of the region’s heritage and its evolving winemaking identity. Fresh, elegant, and character-driven, they invite rediscovery and present a valuable opportunity for trade professionals seeking hidden gems with a strong sense of place.

Tasting Notes from the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages

To complement the rich discussion of the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages’ evolving whites and rosés, here are three standout examples from the 2023 and 2024 vintages that capture the essence of this movement.

Cellier des Dauphins Prestige Rosé 2024 – 90 Points / Liz Palmer
A luminous pale pink hue introduces this elegant rosé, which reveals delicate aromas of fresh strawberries and redcurrant, with subtle floral undertones. The palate delivers a crisp and balanced expression of red berry fruit, complemented by a fine mineral spine with a long fruit-driven finish. An ideal example of the Côtes du Rhône rosé style, refreshing, poised, and effortlessly approachable.

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2024 – 91 Points / Liz Palmer
A classic Côtes du Rhône blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Roussanne, this wine captures the vibrancy of the region. The nose unfolds with fragrant aromas of white flowers, ripe pear, and stone fruit. The palate is energetic and crisp, offering a harmonious interplay of fruit and floral notes, supported by a rounded, well-structured body with a long, elegant finish. An excellent example of the aromatic precision and balance that define Rhône whites.

Gabriel Meffre Laurus Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023 – 93 Points / Liz Palmer
A captivating nose of honeysuckle, stone fruit, and citrus zest evolves beautifully in this premium Côtes du Rhône blanc. The palate delivers a rich and textural experience, with flavours of juicy peach, crisp apple, and preserved lemon, framed by a luminous acidity with a delicate, mineral undertone. The finish is long, complex, and richly rewarding, making this a compelling example of the depth and aging potential that the best whites of the region can achieve.

Experience Wine Tourism in Bourgogne This Summer: From Cellar Doors to Wine Festivals

Throughout the summer, the Bourgogne wine region will come alive with a rich mix of heritage, culture, and vibrant wine celebrations. From Chablis to Mâcon, 252 wineries, estates, and cooperative cellars [all certified under the Vignobles & Découvertes label] will open their doors and invite visitors to step inside and experience the historic charm, quaint villages, and world‑renowned wines of the region.

To make planning easy, Vins du Bourgogne has published a digital Guide to Certified Wine Cellars, which offers all the practical information, including opening hours, tasting options, accommodation details, languages spoken, and environmental practices.

Link to Guide: https://tinyurl.com/4fh377s9

There also will be a lively lineup of wine festivals taking over the villages from concerts, vineyard tours and open‑cellar tastings to music, theatre, artisanal markets, and gourmet celebrations. Vins du Bourgogne has also published a Guide to Wine Festivals, which is another great resource.

Link to Guide: https://tinyurl.com/4fh377s9

Summer in Bourgogne is an invitation to slow down, explore, and experience the very heart of this historic winemaking region, where every tasting, walk, and gathering is rooted in its distinctive terroir and timeless traditions.

Erni Loosen Launches a New Winemaking Project in Burgundy

Internationally renowned winemaker Erni Loosen announces the launch of Perron de Mypont, his new winemaking project in Burgundy. A passionate and lifelong collector of Pinot Noir from around the world, Erni has long dreamed of producing wine in Burgundy, the variety’s birthplace. That dream has now become a reality. The initial releases from Perron de Mypont will be available to U.S. consumers beginning May 2025.

“I fell in love with Burgundy about 50 years ago, during a winemaking internship there,” said Loosen. “I was immediately struck by the similarities between Riesling and Pinot Noir, which are both cool-climate varieties that can make truly profound wines that develop beautifully with age. Since then, I’ve dreamed of making my own wine in Burgundy. And it’s finally happening!”

Perron de Mypont is based at the Vieux Château de Puligny-Montrachet, in the famed village in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. In 2019, Erni acquired the east wing of the 15th-century “Old Château” and began work on a multi-year restoration project. He also established his own négociant company and began working with growers and producers to create his own collection of wines, made to his personal standards for high quality and exceptional ageability.

Erni’s partner in Perron de Mypont is Manoël Bouchet, a long-time collaborator, highly esteemed wine professional and denizen of Burgundy, with deep expertise in the region’s terroir and legacy. Their shared vision is to produce wines that are true to the heritage and culture of the Burgundy region by blending proven traditional methods with a modern winemaking approach to ensure superior wine quality and value.

For Erni and Mano, the signature of true Burgundy wine is an elegant blend of balance, minerality and finesse. To achieve this fine balance in the wines, this alliance of good friends combines the Négociant model of sourcing finished wines with the Parcellaire approach of working directly with individual growers and specific vineyard parcels. The wines are offered in two tiers: Maison Perron de Mypont and Edition Perron de Mypont.

The Maison tier is for regional wines sourced through the traditional Burgundy Négociant system. The dedication to value is particularly evident in this tier, which blends stringently selected grapes and wines from multiple growers to maintain affordability, without compromising quality. The Maison’s initial offerings include Bourgogne AOC Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the 2022 vintage.

For the more limited Villages and Premier Cru appellations of the Edition tier, Erni and Mano pursue excellence through close collaboration with growers, emphasizing a focus on specific climats. This is the Parcellaire approach, which benefits from the practice of maturing the wines in the growers’ cellars to harness their unique environments and capture a genuine expression of terroir. It also fosters long-term relationships with growers to build a consistent portfolio of wines.

The initial Edition offerings include 2022 Meursault, 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin, 2023 Volnay, 2022 Meursault Premier Cru Perrières, 2019 Vougeot Premier Cru, and 2022 Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots.

New Findings Establish Historical Continuity Between Versailles Vineyard and 18th-Century Winemaking Practice 

A centuries-old vineyard in Versailles dating back to 1787 has been brought back to life by Adrien Pélissié, a former Bordeaux winegrower and now owner of La Bouche du Roi winery in Versailles. While looking through historic regional maps, Pélissié made a remarkable discovery: the vineyard he planted in 2017, in the unusual shape of a shark’s fin, matched the exact location and layout of one marked on an 18th-century map, created 230 years earlier.

In the 17th century, the Île-de-France was France’s largest winegrowing region, with vineyards stretching across tens of thousands of hectares. However, by the early 20th century, viticulture in the region had virtually vanished. Any hope of bringing it back was quashed by French regulations brought in during the 1950s, which restricted commercial viticulture in Versailles and other parts of the country. That changed on January 1, 2016, when new EU regulations lifted restrictions on vineyard planting rights, paving the way for the revival of the region’s historic vineyards.

Pélissié states: “I was really moved when I realized that someone had planted vines in the exact same spot, hundreds of years ago. The vineyard even has the same distinctive shape—it curves like a shark’s fin. It’s a humbling thought, that someone back then saw the same potential in this land that we do today. We feel very fortunate to be part of the story of this place, bringing viticulture back to the region and honoring the French tradition that came before us.”

The discovery was made using the Plans d’Intendance, detailed cartographic surveys commissioned under Louis XV and Louis XVI. The specific map that revealed the vineyard’s past was dated 1787.

Today, the renaissance of viticulture in Île-de-France is well underway. Around 130 hectares (320 acres) of vines are now planted across the region, with La Bouche du Roi leading the charge. Situated in the former royal hunting grounds of the Plaine de Versailles—just 30 minutes from Paris—it is the region’s largest vineyard, spanning 27 hectares (67 acres).

About La Bouche du Roi

Founded in 2017 by Adrien Pélissié, La Bouche du Roi is a pioneering estate located just 30 minutes from Paris, on the historic Plaine de Versailles—the former hunting grounds of the Kings of France. The 27-hectare (67-acre) vineyard is farmed organically and planted with six grape varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc for whites; Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc for reds. The winery, which French newspaper Le Figaro called the “most remarkable” discovery of 2024, welcomes visitors by appointment.

The estate takes its name from La Bouche du Roi, the esteemed royal household service responsible for overseeing the King’s table, including the sommeliers, cupbearers, and chefs who ensured the quality of food and wine served at the court of Versailles.

La Bouche du Roi is distributed via Bordeaux négociants (La Place de Bordeaux). In the United States, its wines are exclusively imported by Maison Barrière and are available in several states. They can be found in restaurants such as PerSe by Thomas Keller (New York), restaurants by Alain Ducasse (Paris), and Lafayette in Miami.

Two of the estate’s labels are also featured on Wine.com, making them easily accessible to consumers nationwide.