Category: Wine Review

Susana Balbo, a trailblazer in the wine industry, renowned for her pioneering contributions as Argentina’s first female winemaker and the visionary owner of Susana Balbo Wines. Her academic journey began with a transition from nuclear physics to enology, culminating in her graduation with honors from Don Bosco University in Mendoza in 1981. Navigating the challenges posed by a traditionally male-dominated profession, she revolutionized the Argentine wine sector and gained recognition for her innovative approach to viticulture. Her expertise in cultivating and refining Torrontés—a signature white grape variety of Argentina—earned her the title of “Queen of Torrontés.” Today, Susana Balbo’s winery stands as a testament to her resilience, creativity, and commitment to elevating Argentine wines on the global stage.

Expanding on her extraordinary journey and accomplishments, Susana Balbo opens up with me in this thoughtful and engaging interview, offering invaluable insights into her experiences, challenges, and aspirations for the future.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Susana Balbo: In my early days in Cafayate, I did not know any. There was no internet; I lived in a completely isolated town. We did not have a telephone, let alone any means of communication to connect with other women in the world. I did not travel the world either. Therefore, my inspiration has fundamentally been an obsession with quality. One of my teachers was Father Francisco Oreglia, who was the founder of the Technological School of Oenology and Fruit and Vegetable Industries in Mendoza. He was a perfectionist, and always inspired me to do things exceptionally well, constantly improving and getting better. However, at that time, I did not know any women from the wine world. Once the internet became available and information was easier to access, I already had over fifteen years of experience in my profession and was traveling around the world as a wine consultant. Honestly, I consider myself a self-made woman.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Susana Balbo: When I arrived in Cafayate, Salta, in 1981, Torrontés made up 75% of the grapes planted in the winery where I worked. Therefore, either I had to learn how to make good Torrontés wines or my job would not last long. Putting that aside, which is more anecdotal today, what I do differently is to work in a very respectful way with the variety, leaving aside some aromas in order to achieve complexity and elegance. What I see in Torrontés is an incredible versatility that allows you to create all kinds of things: you can make alcohol-free juices, low-alcohol wines with interesting aromas, natural sweet wines for young people who enjoy sweet, chilled wines, more serious wines fermented in oak barrels, and you can even use it for blends. It is a variety of extraordinay versatility, and it expresses a very distinct personality depending on the soil and terroir where it is grown. Its possibilities are endless.

A more recent achievement for which I feel deeply grateful is being recognized by Decanter with the prestigious Decanter Hall of Fame 2024 award. I share this accomplishment with my team, who have supported me throughout the years, and especially with my two children, who have been by my side for the past 12 years.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Susana Balbo: We have recently implemented several technological innovations in our winemaking process. One of them is the use of a press that employs inert gases, allowing us to better preserve the quality of the must during pressing by minimizing oxidation.

Additionally, we are using clayvers and amphorae in various shapes (spherical, oval, horizontal, and vertical) to determine which provides the best results in both the fermentation and aging of white wines.

We have also incorporated the use of special barrels, known as “Perle,” which work under pressure and enable carbonic maceration and fermentation with minimal intervention. This results in red wines with remarkable aromatic purity and excellent structure.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Susana Balbo: We believe that sustainability means performing actions with commitment. That is why we have worked as a team on defining our purpose: we nurture a culture of shared growth in all our relationships, aiming to boost the development of people and resources. We always work on creating value in terms of sustainability’s three dimensions: the people, the environment and the business.

As regards the environment, we focus on its preservation in every step of the winemaking process: from the vineyard to the bottle. Regarding the vineyards, we take care of them with the highest global standards of quality and sustainability. Significantly, our vineyard in Agrelo (where the winery is located) is certified organic, showcasing our dedication to environmentally friendly practices. Our daily hard work, for instance, is reflected on the Sustainability Certificate issued by Bodegas de Argentina. In addition, last year we renewed our BRC Global Standard for Food Safety certification, an achievement that reveals our commitment to quality and the environment. Some of the winery’s eco-friendly practices I can mention are:  managing the use of energy in our daily activities, disposing of waste in a responsible manner and recycling important materials such as cork, wood, cardboard and nylon, using kraft boxes and bottles that are lighter than the traditional ones, implementing a drip irrigation system for vineyards and reusing sewer water coming from the common-use areas, among others.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Susana Balbo: As a winery that constantly pursues innovation, we believe it is important to offer products that meet the needs of these consumers. In 2022, we launched our sub-line CRIOS SUSTENTIA, focused on responsible consumption and ecological awareness. Under this premise, we offer a Chardonnay—being exclusively for the international market—with an alcohol content of 8 to 9 degrees, considered as a “light wine.” It is low in alcohol by Argentine standards, where due to our climate, it is easy for both whites and rosés—and even more so for red wines—to reach levels above 13 degrees.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: We stay up to date with the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry through continuous learning about new developments. This includes reading scientific journals, attending technological conferences, and participating in technical talks. Additionally, we keep close contact with industry colleagues, which enriches our knowledge and allows us to exchange experiences.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: To be able to lead and make changes in the industry we sometimes have to leave our comfort zone.

Another piece of advice is to focus on making quality wines, each of them reflecting the doer’s personality. Likewise, the story behind a wine must be consistent with that wine and with what the consumer tastes. A wine is recommended to others when the consumer and the clients quickly perceive consistency. Therefore, to enter into the world of wine, one must be convinced that there is a rocky road ahead but it is not an impossible road to take. This path should be clearly consistent with one’s goals.

Wine Tasting Notes
Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022
and
Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

This Torrontés is the first of its kind, produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet.

A luminous pale golden hue. On the nose, it offers a captivating bouquet of orange blossom and white peach, complemented by subtle undertones of nutmeg and vanilla derived from its four months of fermentation in French oak barrels. On the palate, the wine delivers a lively and harmonious profile, with vibrant floral and citrus notes balanced by a creamy texture with some hints of toast from the oak. Its crisp acidity provides excellent structure, leading to a refined and lingering finish. This innovative expression of Torrontés highlights the influence of high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022

“Making great wines requires courage, determination and passion. With over forty years of experience since my start as the first female winemaker in Argentina I am proud to off the best of myself through my signature wines.  This Malbec is one of the most cherished wines from my winery.  Produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet” Susana Balbo

This Malbec exemplifies elegance and depth, showcasing the unique character of high-altitude Mendoza vineyards. In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby color with violet undertones. The nose is expressive and layered, offering aromas of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, intertwined with hints of violet, mocha, and a touch of sweet spice.

On the palate, this Susana Balbo Signature Malbec is full-bodied yet impeccably balanced, with silky tannins and a vibrant acidity that provides structure and freshness. The fruit flavors are complemented by subtle notes of dark chocolate and toasted oak, a result of careful aging in French oak barrels. The finish is long and refined, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and complexity.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

 Susana Balbo Website:  https://en.susanabalbowines.com.ar/