Wine in Trentino Alto Adige, A Taste of the Dolomites – by Michele Shah [Part ll]

Trentino (the province of Trento) and Alto Adige (the more northerly province of Bolzano, also known as the South Tyrol or Südtirol, bordering Austria, unified to Italy in 1919, after World War I, share a range of fragrant white wines and German-accented syllables. Both Trentino and the Alto Adige produce notable amounts of the popular Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon, as well as Pinot Bianco, and Riesling.  While the more aromatic Müller-Thurgau, Moscato, Sylvaner and Gewürztraminer, which is said to take its name from Alto Adige village of Tramin, can be enticingly perfumed and unexpectedly age-worthy.

One main distinction between Trentino and Alto Adige is that production in Alto Adige comes mainly from small family-owned estates that sell their wines locally with limited exports to Germany and Austria. Trentino on the other hand counts on a large number of growers, and members of large cooperatives, such as Cavit and Mezzacorona. These popular wines have found their niche, both in Italy and abroad, among wine drinkers who look for reasonably good and affordable wines for daily enjoyment.

Alto Adige is divided by its waterways, the Adige River and the Isarco River, thus creating two valleys. The vineyards are dotted around the banks of the rivers rising from an altitude of 200 to 1,000 meters into the hills. Bolzano to Trento is an easy 60km and indications are well signposted with good restaurants, hotels and excellent wineries on the way.

Cooperatives in Trentino-Alto Adige, go as far back as the Hapsburg Empire and are quite common representing the lion’s share of production. Cooperative farming in Trentino-Alto Adige played a fundamental role, its success stems from the necessity to create an effective economic system for the region’s fragmented farming industry, including that of viticulture, the average grape grower owns little more than 1ha, and most vineyards rise up the mountainsides as spectacular steep terraced vineyards, some still using the ‘pergola’ system.

Cantina Terlano (www.kellerei-terlan.com), a cooperative founded in 1893, just above Bolzano at Terlano is one of the best expressions of ‘heroic vineyards’ in Alto Adige producing exquisite white wines, in particular its Pinot Blanc from the terraced Vorberg vineyards. Well worth the drive to visit the vineyards above Terlan.

Cantina Girlan (www.girlan.it) has built up a leading position as a Pinot Noir producer – with wines of great character and remarkable elegance. In the last few years, Cantina Girlan set itself still higher goals and conducted a search for a single site capable of producing an outstanding Pinot Noir combining an international standard of quality with the authenticity of the terroir. The choice finally made was a monopole site by the name of Ganger, home of the Pinot Noir Riserva Vigna Ganger.

Cantina Nals Margreid (www.kellerei.it)is a “star on Alto Adige’s wine scene. Their wines have received the highest accolades from prestigious wine publications, including Wine Enthusiast, Wine and Spirits, Wine Spectator and James Suckling. Their whites are particularly interesting, exhibiting an intense minerality and acidity.

Termeno or Tramin is home to Martin Foradori’s family estate, Hostätter, (www.hofstatter.com) one of Alto Adige’s historic estates established in 1907 especially to experience the zesty aromatic Gewurtztraminer of Tramin, his majestic single vineyard Pinot Noir Barthenau, Vinga S. Urbano is where Itlay’s best Pinot noir comes from 100-year-old vines of the Mazzon site, as well as home to local Lagrein.  Bolzano is one of Alto Adige’s top areas for red wines, including the light indigenous Schiava wines.  The surrounding chain of mountains creates a perfect microclimate characterized by warm summers protecting the vines, giving good ripeness.

As you reach Trentino, I suggest you visit the family-run Endrizzi estate (www.endrizzi.it). A beautiful old family house and estate at San Michele all’Adige producing some authentic indigenous and elegant varietal wines such as Pinot Grigio, Nosiola, Müller Thurgau in the whites and Teroldego Rotaliano, Lagrein, in the reds.  Top bottling includes their Masetto range. The estate has a well-stocked shop and a nice setting for a light snack.

Elisabetta Foradori’s (www.elisabettaforadori.com) a family-run certified biodynamic estate at Mezzolombardo, well worth a visit, produces indigenous wines from Teroldego, Pinot Grigio, Nosiola and Manzoni Bianc. Elisabetta is sought out for her Teroldego, characterized by its deep granite hue and soft tannins.  Her cellar with its hand-crafted amphorae which come all the way from an artisan in Spain is a must to see and a tasting with Elisabetta is a wonderful experience as she explains the importance of biodiversity in winemaking.

Trentino, which pioneered sparkling wine made by the classic method early in the century, has retained its leading position and these sparklers are now grouped under Trentodoc appellation. They are predominantly Chardonnay based, and the extensive amounts of Chardonnay in Trentino’s vineyards reflects the importance of this production. Today a fair amount of Pinot Noir is also used in Trentodoc production.  A visit to Ferrari, (www.cantineferrari.it) one of the oldest sparkling estates is a real eye-opener to premium Italian sparkling wines. If you have the time stop at the one starred Michelin Locanda Margon and then visit the family’s jewel which is Villa Margon.

South of Trento two distinctively different estates show up for the quality of their wines.  The first near Volano is home to Eugenio Rosi, a controversial, yet authentic production of the indigenous Marzemino wine, showing a fruity vibrant character, very enjoyable and versatile.  Slightly further south near Avis is Tenuta San Leonardo estate (www.sanleonardo.it), home to one of Italy’s premium age-worthy Bordeaux-style blends of extreme elegance and harmony. Top bottling Villa Gresti is a selection of 90% Merlot with 10% Carmenère.   This is another must, as the estate is comprised a large parkland and houses an interesting museum of farm machinery and tools, but above all the family Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga if in house are absolutely delightful hosts.

About Michèle Shah

Michèle Shah has championed and promoted Italian wines for more than 30 years. A noted marketer, writer, communicator and judge, she works with producers across Italy. She is passionate about bringing the quality and diversity of authentic Italian wine to an international audience: her “Speedtasting®” b2b tastings have helped hundreds of producers find new export markets. Her clients include the Consorzi of both famous and emerging Italian wine denominations. A great lover of Italian gastronomy and heritage, Michele also organises wine tours for businesses and enthusiasts. These allow her to share her infectious love for Italian culture, deep wine knowledge, and connections with many inspiring figures in Italian wine. 

Duca di Salapurata Group [Toronto Tasting] by Sergii Daragan

There wouldn’t be a better beginning of the week than a wonderful wine and food pairing dinner with industry colleagues, and maestro winemaker Roberto Magnisi, at Eataly, Toronto.

Roberto Magnisi gave a presentation on the wines we tasted, which are currently not available in Canada.  Great pairings with fine Italian cuisine – we also travel around Sicily through his exciting stories and passion for  wine. We also had the chance to taste “Engine Gin” which blew my mind.

The Wine of the Night

The wine of the night was Duca Enrico Nero D’Avola 2018 – strong, round, well-balanced, with lots of character, and scents of wood.

The Pairing of the Night 

The pairing of the night was the stunning Marsala Vergine Riserva VR1609 2009 with lightly fried market fish, seafood, and vegetables. The unforgettable salty caramel chocolate nose of Marsala intense the flavor of lemon sprayed Fritto Misto di Mare by adding some sweetness to the oily and salty seafood and fish. This sweetness made all flavors more intense and they were popping on the tongue. Definitely worth trying.

The full list of wines tasted:

  1. Lavico Etna Bianco Carricante, 2021
  2. Sentiero Vento Vermentino, 2021
  3. Marsala Vergine Riserva VR 1609, 2009
  4. Lavico Etna Rosso Nerello Mascalese, 2020
  5. Duca Enrico Nero D’Avola, 2018
  6. Passo Delle Mule Nero D’Avola, 2020
  7. Florio Marsala Vergine Riserva VR0504, 2004
  8. Florio Marsala Semisecco Superiore Riserva SR2715, 2015

It was so great to meet everyone, thank you so much for such a great evening!   Sergii

@ducadisalaparuta @cantineflorio @eatalytoronto

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Eugenio Collavini Winery – Part l

The History
Eugenio Collavini is one of the original, pioneering wine producers in Friuli-Venezia Giuli. Not only was Collavini the first in the area to introduce many different styles and techniques to the region, he also revived Ribolla Gialla and created the first sparkling wine from this varietal.

The history of Eugenio Collavini is quite interesting – beginning with the founder, Eugenio Collavini, who supplied wine to stores and noble families back in 1896, followed by his son Giovanni who led the wine estate and business through both world wars. The next generation, Manlio Collavini, who was Giovanni’s son, move the wine business to Corno di Rosazzo and where he introduced “advanced science of oenology” as well as established the head office with the purchase of a XVI Century Manor.

Manlio Collavini is a true pioneer and one of the most respected producers in Italy and is best known for reviving Friuli’s renowned autochthonous grape variety Ribolla Gialla, and bringing Friuli wines to global markets. Here are some of his accomplishments:

  1. Producing a new Pinot Grigio [fermented off the skins] vinified in white;
  2. Began bottling in transparent Bordeaux bottles [to show the pale and bright colours of his wines];
  3. In 1971 he created lI Grigio [trending sparkling wine/from Pinot Grigio grapes]; and
  4. At the end of the ‘70s he produced sparkling Ribolla Gialla, his biggest success to date! [this variety is rare and an ancient native Friuli variety] – this is known as the “Collavini Method”.

The wine estate remains family-owned and continues to be managed by Manlio and his two sons Giovanni and Liugi.

Dachshund Image in Corporate Branding
This logo is a symbol of love between Manlio Collavini and his first dachshund “Ribolla”, who has since passed and is now a tribute.  You will find Ribolla on the Pinot Grigio label.

Location
The wine estate is located in Corno di Rosazzo, with the vineyards being located in both Collio and Collio Orientali DOC appellations.  These two DOCs have had the highest accolades and awards in Friuli. Collio has an abundance of hills, slopes and terraces and is on the border of Slovenia. Collavini currently has 170 hectares under vines and produce 1.5 million bottles/year, with 50% being exported to 50 international markets.

Soil and Climate
Friuli has unique soil and climatic conditions.

The soils here consist of layers of marl and sandstone or ponca – this imparts salinity and a slight mineral edge to the wines.  Ponca is composed of marine fossils from the Adriatic Sea.

Winegrowing in Friuli is marked by the meeting of mountain and sea, rain and wind. This region exists on the edge of the Mediterranean climate, where summers are warm, springs threaten frost, fall is typically rainy, and vintage variation can be considerable

Grape Varieties:
The focus is on local indigenous varieties, including: Ribolla Gialla, Pignolo, Schiopettino and Fruliano, as well as some international varieties, particularly for sparkling wines.

Continues with …Eugenio Collavini Winery – Part ll – Tasting through the range with Luigi Collavini

#collaviniwines #eugeniocollavini #studioCru #makeyourmark #madeinitaly #italianwine #italianwinelovers #italiansparklingwine #vino #winetasting #collliodoc #winetravel #winelife #friuliveneziagiulia #collavinimethod #rosso #colavini

Delaire Graff Estate, South Africa – Part ll Wine Tasting

History
The estate was founded in 1679 by Simon van der Stel. Simon brought with him a sound knowledge of viticulture. In 1982 John Platter (wine writer) purchased the estate which was then known as Avontuur. Looking at the magnificent view, John decided to rename the wine farm Delaire Estate, meaning “From the Sky”. Laurence Graff, Chairman of Graff Diamonds International acquired the estate in 2003 and vowed to transform it into South Africa’s most desirable art, hospitality and wine destination. In just three years the estate was rated one of the top ten wine producers in South Africa.

The Estate
The estate currently owns 20 hectares of vineyards which are located on the slopes of Botmaskop Mountain. The vines benefit from a north-facing aspect as well as high-altitude and maritime influences. Winemaker Morné Vrey produces excellent red blends dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with impressive single block Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, a 100% Cabernet Franc rosé, and some supremely elegant vintages.

It is interesting to note that Delaire Graff Estate wines rank among the most prestigious in the Southern Hemisphere, where their cutting-edge 450-ton gravity-fed Estate winery is a celebration of both old and new.

After a lengthy tour of the “Owner’s Villa” we headed to the main building walking through breathtaking landscaped gardens, stunning sculptures, and art.  It’s interesting to note that the gardens have over 350 indigenous plants, exotic plants and flowers.

Once inside I had to ask …. for a brief visit to the Graff Diamonds store as it begs for further investigation. Once inside (no photos allowed) it was certainly the ultimate experience — so many enticing pieces and iconic stones were on display. I felt like I was inside a beautifully designed jewelry box.

After a twenty-minute conversation with the Assistant Manager on Graff Diamond’s history, we headed off to the Delaire Graff Tasting Room.

On route, we came across Laurence Graff’s recent acquisition the original of Vladimir Tretchikoff’s ‘Chinese Girl’, which is currently displayed at the entrance of the winery. This is said to be one of the most recognizable paintings in the world.

Delaire Graff Tasting Room
The Tasting Room offers incredible mountain and vineyard views. The sommeliers were quite knowledgeable on South African wines, and their service was quite intuitive – this is certainly hospitality at its best!

Delaire Graff Estate Wines Tasted

Delaire Graff Estate ‘Sunrise’ Brut MCC 

The Backstory
This wine was named after the magnificent 118.08 carat “Delaire Sunrise Diamond” the largest square emerald cut fancy vivid yellow diamond in the world.

Alcohol: 12.5%
Method: Traditional Method
Dosage: Brut
Blend: 58% Chenin Blanc, 34% Chardonnay & 8% Cabernet Franc

Tasting Notes
Light yellow gold in colour; a stream of fine and persistent bubbles; with green apple and melon dominating the nose; the palate shows finesse and intensity, some citrus flavours [lemon and grapefruit] along with toasty brioche; zesty and fresh – elegantly balanced; lovely long yeasty citrus finish.

The Delaire Graff Sunrise Brut MCC spoils the eye with its radiant, golden colour and unquestionably lives up to its name!
92/100

2022 Delaire Graff Estate Rose Cabernet Franc

The Backstory
This unique Rosé is handpicked and gently pressed to obtain the perfect, subtle salmon pink hue.  This wine is also a Delaire Graff Estate employee favorite.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc

Tasting Notes
Medium-intensity salmon in color; has aromas of strawberry, red plum, dark berries with a hint of candy floss; a creamy and structured palate with layered flavours of fresh strawberry, red berries, cassis, and a seductive spicy finish.
92/100

2021 Delaire Graff Banghoek Reserve Chardonnay (Estate)

Backstory
Winemaker Morné Vrey is committed to meticulous vineyard management.  The grapes are handpicked, whole bunch pressed, fermented, and matured in small French oak barrels for 10 months.

Alcohol: 13.6%
Varietal: 100% Chardonnay

Tasting Notes
The wine is a buttery yellow hue; complex aromas of citrus, peaches, concomitant spice, vanilla and salted butter; The palate repeats the aromas with to a long lingering finish.
94/100

2019 Delaire Graff Estate Banghoek Reserve Merlot

Backstory
These wines come from the oldest vineyards on the Estate.  These wines are a raconteur weaving the tale of the property’s humble beginnings. Expressions of the site’s splendor, with its rich earthiness and bountiful fruit. These Single Vineyard wines are also handpicked and are matured in 80% new French oak for 16 months.  Vinification – extensive sorting of the grapes formed part of the quality management process. The grapes were de-stemmed only, not crushed, to ensure gentle extraction of fruit flavours.

Alcohol: 14.5 %
Varietal: 100% Merlot

Tasting Notes:
Firm and well balanced, this Merlot is characterized by spice, dark plum and dark red berry flavours and aromas whilst silky, ripe tannins with a long and lingering finish; a luxurious elegant wine.
93/100

Conclusion
What an extraordinary experience to sip Delaire Graff terroir-specific award-winning wines with these stunning views of the Winelands and being surrounded by Laurence Graff’s personal art collection.

From Laurence Graff’s own words

“Delaire means ‘from the sky’, and the wines we craft here are an invitation to savour this unique piece of heaven and earth in Stellenbosch.”
Laurence Graff

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Anteprima Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022 – an immersive experience in one of the most ancient red wine zones of Tuscany – Filippo Magnani

The unmissable preview of “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” was held inside the Fortress of Montepulciano at the end of March in the centre of the medieval town. The doors were officially reopened to the public. For the first day of the event, wine journalists and Trade from the Montepulciano area had the opportunity to not only taste the wines, but to also meet the producers behind these beloved productions of refined quality. Two main vintages were presented:  Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, considered a great vintage, and the Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018.

The Consorzio of Nobile di Montepulciano had previously introduced a variation to the chart of regulations last year introducing 12 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive called “Pievi .” The name conceals the roots of the past of this Tuscan territory, and it refers to the social organization in smaller areas and the role of the monastic orders since late Roman and Lombard times.

The wine estates together with a select scientific research group, have carried out studies on both the geological and pedological side of the territory and an in-depth analysis of the territory’s history. The project started during the pandemic, and it has culminated with the production of 500,000 bottles that will be labelled Pieve, and which oversaw the public administration and its boundaries.

The bottles waiting to become Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve are now maturing, and we will have to wait until 2024 to appreciate the extraordinary work done by the consortium and the producers.  The new qualification of the vineyards of Montepulciano lays another brick in the consolidation of identity and a clearer recognition of the extraordinary Tuscan wine territory.

 

MY TASTINGS at “ANTEPRIMA”

My favourite wines:

Winery: Poliziano
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2019

Ruby core with rims. Intense bouquet of cherry with balsamic overtones and slight scent of black pepper. Lovely entrance, round with ripe fruit, medium body. Firm, velvety tannins with a long finish.

Winery: Dei
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2019

Brillant, ruby red with compacted rim. Pronounced flavour of cassis and violet. Spicy with overtones of leather. Full bodied with quite bright acidity. Well balanced with rich red fruit and elegant tannins. Harmonious finish. A charming wine with aging potential.

Winery: Il Mulinaccio
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “La Spinosa” Docg 2019

Clean with a deep ruby core. Lovely aromas of ripe plum with a touch of vanilla. Black cherry in the palate with a light toasty scent. Full body with round, sweet tannins. Fresh and harmonious finish. I liked it!

Winery:  Bindella
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2019

Ruby colour turning slightly purple. The nose expresses flavours of red fruit and rhubarb with a hint of mint. The palate is balanced with notes of ripe cherry and prune. Dry and fragrant, with soft tannins and long persistence. Full body with a nice end.  A great wine.

Winery: Tenuta della Talosa “Alboreto”
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2019

Brilliant, deep ruby core with violet hues. Intense flavour of black cherry and liquorice with overtones of lavender and new leather. Fragrant entrance with discrete alcohol and ripe fruit. Sweet, velvety tannins and quite long aftertaste. A harmonious, charming wine…

Winery:  Boscarelli
Wine:  Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2018 Riserva

Bright with paler reflections. Pronounced flavour of red cherry, wild blueberry, and balsamic notes and anise. Rich and well structured, good balance of body, fruit, acidity, and velvety tannins. An excellent wine.

Winery:  Le Berne
Wine:  Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2018 Riserva

Brilliant deep red. Attractive bouquet of strawberry and violet mixed with spicy notes of black pepper. Full body with lots of red fruit in the centre palate with smoky scents on the back. It expresses harmony with velvety tannins and long, fresh finish.  A lovely wine.

Winery: La Braccesca
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Docg 2018 Riserva, Vigneto Santa Pia

Medium ruby core, paler towards the edge. The wine displays intense flavour of wild berry with scents of new leather. Rich and powerful, good balance of body, fruit, acidity, and firm tannins. A lovely wine with great potential.

Winery: Contucci
Wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione “Mulinvecchio” 2017

Intense and brilliant garnet colour. Its bouquet is intense and ample with notes of blackcurrant and violet. The palate is rich and elegant. Full bodied with impressive freshness and velvety tannins. A long finish. A great wine.

About Montepulciano

The village of Montepulciano is situated on a gentle sloping hill of limestone composition that separates the Val di Chiana from the Val d’Orcia. It is in one of the most popular and explored wine destinations in Tuscany, a symbol of local culture. Montepulciano has been a wine production zone since ancient times and witness to the progress in the cultivation techniques from the Etruscans to the modern days. Among the pillars of the Olympus of wine production in Tuscany, Montepucliano represents an open-air museum of the wine culture of the region. It is an extremely interesting destination for wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs who arrive in this magnificent territory from all over the world.

The charming old town is enriched by Etruscans finds, large Renaissance structures, important churches decorated by illustrious artists, ancient theatres, and local artisan’s shops. It is a charming village full of wonderful peculiarities where you can emerge yourself in its beauty and history and explore with help of one of the best guides of the Tuscan territory: WINE!

Production zone

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vino Nobile Vintage Chart

 

 

 

 

 

 

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