The 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello: Italy’s premier wine preview showcases a vintage of elegance and restraint

Montalcino opened its historic cellars and welcomed the world once again for the 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello, held November 20–24 at the Chiostro di Sant’Agostino. As Italy’s longest-running wine preview event, this year’s gathering brought the international wine community together to taste the highly anticipated Brunello di Montalcino 2021, alongside Brunello Riserva 2020 and Rosso di Montalcino 2024. With 122 wineries presenting their wines and approximately 100 journalists and industry professionals in attendance, the event underscored Brunello’s enduring status as one of Italy’s most prestigious wine denominations. The international presence was particularly notable, with nearly half of the attending journalists coming from abroad, reflecting Brunello’s truly global appeal.

The event maintained its successful dual format pioneered in previous years. The first three days (November 20–22) were reserved for trade and media, featuring technical tastings. The final two days opened to Italian and international wine lovers, restaurant professionals, wine merchants, and sommeliers for walk-around sessions where they could meet producers directly.

Brunello’s continued market strength

Brunello di Montalcino has achieved what few wine denominations can claim: sustained growth in both prestige and commercial success over the past half-century. The denomination’s popularity continues to expand in world markets, driven by rising average prices, stable volumes, and growth in strategic regions. Recent data from Wine Intelligence confirms Brunello’s exceptional brand recognition in Italy, where it is known by two out of three consumers, surpassing in notoriety even neighbouring Tuscan appellations.

Rosso di Montalcino continues to show impressive growth. Following the expansion of vineyard area, bottlings in the first ten months reached nearly 4 million State Seals issued, marking a 29% year-on-year increase. This secondary appellation has become an important entry point for consumers discovering the territory while also serving as an earlier-drinking expression of Montalcino’s terroir. The Consorzio announced plans to launch a new promotional program for the denomination in 2026, involving collective participation in primary markets, particularly the United States, as well as additional strategic destinations. The aim is to diversify business opportunities for producers as much as possible, ensuring the denomination’s continued growth across multiple markets rather than relying too heavily on any single region.

Understanding the 2021 vintage

One of the highlights of the event was the presentation of the 2021 vintage characteristics through Brunello Forma, the Consorzio’s comprehensive technical analysis program. Now utilizing data from 60 weather stations (a 54% increase over 2020) and comparable to the 30-year historical average (1996–2025), the analysis provided detailed insights into what shaped this distinctive vintage. The 2021 growing season was defined by two main weather anomalies: a notably colder spring than historical norms, especially during March, April, and May, and a significantly warmer, drier September.

What made 2021 particularly unusual was the complete absence of rain between late August and early September, a pattern atypical for the Montalcino area. The vintage narrative began dramatically on April 8 with one of the most severe spring frosts of the past two decades. Following an early budbreak prompted by rapidly increasing temperatures from March 24 onward, the sudden plunge in minimum temperatures, exacerbated by a strong North Atlantic cold front, delayed the entire vegetative cycle and significantly reduced yields in some areas.

Summer brought a pronounced water deficit rather than thermal excess. Despite the persistent drought, maximum temperatures remained moderate, with only brief heatwaves observed. This restraint proved crucial to wine quality. The marked diurnal temperature variation, combined with the absence of prolonged heat stress, allowed the grapes to maintain freshness and aromatic complexity even under challenging conditions. Harvest commenced in the second half of September under clear skies and concluded rapidly in early October, with all fruit brought in before the first significant rainfall arrived after October 5. The resulting wines reflect a vintage shaped by discipline and precision: approachable yet structured, elegant yet concentrated, offering immediate appeal while promising graceful evolution over time.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese

The Brunello production area corresponds to the historical limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village just 40 km south of Siena, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is shaped like a square around the town, and it’s fascinating to observe the microclimate differences in such a compact territory.

This is a dry land encompassing a multitude of microclimates and soils. Generally speaking, grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located at higher elevations (but never over 600 meters) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes grow in an entirely different environment. The soils are richer, such as clay; the sunlight is more intense; sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea; and the resulting wines are more powerful. Furthermore, the presence of Mount Amiata (1,740 m) to the south has an important influence by shielding the grapes from strong atmospheric phenomena and providing breezes that help keep the climate dry and the vines healthy.

Tasting impressions of the 2021 vintage

After tasting most of the Brunello di Montalcino 2021 samples, the overall impression is of a vintage that shows approachable drinkability supported by good structure and finesse. The wines reflect the character of a season defined by moderate temperatures, marked diurnal variation, and water stress without extreme heat. The result is a Brunello that balances freshness with concentration, offering elegance and refinement that will continue to evolve beautifully over time.

The Sangiovese Grosso: the fingerprint of Brunello

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before reaching its quality peak, but once achieved, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. It is a very sensitive native grape and one of the highest-quality varieties, requiring careful practice and impeccable attention throughout its production process, harvest, and vinification.

It is a variety that shows fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice, and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of Sangiovese are the main factors behind its longevity. It performs differently in each site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir, combined with the play of time, has always produced elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to surprise. It is an example of impressive year-by-year quality persistence, and every vintage reveals a different profile of Sangiovese’s beauty, showcasing a new nuance of its character each time.

Montalcino: a year-round wine destination

Montalcino was historically an important stop on the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome, and therefore it welcomed and hosted influential figures, including nobles, politicians, and popes. The great wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors traveling to the Eternal City, which is why the hamlet has displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.

Montalcino today is internationally recognized as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting. It is connected to the history of its people and helps visitors understand why wine is so deeply integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who, from generation to generation, continue to pass on their passion and know-how.

While Benvenuto Brunello represents a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year. Many of the 122 participating wineries welcome visitors year-round, though reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours, including vertical tastings of multiple vintages, vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs, barrel tastings in historic cellars, and food-and-wine pairing experiences. Some estates offer helicopter tours of the denomination and harvest experiences during September and October.

The territory hosts several notable events beyond Benvenuto Brunello. The Brunello Crossing in February features competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes ranging from 10 to 44 kilometers. The Jazz & Wine Festival in July combines world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings. L’Eroica in October, the famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, includes a special route through the Brunello vineyards. Honey Week in September celebrates local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino.

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest, from hiking and biking trails to the iconic cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films. Historic abbeys, including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls—natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo, and the artistic treasures of Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia provide rich cultural experiences.

The town welcomes many visitors, and the care devoted to hospitality has become just as important as the attention given to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&Bs, luxurious accommodations within wine estates, and impeccable hotels offer diverse lodging options to suit different preferences and budgets.

Filippo Magnani

Adapting Terroir to a Changing Climate: An Overview of Chablis’ 2025 Vineyard Regulation Reforms

The 2025 regulatory revisions for the Chablis appellation represent a strategically calibrated response to accelerating climatic pressures. The adjustments—ranging from reduced vine density to higher authorized yields are intended to reinforce vineyard resilience without compromising the appellation’s stylistic integrity. These changes, outlined by The Drinks Business and corroborated through EUR-Lex, signal a regional shift toward adaptive viticultural governance.

The most consequential reform concerns vine density, which has been lowered from 8,000 to 5,500 vines per hectare. This reduction widens row spacing and improves accessibility for mechanization, particularly on slopes where labour constraints and erosion pressures intersect. Expanded spacing norms, averaging up to 1.20 metres, and reaching 1.60 metres on steeper gradients, provide growers with enhanced flexibility. In irregular blocks, spacing may now extend to 2 metres, acknowledging the topographic complexity of the Chablis landscape.

Revisions to yield thresholds similarly reflect an attempt to stabilize production under increasingly erratic weather. New maximum yields now reach 75 hl/ha for standard Chablis (previously 70 hl/ha) and 73 hl/ha for Premier Cru (up from 68 hl/ha). These adjustments offer producers a buffer against frost events, hail episodes, and challenging ripening conditions—phenomena that have become emblematic of recent vintages.

Changes to trellising requirements deepen the focus on canopy management. A minimum foliage height equal to 0.6 times the row spacing is now mandated, supported by structured trellising systems. This emphasizes balanced vegetative growth, improved light interception, and better control of disease pressure; central pillars of contemporary cool-climate viticulture.

These reforms operate alongside long-standing regulations that continue to define the Chablis identity. Chardonnay remains the sole authorized variety, while the hierarchical appellation system, Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru, maintains its established parameters. Minimum alcohol levels (9.5% for Chablis, 10.5% for Premier Cru, and 11% for Grand Cru) remain unchanged, preserving the sensory and structural benchmarks of the region. The geological foundation of Chablis, its Kimmeridgian limestone soils, continues to be recognized as the primary determinant of minerality. Traditional protective practices persist, now complemented by an increasing emphasis on sustainable farming.

Together, these updates depict a region actively reconciling heritage with necessity. Chablis is preserving its historical identity while embracing adaptive strategies capable of sustaining quality and viability in an era defined by climatic volatility. The 2025 framework stands as a model of regulatory evolution rooted in both tradition and foresight, an approach many wine regions are now compelled to consider as environmental uncertainty intensifies.

The Michelin Guide Expands Its Expertise in Recommendations and Introduces a New Distinction in the World of Wine

For 125 years, the MICHELIN Guide has celebrated places and talents that embody excellence in gastronomy and hospitality, with the MICHELIN Stars introduced in 1926 and the MICHELIN Keys launched in 2024. This expertise now naturally extends to wine, a key reference in the gastronomic experience. The MICHELIN Guide has long highlighted exceptional wine lists and sommeliers, notably through the ‘wine’ pictogram created in 2004 to distinguish outstanding food and wine pairings. In 2019, the MICHELIN Sommelier Award was introduced to honour professionals whose expertise enhances the guest experience through exemplary mastery of wine selection and service.

The MICHELIN Grape, MICHELIN Guide’s new distinction, will now spotlight wine estates across different regions of the world. It will assess their overall excellence based on five universal criteria applied consistently.

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director for the MICHELIN Guide, explains:

” After having oriented wine-lovers towards the finest tables in more than 70 destinations and to the world’s most elegant hotels, the MICHELIN Guide is delighted to open a new chapter with the world of wine. This new reference is designed for both the curious amateur and the most ardent expert – it rewards the men and women who are building the most demanding vineyards around the world.” 

The MICHELIN Grapes: a new reference for discovering and showcasing wine-growing talent

In the world of wine, the MICHELIN Guide rewards not only the vineyards but also the men and women who personify them. With this new distinction, the Guide will be using a strict and independent methodology – it will also provide wine-lovers with a trusted benchmark: Grapes 1, 2 or 3 and, additionally, a selection of recommended vineyards.

  Three Grapes

Exceptional producers. Whatever the vintage, wine lovers can turn to the estate’s creations with complete confidence.

  Two Grapes

Excellent producers who stand out as exceptional within their peer group and region for both quality and consistency.

One Grape

Very good producers who craft wines of character and style, especially in the best vintages.

Selected 

Dependable producers who have been chosen for regular review, producing well-made wines that deliver a quality experience.

Here is the methodology based on 5 criteria: 

For its new distinction, true to its fundamental values of excellence and independence, the MICHELIN Guide applies five criteria uniformly and wherever it may be.

  1. The quality of agronomy
    The assessment evaluates the vitality of the soil, the balance of the vine stocks, as well as the care provided for the vines. All essential factors that directly influence wine quality.
  2. Technical mastery
    The evaluation focuses on the technical skills in the wine-making process. Our inspectors are seeking precise and rigorous wine-making processes producing well-developed wines which reflect the terroir and the vine types, without any distracting flaws.
  3. Identity
    The Guide will highlight winemakers who craft wines that express the personality, the sense of place, and the culture behind them.
  4. Balance
    Evaluation of the harmony between acidity, tannins, oak, alcohol, and sweetness.
  5. Consistency 
    Wines will be evaluated across multiple vintages to ensure unwavering consistency in quality, even in the most challenging years. The Guide celebrates wines that reveal greater depth and excellence as time goes by.

    Expertise at the heart of the assessments 

Future selections will rely on the expertise of dedicated wine inspectors, all professionals employed by the Michelin Group. This team, which makes its recommendations collectively and with complete independence, will bring together seasoned wine specialists and newly recruited inspectors.

All team members have been selected not only based on their qualifications, but also on their ability to assess a vineyard with rigour and integrity. They are all seasoned professionals in the sector, i.e., former sommeliers, specialized critics or production experts, all bringing concrete and in-depth experience of the wine-producing world to the team.

Their assessments follow a rigorous methodology, including a panel review process and editorial supervision.

In 2026, the MICHELIN Grapes adventure will be writing its initial chapter in the heart of two mythical French wine-producing areas: Burgundy and the Bordeaux region

The MICHELIN Grapes project will start with two regions among the most emblematic in the worldwide wine-producing landscape: Burgundy and the region around Bordeaux. A compelling choice, celebrating the diversity, the historical intensity and the cultural richness of wine à la française.

Over the centuries, Bordeaux has established itself as a historic force in the world of wine. Its distinguished vineyards and their reputation go far beyond our borders.  The entire prestigious Bordeaux region is renowned throughout the world for its innovations and its traditions.

Burgundy, for its part, differentiates itself by its approach, deeply rooted in the local heritage. Its human-sized, family-owned vineyards reflect rigorous traditions and care imposed at each stage in the production process. From generation to generation, legacies have curated the local identity and forged the worldwide reputation of Burgundy.

Stay tuned in 2026 for the very first selections of the MICHELIN Grapes.

Georgia’s Wine Tourism Boom: $4.6 Billion Forecast Fuels Record Growth and Global Recognition

Nestled among Kakheti’s vineyards and Tbilisi’s age-old streets, Georgia is crafting a narrative perhaps even richer than its famous qvevri wines. Galt & Taggart, the investment firm, now projects that tourism revenue could hit $4.6 billion by 2025, a slight increase from its prior estimate of $4.5 billion. This celebrates a sector that’s not just recovering but really shaping the country’s future economy.

With impressive data from the year’s first nine months, this boost confirms tourism’s role as a powerful engine, attracting foreign investment, creating jobs, and fostering growth that has Georgia doing better than many other countries.

The update, found in Galt & Taggart’s most recent Weekly Investment Review, isn’t just a shot in the dark. It’s based on concrete progress: the National Bank of Georgia shows $3.6 billion in tourism money came in from January to September, marking a 5.1 percent rise year-over-year. The third quarter by itself brought in a dazzling $1.7 billion, up 6.6 percent compared to 2024, suggesting that tourists are choosing Georgia for summer and fall travel. “Based on the actual figures from the initial three quarters of 2025, we expect that tourism income will total $4.6 billion,” the report states, showing how strong demand is, despite some global uncertainty.

Georgia’s Tourism Is a Pillar of Prosperity

Tourism isn’t a minor part of Georgia’s economy; it’s central, supporting foreign currency reserves and providing job opportunities. Since the pandemic, the industry has thrived, with first-half 2025 earnings reaching a record $2 billion, a 3.8 percent increase from 2024, or even more impressive, a 35.4 percent jump over pre-COVID levels in 2019. There are many more direct flights from Europe now, serving both airlines and travellers, and smart marketing showcases Georgia’s mix of Soviet history, Silk Road influences, and Black Sea beaches.

This growth goes hand in hand with wider economic improvements. Georgia’s GDP grew substantially by 9.4 percent in 2024, making it one of the fastest-growing economies. Since 2000, per capita GDP has increased by 370 percent, with predictions from Batumi Projects suggesting it could climb by 500 percent by 2030. Galt & Taggart’s analysts foresee more variety in the future, with specialized tourism like eco-tours and cultural experiences, helping the sector to remain strong into 2026 and beyond. In a region with ongoing conflicts, Georgia’s focus on hospitality is paying off, bringing in reliable income that provides stability and highlights the country’s “peaceful future” goals.

Kakheti’s Wine Tourism Ferments a Luxury Legacy

Central to this success is Kakheti, the heart of Georgia in the southeast, and the main area for wine production, creating 75 percent of the nation’s wines. Formerly less known among wine enthusiasts, the area is now attracting high-end visitors seeking a unique and historical “wine experience.”

Wine tourism here is not just about basic tastings; it’s about exploring 8,000 years of history, from wines fermented in clay to exclusive wine cellars also acting as art galleries.

The progress is clear. Between 2020 and 2022, several new wine-focused hotels opened in Telavi, the main town in Kakheti, combining local charm with luxury services. There are about 20 high-quality properties planned nationwide for 2025-2028, turning quiet villages into attractive destinations. This development mirrors the increase in exports; in 2024, 95 million litres were exported, earning $276.1 million, with a 6 percent rise in volume and a 7 percent increase in income. New markets like the UAE (+80 percent), Turkey (+62 percent), and the UK (+42 percent) are embracing Georgian wines, even though Russia still consumes nearly two-thirds of the exports.

Wine production, Georgia’s second-biggest export sector (after mining), is closely linked to tourism, much like vines on a supporting frame. Visitors don’t just sample the wine; they become part of it, like going on vineyard walks. Perhaps by engaging in traditional winemaking classes or sharing stories of hardship amidst authentic culinary experiences. “Georgians have a strong sense of confidence regarding their viniculture,” is a common sentiment, and this devotion is seemingly proving successful, drawing an affluent demographic which may soon compete with the prestigious wineries of Bordeaux.

Source:  Wine Tourism Review

The Return of Pink Chardonnay: A Lost Heir Rejoins Champagne’s Noble Lineage

Pink Chardonnay, officially recognized in the Champagne appellation since July 31, 2025, marks a historic return of a nearly forgotten grape variety to its rightful place in the region’s viticultural legacy. A natural mutation of white Chardonnay, this rediscovered gem becomes the eighth authorized grape variety in Champagne, joining the traditional seven and reflecting both heritage preservation and forward-thinking adaptation to climate change.

A Return to Heritage

First identified in the early 1900s in both Champagne and Burgundy, Pink Chardonnay [also known as Chardonnay rose] had long lingered in obscurity. Sustained only by the dedication of a few visionary growers, it was largely confined to experimental collections or isolated vineyard rows. Its inclusion in the French National Catalogue in 2018 conferred official recognition, enabling its propagation and preservation as part of France’s viticultural biodiversity.

Official Recognition and Symbolic Significance

The decision to include Pink Chardonnay in the Champagne appellation’s official specifications symbolizes a renewed commitment to genetic diversity and historical authenticity. Pink Chardonnay is a spontaneous natural mutation, proof that innovation in viticulture can arise organically from nature itself. This recognition not only restores a piece of Champagne’s past but also reflects the region’s intelligence in adapting to new environmental realities.

Viticultural and Oenological Qualities

In both the vineyard and the cellar, Pink Chardonnay closely mirrors its white counterpart. Its agronomic behaviour and oenological performance demonstrate similar freshness, balance, and finesse, qualities that have long defined the elegance of Champagne wines. Yet, beyond its technical attributes, the grape’s deeper value lies in its narrative: a story of rediscovery, resilience, and the enduring dialogue between tradition and innovation.

Diversity Within Continuity

While Pinot Noir, Meunier, and white Chardonnay continue to dominate Champagne’s 34,000 hectares of vines, minority varieties, including Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and now Pink Chardonnay, account for only 0.5% of total plantings. Their preservation reinforces Champagne’s identity as a living, evolving ecosystem, one that values both its cultural roots and its scientific capacity for renewal.

Learn more at www.champagne.fr