Trailblazing Winemaker Susana Balbo: An Exclusive Interview with Liz Palmer + Tasting Notes

Susana Balbo, a trailblazer in the wine industry, renowned for her pioneering contributions as Argentina’s first female winemaker and the visionary owner of Susana Balbo Wines. Her academic journey began with a transition from nuclear physics to enology, culminating in her graduation with honors from Don Bosco University in Mendoza in 1981. Navigating the challenges posed by a traditionally male-dominated profession, she revolutionized the Argentine wine sector and gained recognition for her innovative approach to viticulture. Her expertise in cultivating and refining Torrontés—a signature white grape variety of Argentina—earned her the title of “Queen of Torrontés.” Today, Susana Balbo’s winery stands as a testament to her resilience, creativity, and commitment to elevating Argentine wines on the global stage.

Expanding on her extraordinary journey and accomplishments, Susana Balbo opens up with me in this thoughtful and engaging interview, offering invaluable insights into her experiences, challenges, and aspirations for the future.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Susana Balbo: In my early days in Cafayate, I did not know any. There was no internet; I lived in a completely isolated town. We did not have a telephone, let alone any means of communication to connect with other women in the world. I did not travel the world either. Therefore, my inspiration has fundamentally been an obsession with quality. One of my teachers was Father Francisco Oreglia, who was the founder of the Technological School of Oenology and Fruit and Vegetable Industries in Mendoza. He was a perfectionist, and always inspired me to do things exceptionally well, constantly improving and getting better. However, at that time, I did not know any women from the wine world. Once the internet became available and information was easier to access, I already had over fifteen years of experience in my profession and was traveling around the world as a wine consultant. Honestly, I consider myself a self-made woman.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Susana Balbo: When I arrived in Cafayate, Salta, in 1981, Torrontés made up 75% of the grapes planted in the winery where I worked. Therefore, either I had to learn how to make good Torrontés wines or my job would not last long. Putting that aside, which is more anecdotal today, what I do differently is to work in a very respectful way with the variety, leaving aside some aromas in order to achieve complexity and elegance. What I see in Torrontés is an incredible versatility that allows you to create all kinds of things: you can make alcohol-free juices, low-alcohol wines with interesting aromas, natural sweet wines for young people who enjoy sweet, chilled wines, more serious wines fermented in oak barrels, and you can even use it for blends. It is a variety of extraordinay versatility, and it expresses a very distinct personality depending on the soil and terroir where it is grown. Its possibilities are endless.

A more recent achievement for which I feel deeply grateful is being recognized by Decanter with the prestigious Decanter Hall of Fame 2024 award. I share this accomplishment with my team, who have supported me throughout the years, and especially with my two children, who have been by my side for the past 12 years.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Susana Balbo: We have recently implemented several technological innovations in our winemaking process. One of them is the use of a press that employs inert gases, allowing us to better preserve the quality of the must during pressing by minimizing oxidation.

Additionally, we are using clayvers and amphorae in various shapes (spherical, oval, horizontal, and vertical) to determine which provides the best results in both the fermentation and aging of white wines.

We have also incorporated the use of special barrels, known as “Perle,” which work under pressure and enable carbonic maceration and fermentation with minimal intervention. This results in red wines with remarkable aromatic purity and excellent structure.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Susana Balbo: We believe that sustainability means performing actions with commitment. That is why we have worked as a team on defining our purpose: we nurture a culture of shared growth in all our relationships, aiming to boost the development of people and resources. We always work on creating value in terms of sustainability’s three dimensions: the people, the environment and the business.

As regards the environment, we focus on its preservation in every step of the winemaking process: from the vineyard to the bottle. Regarding the vineyards, we take care of them with the highest global standards of quality and sustainability. Significantly, our vineyard in Agrelo (where the winery is located) is certified organic, showcasing our dedication to environmentally friendly practices. Our daily hard work, for instance, is reflected on the Sustainability Certificate issued by Bodegas de Argentina. In addition, last year we renewed our BRC Global Standard for Food Safety certification, an achievement that reveals our commitment to quality and the environment. Some of the winery’s eco-friendly practices I can mention are:  managing the use of energy in our daily activities, disposing of waste in a responsible manner and recycling important materials such as cork, wood, cardboard and nylon, using kraft boxes and bottles that are lighter than the traditional ones, implementing a drip irrigation system for vineyards and reusing sewer water coming from the common-use areas, among others.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Susana Balbo: As a winery that constantly pursues innovation, we believe it is important to offer products that meet the needs of these consumers. In 2022, we launched our sub-line CRIOS SUSTENTIA, focused on responsible consumption and ecological awareness. Under this premise, we offer a Chardonnay—being exclusively for the international market—with an alcohol content of 8 to 9 degrees, considered as a “light wine.” It is low in alcohol by Argentine standards, where due to our climate, it is easy for both whites and rosés—and even more so for red wines—to reach levels above 13 degrees.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: We stay up to date with the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry through continuous learning about new developments. This includes reading scientific journals, attending technological conferences, and participating in technical talks. Additionally, we keep close contact with industry colleagues, which enriches our knowledge and allows us to exchange experiences.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Susana Balbo: To be able to lead and make changes in the industry we sometimes have to leave our comfort zone.

Another piece of advice is to focus on making quality wines, each of them reflecting the doer’s personality. Likewise, the story behind a wine must be consistent with that wine and with what the consumer tastes. A wine is recommended to others when the consumer and the clients quickly perceive consistency. Therefore, to enter into the world of wine, one must be convinced that there is a rocky road ahead but it is not an impossible road to take. This path should be clearly consistent with one’s goals.

Wine Tasting Notes
Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022
and
Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024

This Torrontés is the first of its kind, produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet.

A luminous pale golden hue. On the nose, it offers a captivating bouquet of orange blossom and white peach, complemented by subtle undertones of nutmeg and vanilla derived from its four months of fermentation in French oak barrels. On the palate, the wine delivers a lively and harmonious profile, with vibrant floral and citrus notes balanced by a creamy texture with some hints of toast from the oak. Its crisp acidity provides excellent structure, leading to a refined and lingering finish. This innovative expression of Torrontés highlights the influence of high-altitude vineyards in Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2022

“Making great wines requires courage, determination and passion. With over forty years of experience since my start as the first female winemaker in Argentina I am proud to off the best of myself through my signature wines.  This Malbec is one of the most cherished wines from my winery.  Produced with grapes from Paraje Altamira, Valley de Uco in Mendoza at 3,770 feet” Susana Balbo

This Malbec exemplifies elegance and depth, showcasing the unique character of high-altitude Mendoza vineyards. In the glass, it reveals a deep ruby color with violet undertones. The nose is expressive and layered, offering aromas of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, intertwined with hints of violet, mocha, and a touch of sweet spice.

On the palate, this Susana Balbo Signature Malbec is full-bodied yet impeccably balanced, with silky tannins and a vibrant acidity that provides structure and freshness. The fruit flavors are complemented by subtle notes of dark chocolate and toasted oak, a result of careful aging in French oak barrels. The finish is long and refined, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and complexity.
92 Points
Liz Palmer

 Susana Balbo Website:  https://en.susanabalbowines.com.ar/

15th International Terroir Congress: Bridging Local Wine Industry with Global Terroir Science [Mendoza, Argentina, November 18-22, 2024]

For the first time since its inception in 1996, the congress will grace the soils of South America, choosing the Andean landscapes of Mendoza, Argentina.

The three-day event is co-hosted by the Facultad de Ciencias Agrarias University of Cuyo, IBAM (Instituto de Biologi´a Agricola de Mendoza) and the Catena Institute of Wine.

Scientific Sessions include:

A | Soil

Innovation in terroir studies
Physical, chemical, and microbiological properties of soils
Soil health indicators
Adaptation to soil through viticultural practices
Performance of rootstocks in different soils

B | Climate

Projections and scenarios of climate change
Climate change impacts
Climate-related challenges and opportunities for viticulture
New technologies to assess climatic parameters
Index and climate characterization

C | Plant material and management

Selection of plant material and management practices in response to climate change projections
Epigenetic mechanisms in grapevine acclimation
Impact of soil and climate change on vines, wine quality and typicity
Adaptation to climate through viticultural practices
Grapevines phenotypic plasticity in response to changing environments

D | Malbec

Historical journey and terroir expression
Studies of Malbec cultivation and winemaking in Argentina and worldwide.
Properties of Malbec wines cultivated in different regions.

Insights from attending experts:

Dr. Laura Catena – Local wine producer, Catena Institute of Wine
“We are excited to greet sommeliers, wine lovers and wine trade who are interested in the subtleties of wine terroir. The study, preservation and celebration of terroir depend on the interest that wine lovers and consumers develop for this most important topic. The combination of an extraordinary natural setting, exciting presentations, and local food (bountiful asado-barbecue) and wine hospitality should make attending this year’s Terroir Congress in Mendoza the experience of a lifetime.”

Dr. Luciano Calderon – Argentinian geneticist and leading author of Malbec’s genome sequencing project
“As a geneticist, I consider that terroir is a combination of multiple variables, which all together constitute the scenario able to bring up the best or the worst of any combination of genes. Each cultivar, each clone and each plant is a unique combination of genes that expresses flavor in different ways, depending on its growing context, the terroir.”

Dr. Rodrigo Lo´pez Plantey – Professor and local symposium organizer at FCA UNCuyo, Argentina
“It’s a unique opportunity for Argentina’s wine industry to connect and collaborate with the international scientific community, together advancing our sector’s future.”

Dr. Kees Van Leeuwen – Bordeaux’s leading terroir academic
“The concept of terroir relates wine to its origin, the place where it is produced. Multiple terroir factors, including soil and climate, craft the taste of wine. Many researchers around the world work on explaining the mechanisms involved. These researchers gather once every two years since 1996 at the International Terroir Congress. The congress will take place for the first time in South America, in Mendoza, Argentina, from 18-22 November 2024. It is a unique occasion for an update on the most exciting terroir research and an opportunity to meet researchers from the terroir community in person.”

For further details and registration please visit https://congressterroir.com.ar

Source: www.congressterroir.com

Geographic Indication Approved for San Pablo, A High-Altitude Mendoza Sub-Region

San Pablo, a sub-region of Mendoza, Argentina has been awarded Geographic Indication status after a four-year campaign led by local producers. San Pablo is located in Uco Valley, and is the northernmost sub-region in Tunuyán, Uco Valley.

It is also one of Mendoza’s extreme regions in terms of altitudes, with vineyards planted between 3,600 ft (1,100m) and 5,600 ft (1,700m) above sea level, with an arid climate and an average of 500mm rainfall per year.

San Pablo is located on the alluvial fan of the Las Tunas River, on the right bank, where the soil has a high pebble content as well as other calcareous materials.

The GI spans the following areas:

East boundary: Provincial Route N°89

North boundary: Las Tunas River

West boundary: dimension lines at 1.700 meters above sea level

South boundary: Villegas Creek up to its intersection with Cuevas Creek

The Salentein winery was the first winery to produce Estate Bottled wines from what today is the GI San Pablo and one of the first in the Uco Valley.

Salentin launched the campaign in collaboration with Bodegas Tapíz, and Familia Zuccardi wineries, together with the Facultad de Agronomía de la Universidad Nacional de Cuyo (Agronomy School of the National University of Cuyo) and the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (National Institute of Viticulture), in 2016.