Category: Italian Wine

Oslavia: Forefront of the Amber Wine Revolution – Filippo Magnani

Oslavia is located in a tiny corner of northeastern Italy.  This small war-torn region has given rise to a truly special place for producing unique wines. Home to 150 inhabitants, the village of Oslavia is just a short walk from the Slovenian border. From the village, you can see the surrounding vineyards and a giant war memorial in memory of the many battles fought here during WWI. In fact, its strategic location would force the area to be divided between the two countries for more than 70 years. It wasn’t until the fall of the Iron Curtain that these two cultures began to heal and grow. Now, most of the road signs are written in both Italian and Slovenian. The local traditions and the food and wine are also a testimony to their unique blend of cultures. It is perhaps no surprise that this land has also attracted some of the most revolutionary and strong-minded winemakers who show a profound respect for this land.

Climate and Soil Give Rise to Unique Wines

Hidden in the eastern foothills of the Collio wine region, Oslavia’s location was not only strategic in battles, but it is also ideally located between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The Alps protect it from the cold winds from the north while the Adriatic helps to moderate temperatures. The Oslavia hills are around 150 -190 meters and represent a very heterogeneous environment as far as temperatures, exposure and orientation of the slopes are concerned. This special place also benefits from two other key ingredients: the “Bora” winds and the “Ponca” soil. The Bora is a north-easterly wind that sweeps down through the Isonzo River Valley providing proper ventilation for the grapes and a healthy range in temperatures between day and night. This diurnal shift ensures the grapes do not ripen too quickly, allowing their flavor compounds to develop fully. The Ponca is a type of soil in the Collio region typically known to produce elegant wines. Formed 45 million years ago under the sea it is a blend of marl and sandstone that is low in fertility but rich in mineral content due to its marine origins. Concentrations of Ponca can vary drastically from one vineyard location to the next, offering an incredible array of wines depending also on the type of vine planted in it. These variations in soil are one of the reasons why Oslavia is defined as a distinct wine area.

Ribolla Gialla: The Signature Grape of Oslavia

The Ribolla Gialla grape has become synonymous with Oslavia wines precisely because it thrives in this terroir.  Known as “Rebula” just across the border in Slovenia, Ribolla Gialla is an ancient variety with thick skins and long but compact grape clusters. It needs good ventilation from the Bora winds and prefers lower fertility soils like Ponca which helps concentrate the flavours but also provides a distinct minerality. Because of the unique combination of soil and climate producers here believe that Ribolla Gialla expresses its best qualities in Oslavia which is why it has become the signature grape of the region. With its high acidity, it will produce light, floral and crisp wines if made with little or no skin contact. However, if fermented and macerated with the skins for longer periods such as in Oslavia, the wine takes on more structure, soft tannin, and flavors from Ribolla’s thick skins. This produces a completely different style of wine that can have deeper colors from golden yellow to amber. These white wines made with extended skin contact are broadly referred to as “orange” wines, a term that can be confusing to some. This is why many proponents prefer to call these “skin-contact wines”. There are other native and international grapes grown in the region as well. For native whites you will find Tocai and Malvasia whereas the native reds showcased by producers are mainly Refosco, Tazzelenche, Schiopettino and Ribolla Rosso. Some producers also use international grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

A Secret Spot for an Authentic Wine Vacation

Just a short drive from Venice and Trieste airports, Oslavia is a great place to start your exploration of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine region. Follow the Soca River as it winds its way up from the Adriatic to the town of Gorizia nestled against the foothills of the Julian Alps. Its 11th-century castle and alluring palaces earned the town a reputation as the “Austrian Nice”. The vibrant market, restaurants, and cafes have plenty to offer those in search of local specialties. Take some time to explore the beautifully preserved castle and the Coronini Cronberg Palace where King Charles X, the last king of France, stayed and then died.

It’s then only a 10-minute drive into the heart of the wine country, where it’s easy to visit small, family-run wineries and their vineyards. Many offer agritourism experiences with B&B accommodation and/or home-cooked meals. Most welcome visits if arranged in advance.

The producer’s association APRO has created a self-guided walking tour called the “Orange Bench Trail” which connects all 7 winery members. The trail is marked by orange circles and one orange bench per winery. This orange bench trial is an open invitation, as open as the acronym for the producer’s association itself APRO, which literally translated means “I open”. Not only do the producers open their doors and bottles of wine to visitors, but they also open their minds and their hearts. There is a respect for the past and a vision for the future. The trail is an open invitation to reflect not only on these but also on the landscape.

For those wanting to learn more about Oslavia’s strategic role in World War I, you can visit the impressive Sacrario di Oslavia. Built like an imposing fortress, this ossuary is a memorial to the over 50,000 Italian soldiers who fell during the battles of Isonzo. It stands on a 150-meter hill and was inaugurated by Benito Mussolini in 1938.

Traditionally in October wine travelers and enthusiasts from all over the world come together to participate in RibolliAMO; a play on words in Italian essentially meaning “We love Ribolla”. This event went from being an exclusive gathering for just a handful of journalists to an international destination open to all. It was designed to be a multifaceted event with Oslavia at its center. An Orange Symposium was held with many speakers bringing together wine experts, published authors and journalists as well as a cinema director. Its rich program included a screening of the documentary “Call it Amber” and a guided tour of the Orange Benches by a naturalist and history expert.

United Friends with Different Visions

Oslavia and its producers are credited for bringing fine wine produced with Ribolla Gialla to prominence. Not only did they recognize the land as an ideal terroir for this grape, but they were inspired by their ancestors’ winemaking techniques.

In the late 1990s two pioneers, Joško Gravner and Stanko Radikon started to experiment with techniques such as fermentation on the skins for longer periods using only native yeasts, no use of sulfites during the winemaking process and aging in large amphoras. Several other producers started experimenting in the same area, each with their own strong personalities and their own styles and determination. However, they all agree on a couple of key elements: The Oslavia terroir is the finest expression of Ribolla Gialla answering diligently to each producer’s way of thinking. So, they let nature do what it does best with as little intervention as possible in the winemaking process.

Today there are 7 producers in Oslavia that make up the Ribolla of Oslavia Producers’ Association (APRO). The association was founded in 2010 founded from a desire to protect the territory, its land, and its people. Their symbol is the “orange grape” and their goal is to continually invest in the people and land they live in.

Fiegl

Fiegl’s mission is to tell a story about the Oslavia territory using wine as the means of expression and to continuously invest in the cultivation of their vines to improve their quality. Founded by three brothers Alessio, Giuseppe and Rinaldo, the winery represents two generations of Fiegl’s. The new generation of sons, Martin, Robert e Matej, have completed their oenology studies and bring new passion, enthusiasm, and innovation to the family business. Their approach to viticulture is to create the least environmental impact possible with respect for the vine’s natural abilities. Vineyards are maintained with eco-friendly products, complete grass cover between rows and manual harvesting techniques.

Foundation year: 1782

Ownership: Famiglia Fiegl

Total annual production in bottles: 220,000

Hectares of vineyard: 40

Key varieties: Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, Merlot

Address: Località Lenzuolo Bianco 1, Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone: +39 0481 547103

Web site: www.fieglvini.com

Email: visite@fieglvini.com info@fieglvini.com

Gravner

Joško Gravner is a third-generation winemaker, Slovene by heritage. The family first started bottling wine in 1973. Shortly afterward, Joško, then in his early twenties, took over. In 2014 he was joined by his daughter Mateja. In the 1990’s Gravner pioneered a return to ancient winemaking in large amphoras buried underground. All their seeding, pruning and harvest are done biodynamically according to the moon phases.

Foundation year: 1905

Ownership: Gravner Francesco

Total annual production in bottles: 18,000- 35,000

Hectares of vineyard: 18 (15 productive; 2,8 planted in 2021)

Key varieties: Ribolla Gialla (90% surface) Pignolo (7% surface)

Address: Az. Agr. Gravner , Loc. Lenzuolo bianco 9 – Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone: +39 0481 30882

Web site: gravner.it

Email: info@gravner.it

Il Carpino

Founded in 1987 by Franco Sosol who transformed his father-in-law Silvio’s small bulk wine operation into today’s estate. Originally an automobile repairman Franco picked up winemaking in his spare time from watching Silvio. Now he is joined by his wife Anna and children Naike and Manuel. Over the years they have grown their estate to include 40 acres of vineyards. They produce only white wines.

Foundation year: 1987

Ownership: Family Sosol

Total annual production in bottles: 40,000 – 50,000

Hectares of vineyard: 18

Key varieties: Ribolla gialla, Malvasia, Pinot grigio (vis Uvae), Friulano (exordium), Sauvignon e Chardonnay

Address: Il Carpino, loc Sovenza 14/a, – Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone: +39 340 8320020

Web site: www.ilcarpino.com

Email: ilcarpino@ilcarpino.com 

La Castellanda

Named after a hill in Oslavia, La Castellanda was founded in 1985 by Giorgio e Nicolò Bensa who decided to develop their father Giuseppe’s bulk wine production and dedicate themselves fully to winemaking. Since 2009 Nicolò’s sons Matteo and Stefano have joined the team. They practice complete vineyard grassing to promote biodiversity.

Foundation year: 1985

Ownership: Bensa Giorgio e Nicolò

Total annual production in bottles: 20,000–25,000

Hectares of vineyard: 9

Key varieties: Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Pinot Grigio

Address: Località Oslavia, 1 – Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone : 0481-33670

web site : lacastellada.it

email : info@lacastellada.it


Dario Princic

Dario started his winery in 1993. Before that, he sold his grapes to local wineries. Since 1988 he hasn’t used any chemicals in his vineyards, he started to only use natural fertilizers (cow and horse manure) and copper and sulfur for the spray treatments. In 1999 he started to experiment the maceration of grapes in part of the production, the year after he decided to do it in the whole production. Now the winery is over 10 hectares, all his vineyards are southeast exposure.

Foundation year:   1993

Ownership: Princic Dario

Total annual production in bottles:  35,000-40,000

Hectares of vineyard: 12 ha

Key varieties: Chardonnay-Sauvignon-Pinot Bianco-Pinot Grigio- Ribolla Gialla-

Tocai -Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon

Address Via Ossario 15/A – Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone +39 0481532730

email dario.princic@gmail.com 

Primosic

The Primisic family winemaking dates back to Carlo Primosic, who, at the end of the 19th century, supplied wine merchants from the southern Austro-Hungarian Empire. In the 1950’s they began their own private sales and in 1964 Carlos’s son Silvan was the first to bottle their wine which gained Italian and international recognition after only a few years. The Collio Consortium was founded in 1967, of which Silvan was one of the first members. It is not by coincidence the “Number One” bottle from the Consortium is from the Primosic cellars. Today his two children Marko and Boris run the winery, maintaining the focus on the native and traditional varieties of the area, and striving for a style that favors clear, precise fruit aromas, intense flavors and overall balance.

Foundation year: 1956

Ownership: Famiglia Primosic

Total annual production in bottles: 210,000

Hectares of vineyard: 32

Key varieties: Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Pinot Grigio

Contact: Marko Primosic

Address: Località Madonnina di Oslavia, 3 – Oslavia 34170 Gorizia

Phone: +39 0481 535153

web site: www.primosic.com

email: info@primosic.com

Radikon

In 1980 Stanko Radikon bottled his first vintage from vines planted by his grandfather. In 1995 he was one of the first winemakers in the region to start macerating his Ribolla on the skins just like his grandfather did. Through experimentation maceration times increased as did and the types of wines macerated on the skins. Today all their wines are macerated for 3 months with the least human intervention possible and with the maximum respect for the soils and nature. After Stanko’s passing in 2016, the winery is run now by his wife Suzana and their children Saša and Ivana.

Foundation year: 1980

Ownership: Radikon’s family

Total annual production in bottle: about 70,000

Hectares of vineyard: about 20

Key varieties: Ribolla; Tocai Friulano, Merlot, Pignolo

Contact: Luisa

Name of the winery: Radikon

Address: Località Tre Buchi 4 – 34170 Gorizia – Italy

Phone: +39048132804

Web site: www.radikon.it

Email: info@radikon.it

#RibollaGialla #Oslavia #wine #amberwine #winetasting #winelover #naturalwine #winemaker #vinrouge #somm #sommelier #winelovers #italy #winemaking #orangewine #biodinamicwine #vininaturali #tasting #finewine 🍷 #winefair #Colliowineregion #AmberWine #winetourism #tourism #winetime #winetours #winedestinations #italianwinelovers #OrangeBenchTrail #Ribolla #RibolliAMO #orangewinefestival

Italy’s sparkling wine sector ends 2022 in record volumes

2 billion euros in export value alone illustrate the spumante boom. Markets like Eastern Europe and France are also growing strongly.

According to recent estimates by Unione Italiana Vini (UIV) and the service institute Ismea, Italy’s sparkling wine sector ends 2022 with a production record of 970 mill. bottles. The total business value is 2.85 billion euros, of which the export market alone generates 2 billion euros. The growth of 6% is mainly due to exports (+8%), but the internal market will also close positively (+1%).

In particular, demand in the main markets, the USA, the UK and Germany, is accelerating growth.  However, good results are also achieved in other established places such as Canada, Sweden and Japan, and sales are also increasing in younger markets such as Eastern Europe and France (+25% volume).

The three Prosecco origins DOC, DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene and DOCG Asolo not only account 70% of  production, they are also the best-selling product in the food sector worldwide. According to the report, their business value is over 1.6 billion euros. Asti DOCG, Trentodoc and Franciacorta were also able to increase sales.

Italy’s sparkling wine production consists of 83% DOP qualities, 6% fall to IGT wines, the rest to sparkling wines without specific indications of origin.

#Prosecco #Conegliano #Valdobbiadene #Asolo #Asti #Trentodoc #Franciacorta #Italysparklingwine #winetrade #winenews #italianwine #italianwinelovers #sparklingwine #wineexports #winelovers #italianwine #winetrade #wine #italianwine #winetrends

Orcia DOC – A fascinating wine territory in the heart of Tuscany – Filippo Magnani

“The most beautiful wine in the world” is the appropriate tagline chosen by the Val d’Orcia region to promote its wines. My recent visit showed me that their quality is steadily increasing, surprisingly even in terms of how they define their territorial identity.

It is hard to find a nicer place to visit than the ‘beautiful’ Val d’Orcia, during any season of the year. Even on rainy days, a subtle fog hints romantically at the graceful profile of the rolling hills, sketched by lines of vines or olive trees, each one crowned with its own row of cypresses.

There are multiple treats for everyone: active holiday lovers can choose between the paths once walked by pilgrims on their journey to Rome (the so named “Via Francigena”, which is the Italian version of the Camino de Santiago). There are plenty of friendly hotels, all of them located in charming surroundings. Some of them welcome their guests directly in tiny, middle-aged villages that are cozy, and relaxed.

The mighty profile of Mount Amiata (an extinct volcano) provides opportunities from a hike or a bicycle ride to an alpine landscape, through silent forests of narrow trees, where it is not uncommon to meet deer, wild boar and foxes. In the winter it is possible to ski and take in the stunning views, on a clear day, from the easily reachable peak.

What better way to relax after an active day than in the historic hot springs of Bagno Vignoni or Bagni San Filippo with their freely accessible pools or luxury hotels equipped with all the comforts of a well-organized spa. Alternatively, you can choose to visit the surrounding towns, literally filled with Renaissance treasures: like San Quirico d’Orcia, or the “ideal city” of Pienza, redesigned by the humanist Pope Pius II who was born there. Cinema enthusiasts will also find locations where blockbuster movies like “The Gladiator” or “The English Patient” were filmed. For photography lovers, there are plenty of spots where they can create personal postcards, easily recognizable by the line of cars always parked along the country roads! Not to mention the renowned villages of Montepulciano and Montalcino that are also close by.

As for the gourmet traveler, the region’s local products can satisfy even the most discerning palate. Truffle hunting is an everyday activity, and visitors can have the opportunity to share in the deep love these truffle searchers have for their territory (they are the primary protectors of this natural environment). When the precious underground fruit is found by their trained dogs, whose loving relationships with their owners is touching, the enthusiasm that ensues is infectious. Local restaurants are the first to champion these treasures with homemade recipes based on pasta, game or the local tasty pecorino cheese. Dairy producers in the area can also be visited.

And then, like a jewel in the crown that shines ever more brightly, there is the wine! Orcia DOC is a small denomination in terms of production, but its territory is vastly spread out, maybe even too much so, encompassing the administrative boundaries of twelve municipalities. Consequently, there are significant differences in elevation, soil composition, exposure, and everything that influences the organoleptic features of its products. So far, total production counts less than one million bottles, divided between many relatively small family-run estates, with a few exceptions of outside investors who are nonetheless deeply involved in the promotion of the denomination, by joining its council, etc. There is still room for relevant growth, maybe even by an order of magnitude.

Their approach highlights the primary role of the Sangiovese grape, with a dedicated category. Some producers (but not many) have experimented with the native variety Foglia Tonda, as a potential flagship grape of the area, but so far, they have only arisen curiosity more than real interest. The Orcia Sangiovese Reserva ambitiously requires two years of barrel aging, and we can happily admit that in our tastings we found more than one label where the oak influence is harmoniously integrated, a feature that in late years has improved significantly.

However, it is much harder to define what to expect from an Orcia wine, or better yet what it is or should be in terms of flavours, aging potential, etc. Terroir features and vineyard location are too fragmented to be able to answer such a question.

But there is one element that helps shed some light – There is a friendly atmosphere and genuine enthusiasm. Territory interpretations might be different, especially because there can be large discrepancies in resources for both work in the vineyards and in the cellars. The importance of the human factor in the alchemy of terroir expression should not be overlooked. Wines display superior finesse and focus when they harness the most meaningful features of soil and climate, with the common goal of matching body and ripeness to the tension of Sangiovese’s acidity. This results in an impressive balance that makes each sip simultaneously carefree and captivating. Without the necessary human dedication and deep awareness that the denomination has the potential to develop in this way, such an achievement would not have been possible. The most recent accolades from wine critics, Italian guides and other wine professionals prove that this effort, which has grown naturally (also through discussions between the producers, group tastings, etc.), has been properly acknowledged.

So human commitment is probably the real strength of the Orcia DOC. Producers work passionately to improve their wines and are eager to show their efforts to wine lovers (every estate, big or small is tendentially well-organized to welcome visitors). So far tours to the wineries are limited. But I think that in the future they will become even more attractive, and more widely chosen.

#italy #italianwine #italianwinelovers #winetourism #italianwinetourism#ConsorzioVinoOrcia #toscana #italia #winerytasting #tuscany #winejournalist #wineinfluencer  #orciadoc #masterclass #sangiovese #enologia #tartufo @poggiogrande_winery @sassodisole @tenutasanoner @la_nascosta @agriturismobagnaia @donatellacinellicolombini @cantinacampotondo @capitoni_winery_pienza @valdorciaterresenesi @aziendaagricolaatrivm
@podereforte @ConsorzioVinoOrcia

Colli Piacentini, and the Golden Shades of Malvasia – Filippo Magnani

September 10th, 2022, the day before the Val Tidone wine Festival, a group of journalists, wine writers and wine experts attended a press event “Emilia in Villa”, by “Emilia Wine Experience”, the organization which regroups different wine and food consortiums, and wine routes associations.

The press joined the tasting and explored the different styles of Malvasia and Gutturnio in the secular park of Villa Braghieri, Castel San Giovanni, which is in the province of Piacenza. It was a wonderfully conducted dinner that “blended” gastronomic masterpieces with a focus on the production of Malvasia which are age-worthy, white wines, that all have powerful aromas.

The vineyards in Emilia are extensively cultivated with both red and white grapes. The homeland of Malvasia is Colli Piacentini DOC, which refers to the gentle hills around Piacenza.  This is a very interesting place for wine production, because of the steep slopes of the hills, and the different compositions of soils such as red clay and limestone and it has a particularly suitable climate for the vines – long and warm summers and very cold and cloudy winters. Colli Piacentini DOC covers 3,600 hectares of hills in the westernmost part of Emilia-Romagna. It runs from the Appennine, on the border with Lombardy, through the main five valleys: Val Tidone, Val Luretta, Val Trebbia, Val Nure, and Val d’Arda.

The production covers a wide range of wine styles and grape varieties. Among the many native grapes cultivated there is no doubt that Malvasia Aromatica is the golden shade of those wines. As the name suggests, it is very aromatic, but the producers of the area (over 80) have been keen to develop different styles of Malvasia, from dry to sweet, to bubbly and skin-fermented.

The DOC Colli Piacentini appellation has been protected by the local consortium since 1986, and, every year, celebrates with unbelievable enthusiasm the so-called Val Tidone Wine Festival in the charming towns of the DOC area. The event joins art, culture, local food, wine and hospitality, to create and promote the connection between the greatness of the territory. Tidone Valley is a land of scenic and breathtaking views. The smooth hills of the valley lead to Ziano Piacentino, the largest vine-covered area in Italy; and a historical town rich with castles under the same name. It is blessed to have a strategic geographic position, midway between North and Central Italy. The adjacent towns are also embellished with beautiful buildings and fortresses, some of them still have ruins from Roman times. The entire area is favored with green forests and pristine nature, around the river Trebbia, which contributes to the moisture of the area even during drought periods.

Emilia Wine Experience

The “Emilia Wine Experience” arises from the need of the territory representatives to emerge, or rather, to promote and communicate, in a more effective way, the potential of Emilia. The project also creates and promotes the territorial brand “Emilia” and has managed to involve 20 municipalities, gathered around the three main Provinces along the fascinating 5 roads of wine and flavors of Emilia: Piacenza, Parma and Reggio Emilia, two Consortiums of Protection, and a local association; all united to enhance the strong link between territory, wine, and tourism. The “Emilia Wine Experience” is a model of local development that brings together all the many experiences, events and quality initiatives of the territory, it collects them in the same portal, and gives them easy access.

“Emilia is a land of food and wine masterpieces”.

http://www.emiliawineexperience.it

 

Tasting Notes

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “SORRISO DI CIELO” 2020 – LA TOSA

This winery dates back in the nineties, being one of the first to focus on still and dry Malvasia, that age. No doubt, this is a winning project of La Tosa, as their Malvasia is one of the few that can be aged for decades, keeping its body and aromas. This wine brings memories of Sicily, as the aromatic bouquet recalls Sicilian Muscat. The colour is deep golden and, on the nose, a lot of orange blossoms and dried apricot. On the mouth it is medium-bodied, easy drinking with a green finish.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “BACIAMANO” 2020 – MOSSI 1558

One of the most historical wineries of the area, immersed into the vineyards. Their Malvasia is pretty unique, as it is aged in porcelain stoneware, where it is fermented and aged for 6 months. The color tends to be more golden, but with deep notes of citrus, exotic fruits and dried herbs. On the mouth, its alcohol is well-balanced by the lashing citrusy acidity and long dry back taste.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “BOCCADIROSA” 2020 – LURETTA

An enchanting place for winemaking: a castle on the hills of Piacenza, a timeless place that was kept untouched through the years, since 1000. The same walls of the Middle Ages actually host the winemaking area and aging cellars. Since 1988 the vineyards have grown organic for a wide production of wine. This Malvasia shows brilliant amber color, with nice notes of cedar wood, beeswax, and candied orange zest. Full-bodied, with an immediate cleanness, almost tannic and salty on the back taste.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “TASTO DI SETA” 2019 – CASTELLO DI LUZZANO

A family-run winery made of passion and bonds with Northern Italy, that has concentrated its efforts and resources on dry Malvasia, in order to produce one of the most elegant examples of this wine. The straw yellow color, the nose has intriguing notes of cantaloupe, orange blossoms and chalk. On the mouth, its silky taste (as its name evokes, silk is “seta in” Italian) is well-balanced and long finish.

#stradavinicollipiacentini @stradavinicollipiacentini @visitemilia.official @inemiliaromagna @comunedicsg @visitpiacenza.official #emiliawineexperience #collipiacentini #tastecollipiacentini #visitemilia #igerspiacenza #piacenza #vivopiacenza #piacenzanonsiferma #piacenzafood #italianwine #italy #italianwinelovers #winetasting #wineevent #winetourism #malvasia

“Benvenuto Brunello 2022” Preview – Filippo Magnani

Tasting fresh, elegant, new vintage Brunello wines, a tempting invitation to explore the magnificent wine land of Montalcino…

From 11th to 21st November, the village of Montalcino under the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, hosted by “Benvenuto Brunello” which is dedicated to the new vintages of this famous wine. The 2022 edition gathered some influential wine writers, journalists, bloggers and traders from around the world to present the Rosso di Montalcino 2021, Brunello 2018 , and the Brunello Riserva 2017. 137 wineries and 300 ready-to-taste-labels read to be released on the market from January 2023.  For the first time, on 17th November, “Brunello Day” made its debut simultaneously in the cities of London, New York City, Los Angeles and Toronto. The last 3 days of the event in Montalcino were open to the public by ticket. A unique opportunity for wine lovers to enjoy themselves in the increasingly innovative and prestigious territory of Montalcino and furthermore to get a chance to meet the brilliant producers of this territory.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese 

The production area of Brunello corresponds to the Historical Limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village, just 40 km south of Siena, which is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is in the shape of a square, around the town and it’s very interesting to go through the microclimate differences in such a small territory. It is a dry land that enclaves a multitude of combinations of microclimates and soils. In general terms, the grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located in higher-elevation hills (not over 600 metres) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes are hosted in quite another environment. The soils are richer, like clay, the sunlight is more intense, sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the wines result more powerful. Furthermore, the presence in the South of Mount Amiata (1740m) has an important influence by shielding the vineyards from strong atmospheric phenomena and provide breezes that keep the climate dry and the vines’ healthy.

The Sangiovese Grosso – the fingerprint of Brunello 

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before the quality peak.  Once reached, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Rosso DOC. It is a very sensitive native grape, one of the highest quality varieties that needs careful practicing, and impeccable attention to its production process, harvest and vinification.  It is a variety that shows off fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of the Sangiovese are the main factors of its longevity. It performs differently in each different site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir combined with the play of time has always given elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to be a surprise. It is an example of an impressive year by year quality persistence and every vintage looks at a different profile of the beauty of Sangiovese variety, revealing a different nuance of its character each time.

A successful wine story 

The road that leads Montalcino to be the phenomenon that it is today is a path that speaks of great difficulties, resilience, and a success that in the world of Italian wine has no equal. Many interpreters, local producers, important winemakers and wine families from other regions and even international investors, but who all produce Brunello with the same grape, under the same strict rules and with the same quality objectives. The shared path and consistency of nature at its best, is perhaps the greatest strength and energy of the ascent, and subsequent permanence of Brunello di Montalcino among the wines that we can define legendary. The echo of success, in the last 50 years is continually expanding and there is no oenophile that doesn’t proudly display Brunello wines on their precious wine shelf. Today, the popularity of Brunello di Montalcino continues on world markets, thanks to a sharply rising average price, a good hold on volumes, and further growth in strategic markets, already protagonists of a boom in demand over the previous two years. The results are noted by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, in the release of data recorded by the new Price Observatory on sales over the first nine months of the year. According to the sample of wineries, accounting for 28% of designation sales, the growth trend in September registers + 21.5% in terms of value, with a leap in average prices of “Vintage” and “Riserva” products – now close to 27 Euros per bottle ex cellar (+ 14%, with peaks of over 24% in the USA) – well beyond the inflationary push. Also on the rise, surprisingly for a not very rich last vintage (2017), are the volumes, up by 6%. The projection over the 12 months of 2022, according to the Consortium, should bring a total value of Brunello sales close to 250 million Euros. Numbers for Rosso di Montalcino are also up, with rises in both value (+ 20%) and volume (+ 9%).

In Italy it is known by 2 out of 3 consumers, surpassing in notoriety even the nearby Tuscan Giants. This is the data collected by Wine Intelligence that analysed the strength and recognizability of the 46 main appellations made in Italy. Domestic demand proceeds very well, confirmed as strongly rising and now representing about one third of the entire market thanks to a growth in volumes of over 17%, with values at + 31%. Overall, in the first nine months of this year, nearly 7 million bottles of Brunello di Montalcino were sold between “Vintage”, “Vigna” (i.e., single-vineyard) and “Riserva” products, the latter being the protagonist of a very strong increase over the same period in 2021.

Montalcino, a dream wine travel destination

Montalcino was a very important stop of the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome and, therefore, it welcomed and hosted important men of power, nobles, politicians, popes… The great Wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors who were traveling to reach the Eternal City, and that’s why the hamlet has always displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.  Montalcino today is internationally affirmed as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting.  It has to do with the history of its people, and it helps you to understand why wine is so integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who from generation to generation continue to pass on their passion and know-how. The town welcomes many visitors and the care of its hospitality has become just as important as the attention to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&B, luxurious accommodation within the wine estates and impeccable hotels. The cellars are open to all visitors and the experiences to participate in are numerous. It is possible to choose the itinerary that best suits their own needs, and each chosen path knows how to leave its mark. The rolling hills of Montalcino are also the setting for two important sporting events, where professional, competitive, and amateur cyclists and walkers can take up the challenge or try their hand at routes of different intensities and difficulties: the Brunello Crossing (for the walkers) and L’Eroica (for the cyclists) for example.

#italianwine #italianwinelovers #winelovers #wine #brunello2022 #brunellodimontalcino #montalcinom #winetourism #sangiovese #benvenutobrunello #vineyards #tuscany #toscana #winery @brunellodimontalcino #winetasting