Celebrating Pioneering Young Women in Wine: A Journey Through Four Exceptional Wine Gems of Italy

In the world of wine, the contributions of young women or vignaiole Italiane continue to shape the industry in profound ways. From across Italy’s rolling vineyards, these remarkable women are creating wines that speak of tradition, innovation, and a deep connection to the land. Here, we spotlight four extraordinary wineries led by passionate young women who are making waves in the Italian wine world: Noemi Pizzighella, Angela Fronti, Laura DeVito, and Arianna Occhipinti.

Le Guaite di Noemi: A Symphony of Tradition and Terroir in the Valpolicella, Veneto

Noemi Pizzighella, the driving force behind Le Guaite, is a young and highly respected winemaker in Veneto. Growing up in the vineyards of Mezzane di Sotto, north of Verona, Noemi was immersed in the rich viticultural traditions of her family. Her father, Stefano Pizzighella, started a small olive oil production in 1987, making the most of the family’s olive groves. Inspired by her father’s dedication, Noemi developed her passion for winemaking as a child.

Wines
Le Guaite’s portfolio includes the celebrated Amarone della Valpolicella, known for its rich, robust profile with notes of dark fruit, spice, and a velvety finish. The Valpolicella Superiore is another standout, offering a harmonious balance of red berries, herbs, and subtle oak. Noemi’s meticulous attention to detail ensures that each bottle embodies the essence of the region. Noemi’s wines include: Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Tano IGT Rosso Veronese. These wines are celebrated for their fresh and fruity nuances, distancing themselves from the opulence of certain other Valpolicella wines.

Visiting Le Guaite
A visit to Le Guaite offers a serene and intimate experience. The winery is situated in the picturesque hills of Mezzane di Sotto, providing stunning views of the surrounding vineyards. Guests can enjoy guided tours of the vineyards and cellars, followed by a tasting of Noemi’s exquisite wines. The experience is enhanced by Noemi’s personal touch, as she often shares her insights and stories behind each vintage. The combination of volcanic and marine soil, along with the breezes from Lake Garda, creates a unique terroir that is reflected in every bottle.

www.leguaite.it

Istine: Angela Fronti’s Tribute to Chianti Classico, Tuscany

Angela Fronti, the visionary behind Istine, brings a fresh perspective to Chianti Classico. Growing up in a family deeply rooted in the winemaking traditions of Tuscany, Angela was inspired by the vineyards that surrounded her childhood home. Determined to carve out her own path in the wine world, she pursued viticulture with a focus on organic farming and sustainable practices. Angela’s journey as a woman in the wine industry has been one of resilience and innovation, constantly pushing the boundaries of traditional winemaking.

Wines
Istine’s Chianti Classico wines are vibrant and elegant, characterized by bright cherry, earthy undertones, and a refreshing acidity. The Riserva offers a more complex profile with layers of red fruit, tobacco, and a lingering finish. The single-vineyard selections are particularly noteworthy, offering a deeper exploration of the terroir with complex flavors. Angela’s wines are a true reflection of her commitment to excellence and sustainability.

Visiting Istine
Nestled in the heart of Radda in Chianti, Istine provides a quintessential Chianti Classico experience. Visitors can explore the organically farmed vineyards and learn about Angela’s sustainable practices. The winery offers tastings that showcase the range and depth of Istine’s wines, often accompanied by local cheeses and charcuterie. Angela’s passion for her craft and her engaging storytelling makes each visit memorable.

www.istine.it

Laura DeVito: Crafting Elegance in Every Bottle in Lapio, Campania

Laura DeVito is an emerging talent in the Italian wine scene, known for her sophisticated approach to winemaking. Laura was born and raised in Lapìo, a small town in the province of Avellino, within the historic district of Irpinia. Surrounded by the vineyards and the enchanting landscape of the Calore River valley near Mount Tuoro, Laura’s passion for viticulture was kindled at a young age. Her curiosity and dedication to understanding the terroir led her to pursue formal education in viticulture and enology.

In 2018, Laura and her husband, Carmine De Maria, founded the Laura DeVito winery. Their goal was to enhance and showcase the unique qualities of the Fiano grape, a variety deeply rooted in the history and culture of Lapìo. As a woman in the wine industry, Laura faced the challenge of carving out her niche in a male-dominated field. Her perseverance, combined with an unwavering belief in the potential of her land, has led to the creation of wines that are celebrated for their elegance and complexity.

Wines
The Laura DeVito winery focuses exclusively on Fiano di Avellino, producing four distinct labels that highlight the nuances of different terroirs. The wines are crafted with meticulous care, following a philosophy of minimal intervention and respect for the natural characteristics of the grapes. Each label is a testament to the varying microclimates, soils, and altitudes of the vineyards in Arianiello, Verzare, and Sauroni.

Visiting Laura DeVito
The Laura DeVito winery offers an intimate and personal experience for visitors. Nestled in the scenic countryside of Lapìo, the winery provides a serene backdrop for exploring the vineyards and learning about the winemaking process. Guests can enjoy guided tours that delve into the specifics of Laura’s approach, followed by tastings of the elegant Fiano di Avellino wines. The combination of Laura’s engaging personality and the tranquil setting makes for an unforgettable visit.

www.lauradevito.it

Arianna Occhipinti: The Icon of Organic Wines in Vittoria, Sicily

Arianna Occhipinti is a name synonymous with natural winemaking in Sicily. Raised in Vittoria, Arianna was surrounded by vineyards and winemaking traditions that deeply influenced her. From an early age, she was determined to follow in her family’s footsteps but with a modern twist, embracing biodynamic practices and low-intervention winemaking. As a pioneering woman in the natural wine movement, Arianna has faced numerous challenges but has remained steadfast in her commitment to producing authentic, terroir-driven wines.

Wines
Arianna’s Frappato and Nero d’Avola wines are celebrated for their vibrant, expressive nature. The SP68 Rosso, a blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola, offers a lively bouquet of red fruits, herbs, and a hint of spice, with a fresh, approachable palate. Her wines are renowned for their authenticity and the vivid expression of their origins.

Visiting Arianna Occhipinti
A visit to Arianna Occhipinti’s winery in Vittoria is a journey into the heart of natural winemaking. Guests can tour the biodynamic vineyards and learn about Arianna’s minimalist approach in the cellar. Tastings are often held in the charming winery or amidst the vines, offering a chance to savor the unique flavors of her wines in their place of origin. Arianna’s passion and knowledge make each visit an educational and inspiring experience.

www.agricolaocchipinti.it

These four women are not just winemakers; they are trailblazers who embody the spirit of innovation and respect for tradition in the wine world. Whether you’re planning your next wine tour or looking to expand your cellar, the wines of Le Guaite di Noemi, Istine, Laura DeVito, and Arianna Occhipinti are sure to inspire. Each bottle tells a story of passion, dedication, and the unique terroir from which it hails. Cheers to these remarkable women behind these exceptional wines!

Filippo Magnani

Sicilia En Primeur: Celebrating 25 Years of Assovini Sicilia’s Unified Vision for Sicilian Producers – Filippo Magnani

May 9th and 10th, the Sicilian wine community achieved a new milestone in Cefalù, Sicily with over 100 wine journalists and 59 wineries who convened to explore and evaluate over 300 labels, participate in five masterclasses, and embark on ten curated wine tours.

For over 25 years Sicilia En Primeur has been celebrating the evolution of a diverse wine region on the Mediterranean’s largest island – Its history, culture, traditions and food are as rich as they are diverse.

Some History
Assovini Sicilia was founded 25 years ago by Diego Planeta, Lucio Tasca d’Almerita and Giacomo Rallo who launched an association and has since grown in membership and international success due to their visionary and collaborative approach. The theme of this year’s event was “ Cultivating The Future” which focused on the evolution of Sicilian wine, its cultural value, wine tourism, and future prospects, with participation from journalists, producers, and industry representatives. Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia, emphasized how the association has promoted a contemporary and dynamic image of Sicily, making it a brand of significant cultural value and international appeal. The association’s success is based on innovation and adaptability, integrating new generations into company management roles and focusing on sustainability and wine tourism. Particular emphasis was on the role of the new generation of wine production in Sicily and illustrated with the poignant video entitled “Next Generation”.

The event was moderated by the prestigious journalist Gioacchino Bonsignore (TG5 Mediaset) and featured presentations from an all-star cast such as the one of Monica Larner, Italian reviewer, Robert Parker Wine Advocate who presented the Trends and Perception of Sicilian Wine in the US Market; a glance at the Past to Imagine the Future in the vineyard by Alessio Planeta, CEO Planeta winery; The Story of a Thriving Partnership by Antonio Rallo, President of the Consortium for the Protection of Sicilia DOC; The New Frontiers of Green and the Experience of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation with Alberto Tasca, President of the SOStain Sicilia Foundation and even more including the ambassador of Sicilian culture Regoli, Director of WineNews.

In addition to the conference, Sicilia En Primeur organized their yearly wine tours of the territory which gives participants a chance to delve deeper into the multitude of Sicily’s wine zones, discovering their evolution and the new frontiers of each area. I have had the chance to explore the central-southern part of the island. So, along with the prominent Nero d’Avola, the identity of Sicily in red in different versions (rosé, sparkling, fruity and light or more structured reds); there were also the whites especially Catarratto in which many producers of the area specifically believe in for the production of wonderful Classic Method Sparkling wine especially at high altitude; I could taste different versions of my beloved Frappato with its versatility and captivating juicy character also able to produce rosé, delicious bubbles or it is blended with the generally more concentrated Nero d’Avola for a perfect balance.

A Culinary Journey Through Basilicata by Chefs Davide Ciavattella and Ernesto Iaccarino at Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890

On Monday, June 17th, 2024, I had the profound pleasure of indulging in a meticulously curated menu by Chefs Davide Ciavattella and Ernesto Iaccarino at Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890, Toronto.

The restaurant’s design and ambiance were nothing short of exquisite, setting the stage for an unforgettable culinary experience for the invitation-only guests. The evening featured an eight-course dinner paired with exceptional Basilicata wines, all orchestrated by the talented Executive Chef Davide Ciavattella.

The dishes and wines highlighted products from the Basilicata (Vulture-Alto Bradano) region, highlighting exceptional olive oils, wines, cheeses, and the famous peperone crusco all introduced to Canada for the first time by the Local Action Group LUCUS and Citta Del’ Olio. These two esteemed associations, founded in 1994, are dedicated to uniting local producers who uphold the historical, cultural, and environmental values and traditional production methods of the region. The harmonious blend of flavors and the carefully selected wine pairings elevated the dining experience to new heights, celebrating the rich heritage and gastronomic excellence of Basilicata.

For further details: Città dell’Olio (Trmtv.it) (Associazione Nazionale Città dell’Olio) (Associazione Nazionale Città dell’Olio).

Exploring Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Wines – Toronto

I spend this afternoon tasting and exploring Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC wines at the historic Carlu, Toronto.

Participating wineries included:

Cirelli – Azienda Tilli – Tenuta Micoli – Ausonia – Caprera – Castorani– Colle Moro – Nicodemi – Cantina Tollo – San Lorenzo – Stefania Pepe – Valle Martello

Did you know?
That Abruzzo has been dubbed Europe’s greenest region. Approximately half of this area has been being designated a national parkland and habitat for endangered species as part of a massive “rewilding” project.

Despite its natural beauty and bounty, as well as a 2,500-year-long history of winemaking, this region in Southern Italy is still under-the-radar.

Let’s Discover the Wines of Barbera d’Asti & Monferrato – Part l

This jewel of Piedmont became part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 2014.  It is interesting to note, that this was the first time an Italian vineyard landscape “Monferrato, Piedmont” was recognized as having exceptional value by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee, and these landscapes were listed as such.

UNESCO states:

“are an exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape cultivation, the processes for wine-making, a rural social context, and an economic fabric based on the culture of wine.”

I was thrilled to learn more about this exceptional area. I attended a Masterclass, a few weeks ago, which was conducted by the very knowledgeable Andrea Dani, at Palazzo Crova. For history buffs, Palazzo Crova, is a stunning example of an 18th-century noble residence in this region.

Andrea, a member of Associazione Italiana Sommelier, conducted an overview on Barbera D’asti DOCG, Nizza DOCG and Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG.

The Consortium

The Barbera d’Asti and Monferrato Wines Consortium was founded in 1946 to protect and promote its denominations, and their image, on national and international markets. Currently, the Consortium has more than 404 membered- companies and 13 protected denominations.

Filippo Mobrici, Vice President of Barbera d’Asti and Monferrato Wines Consortium, says:

“There are many wine souls that find expression in Monferrato, and the Consortium has had the objective, since its inception, precisely to act as a bond to keep these multiplicities united, to promote the entire territory and its excellence in a unitary and uniform way.”

Barbera

Barbera is a northern Italian grape that produces fresh, light-bodied red wines with low tannins. Like so many Italian wine grape varieties, Barbera has ancient origins that traces back to the 17th Century. Barbera was first cited in 1798, in a document, by Count Giuseppe Nuvolone-Pergamo of Scandaluzzo.

With this history, Barbera likely originated in Piedmont, the region for which it is well known. Alongside Barbera d’Alba DOC and Barbera d’Asti DOCG, the grape also gives its name to the Barbera del Monferrato DOC and Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG titles – all in the Piedmont region.

The “Barbera” grape variety is also referred to as ‘La Barbera’, treating it in the feminine context. This variety is challenging to cultivate as it produces many shoots, therefore requiring regular pruning and low yields. Century-old vines still exist in many regional vineyards. It ripens relatively late, has a unique balance between sugar and acidity, and is a deep ruby colour.

General tasting notes include:
Lively and bright colours, intense fruit aromas, spicey notes, some toasted and balsamic notes, crunchy acidity, low tannins and excellent food pairing options

Barbera can also be found outside Piedmont: Oltrepò Pavese, Colli Piacentini, Franciacorta, Umbria, Campania, Puglia, Sicilia, and has been adopted by winegrowers around the world: California and South America.

The Soils of Monferrato

The soils on which Barbera and the other Monferrato grape varieties are grown date back to 2 million years ago.  The sea began to leave the current Po Valley, initiating a process of landscape shaping that has characterized the change and the present-day conformation of the hills.

The soils, generally poor in organic matter, and often dry in summer, can be divided into two main types: white soils and Asti sands. White soils are more ancient and widespread in the Canelli area, southern Asti area, Alessandria area and the Casale area. The wines produced from these grapes are often full-bodied, rich in color, and are suitable for long aging. The sands of Asti soils spread mainly in the center of the Asti Monferrato area to the right and left of the Tanaro River and are found on much steeper hills. The wines produced from these grapes here are characterized by lower acidity,  ripen faster, and are more for immediate consumption.

                    Climate

The Climate in this area is Continental with hot summers (+/- 35 degrees), some drought and cold winters ( -/+15 degrees).  Rainfall between May and November is 700-800 mm/year.

Barbera D’Asti DOCG

Ancient farming traditions are representative in this area, which forms 116 municipalities in the province of Asti, and 51 municipalities in the province of Alessandria. 90% of Barbera is produced on the best-exposed hills of Asti and Monferrato. Barbera DOCG is usually harvested in the second half of September. Vinification is usually in steel, which produces fresher and more immediate wines, the use of barriques and barrels has developed, aimed at producing the Superiore which, tends to be more complex, and long-aging.

With respect to the organoleptic characteristics, the color is ruby-red, particularly intense in Superiore, tending towards garnet with aging. The aromas are intense: cherry, plum, dark berries prevail, which evolve into hints of jam, some balsamic, spicy, and floral notes. The taste is full, with great harmony. Aging often gives complexity and richness of velvet tannins and long taste-olfactory persistence.

Barbera D’Asti DOCG Timeline

1970 – Acquired DOC Barbera d’Asti
2008 – DOC Barbera d’Asti DOCG Barbera d’Asti. 3 subzones:

    1. Nizza
    2. Tinella
    3. Colli Astiani

2016 – Nizza DOCG (18 municipalities – Nizza Monferrato)

Production specifications include:

Territory: 167 municipalities in the province of Asti and Alessandria

Ampelography: min.90% Barbera grapes + 10% max other non-aromatic red grapes allowed in Piedmont

Yield: 9 ton/ha

Minimum natural alcohol content: 12%vol., 12.5%vol. Superiore

Minimum aging: 4 months – 14 months (Superiore, with min.6 in wood)

Nizza DOCG

Produced with only Barbera grapes, Nizza DOCG comes to life in the heart of Monferrato, in a production area that includes 18 municipalities. Nizza DOCG was in fact initially recognized as a sub-area of Barbera d’Asti and obtained its DOCG recognition in 2014.

These wines are usually aged for 18 months, of which 6 months in wooden barrels. Nizza DOCG is a wine characterized by intense aromas of cherry, plum and dark berries, which evolve into hints of jam, with some balsamic, spicy and floral notes. If aged in wood, the wine develops notes of cinnamon, cocoa and licorice. The taste is full, with great harmony. Aging gives complexity and richness of sweet and velvety tannins and long taste-olfactory persistence.

Nizza DOCG Timeline

1970 – DOC Barbera d’Asti

2000 – (vintage) Nizza as a subzone of the Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza

2008 – DOCG Barbera d’Asti

2014 – (vintage) Nizza DOCG (18 municipalities – Nizza Monferrato)

Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG

It’s interesting to note, that the origin of the Ruchè varietal cannot be confirmed. Its history can be reconstructed of verbal traditions passed on from generation to generation.

Ruchè is one of the rarest native vines grown in the Asti Monferrato area, in calcareous, dry soils subject to great exposure to the sun. It obtained DOCG status in 2010 and its production now reaches one million bottles. Made with 90 to 100% Ruchè grapes (with Barbera and/or Brachetto grapes permitted up to a maximum of 10%), Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG is distinguished by an intense and original bouquet, with floral and spicy notes, sometimes combined with hints of mixed berries and morello cherries. The flavor is dry, harmonious and pleasantly soft, with good aromatic persistence.

Wines of Barbera d’Asti & Monferrato
By the Numbers

404 associated companies

13 Protected designations

4 DOCGs:
Barbera d’Asti, Nizza, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato and Terre Alfieri

 9 DOCs:
Albugnano, Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Asti, Freisa d’Asti, Grignolino d’Asti, Loazzolo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Piemonte

In the Vineyard

The area claimed by all the Designations of the Consortium in 2021 was equal to 10,430 hectares.

4,142 hectares claimed to Barbera d’Asti DOCG

3,827 hectares claimed to Piedmont DOC

In the Wine Cellar

As of 2021, the total amount of bottled wine registered by all protected Designations was equal to 492,986.21 hl for 65,731,495 bottles.

Barbera d’Asti DOCG: 149,689.70 hectoliters and 19,958,627 bottles

Piemonte DOC: 275,696.83 hectoliters and 36,759,577 bottles