Pre–New Year’s Dinner: Why Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Cristal 2016 Redefine Celebration

 

Some evenings feel like prologues. The eve before New Year’s Eve is one of them, less noise, more contemplation. It’s the space where conversation deepens, and Champagne becomes less of a party trick and more of an essay in liquid form.

This year, my pre–New Year’s dinner is guided by the ethos of Louis Roederer: discipline in the vineyard, patience in the cellar, and a refusal to perform theatrics for their own sake. To explore that ethos at the table, I’ve chosen two Champagne classics whose architecture and restraint echo this sensibility: Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Louis Roederer Cristal 2016.

The House: Louis Roederer Precision as Philosophy

Founded in 1833 and based in Reims, Louis Roederer evolved from a respectable maison into one of Champagne’s most quietly rigorous estates. By the mid-19th century, Roederer did something radical for the time: it began purchasing vineyards rather than relying solely on growers. Controlling fruit quality became a long game, not an annual negotiation.

Today, the estate owns almost 250 hectares, with an increasing emphasis on organic and biodynamic practices. This underpins the house’s unmistakable personality: depth without heaviness, tension without austerity, and a calm, almost meditative finish.

Wine Tourism: Less Spectacle, More Insight

Visiting Roederer isn’t about neon-lit cellars and selfies with sabres. Experiences tend to privilege understanding over spectacle.

The estate provides guided vineyard walks, cellar visits, and tastings that unpack:

  • The role of reserve wines
  • The quiet architecture of blending
  • How climate change is reshaping decisions in real time

These experiences feel more like seminars than shows – the kind of visit that leaves your notebook full and your mind happily buzzing.

On the Table with Roederer’s Spirit

Louis Roederer Collection 245

This is Roederer’s perpetual-reserve concept in motion – perfect rhythm and balance. In the glass, the bubbles are fine and controlled. Aromatically, there are hints of ripe pear, Golden Delicious apple, lemon zest, and a faint line of brioche. There’s a saline whisper running underneath. On the palate, it moves with precision: orchard fruit, a touch of almond, subtle creaminess, and a clean, linear finish that leaves a chalk-dust memory.

Pairing for our pre–New Year’s dinner

This is the “conversation starter” wine. I paired this wine with oysters, with a light mignonette, and scallop carpaccio – dishes that respect the structure without overpowering it.

Louis Roederer Cristal 2016

The 2016 is sculpted: luminous citrus, white peach, subtle apricot skin, and that crystalline chalk character that defines Roederer’s grandest vineyards. There’s also a hint of hazelnut and delicate pastry, sitting quietly behind the mineral spine. The palate feels both weightless and deep, with a long, resonant finish. That’s power.

Pairing for a pre–New Year’s dinner

This wine was served later in the progression. I paired it with butter-poached lobster and roast capon with thyme and lemon. Perfection.

Why Louis Roederer Collection 245 and Louis Roederer Cristal 2016 Before New Year’s?

Because the night before the noise deserves reflection. Louis Roederer’s philosophy grounds the evening – time and patience.

And as the calendar inches toward midnight the next day, this pre-new year’s dinner became a quiet rehearsal, acknowledging change -reviewing the year before we write the next chapter.

Champagne Laurent-Perrier: Two Iconic Expressions for the Holiday Season

Among the many Champagne houses that balance intellectual rigour with pure pleasure, Laurent-Perrier stands confidently at the top of the pyramid. For the holiday season, two cuvées in particular capture my attention, both for celebratory exuberance and contemplative depth: Grand Siècle No. 26 and Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé. Each expresses a different philosophy of luxury – one built on time, precision, and layered complexity, the other on immediacy, purity of fruit, and joy. Together, they form an ideal festive pairing.

About Champagne Laurent-Perrier

The house known today as Laurent-Perrier traces its origins to 1812, when André-Michel Pierlot, a cooper and bottler from Chigny-les-Roses, established his enterprise in the Grand Cru village of Tours-sur-Marne. His acquisition of vineyard parcels known as Les Plaisances and La Tour Glorieux laid the viticultural foundations for what would become one of Champagne’s most influential independent houses.

Over the course of the 20th century, particularly under the visionary leadership of Bernard de Nonancourt, Laurent-Perrier evolved from a respected regional producer into a global Grande Marque, exporting to more than 140 countries. The house became synonymous with freshness, elegance, and technical innovation, pioneering the use of stainless-steel fermentation and challenging conventions with non-dosé and rosé Champagnes produced by maceration.

Today, Laurent-Perrier remains a family-owned business, continuing to strike a balance between heritage and modernity. Its stylistic identity is unmistakable: Champagne is defined not by power alone, but by finesse, clarity, and restraint.

Tasting Notes

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle No. 26

This prestige multi-vintage cuvée is composed of three exceptional years rather than a single declared vintage. Predominantly Chardonnay, complemented by Pinot Noir, it is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards.

Grand Siècle is built on Laurent-Perrier’s philosophy of creating a “perfect vintage in a bottle.” Extended lees ageing in chalk cellars allows the wine to develop extraordinary depth while preserving freshness. It rewards both patient cellaring and thoughtful immediate enjoyment.

Tasting Profile

On opening, the nose is refined and expressive: brioche, toasted almonds, hazelnut, warm pastry, honeyed nuances, and citrus peel. With time in the glass, additional layers emerge, including candied citrus, white flowers, gentle spice, gingerbread, and a finely etched mineral line. The palate is rich yet controlled, with a creamy, seamless mousse and remarkable balance between acidity and depth. Flavours of toasted nuts, brioche, citrus zest, and subtle stone fruit unfold toward a long, mineral-driven finish. The impression is confident, complex, and quietly powerful.

This Champagne is for slow contemplation and refined holiday meals such as white truffle, veal, fine poultry, or a perfectly roasted turkey. Grand Siècle No. 26 doesn’t shout; it resonates.

97 Points
Liz Palmer

Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Brut Rosé

This non-vintage rosé Champagne is made from 100% Pinot Noir, produced using the saignée (maceration) method, rather than blending in red wine. This technique preserves purity, structure, and aromatic precision.

Vinified with meticulous attention to aromatic clarity, the wine reflects Laurent-Perrier’s hallmark freshness and technical precision. Stainless-steel fermentation and careful lees management deliver intensity without heaviness.

Tasting Profile

In the glass, a delicate salmon-petal hue with fine, energetic mousse. Aromatically vivid, offering freshly crushed raspberries, wild strawberries, red currant, and hints of cherry, accented by subtle florals and a whisper of brioche. On the palate, the texture is silky and rounded, with bright red-berry flavours leading into gentle creaminess, a light mineral edge, and a refreshing, balanced finish.

Charming, expressive, and endlessly versatile, this cuvée rosé shines as an aperitif and pairs effortlessly with seafood, lighter holiday dishes, or even spicy cuisine. It’s festive energy in a glass.

94 Points
Liz Palmer

Wine Tourism

Laurent-Perrier’s headquarters and principal vineyards are located in Tours-sur-Marne, in the heart of Champagne. Its prestigious Château de Louvois, a 17th-century estate associated with Grand Siècle, reinforces the house’s connection to heritage and grandeur. The château’s Orangery, restored in 2023 and awarded the Pierre Cheval Prize, reflects ongoing investment in cultural preservation.

Laurent-Perrier maintains a discreet, curated visitor policy. While public tours are not guaranteed, select visits—often for trade or VIPs—offer access to some of Champagne’s most extensive cellars. In the context of Champagne’s tourism boom following UNESCO designation, Laurent-Perrier appears strategically positioned for high-end, heritage-driven experiences rather than mass visitation.

Reflections: Why Laurent-Perrier Still Matters in 2025

Laurent-Perrier occupies a rare space in Champagne: intellectually serious, technically innovative, yet emotionally accessible. Its willingness to challenge tradition, while respecting it, has shaped a style that is fresh, refined, and enduring. In an era where wine tourism increasingly values authenticity and cultural depth, Laurent-Perrier’s quiet confidence and curated approach feel not only relevant but refreshingly modern.

A Classic Hostess Gift for the Holidays: Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Gift Pack with Two Flutes

Amid the endless swirl of holiday gifting, a few offerings strike the elusive balance between polish and pleasure quite like the Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Gift Pack, complete with two refined Champagne flutes. It is an effortlessly gracious hostess gift – considered, celebratory, and refreshingly unpretentious.

Tasting Notes
At its core is Nicolas Feuillatte’s Réserve Exclusive Brut, a finely tuned blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay. The Champagne delivers both approachability and depth, revealing layers of orchard fruit, subtle brioche, and a lifted mineral finish. It shows good structure and is elegant and expressive.

Classic Pairings
At the table, Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Brut proves endlessly versatile. It pairs beautifully with holiday classics such as smoked salmon, roast turkey, or festive canapés, and shines just as brightly on its own as a refined aperitif. With its thoughtful presentation and timeless appeal, this gift pack elevates any gathering – proof that the best gifts are those that feel both celebratory and sincere.

Wine Tourism
Nicolas Feuillatte is based in Chouilly, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, where it operates one of the most advanced Champagne facilities in the region. While the brand is globally recognized, it remains deeply connected to its grower network and regional identity. The Centre Vinicole – Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte also welcomes visitors, offering curated tastings and guided experiences that explore Champagne production, blending philosophy, and the cooperative model. It is a meaningful stop for wine tourism enthusiasts seeking both education and immersion.

The 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello: Italy’s premier wine preview showcases a vintage of elegance and restraint

Montalcino opened its historic cellars and welcomed the world once again for the 34th edition of Benvenuto Brunello, held November 20–24 at the Chiostro di Sant’Agostino. As Italy’s longest-running wine preview event, this year’s gathering brought the international wine community together to taste the highly anticipated Brunello di Montalcino 2021, alongside Brunello Riserva 2020 and Rosso di Montalcino 2024. With 122 wineries presenting their wines and approximately 100 journalists and industry professionals in attendance, the event underscored Brunello’s enduring status as one of Italy’s most prestigious wine denominations. The international presence was particularly notable, with nearly half of the attending journalists coming from abroad, reflecting Brunello’s truly global appeal.

The event maintained its successful dual format pioneered in previous years. The first three days (November 20–22) were reserved for trade and media, featuring technical tastings. The final two days opened to Italian and international wine lovers, restaurant professionals, wine merchants, and sommeliers for walk-around sessions where they could meet producers directly.

Brunello’s continued market strength

Brunello di Montalcino has achieved what few wine denominations can claim: sustained growth in both prestige and commercial success over the past half-century. The denomination’s popularity continues to expand in world markets, driven by rising average prices, stable volumes, and growth in strategic regions. Recent data from Wine Intelligence confirms Brunello’s exceptional brand recognition in Italy, where it is known by two out of three consumers, surpassing in notoriety even neighbouring Tuscan appellations.

Rosso di Montalcino continues to show impressive growth. Following the expansion of vineyard area, bottlings in the first ten months reached nearly 4 million State Seals issued, marking a 29% year-on-year increase. This secondary appellation has become an important entry point for consumers discovering the territory while also serving as an earlier-drinking expression of Montalcino’s terroir. The Consorzio announced plans to launch a new promotional program for the denomination in 2026, involving collective participation in primary markets, particularly the United States, as well as additional strategic destinations. The aim is to diversify business opportunities for producers as much as possible, ensuring the denomination’s continued growth across multiple markets rather than relying too heavily on any single region.

Understanding the 2021 vintage

One of the highlights of the event was the presentation of the 2021 vintage characteristics through Brunello Forma, the Consorzio’s comprehensive technical analysis program. Now utilizing data from 60 weather stations (a 54% increase over 2020) and comparable to the 30-year historical average (1996–2025), the analysis provided detailed insights into what shaped this distinctive vintage. The 2021 growing season was defined by two main weather anomalies: a notably colder spring than historical norms, especially during March, April, and May, and a significantly warmer, drier September.

What made 2021 particularly unusual was the complete absence of rain between late August and early September, a pattern atypical for the Montalcino area. The vintage narrative began dramatically on April 8 with one of the most severe spring frosts of the past two decades. Following an early budbreak prompted by rapidly increasing temperatures from March 24 onward, the sudden plunge in minimum temperatures, exacerbated by a strong North Atlantic cold front, delayed the entire vegetative cycle and significantly reduced yields in some areas.

Summer brought a pronounced water deficit rather than thermal excess. Despite the persistent drought, maximum temperatures remained moderate, with only brief heatwaves observed. This restraint proved crucial to wine quality. The marked diurnal temperature variation, combined with the absence of prolonged heat stress, allowed the grapes to maintain freshness and aromatic complexity even under challenging conditions. Harvest commenced in the second half of September under clear skies and concluded rapidly in early October, with all fruit brought in before the first significant rainfall arrived after October 5. The resulting wines reflect a vintage shaped by discipline and precision: approachable yet structured, elegant yet concentrated, offering immediate appeal while promising graceful evolution over time.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese

The Brunello production area corresponds to the historical limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village just 40 km south of Siena, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is shaped like a square around the town, and it’s fascinating to observe the microclimate differences in such a compact territory.

This is a dry land encompassing a multitude of microclimates and soils. Generally speaking, grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located at higher elevations (but never over 600 meters) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes grow in an entirely different environment. The soils are richer, such as clay; the sunlight is more intense; sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea; and the resulting wines are more powerful. Furthermore, the presence of Mount Amiata (1,740 m) to the south has an important influence by shielding the grapes from strong atmospheric phenomena and providing breezes that help keep the climate dry and the vines healthy.

Tasting impressions of the 2021 vintage

After tasting most of the Brunello di Montalcino 2021 samples, the overall impression is of a vintage that shows approachable drinkability supported by good structure and finesse. The wines reflect the character of a season defined by moderate temperatures, marked diurnal variation, and water stress without extreme heat. The result is a Brunello that balances freshness with concentration, offering elegance and refinement that will continue to evolve beautifully over time.

The Sangiovese Grosso: the fingerprint of Brunello

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before reaching its quality peak, but once achieved, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. It is a very sensitive native grape and one of the highest-quality varieties, requiring careful practice and impeccable attention throughout its production process, harvest, and vinification.

It is a variety that shows fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice, and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of Sangiovese are the main factors behind its longevity. It performs differently in each site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir, combined with the play of time, has always produced elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to surprise. It is an example of impressive year-by-year quality persistence, and every vintage reveals a different profile of Sangiovese’s beauty, showcasing a new nuance of its character each time.

Montalcino: a year-round wine destination

Montalcino was historically an important stop on the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome, and therefore it welcomed and hosted influential figures, including nobles, politicians, and popes. The great wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors traveling to the Eternal City, which is why the hamlet has displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.

Montalcino today is internationally recognized as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting. It is connected to the history of its people and helps visitors understand why wine is so deeply integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who, from generation to generation, continue to pass on their passion and know-how.

While Benvenuto Brunello represents a highlight in Montalcino’s calendar, the region offers exceptional wine experiences throughout the year. Many of the 122 participating wineries welcome visitors year-round, though reservations are essential. Experiences range from basic tastings to elaborate tours, including vertical tastings of multiple vintages, vineyard walks with detailed explanations of different terroirs, barrel tastings in historic cellars, and food-and-wine pairing experiences. Some estates offer helicopter tours of the denomination and harvest experiences during September and October.

The territory hosts several notable events beyond Benvenuto Brunello. The Brunello Crossing in February features competitive and recreational hiking trails through the vineyards, offering routes ranging from 10 to 44 kilometers. The Jazz & Wine Festival in July combines world-class jazz performances with wine tastings in historic settings. L’Eroica in October, the famous vintage bicycle race traversing the scenic white roads of Tuscany, includes a special route through the Brunello vineyards. Honey Week in September celebrates local honey production with tastings and pairings with Moscadello di Montalcino.

The surrounding UNESCO World Heritage landscape of Val d’Orcia offers activities for every interest, from hiking and biking trails to the iconic cypress-lined roads featured in countless photographs and films. Historic abbeys, including Sant’Antimo, where Gregorian chants still echo through the stone halls—natural hot springs in nearby Bagno Vignoni and San Filippo, and the artistic treasures of Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia provide rich cultural experiences.

The town welcomes many visitors, and the care devoted to hospitality has become just as important as the attention given to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&Bs, luxurious accommodations within wine estates, and impeccable hotels offer diverse lodging options to suit different preferences and budgets.

Filippo Magnani

The Michelin Guide Expands Its Expertise in Recommendations and Introduces a New Distinction in the World of Wine

For 125 years, the MICHELIN Guide has celebrated places and talents that embody excellence in gastronomy and hospitality, with the MICHELIN Stars introduced in 1926 and the MICHELIN Keys launched in 2024. This expertise now naturally extends to wine, a key reference in the gastronomic experience. The MICHELIN Guide has long highlighted exceptional wine lists and sommeliers, notably through the ‘wine’ pictogram created in 2004 to distinguish outstanding food and wine pairings. In 2019, the MICHELIN Sommelier Award was introduced to honour professionals whose expertise enhances the guest experience through exemplary mastery of wine selection and service.

The MICHELIN Grape, MICHELIN Guide’s new distinction, will now spotlight wine estates across different regions of the world. It will assess their overall excellence based on five universal criteria applied consistently.

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director for the MICHELIN Guide, explains:

” After having oriented wine-lovers towards the finest tables in more than 70 destinations and to the world’s most elegant hotels, the MICHELIN Guide is delighted to open a new chapter with the world of wine. This new reference is designed for both the curious amateur and the most ardent expert – it rewards the men and women who are building the most demanding vineyards around the world.” 

The MICHELIN Grapes: a new reference for discovering and showcasing wine-growing talent

In the world of wine, the MICHELIN Guide rewards not only the vineyards but also the men and women who personify them. With this new distinction, the Guide will be using a strict and independent methodology – it will also provide wine-lovers with a trusted benchmark: Grapes 1, 2 or 3 and, additionally, a selection of recommended vineyards.

  Three Grapes

Exceptional producers. Whatever the vintage, wine lovers can turn to the estate’s creations with complete confidence.

  Two Grapes

Excellent producers who stand out as exceptional within their peer group and region for both quality and consistency.

One Grape

Very good producers who craft wines of character and style, especially in the best vintages.

Selected 

Dependable producers who have been chosen for regular review, producing well-made wines that deliver a quality experience.

Here is the methodology based on 5 criteria: 

For its new distinction, true to its fundamental values of excellence and independence, the MICHELIN Guide applies five criteria uniformly and wherever it may be.

  1. The quality of agronomy
    The assessment evaluates the vitality of the soil, the balance of the vine stocks, as well as the care provided for the vines. All essential factors that directly influence wine quality.
  2. Technical mastery
    The evaluation focuses on the technical skills in the wine-making process. Our inspectors are seeking precise and rigorous wine-making processes producing well-developed wines which reflect the terroir and the vine types, without any distracting flaws.
  3. Identity
    The Guide will highlight winemakers who craft wines that express the personality, the sense of place, and the culture behind them.
  4. Balance
    Evaluation of the harmony between acidity, tannins, oak, alcohol, and sweetness.
  5. Consistency 
    Wines will be evaluated across multiple vintages to ensure unwavering consistency in quality, even in the most challenging years. The Guide celebrates wines that reveal greater depth and excellence as time goes by.

    Expertise at the heart of the assessments 

Future selections will rely on the expertise of dedicated wine inspectors, all professionals employed by the Michelin Group. This team, which makes its recommendations collectively and with complete independence, will bring together seasoned wine specialists and newly recruited inspectors.

All team members have been selected not only based on their qualifications, but also on their ability to assess a vineyard with rigour and integrity. They are all seasoned professionals in the sector, i.e., former sommeliers, specialized critics or production experts, all bringing concrete and in-depth experience of the wine-producing world to the team.

Their assessments follow a rigorous methodology, including a panel review process and editorial supervision.

In 2026, the MICHELIN Grapes adventure will be writing its initial chapter in the heart of two mythical French wine-producing areas: Burgundy and the Bordeaux region

The MICHELIN Grapes project will start with two regions among the most emblematic in the worldwide wine-producing landscape: Burgundy and the region around Bordeaux. A compelling choice, celebrating the diversity, the historical intensity and the cultural richness of wine à la française.

Over the centuries, Bordeaux has established itself as a historic force in the world of wine. Its distinguished vineyards and their reputation go far beyond our borders.  The entire prestigious Bordeaux region is renowned throughout the world for its innovations and its traditions.

Burgundy, for its part, differentiates itself by its approach, deeply rooted in the local heritage. Its human-sized, family-owned vineyards reflect rigorous traditions and care imposed at each stage in the production process. From generation to generation, legacies have curated the local identity and forged the worldwide reputation of Burgundy.

Stay tuned in 2026 for the very first selections of the MICHELIN Grapes.