Category: Wine reviews

On February 1 and 2, the Valpolicella Wine Consortium celebrated the 20th anniversary of Amarone Opera Prima with world-renowned tenor Vittorio Grigolo, a former Sistine Chapel soloist and Arena Opera Festival star since 2013.

The two-day event, hosted in the 17th-century Gran Guardia building on Piazza Brà, featured 70 producers. Consortium President Christian Marchesini focused his keynote on Valpolicella’s future amid shifting global markets and consumer preferences. Master of Wine Andrea Lonardi, the consortium’s vice-president, noted that while past Amarone production catered to demand for smooth, approachable reds in high volumes, today’s market seeks wines with stronger territorial identity and clear messaging. He emphasized the need for synergy between method, territory, producers, and communication, requiring cultural, legislative, and production changes to shift from volume to value.

Vintage 2020

In general, Amarone 2020 turned out to be soft and fruity with good structural balance, a true reflection of the vintage. The year began with normal bud burst timing and a warm, dry spring. Despite weather fluctuations—including June rains, July heat, and late-summer rainfall—skilled vineyard management ensured healthy fruit development. The mid-September harvest yielded grapes that produced an exceptional Amarone, characterized by perfect ripeness, balanced acidity, and profound aromatics that masterfully express both varietal and traditional appassimento characteristics. This exceptional wine promises remarkable aging potential, driven by its precise acidity and true-to-type expression. Its sophisticated bouquet weaves together authentic varietal notes with distinctive aromas from the appassimento process and barrel aging. In the glass, it commands attention with its profound color depth, impeccable structural balance, and harmonious alcohol integration.

Territory, Tourism, and Market Changes Shape New Strategy as Valpolicella Celebrates 100 Years

“The three wines of Valpolicella uniquely reflect the varied tastes across generations among Italian denominations. Amarone and Recioto appeal to mature consumers, Ripasso to millennials, and Valpolicella—a contemporary wine which Milo Manara fittingly depicted with a woman—to the younger generation,” said Christian Marchesini, President of the Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium, at Amarone Opera Prima. The event celebrated the centenary of Veneto’s first wine consortium, which now represents over 2,400 companies, 360 bottlers, and approximately 8,600 hectares of vineyards.

The Valpolicella Wine Protection Consortium anchors Italy’s wine heritage, bringing together over 2,400 businesses throughout 19 municipalities in Verona province. This dynamic collective encompasses growers, winemakers, and bottlers who tend to 8,600 hectares of prestigious vineyards. With annual revenues exceeding 600 million euros—predominantly driven by Amarone’s success—the Consortium safeguards and champions the denomination’s interests both within Italy and abroad. Representing over 70% of the region’s production, it serves as the authoritative voice for one of Italy’s most distinguished wine regions.

Regional Characteristics and Denominations

Valpolicella’s distinctiveness stems from its location between the Dolomites and Lake Garda. The Monti Lessini plateau shields vineyards from Alpine cold, while Lake Garda provides mild winters and ventilation, enabling longer growing seasons that produce concentrated wines with high acidity. The region’s traditional appassimento method—grape drying—creates its flagship Amarone wine.

The region produces four wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. Each can originate from three territories: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella DOC Classico, and Valpolicella DOC Valpantena.

Experiencing Valpolicella

The region offers diverse attractions beyond wine. Historic villages like San Giorgio di Valpolicella showcase 12th-century Romanesque architecture, while Fumane features the preserved Maso degli Orzi rural complex. San Pietro in Cariano’s Villa Serego Alighieri serves as both winery and museum.

Verona, a UNESCO World Heritage site, provides an ideal base for exploring. The city features the Roman Arena, Juliet’s House, and Piazza delle Erbe. Nearby Lake Garda offers water sports and scenic villages.

Local cuisine includes specialties like bigoli with duck ragù and paparotte (cabbage and bean soup), perfectly complementing regional wines.

Legacy in Motion: Protecting Valpolicella’s Appassimento Tradition

The Valpolicella community seeks UNESCO Intangible Heritage status for its appassimento tradition—not for commercial gain, as Amarone already generates over 600 million euros in revenue, but to preserve the practice for future generations. The application process has unified the community while respecting individual approaches to tradition and innovation. Visitors can experience this heritage through various accommodations, from intimate farmhouses to luxury wine resorts in converted Renaissance villas, all within 30 minutes of Verona.

My Choices of Valpolicella’s Producers

Below are a few notable producers that caught my eye and palate during this year’s Amarone Opera Prima event. They range from historic estates to new state-of-the-art wineries, and small, passionate producers focused on terroir and sustainability.

CONTRADA PALUI – www.contradapalui.com Contrada Palui is a relatively new producer created by the innovative and passionate Hannes Pichler. After studying renewable energies in London and Milan, Hannes discovered a naturally organic green meadow in the Valpolicella region, just northeast of Verona, which had never seen pesticides. He planted a vineyard there. The unique location benefits from 500 meters elevation and 180 degrees of sun exposure. The soil composition includes clay, limestone, flint, and black basalt, allowing Hannes to produce very terroir-driven wines. He converted an old hay barn to store his barrels and amphorae.

LA COLLINA DEI CILIEGI – www.lacollinadeiciliegi.it Nestled in the hills of the Valpantena territory, the charming Collina dei Ciliegi is the dream of winemaker Massimo Gianolli. He began his journey in 2005 with a small production of grapes that became the first Amarone produced in the small village of Erbin. Now, La Collina dei Ciliegi produces three collections exported to over 20 countries worldwide. They have some of the highest vineyards in Valpolicella (750m) with chalky soils that produce wines with excellent acidity and minerality. Their modern approach includes new blends that combine traditional and international varieties. A visit to the winery offers a memorable journey through the land, culture, and flavors of Valpantena. Their beautifully restored farmhouse, Ca’ Del Moro, welcomes visitors for tastings, vineyard walks, fine dining, and stays in six finely refurbished rooms, each named after symbolic wines of the region (Amarone, Valpolicella, Recioto, Ripasso, Garganega, and Corvina).

LE GUAITE DI NOEMI – www.leguaite.it Noemi Pizzighella, the driving force behind Le Guaite, is a young and highly respected winemaker in Veneto. Growing up in the vineyards of Mezzane di Sotto, north of Verona, Noemi was immersed in the rich viticultural traditions of her family. Her father, Stefano Pizzighella, started a small olive oil production in 1987, making the most of the family’s olive groves. Inspired by her father’s dedication, Noemi developed a passion for winemaking as a child.

Le Guaite’s portfolio includes the celebrated Amarone della Valpolicella, known for its rich, robust profile with notes of dark fruit, spice, and a velvety finish. The Valpolicella Superiore is another standout, offering a harmonious balance of red berries, herbs, and subtle oak. Noemi’s meticulous attention to detail ensures that each bottle embodies the essence of the region. Her wines include Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Tano IGT Rosso Veronese. These wines are celebrated for their fresh and fruity nuances, distancing themselves from the opulence of certain other Valpolicella wines.

MASSIMAGO – www.massimago.com Hidden in the valley of Mezzane in Valpolicella is the Massimago winery which dates back to 1883. The name comes from Latin meaning “maximum wellness” and that is certainly what they have created here. Current owner and winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet renovated the entire estate in 2003, expanding their cellars and creating a Wine Relais with seven elegant country-style suites, a pool, a private spa, and a restaurant serving dishes created from ingredients grown on the property. Visitors can enjoy a variety of tasting experiences from a vineyard walk to a picnic or e-bike tour.

TENUTA SANTA MARIA di Gaetano Bertani – www.tenutasantamaria.wine Tenuta Santa Maria, a historic estate dating to the 16th century in Arbizzano di Negrar, stands as one of Valpolicella’s most significant cultural and viticultural landmarks. Under the stewardship of brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani, who inherited the estate from their father, legendary winemaker Gaetano Bertani, the winery continues a centuries-old tradition of excellence.

The estate’s neoclassical complex, featuring a frescoed villa and monumental cellar, is recognized as a national monument. Tenuta Santa Maria combines historical significance with modern innovation. The Bertani brothers focus on indigenous varieties and sustainable practices, producing wines from both their Valpolicella estate and ventures in Soave’s Colognola ai Colli, as well as a high-altitude project in Valpantena. Their portfolio reflects both tradition and innovation, showcasing the diversity of Veneto’s terroir through wines that blend historical techniques with modern precision.

Filippo Magnani