In the far southwest of Sardinia, the second-largest island in the Mediterranean, travellers can now embark on the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara (CMSB), a 500-kilometre trail divided into 30 stages. Just 70 kilometres from Cagliari, the regional capital with its international airport, the route links the main towns of the Sulcis region, including Iglesias, Carbonia, Sant’Antioco, and Sant’Anna Arresi.
Walkers, often referred to as “pilgrims,” retrace the paths once taken by miners, shepherds, fishermen, and farmers. Alongside ancient mines and vineyards, the trail also reveals some of Sardinia’s most striking beaches, where long sandy stretches meet crystal-clear waters. Blending history, spirituality, and nature, the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara offers insight into Sulcis, one of the island’s most authentic and multifaceted territories.
An Early Test Walk
In September, with a small group of colleagues, we had the privilege of experiencing this trail almost as a preview. What struck us most was the remarkable balance of diversity and coherence. Tourism projects often promise variety but seldom deliver it with such authenticity. Along the Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara, everything felt naturally connected, from the changing landscapes and historic villages to the local food, ancient mines, and distinctive wines. Each element contributed to a unified, layered sense of place that was both genuine and moving.
What stood out most was the passion of the people behind the project. From museum guides to vineyard workers, from cooperative leaders to volunteers, everyone we met shared a profound connection to their land. Their knowledge, warmth, and pride gave depth to each encounter, transforming the journey into not just an exploration but a human and emotional experience.
From Vineyards to the Sea
The journey began among vineyards overlooking the coast, with an introduction to Carignano del Sulcis and its role in shaping the region’s identity. Tastings and open-air meals revealed the deep bond between wine and territory. Later, quiet paths across Sant’Antioco unfolded into gentle slopes and seascapes, before evenings spent by the harbour with traditional food and local wines.
The next day brought us inland, across rolling hills and historic villages, along trails framed by vineyards and Mediterranean scrub. Lunch featured the symbolic “Pilgrim’s Menu,” tying tradition to hospitality. By evening, the focus shifted to the sea once again at the historic tonnara (tuna fishery) of Portoscuso, founded in the late 1500s. Tuna has long shaped local culture, and here it was paired with Carignano wines—from fresh rosé to complex reds—showcasing the grape’s depth and versatility.
Into the Mines
The journey culminated at the Great Mine of Serbariu, once a hub of coal extraction. Even today, with clean air, normal light, and sound effects muted, stepping inside was a powerful experience. It was easy to imagine the miners’ reality: dust, darkness, deafening noise, and at times tunnels scarcely half a meter high. This moment underscored that Sulcis’s beauty is inseparable from its history of hardship.
The Wine Connection
Carignano, the flagship grape of Sulcis, is demanding in the vineyard. Naturally vigorous and highly productive, it requires careful management to reduce yields. Its slight bitterness, a potential flaw elsewhere, here becomes a signature—integrated, elegant, and defining.
Unique conditions make it possible: sandy soils that allow ungrafted vines, old bush-trained vineyards yielding naturally low harvests, a Mediterranean climate tempered by steady mistral winds, and a late ripening cycle that traditionally stretches into mid-October. These factors create dense, characterful wines that remain contemporary in style.
Carignano del Sulcis, recognized as a DOC since 1977, comes in a range of styles: dry reds, riservas, and passito versions. Rosé is also noteworthy—often deeply colored thanks to the grape’s natural intensity, with marked personality and a savoury edge that makes it highly gastronomic, pairing beautifully with both land and sea dishes.
The Food Connection
Food in Sulcis is equally central to its identity. Despite being an island, meat holds a place of honour: maialetto (suckling pig), in its many variations, is a festive staple. Cheese is just as significant, particularly Sardinia’s distinctive pecorino, known for its intensity, and fresh ricotta, used in both savoury and sweet dishes.
Handmade pasta, often filled, anchors family cooking, while along the coast, tuna and fish define local tradition. Mussels, too, are a point of pride, frequently featured as a specialty of Sulcis. The cuisine also preserves its humbler roots in dishes like fried bread, a clever way to avoid waste. This blend of land and sea, of richness and simplicity, gives Sulcis a gastronomic identity as layered as its landscape—always authentic, always true to tradition.
A Complete Journey
The Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara is far more than a hike. It’s wine tastings by the sea, Carignano vineyards shaped by the mistral, ungrafted bush vines, archaeological sites, tuna fisheries, nuraghi, medieval churches, and, above all, the proud voices of the people who live here. It’s a journey through hardship and beauty, history and revival—an experience that lingers long after the last step and the final sip.
Filippo Magnani
