The Twelve Pievi: How Tuscany’s Historic Wine Region Is Redefining Excellence After Three Decades

In the heart of Tuscany, where time moves at its own leisurely pace, the historic town of Montepulciano celebrates a remarkable milestone in 2025. While thirty-one years may seem minor against the backdrop of a town preserved since the 16th century, the evolution of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano during this period tells a story of extraordinary growth and transformation. Since establishing the Anteprima event in 1994 to showcase market-ready vintages, the Consortium has seen production volumes and membership nearly double. The 31st edition of the Preview returns to honor its rich heritage while embracing the future, continuing the legacy of an appellation with winemaking traditions dating back to Etruscan times.

The Renaissance of Traditional Terroir
The custodians of Montepulciano’s viticultural heritage have achieved a masterful balance between innovation and tradition, preserving the essence of their craft while adapting to modern challenges. Their meticulous stewardship extends beyond the vineyards to the entire ecosystem—landscapes, architecture, and cultural practices are carefully maintained as living tributes to ancestral accomplishments.

The 2025 market debut of the prestigious Pieve classification marks the culmination of years of dedicated research and development. Following the Consortium’s approval in 2023 and the Italian National Wine Committee’s final endorsement on October 10, 2024, these exceptional wines have reached shelves with the publication of regulations in the February 5, 2025 Official Journal. The 2021 vintage—the first to carry the distinguished Pieve designation—exemplifies the region’s commitment to geographical authenticity and production excellence.

These twelve Additional Geographic Units (UGAs) honor ancient parish divisions that date back to the Roman and Lombard eras, creating a direct connection between contemporary winemaking and historical territorial organization. Only wines produced with at least 85% Sangiovese grapes grown and bottled by the same estate within a specific Pieve boundary may bear this prestigious label. Quality control remains paramount, with the Consortium establishing an internal commission of technical experts to ensure compliance with rigorous specifications before certification.

Industry professionals surveyed by Nomisma project retail prices for these premium offerings to range between 40-70 euros, with exceptional bottles commanding 70-100+ euros. The market acknowledges the unique value proposition, with respondents emphasizing Montepulciano’s “strong identity and tradition,” “superior quality,” and the “prestige of the brand” as key differentiators. Wine enthusiasts now can explore these distinctive terroirs through comparison tastings, enhanced by the Consortium’s innovative ’12 Pievi’ web series documenting the unique characteristics of each historical parish zone.

Montepulciano’s forward-looking approach extends beyond geographical classification to embrace sustainability initiatives. As the first Italian denomination to receive Equalitas certification in May 2022, the region upholds strict environmental standards by measuring carbon and water footprints while promoting socio-economic equity. A sophisticated network of 50 meteorological stations provides critical data for ongoing climate adaptation strategies.

Where History and Viticulture Converge
Nestled on limestone hills that divide the Val di Chiana from Val d’Orcia, Montepulciano stands as a living testament to centuries of artistic, architectural, and agricultural achievement. Visitors wandering its cobblestone streets encounter Etruscan relics, Renaissance palazzos, ornate religious sanctuaries, and thriving artisanal traditions. The magnificent Piazza Grande, with its 17th-century Duomo, serves as the gravitational center, while the San Biagio sanctuary forms a stunning gateway to the iconic cypress-lined valleys that define the quintessential Tuscan landscape.

The Consortium has enhanced the visitor experience through the introduction of the “Pilgrimage to Montepulciano’s Pievi,” an immersive journey combining walking tours of historic parish territories with evening tastings of their distinctive wines. This multisensory experience invites travelers to engage deeply with the region’s terroir—physically traversing the landscape while savoring its enological expressions.

The economic significance of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is profound, with the industry valued at approximately one billion euros in combined assets, revenue, and production capacity. Average annual production value reaches 65 million euros, forming the cornerstone of a local economy in which 70% of activity is directly related to viticulture. Of the 16,500 hectares of municipal territory, vineyards occupy 2,000 hectares—including 1,200 hectares dedicated to Vino Nobile DOCG and 390 hectares to Rosso di Montepulciano DOC. The industry supports roughly 1,000 permanent jobs alongside seasonal positions spread across 90 bottling operations and 250 grape producers.

The 2024 market performance highlights continued growth, with 6.7 million bottles of Vino Nobile and 2.3 million bottles of Rosso reaching consumers. Export markets account for 65.5% of production, with Germany (37%) and the United States (28%) leading international demand. Particularly noteworthy is the increasing preference for organic certification, representing 44.7% of domestic sales and exceeding 50% of international transactions.

For wine lovers seeking authentic experiences, Montepulciano offers an unrivaled destination where history, culture, and exceptional winemaking converge. Whether exploring medieval alleys, participating in guided tastings, hiking through vine-covered hills, or embarking on parish pilgrimages, visitors are immersed in traditions that honor the past and embrace the future. The Pieve classification represents more than a marketing distinction; it is a profound reconnection with historical identity—a perfect expression of a region that continues to evolve while remaining true to its timeless character.

A Timeless Sanctuary for Wine Lovers
Situated gracefully on gently undulating limestone slopes that form a natural boundary between Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia, Montepulciano is a living testament to Tuscany’s rich oenological heritage. This captivating medieval settlement occupies a privileged position among Italy’s most celebrated wine regions, embodying the essence of cultural identity. From ancient Etruscan cultivation methods to modern winemaking innovations, Montepulciano’s terroir has seen the evolution of viticulture over millennia, solidifying its status among Tuscany’s revered wine sanctuaries.

More than just a production zone, Montepulciano serves as an immersive open-air museum chronicling the region’s enduring connection to viticulture. The town attracts discerning enophiles and cultural travelers from around the globe, each seeking the harmonious blend of historical significance and vinous excellence that defines this remarkable destination.
The charming historic center reveals layers of architectural and artistic achievement, including prehistoric Etruscan artifacts, magnificent Renaissance palazzos, consecrated sanctuaries adorned by master painters, classical performance venues, and thriving workshops that preserve traditional craftsmanship. Every cobblestone and archway contribute to Montepulciano’s unique charm, inviting visitors to lose themselves in its timeless allure. Here, amidst this splendid tapestry of historical and aesthetic treasures, wine serves as the ultimate ambassador—a masterful interpreter of Tuscany’s magnificent landscape. Through each glass of this noble elixir, visitors embark on a sensory journey that bridges past and present, terroir and tradition, celebrating Montepulciano’s enduring legacy as a sanctuary for those who value the profound relationship between place, culture, and exceptional winemaking.

Filippo Magnani

Academic Study Forecasts Wine Industry Revival by 2026

A recent study by the University of Bordeaux and the University of Verona suggests the wine industry could see a recovery starting in 2026. The research used Italian wine producer Masi as a case study. A few weeks ago, an academic research paper “Resilience and preparation for the next cycle of global wine consumption. Masi: an original case study” was presented in Milan by Jean-Marie Cardebat, Professor of Economics at the University of Bordeaux, Director of the ECOr Research Department, Affiliate Professor at INSEEC Grande École and Director of the Wines & Spirits Chair in Paris, together with Davide Gaeta, Professor and lecturer in wine business economics and agri-food markets and competitiveness – Department of Management – University of Verona.

Professor Cardebat explained that economic cycles have always influenced global wine consumption. While current economic and geopolitical challenges have caused a decline in the market, he believes that controlling inflation could lead to a turning point in 2026. He also predicted that 2027 might mark the start of a recovery phase with sustained growth for the wine sector. However, he emphasized that this recovery would not replicate past market conditions. Changes in consumer behavior and new trends will shape the next phase of the industry.

Professor Cardebat also highlighted the importance of premiumization, with consumers increasingly seeking quality and high-value wines. He stressed the need for wineries to invest in brand development and enhance consumer experiences, such as wine tourism, which has grown significantly in recent years. He also noted that emerging markets might drive a renewed interest in red wine, which has declined in Europe.

Professor Gaeta outlined key factors for resilient wine companies to thrive in international markets. These include having a strong organizational structure, transparent information management, and strategies to diversify product offerings. He emphasized the importance of flexibility in responding to changing demand, both in grape supply and product range. Gaeta also pointed out that segmenting distribution and maintaining a diverse presence in global markets can help mitigate risks and create growth opportunities.

Additionally, Professor Gaeta noted that competitiveness in the wine industry can be strengthened through attention to corporate identity, strategic marketing, and innovation focused on sustainability. Both professors agreed that adapting to new consumer preferences and market conditions will be essential for the wine industry to navigate future challenges and opportunities.

Liz Palmer’s Exclusive Interview with Trailblazer of Argentine Wine Dr. Laura Catena + Wine Tasting Notes

Dr. Laura Catena is widely regarded as a leading figure in the Argentine wine industry, often described as “the face of Argentine wine.” Her contributions to the field are characterized by a profound commitment to advancing knowledge in viticulture, particularly in the domains of high-altitude cultivation, soil microbiome research, and wine ageability.

As a fourth-generation winemaker, Dr. Catena’s academic accolades are as inspiring as her wine expertise. She graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and later achieved her medical degree from Stanford University. Joining her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata—an icon in the wine world—at their family winery in 1995, Laura’s involvement sparked a new chapter of innovation. In 1999, she founded Luca Wines, named after her eldest son, with the goal of exploring the potential of old-vine Malbec in Argentina’s Uco Valley.

Dr. Catena’s scientific approach to winemaking materialized with the establishment of the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995, where her team meticulously examined the Adrianna Vineyard. This high-altitude vineyard, identified by her father as a game-changer for wine quality, is often regarded as one of the most scientifically studied vineyards globally.

In addition to her winemaking ventures, Dr. Catena is the author of Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina. Remarkably, she balanced her work as a pediatric emergency doctor until 2019, when she became managing director of Catena Zapata. Today, her compassion extends beyond wine, as she volunteers her medical expertise at a clinic in San Francisco serving individuals experiencing homelessness.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Laura Catena: Jancis Robinson was the first woman in the wine industry to inspire me. Jancis is highly principled and understands the power that she has as an influential journalist to actually make the world a better place.  She has single handedly taken on the cause of lightweight bottles and has been relentless in pushing producers to lower their wine bottle weights.  It’s because of Jancis that Catena joined the SWR – Sustainable Wine Roundtable – and that today we have reduced our overall bottle weight by 41% and that our average bottle weight is 420 grams.

I am influenced daily by the women in my Argentina production and exports teams.  They are super hard working and always looking for creative solutions to problems.  I’ve worked with many of the women at Catena for over two decades and watched them raise families and have successful careers.  I feel that it’s an honor to work with them.

I was once told that it’s important to have older and younger mentors, and I find this to be excellent advice.  I like to surround myself with women of all ages, and to non-stop learn from them.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Laura Catena: I recently attended a wine and health symposium in Rome as a speaker.  I was invited because I am a medical doctor (I practiced Emergency Medicine in San Francisco for 25 years) and I created a web site – www.indefenseofwine.com – to share science-based information about the potential benefits and harms of alcohol in moderation.  The speakers at the conference were leading medical doctors in the field of wine and health, longevity and Mediterranean Diet which includes wine.  It was such a great honor to attend as a speaker.  I don’t think that my Italian great grandfather who emigrated from Italy to Argentina in 1898 and started our Catena family winery in Argentina in 1902 could have imagined me going back to Italy as a speaker.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Laura Catena: We are doing a lot of work on water preservation, identifying ways to use less water by watering less in the early spring.  This requires many research trials and measurements, but it is exciting to find ways to reduce water usage by 10-30 % which is very significant because there is less ice in the Andean Glaciers due to climate change.  Another innovation is a protocol to study soil before planting.  We are planting in new regions to the north of Mendoza, in the provinces of La Rioja Argentina, Salta and Catamarca.  Every time we plant, we want to make sure to be using the right plant material in each soil type, following the best sun exposure to get the morning sun on the vines and grapes.  We are also working on preserving massale, genetically diverse cuttings of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda – this is very exciting because Argentina is the equivalent of a world heritage site for plant diversity because of our history of ungrafted planting by massale selection.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Laura Catena: In 2010 we created Argentina’s first Sustainability Code and worked with Bodegas de Argentina to make it available to all Argentine producers.  Today, we work with other producers to fulfill the code’s objectives, sharing information about best practices in the vineyards, water management and support of the local communities.  Our sustainability code is constantly being improved through the communal efforts of its member wineries.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Laura Catena: It is not easy for most people who love wine to drink in moderation.  This is a situation that we face as a species due to the abundance of endorphin-elevating beverages and food that surround us.  It is so easy to eat and drink too much.  I do believe that our industry needs to provide solutions for wine drinkers to moderate, and no/low beverages are a good option.  The beer industry has produced some excellent no alcohol alternatives.  The Catena Institute has worked on no/low wines for the last four years and we are currently launching three kinds of beverages under the brand Domaine EdeM (Domaine Elena de Mendoza) which includes a rose petal-infused dealcoholized sparkling rosé called ROSAE, two botanical infused must and verjus no alcohol sparkling beverages and two 7% alcohol sparkling Chardonnays: Uco Stones and Uco Mineral.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Laura Catena: The Catena Institute which I founded in 1995 is in constant collaboration with institutions all over the world (UC Davis, University of Burgundy, University of Bordeaux) – with over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals, we are the most published winery research institute in the world.  The Catena Institute just won the V d’Or Sustainability Award at Vinexposium in Wine Paris.  By collaborating with researchers all over the world, we are able to learn about the latest innovations in wine.  We also attend conferences and symposiums, such as the Conference on Lifestyle, Mediterranean Diet and Wine that I just attended in Rome or the Sustainability in Drinks – SID conference in London.  In 2024 we hosted the 15th International Terroir Congress in Mendoza, Argentina.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

  • First, take WSET or another wine class.  Wine is complex from a taste and historical/geographic standpoint and it’s important to understand the complexities in wine.  Try to taste a lot of different wines, it takes about three to four years to develop a wine palate.
  • If you are more interested in the technical side find a program that provides a lot of hands-on experience.
  • Take a job doing anything wine related: work at a wine store, wine bar, winery tasting room.
  • Find a few substacks or people to follow on social media – Instagram is what most wine people use
  • Visit as many wineries as possible

“Dr. Laura Catena, A heartfelt “Thank You” for sharing your invaluable insights, exceptional expertise, and unwavering dedication. You are a shining example of dedication, vision, and resilience—a pioneer who continues to elevate Argentine wine while making meaningful contributions to her community” Liz Palmer

Tasting Notes

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021 and
Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021

Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard 2021
This remarkable high-altitude Malbec showcases a stunning deep violet hue, offering a visual prelude to its layered character. The aroma unveils an inviting blend of ripe blackberries, plums, and blueberries, delicately enhanced by herbaceous undertones and a touch of warm spice. On the palate, it displays an intricate interplay of flavours, with juicy blueberries and rich cassis complemented by whispers of vanilla and nuanced spice. The finish lingers gracefully, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and refinement.

95 Points
Liz Palmer

Nicolás Catena Zapata 2021
With its inaugural 1997 vintage, Nicolás Catena Zapata became the first luxury cuvée from Argentina to be exported around the world. The wine recreates the “Original Bordeaux Blend” of the 18th and 19th Centuries, when Malbec dominated over Merlot and was in equal standing to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Médoc.

“The label’s striking design is a manifesto, symbolising the transformative journey of Argentinian wine, and for the first time we are using a wax seal to honour the pre-phylloxera origins of our vines”

Varietal: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc

This wine displays an intense deep purple hue and immediately draws you in with its expressive character. The aromas are dominated by dark fruits—succulent blackberries, luscious cherries, and ripe plums, accented by subtle touches of vanilla, chocolate, with a hint of minerality. On the palate, it boasts incredible depth, revealing herbal and spicy notes characteristic of Bordeaux varieties, including hints of black pepper and exotic spices. The wine’s concentration is remarkable, supported by a bold tannic structure. The finish is long and persistent, offering a clear indication of the wine’s outstanding potential for long-term aging. An Argentine masterpiece!

97 Points
Liz Palmer

Legendary Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Releases His Latest Book “Multidimensional Wine”

Gérard Bertrand has just released his latest book Multidimensional Wine. In his book, Gérard Bertrand presents more than just an exploration of wine; he offers an intimate journey into a life deeply entwined with the vine. As the proud inheritor of a winemaking legacy, Bertrand has built a global reputation by blending his family heritage with an ambitious goal to elevate the wines of Languedoc to the world stage. Bertrand invites you to discover how he has made a global impact while staying rooted in the traditions of his homeland, Corbières, France.

Multidimensional Wine is far from a technical guide to winemaking it’s a personal odyssey, a fusion of expertise and sensory experience, with each page resonating like a note in a symphony Bertrand shares the secrets of his craft with remarkable honesty, reflecting on biodiversity, biodynamic viticulture, and the role of wine in contemporary society. His narrative captures the true essence of his work and his lifelong passion for wine.

” Blending is the Everest of every winemaker, the vertical opera that every year requires questioning, preparation, and the conquest of a new face of the same mountain. There is nothing more beautiful, more exhilarating in this profession. “  Gerard Bertrand

About Gérard Bertrand

Gérard Bertrand is a renowned winemaker committed to viticulture in harmony with nature. Over the past 35 years, he has transformed his family vineyard in the south of France into a global benchmark for excellence and biodynamics, elevating the wines of his region to rank among the world’s finest. Gérard Bertrand is also the author of two previous books: Wine, Moon and Stars and Nature at Heart.

For further details: https://shorturl.at/mwlXs

Exclusive Interview with Patricia and María Balbás of Bodegas Balbás – By Liz Palmer

In 2024, Juan José Balbás and Clara de la Fuente entrusted the stewardship of Bodegas Balbás, one of Spain’s most historic wineries, to their daughters, Patricia and María Balbás. This transition marked a significant moment in the winery’s history, as the sisters assumed responsibility as the seventh generation of the Balbás family to lead the enterprise. The origins of Bodegas Balbás trace back to 1777, when Abundio Balbás first began crafting wines from his vineyards. Over the centuries, the winery has maintained its status as a family-owned operation, passing down traditions and expertise through successive generations.

This generational shift coincides with a transformative period for the Ribera del Duero region, which has gained international recognition for its focus on quality and its unique expression of terroir. Within this region lies the “Golden Diamond,” an area renowned for its unparalleled potential to redefine Spanish viticulture. Patricia and María Balbás are resolute in their mission to position Bodegas Balbás as a leader during this pivotal era. Their stewardship encompasses the management of 140 hectares of vineyards, including parcels where some vines are over a century old. These older vines contribute to the complexity and depth of the winery’s offerings.

A defining principle of Bodegas Balbás under the sisters’ leadership is their dedication to authenticity. By cultivating exclusively estate-grown grapes and overseeing every stage of winemaking internally, the Balbás sisters ensure the preservation of the winery’s distinctive character. Their commitment to innovation, sustainability, and heritage underscores their ambition to honor the family legacy while adapting to the evolving landscape of modern winemaking.

Liz Palmer: Which influential women in the wine industry have inspired you throughout your journey?

Patricia & María Balbás: Our mother is the person who has inspired us the most in the industry. When she joined the wine sector, very few women were involved. Since then, fortunately, there has been significant progress in the integration of women. However, it is thanks to cases like hers that today, both of us have experienced such an easy inclusion.

Liz Palmer: Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement in your illustrious career?

Patricia & María Balbás: Neither of us has a long career in the wine industry, but in these years, we have faced great challenges, such as the Covid-19 pandemic. That pandemic forced us to develop new strategies and explore new business avenues that we still maintain and support today.

In just a few days, we had to face a complete change in the business structure, move forward in the face of a total shift in the market and society, and that posed a great challenge.

We faced very rapid changes, and one has to be very dynamic to adapt and reinvent oneself.

Liz Palmer: What recent technological innovations have you and your team integrated into your winemaking process?

Patricia & María Balbás: In 2023, we made a significant investment in the winery aimed at specializing our production processes. We introduced smaller stainless steel tanks, concrete tanks, and 2,500 liters fudres, as well as improved the production flow. This has allowed us to be more meticulous in our production, focus even more on quality, and stay at the forefront of the existing technology in the production processes.

Liz Palmer: How do you ensure sustainability and uphold environmental responsibility in your vineyard and winery operations?

Patricia & María Balbás: We are fortunate to produce only from our own vineyards. This allows us to control the entire production process, from the origin until each of our bottles leaves our winery. We do not carry out harmful processes for biodiversity in our vineyards and always ensure manual labor to contribute to the development of local communities. On the other hand, we have several processes for the recovery and maintenance of biodiversity in our vineyards, allowing for the proper development of the local fauna and flora.

Liz Palmer: What are your perspectives on the No and Low Alcohol Wine Revolution, and how has your wine estate adapted to this burgeoning movement?

Patricia & María Balbás: It is true that there is an emerging No Alcohol movement in society. This movement is gaining momentum, and there will come a time of stabilization. What is important is that efforts are focused on preventing the abusive and harmful consumption of alcohol, not penalizing any type of consumption.

As long as it is moderate, the decision to consume or not consume alcohol should be a personal choice and respected.

Liz Palmer: How do you and your team stay abreast of the latest trends and advancements in the wine industry?

Patricia & María Balbás: The best way for us to stay up to date is through direct interaction with each of our clients on a daily basis. This allows us to learn about the latest developments in each market and continue evolving alongside them, together.

On the other hand, attending international trade fairs allows us to see the latest trends each year and understand the evolution of each winery; they represent a meeting point for all the companies involved in the sector, from the producer to the final customer, and are an experience worth enjoying every year.

Liz Palmer: What advice would you offer to young women aspiring to enter the wine industry?

Patricia & María Balbás: We would tell them not to be afraid to venture into this great industry. It’s a very rewarding sector, where you learn new things every day, and the potential for growth is limitless. The integration of women is growing, and more and more of us are taking the lead. We are in one of the best moments, and we must take advantage of it.

Bodegas Balbás Website: https://balbas.es/en/